P  A  U  A ; 


§uuB   fliii   ^IkBuhrrs 


THE    BANKS    OF    THE    AMAZON 


JOHN    ESAIAS    WARREN. 


'  Regions  immense,  unsearchable,  unknown, 
Bwk  in  the  splendor  of  the  solar  zone." 

MONTGOMKKY. 


NEW   YORK: 
G.     p.    PUTNAM,    155    BROADWAY 

1851. 


Ent«rci]  according  to  Act  of  Congresp^  in  the  year  1651,  by 
G.  P.  PUTNAM, 
tli«  Clerk'a  OfBca  of  lli«  Dutriet  Court  for  the  Southern  Distridof  New  York. 


H,  Craighead,  Prinltr  awl  Sttri'Ayperj 
113  FulUm  Urttt,  New  York. 


PREFACE. 


Those  wlio  have  wandered  in  strange  and 
beautiful  lands,  where  the  wonderM  objects 
around  them  have  aroused  emotions  of  delight 
and  pleasm'e  of  which  they  were  before  uncon- 
scious, naturally  feel  a  desire  to  communicate 
their  impressions,  either  for  the  gratification  of 
jfriends,  or  the  entertainment  of  the  public. 
The  writer  of  this  unpretending  narrative 
frankly  acknowledges  that  he  has  been  influ- 
enced by  both  of  these  considerations.  So 
little  has  of  late  been  written  on  the  subject 
of  Brazil, — a  coimtry  which  in  regard  to  its 
natural  advantages  is  perhaps  the  most  luxu- 
riant in  the  world, — that  he  desires,  if  possible, 
to  direct  attention  to  the  extraordinary  magnifi- 
cence and  beauty  of  that  province  particularly 
which  lies  along  the  banks  of  the  Amazon, 
and  which  extends  from  the  shores  of  the 
Atlantic  to  the  base  of  the  towering  Andes! 
Throughout  this  immense  domain  the  reign  of 
summer  is  perpetual  and  midistm*bed.    Scarcely 

415503 


P  R  E  F  A  C  K 


a  miinnur  of  civilization  breaks  uiDon  the  prevail- 
ing solitude!  The  gigantic  forests  are  inha- 
bited by  tribes  of  savage  Indians,  birds  of  the 
most  brilliant  plnmage,  and  serpents  of  inmime- 
rable  varieties  and  enormous  size.  With  truth 
therefore,  may  it  be  said,  that 

"  Wildly  here  without  control, 
Nature  reigns  and  rules  the  whole." 

New   Vork,  May  10,  1851. 


P    A    E    A  . 


CHAPTER  I. 

Evening  on  the  Amazon — The  Harbor  of  Para — Promiscuous 
Bathing — A  Brazilian  Dinner — Beautiful  Garden — Manufac- 
ture of  India  Rubber  Shoes — First  Night  Ashore. 

The  shades  of  evening  were  gathering  fast  upon  the 
waters,  when  the  Httle  bark,  in  which  we  had  safely- 
crossed  the  wide  expanse  of  ocean,  now  quietly  anchored 
in  the  mighty  river  of  the  Amazons. 

Through  the  rich  twilight  we  were  able  to  discern 
the  white  sandy  shore,  skirting  a  dense  forest  of 
perennial  luxuriance  and  beauty.  Gentle  zephyrs, 
fraught  with  the  most  delightful  fragrance  from  the 
wilderness  of  flowers,  softly  saluted  our  senses  ;  while 
occasionally  the  soft  and  plaintive  voices  of  southern 
nightingales  came  with  mellowed  sweetness  to  our 
ears. 

The  queenly  moon,  unobscured  by  a  sjjigle  cloud, 
threw  an  indescribable  charm  o\er  the  enchanting  scene. 


V^ 


reflecting  her  brilliant  rcays  upon  the  placid  surface  of 
the  river,  and  shrouding  the  beautiful  foliage  of  the 
forest  in  a  drapery  of  gold.  Innumerable  stars  brightly 
glittered  in  the  azure  firmament,  and  the  constellation 
of  the  "Southern  Cross"  gleamed  above  us  hke  a 
diadem. 

All  around  seemed  to  be  wrapped  in  the  most 
profound  repose.  Not  a  sound  disturbed  the  silence  of 
the  interminable  solitude  save  the  hushed  and  mournful 
notes  of  evening  birds,  the  distant  howling  of  prowling 
jaguars,  or  the  rustling  of  the  wind  through  the  forest 
trees.  Nature  appeared  to  us,  for  the  first  time,  in  all 
her  pristine  loveliness,  and  seemed  indeed,  to  our 
excited  imagination,  to  present  but  a  dreamy  picture  of 
fairy  land. 

At  an  early  hour  in  the  morning  we  weighed 
anchor,  and  with  a  fresh  breeze  and  strong  tide  rapidly 
moved  up  the  noble  river,  gliding  by  the  most  beautiful 
scenery  that  fancy  can  conceive. 

The  nearly  impenetrable  forest  which  lined  the  shore 
was  of  a  deep  emerald  green,  and  consisted  of  exceedingly 
lofty  trees,  of  remarkably  curious  and  grotesque  figures, 
interlaced  together  by  numerous  running  vines,  the 
interstices  of  which  were  filled  up  with  magnificent 
shrubbery. 

We  observed,  towering  high  above  the  surrounding 
trees,  manv  singular  species  of  palms,  among  which  the 
far-famed    cocoa-nut   proudly  stood  pre-eminent.     This 


•^* 


beautiful  tree  gives  a  peculiar  witchery  to  a  tropical 
landscape,  which  those  only  who  have  seen  it  can 
possibly  realize.  The  trunk  grows  up  perfectly  perpen- 
dicular to  a  great  height,  before  it  throws  out  its  curious 
branches,  which  bend  over  as  gracefully  as  ostrich 
plumes,  and  quiver  in  the  slightest  breeze.  Consequently, 
the  general  appearance  of  the  tree  at  a  distance  is 
somewhat  similar  to  that  of  an  umbrella. 

As  we  gradually  proceeded,  we  now  and  then  caught 
glimpses  of  smiling  cottages,  with  their  snug  little 
verandas  and  red-tiled  roofs  peering  from  amid  the 
foliage  of  the  river's  banks,  and  giving,  as  it  were,  a 
character  of  sociality  and  animation  to  the  beauteous 
scene. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  spot  that  we  noticed 
was  an  estate  bearing  the  name  of  Pinherios,  which  had 
been  formerly  the  site  of  a  Carmelite  convent,  but 
which  has  lately  been  sold  to  the  government  for  a 
"  Hospital  dos  Lazaros."  Here  also  was  an  establish- 
ment for  the  manufacture  of  earthenware  tiles,  which 
are  extensively  used  throughout  the  Brazilian  empire  for 
roofing  houses. 

So  low  is  the  valuation  of  land  in  this  section  of 
Brazil,  that  this  immense  estate,  embracing  within  its 
limits  nearly  three  thousand  acres,  and  situated,  as  it  is, 
within  twelve  miles  of  the  city  of  Para,  was  sold  for  a 
sum  equivalent  to  about  four  thousand  dollars.  This 
may  be  taken  as   a  fair  standard  of  the  value  of  real 


PARA 


estate  in  the  vicinity  of  Para.  That  of  the  neighboring 
islands  is  comparatively  trifling  ;  while  there  are  millions 
of  fertile  acres  now  wholly  unappropriated,  which  oflfer 
the  richest  inducements  to  all  emigrants  who  may  be 
disposed  to  direct  their  fortunes  thither. 

It  was  near  mid-day  when  our  good  vessel  anchored 
in  the  commodious  harbor  of  Para.  The  atmosphere 
was  exceedingly  moist,  and  the  thermometer  standing 
at  about  eighty-five  in  the  shade.  A  number  of  English, 
American,  and  French  vessels  were  in  the  harbor, 
together  with  several  Brazilian  men-of-war,  and  a  variety 
of  small  Indian  craft,  of  singular  construction,  from 
the  little  "  montaria,"  simply  composed  of  the  trunk  of 
a  tree  hewn  out,  to  the  fantastically  built  sloops  which 
are  employed  in  trading  up  the  Amazon. 

The  harbor  itself  is  quite  safe,  and  eminently  pic- 
turesque and  beautiful.  The  river,  being  at  the  city 
almost  four  miles  in  width,  is  thickly  studded  with  little 
islands,  which  being  covered  with  the  most  luxuriant 
verdure,  add  not  a  little  to  the  varied  beauty  of  its 
scenery. 

The  city  of  Para  is  delightfully  situated  on  the 
southern  branch  of  the  Amazon,  called,  for  the  sake  of 
distinction,  "  The  Para  River."  It  is  the  principal  city 
of  the  province  of  the  same  name, — an  immense  terri- 
tory, which  has  very  appropriately  been  styled  "  The 
Paradise  of  Brazil.^''  The  general  aspect  of  the  place, 
with  its  low  and  venerable  looking  buildings  of  solid 


stone,  its  massive  churches  and  moss-grown  ruins,  its 
red-tiled  roofs  and  dingy-white  walls,  the  beautiful  trees 
of  its  gardens,  and  groups  of  tall  banana  plants  peeping 
up  here  and  there  among  the  houses,  constituted  certainly 
a  scene  of  novelty,  if  not  of  elegance  and  beauty. 

The  first  spectacle  which  arrested  our  attention  on  land- 
ing was  that  of  a  number  of  persons  of  both  sexes  and  all 
ages,  bathing  indiscriminately  together  in  the  waters  of 
the  river,  in  a  state  of  entire  nudity.     We  observed 
among  them  several  finely  formed  Indian  girls  of  exceed- 
ing beauty,  dashing  about  in  the  water  like  a  troop  of 
happy  mermaids.     The  heat  of  the  sun  was  so  intense, 
that  we  ourselves  were  almost  tempted  to  seek  relief 
from  its  overpowering  influence  by  plunging  precipitately 
amid  the  joyous  throng  of  swimmers.     But  we  forbore  ! 
The  natives  of  Para  are  very  cleanly,  and  indulge  in 
daily  ablutions ;  nor  do  they  confine  their  baths  to  the 
dusky  hours  of   evening,  but  may  be  seen  swimming 
about  the  public  wharfs  at  all  hours  of  the  day.     The 
government  has  made  several  feeble  efibrts   to   put  a 
restraint  upon  these  public  exposures ;  but  at  the  time 
of  our  departure  all  rules  and  regulations  on  the  subject 
were  totally  disregarded  by  the  natives.     The  city  is 
laid  out  with  considerable  taste  and  regularity  ;  but  the 
streets  are  very  narrow,  and  miserably  paved  with  large 
and  uneven  stones. 

The  buildings  generally  are  but  of  one  story  in  height, 
and  are,  with  few  exceptions,  entirely  destitute  of  glass 
1* 


10 


windows ;  a  kind  of  latticed  blind  is  substituted,  which 
is  so  constructed  that  it  affords  the  person  within  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  whatever  takes  place  in  the  street, 
without  being  observed  in  return.  This  lattice  opens 
towards  the  street,  and  thus  affords  great  facilities  to  the 
beaux  and  gentlemen  of  gallantry  ;  who,  by  stepping 
under  this  covering,  can  have  an  agreeable  tite-d-tite 
with  their  fair  mistresses,  as  secretly  almost  as  if  they 
were  in  a  trellised  arbor  together. 

We  noticed  several  strange  spectacles  as  we  slowly 
•walked  through  the  city.  Venders  of  fruit  with 
huge  baskets  on  their  heads,  filled  with  luscious 
oranges,  bananas,  mangoes,  pineapples,  and  other 
choice  fruits  of  the  tropics  ;  groups  of  blacks  carry- 
ing immense  burdens  in  tlie  same  manner ;  invalids 
reclining  in  their  hammocks,  or  ladies  riding  in  their 
gay-covered  palanquins,  supported  on  men's  shoulders  ; 
and  water-carriers  moving  along  by  the  side  of  their 
heavily-laden  horses  or  mules. 

Finally,  we  met  with  a  party  of  some  thirty  or  forty 
blacks,  each  one  of  them  bearing  a  large  basket  of  tapioca 
on  his  head.  They  were  perfectly  naked  to  their 
waists,  and  wore  only  a  pair  of  pantaloons  of  very  coarse 
material.  They  marched  on  at  a  slow  and  measured 
pace,  chanting  at  the  same  time  a  singularly  monotonous 
air,  to  which  they  beat  time  with  their  hands. 

We  learned  that  they  were  free  blacks,  and  called 
themselves  "  Ganhadores."     Their  business  was  that  of 


n 


loading  and  unloading  vessels  ;  horses  and  carts  being 
but  little  used  in  Para.  These  bands  are  unilcr  the 
direction  of  a  leader  or  captain,  who  furnishes,  on  appli- 
cation, any  number  of  men  that  may  be  required.  In 
loading  vessels,  they  frequently  wade  out  into  the  water 
until  their  heads  and  the  boxes  thereon  are  alone  visible 
above  the  surface.  They  then  deposit  their  several  bur- 
dens in  a  species  of  "  lighter,"  or  flat-bottomed  boat, 
which  conveys  them  immediately  to  the  larger  vessels 
lying  at  anchor  in  the  stream. 

Arriving  at  length  at  the  hospitable  mansion  of  James 
Campbell,  Esq.,  to  whom  we  had  introductory  letters,  we 
were  invited  to  make  his  house  our  home.  The  Ameri- 
can and  Scotch  merchants  at  Para  are  extremely  kind 
to  strangers  ;  and  as  there  is  not  a  single  hotel  of  any 
description  in  the  place,  one  is  obliged  to  throw  himself 
upon  the  kindness  and  generosity  of  the  inhabitants ; 
yet,  if  he  has  good  letters  of  introduction,  he  will  have 
no  difficulty  in  securing  a  residence, — aye,  more,  o 
home. 

It  was  just  three  o'clock  when  we  sat  down  to  our 
first  dinner  in  Para.  Barley  soup  was  the  only  thing 
we  saw ;  but,  this  being  quickly  despatched,  roast  and 
boiled  beef  were  brought  on  the  table.  The  meat  w;is 
tolerably  good,  but  was  strongly  flavored  with  garlic, 
that  indispensable  article  of  cookery  among  the  Bra- 
zilians and  Portuguese. 

A  tempting  assortment  of  vegetables  figured  conspicu- 


12  PARA. 

ously  among  the  side-dishes  ;  but  we  confined  our  atten- 
tion mostly  to  the  unassuming  beans  and  simple  Irish 
potatoes,  probably  from  an  ill-founded  prejudice  for  all 
edibles  which  were  novel  and  unknown. 

These  things  having  been  removed,  port  wine,  oranges, 
bananas,  and  a  variety  of  other  tropical  fruits  were  sub- 
stituted, with  which  we  regaled  ourselves  in  a  sump- 
tuous manner. 

On  the  conclusion  of  the  meal,  wooden  toothpicks 
•were  handed  round,  and  a  few  moments  were  spent  in 
putting  to  rights  our  severely-tasked  grinders. 

We  then  discussed  the  merits  of  a  Brazilian  cigar  ; 
the  less  said,  however,  about  Para  cic/ars,  the  better ; 
they  are  afforded  at  a  very  low  price,  and  are  made  in  a 
most  miserable  manner. 

The  tobacco,  however,  is  intrinsically  of  a  good 
quality,  and  is  for  the  most  part  brought  from  the 
interior,  where  it  grows  spontaneously  in  the  forest. 
It  is  lightly  pressed  into  circular  rolls  of  about  three  feet 
in  length,  which  are  closely  wound  with  rattan,  to  pro- 
tect them  from  the  moisture  of  the  atmosphere.  These 
rolls  contain  from  two  to  three  pounds  each,  and  are 
called  "  molhos  de  tobacco."  Should  you  desire  to  con- 
ciliate the  favor  of  one  of  the  natives,  you  cannot  adopt 
a  more  certain  means  than  of  presenting  him  with  one 
of  these  "molhos."  Shortly  after  dinner  we  once  more 
saUied  out  into  the  open  air.  It  was  a  charming  after- 
noon ;  and  a  delicious  breeze  from  the  sea  fanned  us,  as 


13 


we  strolled  on  towards  the  Roscenia,  or  country  seat  of 
Mr.  Smith,  the  American  consul. 

We  met  many  fine-looking  Indian  women,  carrying 
fruit  and  other  vendible  commodities  on  their  heads, 
while  children  of  both  sexes,  without  even  "  the  summer 
garb  of  Eden,"  were  running  and  sporting  together  in 
the  different  streets  through  which  we  passed. 

Turning  a  certain  corner,  we  perceived  a  number  of 
half-naked  blacks  engaged  in  transporting  a  hogshead  of 
wine.  It  was  encircled  by  several  ropes,  through  the 
loopholes  of  which  long  poles  were  run.  These  were 
supported  on  the  shoulders  of  negroes,  who  uttered  the 
same  discordant  chant  as  they  moved  on,  which  has  been 
noticed  before. 

We  also  encountered  slaves  carrying  their  mistresses 
about  in  a  palanquin.  This  is  a  kind  of  curtained  cab, 
and  is  sometimes  ornamented  in  an  exceedingly  rich  and 
beautiful  manner.  It  is  furnished  with  two  wooden 
arms  in  front,  and  two  more  behind,  by  means  of  which 
it  is  transported  from  place  to  place  by  Indians  or  Negroes. 
Invalids  usually  prefer  taking  the  air  in  a  hammock ; 
it  being  much  more  comfortable  for  such  than  a  palan- 
quin. It  is  suspended  on  a  pole,  sometimes  overhung 
with  a  drapery  of  exquisite  texture,  and  is  composed  of 
either  cotton  or  fine  grass,  embroidered  with  feathers  of 
brilliant  hues. 

Delighted  with  the  appearance  of  the  many  strange 
spectacles  wliich  were  continually  presenting  themselves, 


14  PARA. 

we  were  hardly  conscious  of  our  progress  until  we  had 
arrived  at  the  country  residence  of  Mr.  Smith — a  neat 
little  cottage,  with  a  red  tiled  roof,  and  pleasant  veran- 
da, almost  concealed  from  view  by  the  luxuriance  of  the 
surrounding  and  overhanging  foliage. 

The  consul  received  us  with  that  cordiality  for  which 
he  wjis  eminently  distinguished,  and  invited  us  to  take  a 
stroll  with  him  through  the  shaded  avenues  of  his  gar- 
den. Accepting  his  kind  invitation,  we  took  our  first 
peep  at  the  fruit  trees,  flowers,  and  other  choice  produc- 
tions of  the  tropics — it  was  an  epoch  in  our  lives,  and 
one  of  the  happiest  hours  that  we  ever  spent !  On  all 
sides  of  us,  groups  of  orange,  mango,  guava,  and  lime 
trees,  were  drooping  with  the  weight  of  their  green 
and  golden  fruit — tall  banana  shrubs  threw  out  their 
gigantic  leaves,  while  the  mellow  fruit  hung  in  immense 
clusters  from  their  powerful  stems — rows  of  coffee  bushes 
lined  the  path  on  either  side,  teeming  with  blossoms  of 
snowy  whiteness — tempting  pineapples,  standing  alone 
on  solitary  stalks,  lifted  their  heads  above  the  bed  of 
curious  leaves  by  which  they  were  surrounded — while 
flowering  oleanders  shot  up  to  a  prodigious  height,  and 
fragrant  jessamines  filled  the  atmosphere  with  delicious 
perfume ! 

Seating  ourselves  beneath  the  shelter  of  a  vine-covered 
arbor,  blooming  with  passion-flowers,  we  regaled  our 
palates  with  a  sumptuous  repast  of  chosen  fruits,  which  the 
amiable  senhora  of  our  host  had  caused  to  be  provided. 


PARA,  1ft 

On  returning  to  Mr.  Campbell's,  where  we  were  to 
pass  the  night,  we  encountered  several  water-carriers, 
walking  slowly  along  by  the  side  of  their  jar-laden 
mules.  They  were  finely  formed — thinly  clad,  and  wore 
coarse  hats,  with  brims  of  extraordinary  dimensions. 
The  mules  were  provided  with  panniers,  swung  over  their 
backs,  in  each  of  which  was  placed  a  singularly-shaped 
earthenware  jar,  capable  of  holding  several  gallons  of 
water.  The  city  of  Para  is  supplied  with  water  from  a 
single  spring.  This  is  situated  in  the  suburbs  of  the 
town.  Here  may  be  seen  congregated,  at  all  hours  of 
the  day,  a  motley  assemblage  of  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, busily  engaged  in  filling  their  diflPerent  vessels  from 
this  never-failing  fountain  of  nature  ! 

A  number  of  blacks  bearing  long  poles  on  their 
shoulders,  thickly  strung  with  India-rubber  shoes,  also 
attracted  our  attention.  These  are  for  the  most  part 
manufactured  in  the  interior,  and  are  brought  down  the 
river  for  sale,  by  the  natives.  It  hsis  been  estimated  that 
•at  least  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  pairs  of  shoes 
are  annually  exported  from  the  province,  and  the  num- 
ber is  constantly  on  the  increase. 

A  few  words  here  respecting  the  tree  itself,  and  the 
manufacture  of  the  shoes,  may  not  be  out  of  place. 

The  tree  (Siphilla  Elastics)  is  quite  peculiar  in  its 
appearance,  and  sometimes  reaches  the  height  of  eighty 
and  even  a  hundred  feet.  The  trunk  is  perfectly  round, 
rather  smooth,  and  protected  by  a  bark  of  a  light  color. 


16  PARA. 

The  leaves  grow  in  clusters  of  three  together,  are  thin, 
and  of  an  ovate  form,  and  are  from  ten  to  fourteen 
inches  in  length.  The  centre  leaf  of  the  cluster  is  always 
the  longest. 

This  remarkable  tree  bears  a  curious  fruit,  of  the  size 
of  a  peach,  which,  although  not  very  palatable,  is  eagerly 
sought  after  by  different  animals — it  is  separated  into 
three  lobes,  which  contain  each  a  small  black  nut.  The 
trees  are  tapped  in  the  same  manner  that  New  England- 
ers  tap  maple  trees.  The  trunk  having  been  perforated, 
a  yellowish  li<|uid,  resembling  cream,  flows  out,  which  is 
caught  in  small  clay  cups,  fastened  to  the  tree.  When 
these  become  full,  their  contents  are  emptied  into  large 
earthen  jars,  in  which  the  liquid  is  kept  until  desired 
for  use. 

The  operation  of  making  the  shoes  is  as  simple  as  it  is 
interesting.  Imagine  yourself,  dear  reader,  in  one  of  the 
seringa  groves  of  Brazil.  Around  you  are  a  number  of 
good-looking  natives,  of  low  stature  and  ohve  com- 
plexions. All  are  variously  engaged.  One  is  stirring 
with  a  long  wooden  stick  the  contents  of  a  cauldron, 
placed  over  a  pile  of  blazing  embers.  This  is  the  liquid 
as  it  was  taken  from  the  rubber  tree.  Into  this  a  wooden 
"  last,"  covered  with  clay,  and  having  a  handle,  is 
plunged.  A  coating  of  the  liquid  remains.  You  will 
perceive  that  another  native  then  takes  the  "  last,"  and 
holds  it  in  the  smoke  arising  from  the  ignition  of  a 
species  of  pahn   fruit,  for  the  purpose  of  causing  the 


11 


glutinous  substance  to  assume  a  dark  color.  The  "  last" 
is  then  plunged  again  into  the  cauldron,  and  this  pro- 
cess is  repeated,  as  in  dipping  candles,  until  the  coating 
is  of  the  required  thickness.  You  will,  moreover,  notice 
a  number  of  Indian  girls  (some  very  pretty)  engaged 
in  making  various  impressions,  such  as  flowers,  &c.,  upon 
the  soft  surface  of  the  rubber,  by  means  of  their  thumb 
nails,  which  are  especially  pared  and  cultivated  for  this 
purpose.  After  this  final  operation,  the  shoes  are  placed 
in  the  sun  to  harden,  and  large  numbers  of  them  may 
be  seen  laid  out  on  mats  in  exposed  situations.  The 
aboriginal  name  of  the  rubber  is  cahuchu,  from  which 
the  formidable  word  of  caoutchouc  is  derived.  In  Para 
it  is  styled  borracha  or  seringa  ! 

It  was  past  sunset  when  we  arrived  at  Mr.  Campbell's. 
Having  supped  with  him,  we  spent  the  former  part  of 
the  evening  in  playing  a  sociable  game  of  cards,  and 
then  strolled  out  again,  to  walk  through  the  city  by 
moonliglit.  It  was  a  glorious  night !  The  air  was  redo- 
lent with  the  incense  of  flowers,  and  no  sounds  but 
those  of  music  and  mirth  broke  upon  our  ears  !  returning 
once  more  to  the  house,  we  ensconced  ourselves  in  our 
hammocks,  and  while  a  crowd  of  strange  and  beautiful 
images  were  dancing  in  our  minds,  we  happily  fell  asleep. 


18  PARA 


CHAPTER    n. 

The  Province  of  Para. — Its  vast  Extent. — El  Dorado,  or  the  City 
of  the  Gilded  King. — The  Discovery  of  the  Amazon  by  Orel- 
lana. — Fighting  Women  encountered  on  its  Banks. — The 
Capture  of  Para  by  Lord  Cochrane. — Present  Condition. — In- 
surrection of  1835. 

Before  resuming  our  personal  narrative,  Ave  think  it  ex- 
pedient to  give  our  reader  a  brief  account  of  the  past 
history  of  the  province,  including  a  short  notice  of  the 
disturbances  of  1835.  It  may  with  truth  be  remarked, 
that  there  is  no  country  of  equal  extent  which  rivak 
Brazil  in  point  of  natural  magnificence. 

This  vast  empire  is  divided  into  nineteen  provinces,  of 
which  that  of  Para  is  the  largest  and  most  productive. 
This  immense  territory  lies  immediately  under  the  Equa- 
tor, on  both  sides  of  the  Amazon,  and  extends  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  borders  of  Peru.  It  contains  not  less 
than  nine  hundred  thousand  square  miles  ;  an  area  equal 
almost,  In  extent,  to  one  half  that  of  the  whole  United 
States,  including  all  of  its  territories.  It  is  entirely 
covered  by  a  dense  forotif.  of  indescribable  grandeur  and 
beauty,  abounding  in  rare  spic^ss  and  valuable  woods, 
plants,  and  aroraatics,  of  the  most  deViglitful  odor,  and 


PARA,  19 

bright  plumaged  birds  and  singurla  animals  of  endless 
varieties. 

Throughout  this  wide  domain  no  white  adventurer 
has  ever  roved !  He  may  have  sailed  on  the  bosom  of 
many  of  its  noble  rivers,  or  wandered  along  by  the 
margin  of  its  numerous  streams,  but  the  interior  is  to 
him  as  yet  an  untravelled  region,  whose  silence  has  been 
undisturbed,  save  by  the  howling  of  animals,  the  discord- 
ant cries  of  unknown  birds,  and  the  yells  of  savage 
Indians,  since  the  primeval  dawn  of  creation  !  Speaking 
of  the  boundless  country  of  the  Amazons,  Mr.  Kidder,  in 
his  elaborate  work,  eloquently  remarks  : 

"  No  portion  of  the  earth  involves  a  greater  degree  of 
physical  interest.  Its  central  position  upon  the  equator, 
ita  vast  extent,  its  unlimited  resources,  its  mammoth 
rivers,  and  the  romance  that  still  lingers  in  its  name  and 
history,  are  all  peculiar.  Three  hundred  years  have 
elapsed  since  this  region  was  discovered,  but  down  to  the 
present  day,  two  thirds  of  it  remain  uncivilized  and 
unexplored !" 

For  the  discovery  of  the  existence  of  Amazonia,  pos- 
terity is  indebted  to  Orellana,  one  of  the  companions  of 
the  cruel  and  bloodthirsty  Gonzalo  Pizarro,  in  his  futile 
search  after  the  imaginary  city  of  "  El  Dorado,"  or  the 
"  Gilded  King." 

This  was  a  magnificent  city,  of  golden  palaces,  and 
streets  paved  with  precious  stones,  supposed  to  exist 
somewhere  in  the  interior  of  South  America.     Exagge- 


20 


rated  accounts  of  it  had  been  given  to  the  credulous 
Spaniards  by  the  crafty  natives,  which  excited  the 
avariciousness  of  the  former  to  such  a  degree,  that  they 
did  not  hesitate  to  shed  the  blood  of  all  who  denied  its 
existence,  believing  they  did  so  from  an  unwillingness  to 
give  them  any  information  concerning  it. 

It  was  in  the  year  1544  that  Pizarro,  with  an  army 
of  three  hundred  soldiers  and  four  thousand  Indians, 
left  Quito,  the  capital  of  the  Peruvian  empire,  for  the 
purpose  of  discovering  this  famous  city  of  gold. 

Innumerable  and  arduous  were  the  obstacles  they  met, 
and  the  privations  and  hardships  they  were  forced  to 
encounter.  They  were  obliged  to  cut  their  way  through 
a  dense  forest,  abounding  in  wild  beasts  of  various  kinds, 
and  snakes  and  reptiles  of  the  most  dangerous  descrip- 
tions— to  climb  mountains  and  descend  steep  precipices 
— to  cross  plains  submerged  with  water — to  wade 
through  putrefying  lagoons  and  marshes,  and  to  contend 
with  numerous  savage  tribes  of  Indians,  who  surrounded 
them  on  all  sides. 

For  many  toilsome  weeks  they  journeyed  on  !  Their 
provisions  becoming  exhausted,  they  were  threatened 
with  all  the  miseries  of  famine,  and  were  necessitated  to 
make  food  of  their  dogs  and  horses.  A  great  number  had 
died,  others  were  sick,  and  when  at  last  they  reached 
the  banks  of  the  river  Napo,  hardly  more  than  one  tenth 
of  the  army  remained,  and  these  were  almost  worn  out 
with  their  sufferings. 


21 


Here  Pizano  encamped ;  and  liaving  heard  reports 
from  the  natives  of  a  larger  river  into  which  this  flowed, 
he  dispatched  a  vessel  under  the  command  of  Francisco 
de  Orellana  to  ascertain  this  f:\ct,  and  if  possible  to  pro- 
cure a  fresh  supply  of  provisions. 

After  having  sailed  down  the  river  some  two  or  three 
hundred  miles,  all  idea  of  returning,  on  the  part  of 
Orollana,  was  abandoned.  He  saw  that  it  would  be 
utterly  impossible  for  him  to  carry  any  relief  to  Pizarro 
and  his  army,  and  knew  that  by  prosecuting  his  journey, 
and  discovering  the  mighty  river,  of  which  they  had 
heard  such  glowing  accounts,  he  might  save  the  lives, 
and  clothe  the  names  of  himself  and  companions  with 
undying  glory  ! 

Stimulated  with  such  inspiring  hopes,  they  continued 
their  voyage  down  the  river.  Its  banks  were  lined  by  a 
gigantic  and  beautiful  vegetation,  whose  tall  trees  cast 
their  long  shadows  over  the  water,  and  protected  the 
voyagers  from  the  overpowering  rays  of  the  sun. 

At  the  expiration  of  eight  days,  they  discovered  a 
small  Indian  settlement,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  which  they  immediately  took  possession  of  in  the 
name  of  the  crown  of  Castile.  The  natives  were  at  first 
exceedingly  frightened,  and  fled  away  into  the  woods — 
acquiring  confidence,  they  afterwards  returned,  bringing 
with  them  fruits  and  various  kinds  of  provisions,  which 
they  oftered  to  their  strange  and  unaccountable  visitors. 
Orellana  havinof  remained  at  this  settlement  until  he  had 


22  PARA. 

built  a  new  vessel,  once  more  resumed  his  voyage. 
Many  wore  the  startling  adventures  which  they  encoun- 
tered in  saihng  down  the  rapid  current  of  the  mighty 
Amazon.  Not  the  least  of  these  was  their  meeting  with 
a  party  of  Amazons,  or  fighting  women,  who  are 
described  by  Friar  Gasper  as  being  tall  in  stature,  sym- 
metrical in  form,  and  decorated  with  long  and  luxuriant 
tresses  of  braided  hair.  This  story  was  doubtless  a  fable, 
invented  for  the  purpose  of  throwing  a  shade  of  romance 
over  their  wonderful  voyage.  Certainly  no  such  women 
now  exist  on  the  Amazon,  and  in  all  probability  never 
did !  Yet  the  fiction  of  the  discoverer  has  given  a  name 
to  the  river,  which  will  long  outlive  his  own  ! 

At  the  expiration  of  seven  months,  Orellana  arrived 
at  the  ocean.  Having  landed  at  a  certain  island  in  order 
to  repair  his  vessels,  he  sailed  direct  for  Spain.  lie  was 
received  with  great  honor  by  his  sovereign,  to  whom  he 
gave  an  exaggerated  account  of  his  extraordinary  voyage, 
and  the  important  discoveries  he  had  made. 

A  second  expedition  was  soon  fitted  out,  which, 
however,  was  unsuccessful.  On  account  of  the  multipli- 
city of  small  islands  in  its  mouth,  they  were  unable  to 
find  the  main  branch  of  the  river,  and  were  obliged  to 
return  without  having  accomplished  anything  worthy  of 
remark.  Soon  after  this  event  Orellana  languished  and 
died.  Several  efforts  have  been  made  to  restore  his 
name  to  the  river,  but  in  vain.  It  is  destined  to  be 
called  "  The  Amazon  "  for  ever. 


23 


Tlie  intervention  of  the  isl;ind  of  Marojo  in  the  mouth 
of  the  Amazon  constitutes  two  great  branches,  the 
southern  one  of  which  has  been  termed  "The  Para 
River."  On  this  the  city  is  situated,  near  its  junction 
with  the  Tocantino.  The  city  h;is  about  fifteen  thousand 
inhabitants,  incUiding  blacks  and  Indians.  It  was  founded 
by  Francisco  Caldeira  in  1616,  and  was  designated  as 
"Tlie  City  of  St.  Mary  of  Bethlehem,"— a  name  which 
it  retains  to  the  present  day  in  some  of  the  pubhc  papers 
and  documents.  Its  exact  position  is  in  latitude  1°  28' 
south,  and  longitude  48°  28'  west.  The  Portuguese 
language  is  the  one  generally  spoken. 

Previous  to  the  revolution  of  1823,  Para  was  subject 
to  the  authority  of  Portugal.  It  was  then  taken  by  Lord 
Cochrane,  and  compelled  to  swear  allegiance  to  Don 
Pedro  11.  This  object  having  been  accomplished  by 
stratagem,  the  people  were  very  boisterous,  and  could  not 
be  quelled,  except  by  severe  and  sanguinary  measures. 
Several  of  the  mo1>ringleader3  were  shot,  and  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  others  were  taken  prisoners.  It  was  found 
necessary  to  place  these  in  the  hold  of  a  small  vessel 
lying  in  the  harbor,  the  hatches  of  which  were  guarded 
by  fifteen  Brazilian  soldiers.  The  following  graphic 
description  of  this  occurrence  is  given  by  Mr.  Kidder  in 
his  work  on  Brazil,  wlio  derived  it  from  creditable  Por- 
tuguese autlioritv : — ''  Crowded  until  almost  unable  to 
breathe,  and  suffering  alike  from  hunger  and  thirst,  the 
poor  wretches  attempted  to  force  their  way  on  deck,  but 


24 


were  repulsed  by  the  guard,  who,  after  firing  upon 
them,  and  fastening  down  the  hatchway,  drew  a  piece 
of  ordnance  across  it,  and  effectually  debarred  all  egress. 
The  stifling  sensation  caused  by  this  exclusion  of  air 
drove  the  suffering  crowd  to  utter  madness,  and  many 
are  said  to  have  lacerated  and  mangled  each  other  in 
the  most  horrible  manner.  Suffocation,  with  all  its  ago- 
nies, succeeded.  The  aged  and  the  young,  the  strong 
and  feeble,  the  assailant  and  his  antagonist,  all  sank 
down  exhausted,  in  the  agonies  of  death.  In  the  hope 
of  alleviating  their  sufferings,  a  stream  of  water  was  at 
length  let  into  the  hold,  and  towards  morning  the  tumult 
abated ;  but  from  a  cause  which  had  not  been  antici- 
pated. Of  all  the  two  hundred  and  fifty-three,  four  only 
were  found  alive,  who  had  escaped  destruction  by  con- 
cealing themselves  behind  a  water-butt." 

All  that  can  be  said  in  extenuation  of  this  deplorable 
catastrophe  is,  that  it  proceeded  more  from  carelessness 
and  gross  ignorance  than  from  deliberation  and  design. 

The  present  condition  of  Para  is  exceedingly  auspicious. 
Peace  and  quiet  now  prevail  throughout  its  extensive 
wilds,  undisturbed  by  the  sounds  of  warfare  or  the  shouts 
of  infuriated  savages.  Nature  seems  to  have  lavished 
upon  this  favored  province  her  choicest  gifts,  her  most 
alluring  charms.  Here  bloom  the  gayest  flowers,  distilling 
their  fragrance  on  the  air  around.  Here  flourish  the 
loftiest  trees,  whose  feathery  branches  wave  in  the  softest 
breeze.     Where  can  be   found   more   picturesque   and 


25 


romantic  scenery,  or  a  purer  and  softer  atmosphere? 
Her  mammoth  rivers,  flowing  rapidly  from  the  lofty 
mountains  in  which  their  childhood  was  nurtured,  wander 
through  the  recesses  of  a  forest  of  unrivalled  grandeur, 
distributing  their  fertilizing  influence  on  every  side.  No 
sounds  now  break  their  pervading  stillness  save  the 
voices  of  occasional  wanderers,  or  the  notes  of  happy 
birds. 

But  this  repose  has  not  always  existed.  No  longer 
ago  than  the  year  1835  this  lovely  province  was  the 
scene  of  a  violent  commotion.  Massacre,  with  her 
bloody  hand,  brandished  over  the  city  her  glittering 
weapon,  stained  with  human  gore.  The  war-shouts  of 
revengeful  Indians  rang  through  the  silent  avenues  of 
the  forest.  Strange  echoes  startled  the  solitudes  of  the 
groves,  and  the  innocent  birds  fled  afirighted  from  their 
sylvan  homes,  to  seek  for  themselves  a  place  of  greater 
security  in  the  very  heart  of  the  wilderness. 

It  was  on  the  14th  of  August  that  a  large  body  of 
Indians,  provoked  beyond  measure  at  the  numerous 
injuries  which  they  had  sustained  from  the  government 
of  Para,  and  instigated  by  the  example  of  a  number  of 
mutinous  soldiers,  who  had  assassinated  the  president  of 
the  province,  together  with  several  others  in  authority, 
suddenly  descended  to  revenge  their  many  wrongs,  by 
taking  immediate  possession  of  the  capital. 

This  outbreak  was  wholly  unexpected,  and  the  inhabit- 
ants were  therefore  but  poorly  prepared  to  sustain  so 

2 


26  PARA. 

vigorous  an  attack.  For  three  days,  however,  a  brave 
though  xiseless  resistance  was  manifested  by  the  citizens, 
who  barricaded  some  of  tlie  strongest  houses,  and  having 
fortified  the  windows  by  means  of  hirge  cotton-bales,  kept 
up  a  continual  fire  upon  their  ruthless  invaders. 

The  commander  of  an  English  man-of-war  at  anchor 
in  the  harbor,  sent  ashore  a  body  of  marines,  to  assist  in 
the  defence  of  the  city.  On  account,  however,  of  the 
pusillanimous  conduct  of  the  new  president,  these  were 
soon  withdrawn  ;  but  the  guns  of  the  vessel  were  turned 
towards  the  city,  and  a  destructive  fire  kept  up  incessantly 
against  the  insurgents. 

But,  notwithstanding  all  efforts,  resistance  proved 
futile ;  force  and  numbers  finally  prevailed,  and  the  city 
itself  was  abandoned  to  the  fury  of  the  enemy.  The 
lives  and  property  of  foreigners  had  been  respected  by 
the  Indians,  and  no  women  or  children  were  slaughtered 
during  the  conflict.  This  fact  discloses  a  trait  in  the 
character  of  the  natives,  which  is  certainly  worthy  of 
commendation.  It  shows,  moreover,  that  tliey  were  not 
instigated  by  cruelty,  but  only  by  a  natural  desire  to 
redress  the  manifold  insults  which  had  been  heaped  upon 
them  by  theii'  persecutors. 

The  citizens  betook  themselves  to  the  difterent  vesseb 
in  the  harbor,  which  conveyed  them  to  Maranham,  a 
flourishing  seaport,  distant  about  four  or  five  hundred 
miles  from  Para, 

For  nine  months  the  Indians  held  undisturbed  posses- 


27 


siou  of  the  city ;  at  the  expiration  of  which  time  it  was 
retaken  by  a  body  of  imperial  soldiers,  under  the  com- 
mand of  General  iVndrea.  Great  changes,  however,  had 
been  wrought  during  this  period  of  anarchy  and  rapine. 
The  houses  had  been  pillaged  of  everything  that  was 
valuable ;  flourishing  plantations  had  been  destroyed  by 
fire ;  and  the  streets  of  the  city  were  so  filled  up  with 
gigantic  weeds  as  to  be  almost  impassable,  while  hun- 
dreds of  human  skeletons,  blanched  to  a  chalky  whiteness 
by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  lay  glistening  among  the  grass. 
These  were  all  collected  together  into  an  in\mense  pile, 
and  burnt  in  one  of  the  public  squares  of  the  city. 

Since  this  period  no  disturbances  have  occurred ;  and 
probably  none  will,  until  fresh  cruelties  on  the  part  of 
the  Portuguese  shall  again  rouse  the  dormant  passions 
of  the  Indians,  and  excite  them  to  revenge. 


28  PARA 


CHAPTER    III. 

Removal  to  the  "  Roscenia  de  Nazere." — Curious  Monument. — 
Charming  Garden. — '  Chico.' — Variety  of  Fruits. — Pine-apples 
and  Bananas. — A  dreamy  Siesta. — First  Hunt  in  the  Forest. — 
An  old  Ruin. — A  Monkey  Adventure. 

A  FEW  days  after  my  airival  at  Para,  as  I  was  prome- 
nading the  streets  one  morning,  I  was  suddenly  accosted 
by  a  familiar  voice,  and,  looking  up,  whom  should  I  see 
but  an  old  schoolmate  of  mine,  comfortably  seated  on 
the  balcony  of  a  large  stone  house,  quietly  smoking  his 
fragrant  cigar. 

Descending  immediately  and  shaking  me  cordially  by 
the  hand,  he  insisted  upon  taking  us  into  the  house  and 
introducing  us  to  his  father,  who  was  one  of  the  richest 
and  most  influential  men  in  the  city.  The  old  gentleman 
appeared  to  be  glad  to  see  us,  and  treated  us  with  a  vast 
deal  of  politeness. 

As  soon  as  Mr.  Danin  (for  this  was  the  gentleman's 
name)  understood  that  we  had  come  out  to  Brazil  for 
the  sake  of  our  health,  and  of  pursuing  the  study  of 
natural  history,  he  very  kindly  offered  us  the  entire  con- 
trol of  a  charming  country-seat  of  his,  situated  within  a 


p  A  n  A .  29 

mile  of  the  city,  called  "  The  Roscenia  de  Nazere."  As 
this  estate  was  just  on  the  borders  of  the  forest,  and 
therefore  well  located  for  sporting  ])Ui'])oses,  we  did  not 
hesitate  to  accept  the  kind  offer  that  had  been  made  us. 

In  two  or  three  days,  having  made  all  necessary 
arrangements,  bought  our  provisions,  and  hired  a  cook, 
we  took  our  departure  for  Nazere. 

An  odd  spectacle  we  presented  in  walking  out  to  the 
Koscenia.  We  had  chartered  ten  or  twelve  blacks  to 
carry  our  luggage,  each  of  whom  was  loaded  with  some 
item  of  provisions  or  of  furniture.  One  had  a  sack 
of  beans,  another  a  hamper  of  potatoes,  while  a  third 
carried  a  large  basket  of  farina  poised  upon  his  head. 
We  ourselves  marched  along  in  the  rear,  with  our  trusty 
ffuns  mounted  on  our  shoulders  and  long  wood-knives 
gleaming  in  our  hands. 

Scarcely  had  we  proceeded  beyond  the  limits  of  the 
city,  when  we  were  encompassed  by  a  strange  and  mag- 
nificent vegetation.  Groups  of  palm  trees,  with  their 
tall  stems  and  feather-like  branches,  were  waving  in  the 
distance,  while  plants  of  curious  form,  and  bushes  teeming 
with  flowers,  surrounded  us  on  every  side. 

The  scenery  of  the  Largo  de  Pulvera  (over  which  we 
passed  in  our  route)  was  very  picturesque.  A  row  of 
low  cottages  ran  along  one  side,  fronted  by  a  narrow 
walk.  These  little  habitations  were  tenanted  by  blacks 
and  Indians,  and  had  quite  a  neat  and  pretty  appearance. 
On  the  ojjposite  side,  at  the  distiince  of  several  hundred 


30  PARA, 

yards,  the  forest  commenced,  dotted  here  and  there  along 
its  margin  by  handsome  httle  cottages  peeping  from 
amid  the  thick  fohage  around  them. 

Having  crossed  the  Largo,  we  pursued  our  way  through 
a  rich  defile  of  shrubbery,  until  we  finally  emerged  into 
another  beautiful  and  extensive  "  clearing,"  called  the 
"  Largo  de  Nazere." 

The  first  object  that  arrested  our  attention  was  a  strange 
looking  monument  built  of  wood,  standing  at  the  very 
entrance  of  the  "  Largo."  Our  curiosity  being  excited, 
we  inquired  of  a  gentleman  who  accompanied  us  for 
what  purpose  it  was  erected.  In  reply  he  told  us  the 
following  anecdote : — Many  years  ago,  a  certain  president 
of  the  province,  who  was  rambling  in  the  woods  in  quest 
of  game,  became  lost  in  the  dense  mazes  of  the  forest. 
For  three  long  days  he  wandered  disconsolately  about, 
in  vain  seeking  for  some  avenue  by  which  he  might  effect 
his  escape.  Nearly  famished  for  want  of  food,  hope  had 
almost  deserted  him  ;  when,  on  the  morning  of  the  fourth 
day,  a  sound  like  that  of  the  tinkling  of  a  distant  bell 
broke  upon  his  ear.  He  listened — again  he  heard  that 
cheerful  sound,  more  clear  and  strong.  Re-animated  by 
the  music  of  the  bell,  he  bent  his,steps  in  the  direction 
from  whence  the  melody  seemed  to  proceed,  for  melody 
indeed  it  was  to  him.  Pressing  on,  he  at  last  issued 
from  the  forest  near  the  spot  where  the  monument  now 
stands;  hence  its  origin. 

There  was  quite  a  number  of  native  dwellings  on  the 


31 


Largo,  and  necar  the  centre  of  it  a  pretty  little  church, 
with  a  small  portico  built  out  in  front.  We  observea 
that  the  natives,  whenever  they  passed  this  church,  were 
accustomed  to  render  deference  to  it  by  falling  down  on 
their  knees  and  crossing  themselves.  To  such  an  extent 
is  superstition  rife  in  this  sun-favored  clime. 

We  at  length  arrived  at  the  stone-gateway  of  the 
Rosceuia ;  a  slave  opened  the  iron  door  and  we  entered. 
A  long  avenue,  formed  by  the  overhanging  of  the  trees 
on  either  side,  was  before  us,  through  which  we  saw  the 
dwelling-house  of  the  garden,  almost  concealed  by  the 
foliage,  standing  at  the  distance  of  seventy-five  or  a 
hundred  yards  from  us.  The  mansion  was  large,  of  but 
one  story  in  height,  covered  with  earthenware  tiles,  and 
surrounded  by  a  wide  and  roof-covered  veranda. 

Under  this  commodious  veranda  we  rested  ourselves, 
and  regaled  our  palates  with  rare  fruit  plucked  fresh  from 
the  well-laden  trees  of  the  garden.  We  then  began  to 
attend  to  domestic  affairs,  and  much  did  we  feel  the  want 
of  a  nice  little '  Fayaway'  to  take  charge  of  these  important 
matters  for  us.  Just  as  we  had  swung  our  hammocks, 
stowed  away  our  provisions,  and  put  our  guns  and 
ammunition  in  readiness  for  immediat;e  use,  our  cook 
rang  the  bell  for  dinner. 

"  Pray,  why  did  she  not  call  you  ?"  methinks  I  hear 
some  one  inquire ;  well,  then,  it  was  because  she  could 
not  speak  English  nor  we  Portuguese,  if  you  must  know, 
curious  reader.     We  were  obliged  to  communicate  our 


32  PARA. 

ideas  to  her  by  pantomime ;  and  it  is  a  great  wonder  to 
us,  now  that  we  think  of  it,  that  we  ever  got  anything 
to  eat  at  all.  Chico  was  an  excellent  and  experienced 
cook ;  but  she  was  a  slave,  and  we  had  hired  her  from 
her  fair  mistress  in  the  city. 

Under  the  tuition  of  Chico,  and  the  absolute  necessity 
which  there  was  for  us  either  to  speak  or  to  starve,  we 
began  to  acquire  the  language  with  amazing  rapidity, 
and  in  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  we  were  able  to  carry 
on  quite  a  conversation  with  the  pretty  Indian  damsels, 
who  daily  visited  us  at  the  Eoscenia.  The  grounds  of 
the  Roscenia  were  extensive  and  as  enchanting  as  those 
of  Eden  ;  the  garden  was  well  supplied  with  the  choicest 
fruit-trees  and  with  the  most  beautiful  flowers.  The  walks 
were  wide  and  well-gravelled ;  on  either  side  of  them 
were  rows  of  trees,  bending  over  with  the  weight  of  their 
golden  and  crimson  fruit,  thus  forming  a  fairy-like  arbor 
of  green  throughout  the  entire  avenue. 

The  variety  of  fruits  seemed  infinite.  Here  was  a 
little  grove  of  orange-trees  clustering  together ;  there,  a 
collection  of  guava,  bacata,  and  ruby-tinged  cashew-trees 
tastefully  arranged  along  the  walk. 

Delectable  pine-apples  also  grew  in  the  garden.  This 
fine  fruit  is  called  l)y  the  natives  "  anana,"  It  arrives 
at  great  perfection  in  the  province,  and  is  justly  deemed 
one  of  the  richest  of  all  tropical  fruits.  Specimens  of 
this  fruit  have  been  brouglit  to  the  Para  market  weighing 
near  twenty  pounds.     So  delicious  is  its  natural  flavor, 


33 


and  such  its  sweetness  when  perfectly  ripe,  that  no  sugar 
is  required  in  eating  it.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  state, 
that  it  grows  by  itself  on  a  single  stem,  surrounded  by  a 
bed  of  large  and  S2>ear-like  leaves. 

"  Its  luscious  fruit  Anana  rears, 
Amid  a  coronet  of  spears." 

Perhaps  the  most  conspicuous  vegetable  curiosity  that 
grew  in  the  garden  was  the  far-famed  banana  plant. 
This  shrub  has  been  much  extolled  by  travellers,  and  is 
indeed  a  blessing  to  all  tropical  countries.  It  attains  to 
the  height  of  from  ten  to  twelve  feet,  and  bears  large 
clusters  of  fruit,  oftentimes  weighing  more  than  fifty 
pounds.  The  bananas  are  of  a  yellow  color  when  fully 
ripe,  and  are  said  to  possess  more  nutriment  than  any 
other  species  of  fruit.  They  are  prepared  in  various 
modes.  Some  prefer  them  roasted ;  others,  again,  cut 
them  into  slices,  and  fry  them  with  butter;  but  we 
ourselves  relish  them  best  in  their  natural  state,  with  the 
addition  of  a  little  port  wine  and  sugar,  as  a  kind  of  sauce. 
Eaten  in  this  manner,  they  are  exceedingly  palatable. 

Having  spent  a  considerable  portion  of  our  first  after- 
noon in  rambling  about  the  Roscenia,  for  the  purpose  of 
making  ourselves  acquainted  with  the  extent  and 
products  of  our  miniature  kinf/dom,  we  returned  to  the 
house.  Supper  was  soon  prepared  for  us,  on  a  small 
table  under  the  veranda.  It  consisted  merely  of  bread, 
2* 


34 


butter,  and  chocolate ;  yet  our  appetites  were  keen,  and 
we  enjoyed  the  meal  as  well  as  if  there  had  been  a 
greater  variety. 

Having  concluded  our  evening  meal,  and  being 
rather  fatigued  with  the  exercise  we  had  undergone,  and 
excitement  we  had  experienced  during  the  day,  we 
threw  ourselves  into  our  suspended  hammocks,  lighted 
a  choice  cigar,  and  took  a  refreshing  siesta.  Dreamy 
visions  came  o'er  us.  Here  we  were  at  last,  in  the 
lovely  land  we  had  so  long  desired  to  see,  sole  tenants 
of  an  estate,  which  for  beauty  and  variety  surpassed  any 
we  had  ever  seen  before.  True,  we  were  alone,  and  on 
the  very  borders  of  a  boundless  wilderness ;  but,  would 
we  not  soon  find  sufficient  companionship  in  the  natural 
beauties  by  which  we  were  surrounded, — in  the  trees, 
the  plants,  the  flowers;  and,  most  of  all,  the  joyous, 
bright-winged  birds !  Before  and  around  us,  Nature 
seemed  clothed  in  her  fairest  charms.  Gay  flowers 
bloomed  amid  the  shrubbery ;  birds  sang  and  chattered 
among  the  trees  ;  a  solitary  cocoa-nut  was  shaking  its 
plume-like  branches  in  the  sweet  scented  breeze,  and  stood 
like  a  sentinel  just  before  the  porch.  Our  thoughts 
wandered  back  to  our  home  and  friends — far — far  away. 
Could  our  friends  but  visit  us  here,  but  for  one  short 
hour,  how  truly  happy  would  we  be  ! — with  what  delight 
would  they  enter  the  iron  gateway ! — how  fascinated 
would  they  be  with  the  beauty  of  the  garden  ! — how 
like  Paradise  would  everything  appear  ! — and  with  what 


35 


ecstasy  would  we  receive  them  !  All  this  i):vssed  throu^di 
our  minds  as  we  lay  swinging-  in  our  liainmocl-Ls,  under 
the  tree-shaded  veranda  of  Nazere, 

Awaking  from  the  stupor  into  which  we  had  fallen, 
we  perceived  that  the  sun  had  just  gone  down,  leaving  a 
delicate  tinge  of  guld  along  the  western  horizon;  the 
stars  were  beginning  to  gleam  in  the  cloudless  sky 
above,  and  to  illumine  with  a  mellow  light  the  bewitching 
garden  around  us.  Silence  reigned,  giving  solemnity  to 
the  beauteous  scene. 

On  the  following  morning  we  were  aroused  from  our 
slumbei-s  at  least  an  hour  before  sunrise  by  the  noisy 
chattering  of  the  birds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  liouse.  We 
accoutred  ourselves  speedily  in  our  shooting  costume, 
drank  a  cup  of  strong  coffee,  and  sallied  forth,  in  company 
with  an  Indian  guide,  on  our  first  hunting  expedition  in 
a  tropical  forest. 

We  had  advanced  a  considerable  distance  in  the  woods, 
when  the  sun  arose  fi-om  his  golden  couch  in  the  east, 
and  shed  a  flood  of  light  over  the  sylvan  landscape.  The 
dew  glittered  like  jewels  on  the  leaves ;  insects  began  to 
animate  the  atmosphere,  and  gorgeous-plumaged  birds 
to  fly  from  tree  to  tree.  The  path  we  had  taken  was 
extremely  narrow,  and  so  choked  up  with  weeds  and 
running  vines,  that  we  were  obliged  to  cut  a  passage 
before  us  with  our  "  tracados,"  or  wood-knives,  as  we 
slowly  and  cautiously  proceeded.     These  long  knives  are 


86  ^  PARA. 

absolutely  indispensable  to  one  travelling  in  a  Brazilian 
forest ;  in  fact,  everybody  you  meet  with,  blacks,  Indians, 
women,  and  children,  are  provided  with  them. 

Stopping  now  and  then  for  a  moment,  to  shoot  a 
"toucan,"  or  other  brilliant  bird  that  attracted  our  notice, 
we  at  last  arrived  at  an   old   and   dilapidated  estate, 
literally  buried  in  the  wilderness.     Here  was  a  vast  ruin 
of  solid  stone,  which  had  evidently  been  once  a  splendid 
building,  of  superior   architecture.     It  was   overgrown 
with  moss  and  creeping  vines,  and  tenanted  only  by  bats 
and  venomous  reptiles ;  yet  it  was  majestic  and  interest- 
ing even  in  its  decay.     Concerning  the  origin  of  this 
strange  building  we  were  never  able  to  ascertain  anything 
of  a   satisfactory   nature.     Some   suppose   it  was   the 
residence    of    a   certain    nobleman,    by    the   name   of 
Chermont;  others,  that  it  was  a  kind  of  fortification; 
while   many  think    that   it  was  one   of  the   religious 
institutions  of  the  Jesuits,  who  were  quite  numerous  in 
the  province  many  years  ago.     But  these  are  nothing 
more  than  surmises.     The  truth  is,  there  is  a  mystery 
hanging  over  it  which  no  one  has  ever   been  able  to 
unravel,  and  which  will  undoubtedly  remain  a  mystery 
for  ever !     We  spent  an  hour  or  more  in  examining  the 
ruin,  and  were  rewarded  for  our  researches  by  finding 
several   new   and  valuable   shells,  which   we   carefully 
preserved. 

Leaving  this  place,  we   next  visited  the  "Pedrara," 


37 


another  estate  several  miles  distant,  situated,  too,  in  the 
midst  of  the  forest.  Here  we  found  a  thriving  garden, 
and  a  pleasant-looking  farm-house,  the  inmates  of  which 
received  us  very  hospitahly.  Joaquim,  our  Indian  guide, 
in  conversing  with  the  proprietor  of  the  house,  took  my 
gun  from  my  hand,  for  the  purpose  of  pointing  out  to 
him  its  peculiar  advantages  and  virtues.  In  so  doing  he 
carelessly  raised  the  hammer,  which  immediately  slipped 
from  his  grasp,  and  the  gun,  which  was  well  charged  at 
the  time  with  coarse  shot,  exploded,  lodging  its  contents 
in  the  side  of  the  building, — fortunately,  however,  no 
one  was  injured.  Soon  after  this  occurrence,  our  kind 
host  placed  before  us  several  kinds  of  fruit,  an4  a  bowl 
of  refreshing  beverage  prepared  from  the  cocoa  fruit, 
with  which  we  heartily  regaled  ourselves.  We  then 
bade  our  entertainer  and  his  pretty  daughters  "  adeos," 
and  proceeded  back  towards  the  Roscenia. 

As  we  were  sauntering  along  the  arched  avenues 
leading  through  the  forest,  and  listening  attentively  to 
the  notes  of  curious  birds,  we  heard  a  loud  chattering  in 
one  of  the  trees  over  our  heads.  Looking  upwards,  we 
perceived  two  large  monkeys  on  the  very  top  of  a  pro- 
digiously tall  tree.  No  sooner  did  the  animals  see  us 
than  they  hid  themselves  so  completely  in  the  thick 
foliage  that  it  was  impossible  for  us  to  discern  them  at 
all.  We  fired  several  shots  up  into  the  tree,  but  with- 
out any  manifest   eftect.       At  last    our   Indian   guide, 


415502 


38 


perceiving  that  all  other  means  would  be  useless,  canie 
to  the  deliberate  determination  of  climbing  the  tree. 
Encircling  the  trunk,  like  the  folds  of  a  serpent,  was  an 
enormous  winding  vine,  which  ran  up  into  the  topmost 
branches.  This  species  of  vine  has  been  called  by 
travellers,  "  the  monkey's  ladder."  Having  stripped  to 
the  buff,  Joaquim  took  my  double-barrelled  gun  in  his 
band,  and  by  means  of  the  "  ladder  "  began  to  ascend 
the  tree  with  the  ease  and  agihty  of  a  squirrel.  We 
watched  his  progress  with  the  greatest  anxiety,  for  it 
appeared  to  us  an  experiment  hazardous  in  the  extreme ; 
but  he  bravely  and  nimbly  continued  his  dangerous 
ascent,  and  finally  waved  his  hand  in  triumph  from  the 
summit  of  the  lofty  tree.  New  difficulties  now  beset 
him, — the  branches  were  so  closely  matted  together  that 
he  was  severely  scratched  by  their  sharp  points,  and  it 
was  some  time  before  he  could  get  himself  and  gun  in 
manageable  order  for  attacking  the  garrulous  animals. 
Succeeding  in  securing  a  safe  position  in  a  notch  of  the 
tree,  he  got  a  glimpse  of  the  monkeys,  away  out  on  the 
extremity  of  a  long  branch,  almost  hid  from  view  by  the 
thickness  of  the  leaves.  Raising  his  gun,  he  took  steady 
aim,  and  two  startling  reports,  quickly  succeeding  each 
other,  broke  suddenly  upon  the  stillness  of  the  forest. 
The  two  monkeys  fell,  with  a  heavy  crash,  lifeless  to  the 
ground.  They  were  large  specimens,  of  a  silvery-grey 
color.     Having  picked  them  up,  we  waited  until  Joaquim 


PARA.  89 

had  descended  from  the  tree,  and  then  proceeded  on 
our  way. 

It  was  mid-day  when  we  reached  Nazere,  Eagerly 
we  sought  the  cool  shades  of  the  Roscenia,  and  in  the 
evening  refreshed  ourselves  with  a  delicious  bath  in  a 
neighboring  stream. 


40  PARA. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Old  Vincenti  and  Maria. — Castigation  of  a  Woman. — Visitors  at 
Nazere. — Our  Neighbors. — Feathered  Companions. — Tame 
Macaw. — Depredation  of  the  Ants. — A  nocturnal  Visit  from 
them. — The  Largo  by  Moonlight. 

There  was  a  venerable  old  slave  at  the  Roscenia,  by  the 
name  of  Vincenti,  who  made  himself  very  useful  to  us, 
and  added  considerably  to  our  amusement,  by  his 
eccentricities  and  peculiarities.  He  had  lived  on  the 
place  for  more  than  thirty  years,  and  was  well  acquainted 
with  every  variety  of  bird,  insect,  and  reptile  that  was 
to  be  found  in  its  vicinity.  Scarcely  a  day  passed  by 
without  his  bringing  us  several  specimens  of  lizards, 
beetles,  or  centipedes.  The  latter  were  quite  numerous 
in  the  garden ;  and  I  remember  one  evening  that  we 
caught  two  of  these  many-legged  "  monsters  "  crawling 
leisurely  about  the  floor  of  our  sleeping  apartment.  They 
were  at  least  eight  inches  in  length,  and  as  ugly-looking 
fellows  of  the  kind  as  I  ever  saw.  We  succeeded  in 
capturing  them  by  the  aid  of  a  long  pair  of  pincers,  and 
in  putting  them  alive  into  a  bottle  of  alcohol  for  preserva- 
tion ;  and  we  have  them  to  this  day  in  our  cabinet, 
"  spiritual "  mementos  of  the  past. 


PARA.  41 

But,  to  proceed.  It  seems  that  old  Vincenti,  notwith- 
standing his  age  and  manifold  infirmities,  had  some  of 
the  fire  of  youth  still  burning  in  his  veins.  Living  with 
him  was  a  very  good-looking  mulatto  woman,  by  the 
name  of  Maria,  who  could  not  have  been  more  than 
twenty-five  years  of  age,  while  Vincenti  himself  had  seen 
above  sixty.  How  the  old  fellow  ever  prevailed  on  her, 
a  free  woman,  to  live  with  him,  will  ever  remain  to  us  a 
sealed  mystery.  Although  they  had  never  been  married, 
yet  no  husband  was  ever  more  affectionate  than  Vincenti, 
or  wife  more  loving  than  Maria.  The  latter  was  daily 
accustomed  to  go  to  the  city  for  provisions,  and  some- 
times she  took  her  place  among  the  fruit-vendors  of  the 
market.  One  day,  however,  she  did  not  return  to  the 
Roscenia.  Vincenti  was  quite  uneasy,  and  thought 
something  serious  must  have  happened.  A  week  passed 
by  ;  but  still  no  news  from  Maria.  At  length,  dreadful 
suspicions  began  to  flash  over  old  Vincenti,  and  fierce 
jealousy  to  agitate  his  mind.  One  morning,  as  we  were 
sipping  our  coftee  under  the  veranda,  the  shrieks  of  a 
woman,  as  if  in  distress,  fell  upon  our  ears.  Suspecting 
the  cause,  we  rushed  immediately  to  the  little  dwelling 
of  Vincenti,  and  there  found  him,  as  we  had  anticipated, 
beating  Maria,  his  prodigal  mistress,  in  a  most  unmerci- 
ful manner.  He  was  furious  with  anger ;  but  we 
expostulated  with  him,  and  having  prevailed  on  him  to 
discontinue  the  castigation,  we  succeeded  in  efiecting  a 
reconciliation  between  the  parties, — and  all  this  with  a 


42  PARA, 

scanty  knowledge  of  the  language,  rendered  intelligible 
only  by  the  pantomime  with  which  we  accompanied  it. 
la  a  few  hours  Vincenti  and  his  buxom  consort  were 
again  in  fellowship  with  each  other,  and  as  happy  and 
contented  as  in  days  of  yore.  Thus  do  pleasant  calms 
succeed  the  severest  storms  ! 

The  visitors  to  Nazere  were  numerous,  and  we  had  no 
lack  of  society.  At  the  close  of  every  day  our  hunters 
would  come  in,  bringing  with  them  singular  animals  and 
beautiful  birds,  which  they  had  killed  in  the  forest. 
Frequently  they  would  spend  the  evening  with  us,  giving 
us  an  account  of  the  wonders  and  curiosities  of  the 
surrounding  wild  woods.  On  Sundays  many  persons 
generally  came  out  from  the  city,  and  the  military 
paraded  on  the  Largo  in  front  of  the  Roscenia.  Our 
neighbors  were  mostly  blacks  and  Indians.  Among  the 
latter,  two  pretty  maids,  Mariquinha  and  Lorena,  were 
our  especial  favorites.  These  were  young  and  charming 
Mamelukes,  or  half-breeds,  with  dark  eyes,  luxuriant  hair, 
and  light-olive  complexions.  To  tell  the  truth,  I  believe 
we  were  principally  indebted  to  these  lovely  damsels 
for  the  rapid  proficiency  which  we  made  in  the 
language. 

But  I  must  not  forget  to  mention  the  feathered  com- 
panions who  shared  with  us  the  pleasures  of  Nazere. 
These  consisted  of  several  domesticated  parrots,  a  pair  of 
roseate  spoonbills,  and  a  solitary  macaw.  The  last-named 
bird  was  a  very  gorgeous  fellow,  with   a  handsome   tail, 


43 


above  two  feet  in  length,  beautifully  marked  with  blue 
and  red.  During  the  day  he  was  accustomed  to  spend 
many  of  the  hours  in  rambling  through  the  embowered 
avenues  of  the  garden,  and  in  climbing  successively  the 
different  fruit-trees,  which  were  drooping  with  the  weight 
of  their  red  and  yellow  fruit.  But,  whenever  he  heard 
our  voices  calling  him,  lie  instantly  abandoned  the 
sweetest  orange  or  most  delicious  guava,  to  make  his 
appearance  before  us.  He  was  an  awkward  bird  in  his 
motions,  and  occasioned  us  a  great  deal  of  merriment. 
It  was  enough  to  disturb  the  gravity  of  a  confirmed 
misanthrope  to  see  our  macaw  perambulating  by  himself 
around  the  piazza  of  Nazere. 

Whenever  the  bell  rang  for  either  breakfjist  or  dinner, 
Mr.  Macaw  immediately  wended  his  way  to  the  banquet- 
table,  and  having  perched  himself  upon  the  back  of  one 
of  the  chairs,  waited  patiently  for  the  arrival  of  us — his 
humble  servants.  In  justice  to  his  memory,  be  it  said, 
that  he  always  conducted  himself  with  perfect  decorum 
while  at  table,  and  never  on  any  occasion  made  any  sud- 
den onslaught  upon  the  viands  which  were  laid  out 
in  tempting  array  before  him. 

One  day  an  Indian  brought  us  a  live  coral  snake,  the 
fangs  of  which  had  been  carefully  extracted.  The  reptile 
was  about  three  feet  in  length,  and  was  regularly  banded 
with  alternate  rings  of  black,  scarlet,  and  yellow.  If  the 
idea  of  "  beautiful"  can  be  associated  with  a  snake,  then 
did  this  one  well  deserve  the  qualification,  for  a  more 


44  PARA. 

striking  combination  of  colors  I  think  I  never  saw.  For 
the  sake  of  security,  we  put  the  animal  in  a  small 
wooden  box,  and  placed  it  in  one  of  the  corners  of 
the  room  where  we  slept.  One  night  while  we  were 
asleep,  the  animal  forced  off  the  top  of  the  box  in  which 
he  was  confined,  and,  in  traveUing  about,  at  last  found 
bis  way  into  the  cook's  room.  Aroused  by  her  screams, 
we  hastened  to  her  apartment  and  soon  discovered 
the  cause  of  her  alarm.  But  the  animal  had  escaped 
through  a  crevice  in  the  floor,  and  we  never  saw  his 
snakeship  again. 

We  experienced  a  great  deal  of  annoyance  from 
the  ants  at  Nazere.  TJiese  insects  swarm  in  myriads  in 
the  forest,  and  may  be  seen  crawling  on  the  ground 
wherever  you  may  happen  to  be.  They  subserve  a  very 
useful  purpose  in  the  wise  economy  of  nature,  by  pre- 
venting the  natural  decay  and  putrefaction  of  vegetable 
matter,  so  particularly  dangerous  in  tropical  regions ;  but 
at  the  same  time  they  are  a  serious  drawback  to  the 
prosecution  of  agricultural  pursuits  in  the  torrid  zone. 
Flourishing  plantations  are  sometimes  entirely  destroyed 
by  these  insects,  and  we  ourselves  have  seen  a  beautiful 
orange  tree  one  day  blooming  in  the  greatest  luxuriance, 
and  on  the  next  perfectly  leafless  and  bare  ! 

Nothing  is  more  interesting  than  to  see  an  army 
of  ants  engaged  in  divesting  a  tree  of  its  foliage.  In 
doing  so,  they  manifest  an  intuitive  system  and  order 
which  is  truly  surprising.     A  regular  file  is  continually 


ascending  on  one  side  of  the  trunk,  while  another  is 
descending  on  the  opposite  side,  each  one  of  the  ants 
bearing  a  piece  of  a  leaf  of  the  size  of  a  sixpence  in 
his  mouth.  A  large  number  appear  to  be  stationed 
among  the  upper  branches,  for  the  sole  purpose  of  biting 
off  the  stems  of  the  leaves,  and  thus  causing  them  to  fall 
to  the  ground.  At  the  foot  of  the  tree  is  another  depart- 
ment, whose  business  is  evidently  that  of  cutting  the  fallen 
leaves  into  small  pieces  for  transportation.  A  long 
procession  is  kept  constantly  marcbing,  laden  with  the 
leaves. 

Mr.  Kidder  states  that  some  years  ago  the  ants  entered 
one  of  the  convents  at  Maranham,  who  not  only  devoured 
the  drapery  of  the  altars,  but  also  descended  into  the 
graves  beneath  the  floor  and  brought  up  several  small 
pieces  of  linen  from  the  shrouds  of  the  dead  ;  for  this 
offence  the  friars  commenced  an  ecclesiastical  prosecu- 
tion, the  result  of  which,  however,  we  did  not  ascertain. 
Mr.  Southey  says,  in  relation  to  these  destructive  insects, 
"that  having  been  convicted  in  a  similar  suit  at  the 
Franciscan  convent  at  Avignon,  they  were  not  only 
excommunicated  from  the  Roman  Catholic  church,  but 
were  sentenced  by  the  friars  to  a  place  of  removal  within 
three  days,  to  a  place  assigned  them  in  the  centre  of  the 
earth.  The  canonical  account  gravely  adds,  that  the  ants 
obeyed,  and  carried  away  all  their  young  and  all  their 
stores !" 

Concerning  the  ants,  however,  we  have  a  story  of  our 


46 


own  to  tell.  The  occurrence  took  place  at  Nazere, 
and  was  in  this  wise.  One  night  while  indulging  in 
delightful  dreams,  I  was  suddenly  awakened  by  my  amia- 
ble companion,  who  affirmed  that  something  was  biting 
him  severely — he  knew  not  what. 

In  the  deep  silence  of  our  lonely  apartment  we 
heard  distinctly  a  sound  like  that  of  a  continual 
dl-opping  upon  the  floor.  We  were  uncertain  from 
what  it  proceeded,  but  I  more  than  half  suspected  the 
true  cause,  but  said  nothing  to  my  companion ;  on 
the  contrary,  I  even  endeavored  to  convince  him  that  the 
biting  of  which  he  complained  was  only  imaginary.  The 
reality,  however,  of  his  sufferings  made  him  proof  against 
any  such  conviction,  and  he  forthwith  arose  and  lighted 
a  lamp.  Its  glimmering  rays  shed  a  feeble  light  over 
the  apartment,  but  sufficient  to  disclose  a  spectacle  such 
as  we  hope  never  to  see  again.  The  floor  itself  was 
literally  black  with  ants  ;  and  our  clothes,  which  were 
hanging  on  a  line  stretched  across  the  room,  were  alive 
with  them.  It  was  in  vain  for  us  to  attempt  to  remove 
them,  so  we  removed  ourselves,  and  spent  the  remainder 
of  the  night  swinging  in  our  hammocks  under  the 
veranda  1 

Green  and  golden  hued  lizards  were  also  numerous  at 
the  Koscenia,  and  we  frequently  saw  them  in  the  midst 
of  the  walk,  basking  in  the  warm  sunshine,  their  glow- 
ing tints  rivalling  in  lustre  the  bright  enamel  of  the 
flowers.     They  were  innocent  creatures,  and  so  exceed- 


47 


ingly  timid  that  we  found  it  almost  impossible  to  catch 
them  alive. 

On  one  side  of  the  entrance  gate  of  the  garden,  was  a 
small  "  summer  house,"  from  which  an  excellent  view  of 
the  Largo  was  presented.  Nothing  could  exceed  the 
romantic  beauty  of  this  extensive  plot  of  ground  by  moon- 
light !  A.  wild  forest  rises  up  around,  while  tall  palms 
stand  like  faithful  sentinels  watching  over  the  lovely 
scene  !  The  little  church,  solitary  and  lone,  fills  the  mind 
of  the  beholder  with  solemn  associations  ;  the  low  dwell- 
ings of  the  natives,  shaded  by  overhanging  trees,  add  to 
the  strangeness  of  the  landscape  ;  and  the  "  southern 
cross,"  gleaming  in  the  clear  starry  firmament  above, 
brings  to  mind  the  immense  distance  of  home,  and 
impresses  the  wanderer  with  emotions  of  awe  and  subli- 
mity such  as  no  pen  can  adequately  describe  ! 


48  PARA. 


CHAPTER    V. 

Life  at  Nazere. — Our  favorite  hunter,  Joaquim. — The  Garden  by 
Moonlight. — The  Climate. — Its  Purity  and  Healthfulness. — 
The  wet  and  d  ry  Seasons. — A  caterwauling  Serenader. — An 
Alarm. — An  extraordinary  Visit. — Our  Departure  from 
Nazere. 

Noiselessly  and  quickly  the  hours  sped  on  ! — weeks 
rapidly  elapsed! — and  still  we  Hngered  amid  the  de- 
lightful shades  of  Nazere  ! 

Hunting  was  our  princijjal  amusement,  and  hardly  a 
day  passed  by  without  our  engaging  in  it.  Many  were 
the  rich  plumaged  birds  that  we  killed,  while  wandering 
amid  their  own  beautiful  haunts  ;  many  the  curious 
animals  that  met  with  a  speedy  death  from  our  trusty 
guns ;  and  by  no  means  few  the  number  of  bright-hued 
serpents  and  horrible  looking  reptiles  that  we  caught 
crawling  through  the  tall  grass,  or  stealing  beneath  the 
thick  shrubbery  of  the  forest ! 

Our  excursions  were  always  undertaken  early  in  the 
morning.  Before  the  sun  had  shed  his  first  beams  over 
the  enchanting  scenery  of  the  garden,  we  were  always  up 
and  accoutred  for  our  daily  hunt. 


49 


Our  Indian  hunter,  Joaquira,  generally  accompanied 
us,  and  grateful  are  we  to  him  for  the  many  sporting 
tactics  into  which  he  initiated  us,  and  for  the  possession 
of  many  splendid  and  rare  birds,  which  we  should  not 
probably  have  procured  without  his  assistance.  He  was 
quite  young,  being  not  more  than  nineteen  or  twenty 
years  of  age,  of  light  olive  complexion,  a  perfect  Apollo 
in  form,  and  a  model  of  a  sportsman  in  every  sense  of 
the  word.  The  slightest  sound  never  failed  to  catch  his 
attentive  ear — in  a  moment  he  knew  from  what  kind  of 
a  bird  or  animal  it  proceeded,  and  prepared  himself  for 
instantaneous  action.  So  delicately  would  he  move 
onward  towards  his  prey,  scarcely  touching  the  ground 
with  his  uncovered  feet ;  crouching  so  skilfully  beneath 
the  clustering  bushes  as  hardly  to  occasion  the  vibration 
of  a  single  leaf;  and  without  any  intimation  being  given 
to  the  unfortunate  bird  or  animal  of  his  approach; 
having  once  fixed  his  eye  upon  his  victim,  escape  was 
useless — death  was  certain  !  Raising  his  light  flint-lock 
gun  with  quickness  to  his  eye,  his  aim  was  sure,  and'the 
startling  report  which  followed  was  the  inevitable  death- 
knell  of  his  prey. 

While  in  the  forest,  Joaquim  wore  no  clothing  save»a 
pair  of  coarse  pantaloons — a  common  powder-horn  wa§ 
strung  around  his  symmetrical  neck — a  small  pouch  of 
shot  was  suspended  from  his  waist ;  in  his  right  hand 
was  his  long  knife,  in  his  left  his  faithful  gun,  and  this 
vf_as  his  entire  equipment. 


50 


We  seldom  spent  more  th;ui  one  or  two  iioiirs  in  the 
woods  in  the  morning  ;  returning  to  the  Koscenia,  we 
regaled  ourselves  with  an  excellent  breakfast  under  the 
veranda,  rendered  the  more  delectable  from  the  exercise 
we  had  taken,  and  the  circumstances  under  which  we 
despatched  it. 

After  this  meal,  the  next  operation  was  to  skin  and 
preserve  the  best  specimens  of  the  gay-plumaged  birds 
we  had  killed  in  the  forest.  For  this  purpose,  my 
amiable  companion  was  wont  to  seat  himself  at  a  long 
table,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  building,  where  he 
prepared  the  specimens  with  the  skill  of  an  experienced 
artist.  The  bodies  were  first  taken  out,  a  little  arsenic 
then  sprinkled  on  the  surface  of  the  skin,  and,  lastly, 
the  skins  were  filled  out  with  cotton  to  their  natural  size, 
then  put  into  proper  shape  and  placed  on  a  board,  in  an 
exposed  situation,  to  dry. 

A  paradise,  indeed,  was  the  Roscenia  de  Nazere  bj 
moonhght ! — a  second  Eden  ! — but  alas  !  without  an 
Eve  !  So  numerous  were  the  trees  of  the  garde m  that 
they  constituted  a  fairy-like  grove,  and  so  thickly  matted 
together  were  the  branches  overhead  that  the  «ioon  beams 
fell  like  a  shower  of  gold  through  the  foliage.  The 
bright  birds  might  be  heard  chanting  their  vespere 
among  the  trees,  while  hundreds  of  singing  insects  were 
buzzing  in  every  bush.  The  air  itself  was  redolent  with 
the  sweetest  perfume,  and  we,  perhaps,  were  enjoying  the 
lovely  evening  under  the  veranda  of  the  cottage  either 


51 


in  talking  with  our  hunters,  or  the  pretty  liidiitii  maids, 
who  haunted  with  their  presence  the  flowery  shades  of 
our  beautiful  garden. 

All  our  moments  were  replete  with  enjoyment.  We 
were  quite  happy ! — and  why  should  we  not  be,  living 
together  in  such  a  romantic  and  charming  spot,  where 
the  flowers  bloomed  throughout  the  year,  and  where 
everything  appeared  to  be  animated  with  beauty, 
perfume,  and  song  ?  Besides,  the  climate  was  of  such 
exceeding  purity,  so  aromatic  with  the  incense  of  flowers, 
and  of  such  delicious  blandness,  that  it  was  truly  a 
luxury  to  breathe  it.  Consumption,  with  all  her 
kindred  and  accompanying  evils,  has  never,  as  yet, 
invaded  this  mild  atmosphere  ;  and  more  than  this,  even 
coughs  and  common  colds  are  almost  entirely  unknown. 
All  diseases  which  owe  their  origin  to  changes  of 
temperature  cannot  be  engendered  here,  for  the  variation 
does  not  amount  to  more  than  twenty  degrees  from  the 
commencement  of  the  year  to  its  close  ;  ninety  degrees 
being  the  maximum,  and  seventy  the  minimum  tem- 
perature, according  to  just  and  careful  experiments  that 
have  been  made  with  the  thermometer. 

Without  reference  to  temperature,  the  year  is,  in  the 
province  of  Para,  about  equally  divided  into  two  seasons, 
namely,  the  wet  and  dry.  The  former  commences 
about  the  middle  of  December  and  may  be  said  to 
extend  to  the  middle  of  June,  although  from  the  first  of 
March  the  rains  gradually  decrease.     Throughout  the 


62 


rainy  season  severe  showers  fall  daily,  seldom  occurring, 
however,  before  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  They  are 
usually  accompanied  by  bright  lightning  and  terrific 
thunder,  and  continue  from  one  to  three  hours.  The 
rain  comes  down  with  such  extraordinary  violence,  and 
in  such  great  quantities,  that  one  who  had  never 
witnessed  a  storm  in  the  tropics,  would  be  astonished 
beyond  measure,  and  filled  with  emotions  of  wonder,  if 
not  of  sublimity. 

During  the  period  extending  from  the  middle  of  June 
to  the  middle  of  December,  and  which  has  been  called 
"  the  dry  season,"  comparatively  little  rain  falls  in  the  city, 
while  in  some  of  the  neighboring  islands  it  hardly  falls 
at  all.  The  reason  why  the  rains  are  more  frequent  in 
the  city  is  undoubtedly  owing  to  its  superior  elevation, 
as  well  as  its  location  near  the  mouths  of  several  tributary 
rivers.  Even  on  the  islands,  where  showers  fall  so 
seldom,  vegetation  flourishes  most  luxuriantly,  the 
copious  dews  affording  that  nourishment  to  the 
plants  and  flowers  which  the  clouds  of  heaven  deny 
them. 

The  rainy  season  had  just  set  in  when  we  arrived  at 
Nazere.  On  account  of  the  sandy  state  of  the  soil,  we 
could  not  have  established  ourselves  at  a  better  place  ; 
for  here,  one  hour  of  sunshine  never  failed  to  erase  all 
traces  of  the  heaviest  rains. 

No  danger  need  be  apprehended  from  sleeping  in  the 
open  air  in  this  deUcious  climate  at  any  period  of  the 


53 


vear.  Indeed,  we  ourselves  have  frequently  passed  the 
nio'ht  in  our  hammocks,  swung  under  the  commodious 
veranda  of  the  cottage  at  the  Roscenia,  without  sustain- 
ing the  slightest  injury. 

Our  slumbers  at  Naze  re  were  sound  and  refreshing. 
True,  we  slept  little  for  the  first  few  nights,  owing  to  the 
nocturnal  serenades  of  an  old  tomcat ;  but  we  doubt 
whether  anybody,  of  any  nerves  at  all,  could  have  slept 
better  under  similar  circumstances.  We  really  had 
some  thoughts  of  resorting  to  narcotics  for  rehef !  We 
were  provoked,  irritated,  and  at  last  became  desperate. 

"That  villanous  cat  shall  die,"  exclaimed  J.,  in  a 
passion. 

"  What,  with  all  his  sins  on  his  head  !"  said  I ;  "  pray, 
give  him  some  little  time  for  repentance  !" 

"  Xot  a  single  day,  by  heaven  !"  replied  my  com- 
panion ;  "  he  shall  die  to-morrow  !" 

On  the  following  morning  we  observed  the  doomed 
grimalkin  quietly  reposing  on  a  little  grassy  knoll  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  house.  Now  was  the  time  !  But 
feeling  some  reluctance  to  be  the  perpetrators  of  the 
murderous  deed  ourselves,  we  called  upon  Joaquim  to 
do  the  business  for  us. 

He  willingly  assented.  Having  loaded  his  gun,  he 
stationed  himself  within  a  suitable  distance,  took  delibe- 
rate aim,  and  fired.  A  horrible  shriek — most  heart- 
rending and  awful — immediately  broke  upon  our  ears. 
But  when  the  smoke  had  cleared  away,  no  cat,  living  or 


dead,  was  to  be  seen.     He  had  vanished  in  the  adjacent 
thicket. 

Two  weeks  passed  by,  and  our  nights  continued  to  be 
undisturbed.  We  felt  certain  that  our  tormentor  was 
numbered  among  the  dead.  But  what  was  our  astonish- 
ment one  morning,  while  we  were  seated  under  the 
veranda,  to  see  this  diabolical  cat  enter  the  gateway 
before  us,  and  advance  with  a  downcast,  saddened,  and 
repentant  air,  up  towards  the  house. 

"  Verily,"  said  J.,  "  I  have  always  heard  that  a  cat  had 
nine  hves,  now  I  beheve  it." 

We  were  slightly  infuriated  at  first,  and  determined 
to  make  one  more  effort  to  rid  ourselves  of  this  cater- 
wauling monster,  but  as  soon  as  our  wrath  had  some- 
what abated,  we  came  to  the  merciful  conclusion  of 
"  putting  him  on  his  good  behavior "  for  a  "  little 
season,"  and,  strange  to  say,  he  never  serenaded  us 
again. 

A^little  circumstance  occurred  one  evening  that  gave 
us  some  alarm.  My  companion  had  gone  to  the  city, 
andjl^was  left  entirely  alone  at  the  Roscenia.  While 
reading  a  book  under  the  veranda,  by  the  feeble  light 
of  a  single  lamp,  I  was  suddenly  addressed  by  a  strange 
voice,  and  looking  up,  I  beheld  a  black  fellow  that  I  had 
never  seen  before,  standing  at  my  elbow. 

"  Senhor,"  said  he,  "  load  your  gun,  and  lock  up  the 
house,  for  there  are  robbers  concealed  in  the  garden." 

Saying  this,  he  disappeared  so  quickly  that  I  did  not 


56 


hiive  time  to  make  any  iimuirie.s  of  liim  concerning  his 
startling  narration.  Whether  to  believe  the  black  or  not 
I  hardly  knew,  bvit  as  I  could  not  imagine  any  other 
motive  to  have  prompted  him  than  a  desire  to  put  us  oa 
our  guard,  it  appeared  probable  that  he  had  given 
correct  information.  I  therefore  loaded  my  "  revolver," 
and  with  it  in  one  hand,  and  my  sharp  wood-knife  in 
the  other,  I  anxiously  awaited  the  arrival  of  my  com- 
panion. It  was  about  midnight  when  he  reached  the 
Roscenia,  and  of  course  he  was  much  surprised  when  I 
had  related  to  him  all  that  had  taken  place. 

The  night  passed  by — no  robbers  made  their  appear- 
ance— and  I  never  afterwards  saw  the  black  who  had  ia 
such  a  mysterious  manner  warned  me  of  impending 
danger.  This  was  the  only  incident  that  occasioned  us 
the  slightest  uneasiness  during  our  entire  stay  at  the 
Roscenia — moreover,  we  did  not  meet  with  a  single 
accident. 

Sunday  was  the  most  noisy  day  of  the  week  with  us. 
On  this  day  we  had  numerous  visitors  from  the  city; 
some  of  whom  came  out  to  the  Roscenia  for  sporting 
purposes,  keeping  up  a  continual  tiring  in  the  garden 
from  morning  until  night.  There  is  no  day  set  apart  for 
religious  purposes  in  Para.  Sunday  is  a  perfect  holiday, 
and  is  more  particularly  mark<_'d  by  revelry  and  dissipa- 
tion than  by  morality  and  sacred  observances.  Every 
Sabbath  morning  the  Largo  de  Nazere  was  the  scene  of 
a  military  display,  performed  by  a  brilhant  cavalcade  of 


56 


gaily-dressed  officers  and  mounted  citizens.  After  going 
through  witli  fi  series  of  military  evolutions  on  the  largo, 
they  often  stopped  at  the  Roscenia,  for  the  purpose  of 
refreshing  themselves  with  fruit  and  wine.  They  were  a 
gay  and  apparently  happy  set  of  fellows,  very  gentle- 
manly in  their  bearing,  and  animated  and  cheerful  in 
conversation. 

Politeness  to  strangers  is  one  of  the  striking  character- 
istics not  only  of  the  people  of  Para,  but  of  the  Portu- 
guese in  general.  Almost  everybody  you  meet  in 
the  street,  provided  you  have  a  gentlemanly  appearance, 
will  offer  you  the  deference  of  taking  off  his  hat,  and  at 
the  same  time  saluting  you  with  the  popular  expression, 
Viva,  senhor !  or  "  Long  live,  sir !"  Besides  this,  the 
Brazihans  are  more  hospitable  and  social  than  they  have 
ever  had  credit  for  in  the  books  of  travellers.  The  rea- 
son, probably,  why  they  have  been  considered  so  distant 
and  reserved  in  their  manners  towards  foreigners,  is  on 
account  of  their  general  ignorance  of  all  languages  but 
their  own.  Those  at  Para  who  could  speak  English  we 
found  to  be  exceedingly  sociable  and  friendly,  and  dis- 
posed to  render  us  any  assistance  we  desired. 

Having  been  at  Nazere  nearly  two  months,  we  began 
to  think  seriously  of  taking  our  departure.  We  had 
made  a  collection  of  almost  all  the  birds  and  animals 
to  be  found  in  its  vicinty,  besides  many  extraordi- 
nary insects  and  curious  shells.  Need  it  be  said,  then, 
that  we  had  become  exceedingly  attached  to  the  Ros- 


51 


cenia,  and  looked  forward  to  the  period  of  leaving  it  with 
a  kind  of  melancholy  reluctance  mingled  with  sadness 
and  gloom. 

A  few  days  before  our  departure  we  were  honored 
with  a  visit  of  so  singular  a  character  that  we  cannot  for- 
bear giving  the  reader  a  description  of  it.  It  was  quite 
early  one  morning  that  a  large  and  motley  assemblage  of 
individuals  halted  before  the  gateway  of  the  Roscenia. 
What  they  were,  or  for  what  purpose  they  came,  we 
could  not  surmise.  They  were  so  ceremonious  as  to  send 
a  young  man  in  advance  to  solicit  permission  for  them  to 
enter.  We  did  not  hesitate  to  grant  the  request,  and 
soon  discovered  that  our  worthy  visitors  constituted 
nothing  less  than  a  religious  body,  who  had  come  out 
to  the  Largo  de  Nazere  in  order  to  procure  donations 
for  the  benefit  of  the  Roman  Catholic  church — a  small 
pecuniary  offering  being  expected  from  everybody. 

The  whole  number  of  persons  who  entered  the  Ros- 
cenia could  not  have  been  less  than  forty  or  fifty, — of 
which  number  at  least  one  half  were  women  and  chil- 
dren. In  front  of  all  marched  half-a-dozen  priests  or 
padres,  dressed  in  flowing  scarlet  gowns,  bearing  large 
sun-shades  of  dazzling  red  silk,  suspended  over  their 
heads.  After  these  came  a  group  of  bright-eyed  dam- 
sels, crowned  with  garlands  of  flowers,  and  profusely 
decorated  with  golden  chains  and  glittering  trinkets. 
In  the  rear  of  all  were  a  number  of  young  children 
sporting  with  each  other  in  all  the  freedom  of  inno- 
3* 


58  PARA. 

cence  and  nudity  combined.  With  huge  bouquets  of 
splendid  flowers  in  their  hands,  they  looked  like  a 
band  of  little  Cupids  about  to  render  homage  at  the 
court  of  Flora. 

One  of  the  damsels  bearing  a  handsomely-carved 
salver  of  solid  silver,  presented  it  to  us  for  the  pur- 
pose of  receiving  our  donations.  Unfortunately  v?e 
had  but  very  little  of  the  circulating  medium  on  hand 
— merely  a  few  vintens — all  of  which  we  threw  at 
once  upon  the  silver  plate.  Our  pecuniary  resources 
being  now  completely  exhausted,  judge  of  our  con- 
sternation when  the  plate  was  banded  to  us  a  second 
time  for  further  contributions. 

I  now  threw  a  bunch  of  cigars  on  the  plate,  and 
the  result  was  just  such  as  I  had  anticipated.  Instead 
of  taking  the  slightest  offence  at  what  I  had  done, 
they  seized  the  cigars  with  eagerness,  and  I  was 
obliged  to  distribute  all  I  had  in  the  house  among 
them,  before  they  would  be  satisfied.  The  cigars  being 
exhausted,  wine  was  asked  for,  with  which  we  pro- 
ceeded to  supply  them.  But,  alas !  what  were  the 
two  gallons  of  port  we  had  j^urchased  the  day  before 
towards  satisfying  such  a  thirsty  crowd  ? 

Before  taking  leave  of  us,  a  sweet  little  maiden  handed 
me  a  miniature  image  of  some  one  of  the  favorite 
saints,  which  she  desired  me  to  kiss.  I  took  the  image, 
and  proceeded  to  do  so  as  she  requested ;  but  by  some 
unaccountable  mistake  I  missed  the  image,    and   im- 


39 


pressed  a  warm  kiss  upon  the  poutinfj  lips  of  tlie 
3'oiitht'ul  damsel — a  sacrilege,  indeed !  fur  which  I 
atoned  by  kissing  the  image  many  times !  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  the  reader  will  be  as  lenient  and  forc^iv- 
ing  towards  the  writer  for  this  misdeed  as  was  the 
pretty  maiden  herself. 

Shortly  after  this  the  whole  party  withdre<  with 
many  thanks  and  benedictions,  leaving  us  in  a  most 
deplorable  condition  ;  all  our  provisions  being  eaten, 
our  wine  drunk,  and  our  cigars  smoked. 

We  were  sad,  indeed,  when  we  took  our  final  leave 
of  Nazere.  It  was  on  a  mild  and  sunny  afternoon, 
and  all  around  was  quiet  and  serene.  No  sounds  broke 
upon  the  stillness,  save  the  rustling  of  the  leaves,  the 
murmur  of  the  insects,  and  the  chattering  of  birds. 
Our  thouglits  harmonized  with  the  plaintiveness  of 
the  scene ;  for  we  remembered  that  we  were  relin- 
quishing for  ever  the  blissful  garden  where  we  had 
wliiled  away  so  many  pleasant  hours. 

Strolling  slowly  on  towards  the  city,  we  frequently 
stopped  for  a  few  moments  by  the  way,  to  exchange 
salutations  with  our  Indian  neighbors,  and  to  tender 
to  all  the  pretty  maidens  our  parting  adieux.  Joaquim 
accompanied  us  as  far  as  the  Largo  de  Palvora,  where, 
after  shaking  us  each  heartily  by  the  hand,  while  a 
tear  stood  in  his  noble  eye,  he  bade  us  farewell.  We 
were  (Extremely  sorry  to  lose  so  valuable  a  hunter,  and 
in    testimony  of  wir  esteem    and    appreciation   of  the 


60 


services  he  had  rendered  us,  we  presented  him  with 
a  single  barrelled  gun,  which  we  had  purchased  for 
him  in  the  city. 

It  was  near  sunset  when  we  arrived  at  Mr.  Camp- 
bell's house,  a  lofty  stone  dwelling,  with  balconies 
fronting  each  of  the  upper  windows.  Here  we  in- 
tended remaining  for  the  ensuing  week ;  at  the  expir- 
ation of  which  time  we  proposed  making  an  excur- 
sion to  Caripe,  a  neglected  though  beautiful  estate, 
situated  on  a  small  island  within  twenty  miles  of 
Para. 


61 


CHAPTER    VI. 

The  City. — Its  Appearance  and  Population. — State  of  Society. — 
The  Padres,  or  Priests. — Professional  Beggars. — The  Etiquette 
of  Dress. — "  Festa  de  Nazere." 
I 

A  VERY  strange-looking  city  is  Para,  with  its  low  white- 
washed dwellings  covered  with  earthenware  tiles ;  its 
lofty  commercial  buildings,  with  little  balconies  jutting 
out  towards  the  street ;  its  dark-walled  churches,  with 
their  towering  spires  ;  its  gardens,  teeming  with  all  the 
beauty  and  variety  of  tropical  vegetation,  and  its  swarthy 
inhabitants,  differing  as  much  in  their  complexions,  as 
the  birds  of  the  forest  vary  in  the  tints  of  their  plumage. 
As  no  regular  census  has  ever  been  taken  in  the  city, 
it  is  impossible  to  state  with  accuracy  the  amount  of  the 
population ;  the  number,  however,  cannot  be  less  than 
fifteen  thousand.  That  of  the  whole  province  has  been 
supposed  to  be  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand, 
including  the  blacks  and  Indians,  who  compose  by  far 
the  greater  part  of  this  number. 

The  chief  executive  of  the  province  is  termed  a 
"  presidente,"  and  receives  his  appointment  direct  from 
the  emperor. 


62 


In  the  selection  of  officials  no  regard  whatever  is  paid 
to  color.  The  president  himself  was  a. woolly-headed 
mulatto,  and,  not  only  that,  but  he  was  reputed  to  be 
the  son  of  a  padre ;  and,  as  the  2^o-d'>'^s  ^I'e  excluded 
from  matrimony  by  the  statutes,  his  genealogy  certainly 
cannot  be  of  the  most  honorable  character. 

All  are  obliged  to  do  military  duty  at  Para  ;  none  are 
exempted  from  this  service  but  padres  and  slaves  ;  and, 
as  the  duty  is  very  onerous,  it  becomes  quite  desirable  to 
assume  the  garb  of  a  priest.  Consequently,  it  is  not  so 
much  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  number  of  these  "  pious 
and  highly-favored  individuals "  in  the  city  alone 
amounts  to  several  hundreds. 

"  But  how,  under  heavens,  do  so  many  of  them  earn 
a  livelihood  ?"  methinks  I  hear  the  reader  exclaim. 
This,  doubtless,  would  be  difficult  indeed,  in  such  a 
heathen  community,  by  the  practice  of  the  principles  of 
religion  and  virtue  alone.  To  tell  the  truth,  they  do  not 
earn  their  living  by  the  2Jr(iclice,  but  by  the  "  practices  " 
of  their  profession.  Superstition  aids  them  in  the 
imposition  by  which  they  ensnare  the  unsuspecting 
natives,  and  wring  from  them  the  earnings  of  their 
industry  and  labor. 

The  most  profitable  branch  of  their  profession  is  that 
of  consecrating  small  stones,  shells,  and  other  articles  of 
trifling  value,  and  then  vending  them  to  the  natives  at 
enormous  sums,  as  sovereign  charms  against  certain 
diseases  or  evil  spirits.     We  noticed  that  every  black  or 


PARA.  63 

Indian  we  encountered  in  the  streets,  had  more  or  less 
of  these  baubles  strung  about  his  neck.  Even  Chico, 
our  invaluable  cook  at  Nazere,  had  at  least  a  dozen  of 
them,  for  which  she  had  paid  as  many  dollars,  and 
sincerely  believed  in  their  power  of  warding  off  the 
different  evils  for  which  they  were  severally  intended. 
Whenever  one  of  these  "  holy  trifles "  is  found  in  the 
streets,  it  is  carried  immediately  by  the  finder  to  oTie  of 
the  churches,  and  there  suspended  on  a  certain  door,  where 
the  original  owner  may,  in  his  search,  recover  it  again. 

The  churches  are  of  large  size,  and  constructed  of 
sohd  stone.  They  are  destitute  of  pews,  have  several 
richly  carved  altars,  and  are  profusely  ornamented  with 
pictures  and  gorgeously  dressed  images  of  the  saints. 
The  cathedral  is  one  of  the  largest  edifices  in  the  empire. 
It  has  two  steeples,  well  supplied  with  bells,  whose 
sonorous  chiming  may  be  heard  at  all  hours  of  the  day. 
The  president's  palace  is  also  a  stupendous  pile,  but  it 
displays  but  little  architectural  skill  or  taste  in  its 
construction.  It  was  built  more  than  a  century  ago, 
when  Portugal  was  looking  anxiously  forward  to  this 
province  as  the  seat  of  the  national  government  of  the 
empire. 

The  old  convents,  which  at  one  time  were  very 
numerous,  are  now  reduced  to  two  or  three  of  the 
Franciscan  order.  The  building  in  which  the  assembly 
of  deputies  hold  their  sessions,  was  once  a  convent  of  the 
Carmehtes.     These  deputies  are  chosen  by  the  people, 


64  PARA. 

but  all  of  their  acts,  however,  have  to   be  referred  to 
Eio  Janeiro  for  confirmation. 

On  account  of  the  revolutionary  spirit  of  the  people, 
a  large  militaiy  force  of  regular  troops  is  distributed 
throughout  the  province.  The  number  in  the  city  alone 
cannot  be  less  than  eight  hundred  or  a  thousand.  At  all 
the  important  posts  of  the  city,  such  as  the  palace,  cus- 
tom-Kouse,  and  arsenal,  guards  are  stationed,  who  may 
be  seen  walking  about  listlessly  during  the  day,  with 
huge  muskets  on  their  shoulders,  or  stretched  out  before 
the  doorway  itself,  in  a  state  of  half  intoxication  and 
repose.  On  a  certain  evening,  it  is  said,  that  as  an  ine- 
briated Yankee  sailor  was  perambulating  the  streets  of 
the  city,  serenading  the  inhabitants  as  he  reeled  along, 
he  was  suddenly  hailed  by  one  of  the  custom-house 
guards,  as  he  was  making  a  short  tack  to  carry  him- 
self past  that  establishment,  with  "  Quem  vai  la  ?" 
(who  goes  there?)  to  which  question  the  customary 
reply  is,  "  Amigo"  (a  friend).  Our  hero,  however,  not 
understanding  a  single  word  of  the  Portuguese  lan- 
guage, had  no  idea  of  the  interrogatory  that  had  been 
put  to  him  by  the  guard — in  fact  he  was  quite  indig- 
nant that  any  one  should  have  the  impertinence  to 
address  him  in  such  an  authoritative  manner,  and 
therefore  cried  out  in  a  stentorian  voice,  which  was 
audible  at  a  distance  of  several  hundred  yards — "You 

screaming  Portuguese  son  of  a  gun,  stop  your 

confounded  noise,  or  I'll  send  you  to ."     Perceiv- 


65 


ing  that  the  marine  was  somewhat  exhilarated,  and  not 
knowing  but  the  reply  he  had  made  was  to  the  effect 
that  he  did  not  understand  the  language,  he  was  per- 
mitted to  pass  on  without  any  further  molestation. 

The  Brazilians  are  noted  for  the  kindness  which 
they  exercise  towards  their  slaves,  and  this  is  parti- 
cularly the  case  at  Para.  They  are  here  treated  with 
extraordinary  clemency  by  their  masters,  and  but  little 
labor  comparatively  is  required  of  them.  Having  per- 
formed the  usual  amount  of  w-ork  that  is  assigned 
them,  they  are  allowed  the  residue  of  the  day  for  their 
own  special  advantage,  the  proceeds  of  which  go 
towards  purchasing  their  freedom.  Even  their  mas- 
ters remunerate  them  for  whatever  work  they  perform 
beygnd  that  regularly  allotted  them.  Instances  of 
singular  generosity  towards  the  slaves  occur  frequently 
at  Para.  A  Scotch  gentleman,  well  known  for  his 
liberality  and  many  good  qualities,  loaned  to  a  cer- 
tain slave  of  an  enterprising  turn  of  mind,  an  amount 
sufficient  to  purchase  the  freedom  of  himself  and 
foraily.  Godolphus  (for  this  was  the  name  of  tlie 
slave,)  was  a  noble  fellow,  and  as  much  esteemed  as 
any  one  could  be,  occupying  his  lowly  condition. 
Having  acquired  his  liberty,  a  new  coui-se  of  life 
opened  before  him.  By  dint  of  industry  and  perse- 
verance, he  finally  became  the  leader  of  a  large  company 
of  ganhadores,  and  began  to  accumulate  money  very 
rapidly.     For    a   black,   his  reputation   was  wonderfiil. 


66 


Whenever  a  number  of  men  were  required  to  load  a 
vessel  or  to  perform  any  oi)eration  which  called  for  the 
exercise  of  physical  strength,  the  apphcants  were  always 
referred  to  Godolphus,  who  furnished  immediately  what- 
ever number  of  men  might  be  desired.  Prosperity  and 
happiness  smiled  upon  him,  and  in  less  than  two 
years  he  paid  off  the  entire  sum  that  his  kind-hearted 
benefactor  had  loaned  him.  Godolphus  became  known 
and  respected  by  everybody  !  His  heart  bounded  with 
joy  I^for  he  was  released  from  servile  bondage  for  ever 
— he  was  a  slave  no  more ! 

The  beggars  of  Para  are  so  numerous  that  they 
may  be  said  to  constitute  a  distinct  class  of  society 
by  themselves.  On  account  of  their  great  numbers 
they  are  only  permitted  to  make  their  professional 
visits  on  Saturday.  On  this  day  the  streets  literally 
swarm  with  them.  Some  have  bandages  round  their 
heads ;  others  have  their  arms  suspended  in  slings ; 
while  many  are  afflicted  with  blindness,  and  divers 
other  maladies,  which  we  will  not  take  upon  our- 
selves to  mention. 

The  wealthier  people  are  disposed  to  be  charitable 
towards  these  poor  mendicants,  and  no  one  thinks  of 
refusing  them  a  weekly,  trifle.  Should  a  person  be  so 
unwise  as  to  do  so,  instead  of  a  blessing  and  a  score 
of  thanks,  he  would  probably  be  saluted  with  a  shower 
of  reproaches,  accompanied  with  imprecations  and  epi- 
thets of  a  highly  derogatory  character. 


U7 


Tho  blacks  of  Para  have  regular  features,  and  are 
in  some  instances  very  good  looking — the  niulattoes 
are  quite  comely — the  cafusas  (a  mixture  of  Indian 
and  black)  are  very  animated,  having  the  features  of 
the  former,  and  the  curly  hair  of  the  latter — the  Por- 
tuguese and  native  Brazilians  are  generally  pretty  ;  but 
to  our  taste,  the  Mamulukes  or  half-breed  Indian  girls, 
with  their  dark  eyes,  luxuriant  hair,  and  olive  com- 
plexions, were  decidedly  the  most  beautiful  and  interest- 
ing !  The  women  make  use  of  no  more  clothing  than 
is  absolutely  necessary  ;  and  the  children  of  both  sexes 
may  be  seen  running  about  the  streets  continually 
in  a  state  of  utter  nudity.  The  men,  on  ordinary 
occasions,  wear  white  pantaloons  and  frock  coats,  or 
blouses  of  the  same  material.  But  no  person  is  con- 
sidered in  full  dress,  unless  he  is  habited  in  black 
from  head  to  foot. 

Whenever  a  person  is  invited  to  a  select  dinner 
party,  it  is  always  expected  that  he  should  make  his 
appearance  in  a  coat  of  sable  cloth  ;  but,  immediately 
on  his  arrival,  he  is  invited  to  take  it  off,  and  offered 
one  of  fine  hnen  as  a  substitute.  This  custom  is 
founded  on  correct  principles,  and  always  meets  with 
the  entire  satisfaction  of  strangers.  The  less  restraint 
that  is  put  upon  a  person  in  the  mastication  of  a  meal, 
the  more  cheerful  and  animated  will  be  his  conversa- 
tion, the  more  pungent  his  wit,  the  more  hearty  his 
jokes,  and  the  more  perfect  and  satisfactory  his  digestion  ! 


68 


The  greater  portion  of  the  white  inhabitants  of  the 
city  are  Portuguese ;  and  their  language  is  the  one 
that  is  principally,  if  not  universally  spoken  through- 
out the  province.  It  is  soft  and  musical,  and  is 
acquired  by  foreigners  -vvith  extraordinary  facility.  The 
English  and  American  residents  are  sufficient  in  num- 
ber to  form  an  excellent  society  in  themselves,  and 
are  all  extensively  engaged  in  commercial  transactions 
■with  their  respective  countries. 

The  festivals  at  Para  are  numerous,  and  appear  to  be 
well  suited  to  the  romantic  beauty  of  the  country,  and 
superstitious  character  of  the  inhabitants.  Almost 
every  other  day  is  the  anniversary  of  some  distin- 
guished saint,  and  is  celebrated  with  all  the  pomp 
and  magnificence  of  the  country.  The  bells  are  kept 
ringing  throughout  the  day— a  gorgeous  procession 
moves  through  the  narrow  streets,  and  the  evening  is 
consecrated  by  dancing,  fireworks,  and  illuminations. 

The  most  remarkable  holiday  season  that  is  observed 
in  the  province  is  termed  the  "  Festa  de  Nazere."  This 
great  festival  takes  place  either  in  September  or  October, 
according  to  the  state  of  the  moon,  the  light  of  that  lumi- 
nary being  indispensable  on  this  occasion.  The  usual 
period  of  its  continuance  is  about  two  weeks,  during 
which  time  the  stores  in  the  city  are  closed,  and  business 
almost  entirely  suspended.  All  take  part  in  the  festivi- 
ties, both  the  old  and  the  young,  the  rich  and  the  poor  ; 
and  for  weeks  previous  preparations  are  made,  and  nothing 


09 


is  talked  of  but  the  delights  and  pleasures  of  the  approach- 
ing season.  The  wealthy  contribute  large  sums  in  clean- 
ing and  beautifying  the  grounds,  and  in  erecting  tem- 
porary habitations  for  themselves  and  families  to  occupy 
during  the  period  of  the  feast. 

The  poor  expend  whatever  they  may  have  amassed  by 
months  of  untiring  labor,  in  purchasing  gala  dresses  and 
ornaments.  An  intense  excitement  prevails  among  all 
classes,  such  as  those  only  who  have  witnessed  it  can  pos- 
sibly realize. 

The  origin  of  the  feast  was  given  me  by  a  venerable 
old  man  in  nearly  the  following  words  ; — 

"  Many  years  ago,  as  a  certain  horseman  was  riding  on 
the  flowery  plains  of  Portugal,  ho  perceived  a  nimble 
deer  gracefully  gliding  over  the  grassy  meadow,  a  long 
way  off  before  him.  In  a  moment  he  '  dashed  the  rowels 
in  his  steed,'  and  was  bounding  over  the  plain  in  eager 
pursuit  of  his  intended  victim.  Like  an  arrow  from  a 
bow,  the  ill-foted  deer  continued  his  rapid  flight,  but  not- 
withstanding all  his  efforts,  every  moment  brought  his 
pursuer  .nearer.  The  eyes  of  the  horseman  were  so 
intensely  fixed  upon  the  animal  that  he  was  wholly 
regardless  of  all  else  than  the  possession  of  his  prey,  and 
this  single  object  filled  and  engrossed  all  his  faculties. 
Dano^er  was  near,  but  being  unconscious  of  it,  he  pressed 
recklessly  on  ;  at  \■^st  the  doer  arrived  at  the  brink  of  an 
unseen  precipice,  and  plunged  headlong  into  the  abyss 
beneath.     The  horseman,  who  was  but  a  short  distance 


70  PARA. 

behind,  followed  with  lightning-like  rapidity  onward — 
and  only  when  within  a  few  feet  of  the  verge  was  he 
aroused  to  a  sense  of  the  awfulness  of  his  situation.  It 
was  a  critical  and  a  solemn  moment ! — all  human  aid 
was  vain  !  This  the  rider  knew,  but  still  his  courage  did 
not  forsake  him,  even  in  the  presence  of  the  impending 
catastrophe  ;  raising  his  arms  imploringly  towards  heaven, 
he  inwardly  murmured,  Santa  Maria,  salve  me  (holy 
Mary,  save  me).  •  The  prayer  was  heard  ! — by  her  super- 
natural influence,  the  impetus  of  the  fiery  charger  was 
checked — and  his  rider  was  saved  !"  From  this  wonderful 
interposition  on  the  part  of  the  Sainted  Virgin,  the  festi- 
val of  Nazere  is  said  to  have  derived  its  origin ;  and  how- 
ever absurd  the  story  may  appear  to  the  reader,  yet  it  is 
positively  beheved  by  many  of  the  sim2:)le-minded  natives 
of  Para. 

The  historical  account  of  the  origin  of  the  festival,  as 
given  by  a  celebrated  Portuguese  author,  is  far  more 
satisfactory  and  credible  than  the  foregoing.  According 
to  it,  there  lived  many  years  ago  in  the  vicinity  of  Para, 
a  certain  mulatto  by  the  name  of  Placido,  who.  was  dis- 
tinguished for  his  extensive  piety  and  devotion.  This 
solitary  individual  had  in  his  possession  a  small  and 
rudely  carved  image  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  which  he  was 
accustomed  to  worship  both  morning  and  evening.  This 
he  kept  in  his  little  leaf-covered  habitation,  and  guarded 
it  with  the  greatest  assiduity  and  care.  On  the  death  of 
Placido,  the  sacred  image  fell  into  the  hands  of  an  exceed- 


71 


iugly  zealous  person  called  Antonio  Angostinho,  who,  by 
his  extensive  influence,  induced  a  body  of  religious  enthu- 
sii^ts  to  build  a  kind  of  horniitage  for  its  accommodation, 
Tliis  hermitage  was  situated  within  a  short  distance  from 
the  city,  and  being  easily  accessible,  it  soon  became  a 
place  of  popular  resort  by  many  of  the  citizens,  who  fre- 
quently repaired  thither  for  holy  purposes.  Finally,  on 
the  3d  of  July,  1793,  it  was  solemnly  decreed  by  the 
captain-general  of  the  province,  that  a  regular  festival  in 
honor  of  the  Virgin  Mary  should  be  held  near  this  place 
every  year.  Thus  was  the  Festa  de  Nazere  established 
— and  so  well  did  it  accord  with  the  spirit  and  genius  of 
the  people,  that  it  has  ever  since  been  most  scrupulously 
observed. 

The  festivities  on  this  occasion  are  commenced  by  a 
brilliant  and  extended  procession,  which  forms  in  the 
city,  and  moves  out  late  in  the  afternoon,  towards  the 
Largo  ile  Nazere.  The  procession  is  led  by  a  number 
of  citizens  on  horseback,  after  whom  an  immense  vehicle 
styled  the  "  car  of  triumph  "  is  drawn  along  by  a  pair  of 
oxen,  handsomely  decorated  with  ribbons  and  flowers. 
"Within  the  car  are  several  youths,  who  aflbrd  entertain- 
ment to  the  multitude  by  occasional  discharges  of  rockets 
and  other  fireworks. 

A  fine  band  of  music  next  follows,  preceding  a  large 
body  of  military.  Then  comes  the  president  of  the 
province,  mounted  on  a  richly  caparisoned  horse.  After 
him  succeeds  a  chaise,  bearing  in  it  a   single   priest. 


72 


together  with  the  sacred  image  of  the  Virgin.  The 
procession  is  closed  Uke  all  others  in  Brazil,  by  a  motley 
crowd  of  the  lower  classes — men,  with  huge  trays  of 
fruit  and  sweetmeats  on  their  heads — Indian  damsels, 
with  chains  of  massive  gold  suspended  round  their  necks, 
and  children  of  every  complexion,  revelling  in  the  freedom 
of  absolute  nakedness. 

The  procession  having  arrived  at  the  Largo,  the  image 
of  Nossa  Senhora  is  deposited  in  the  little  church  fronting 
the  Roscenia  de  Nazere.  A  holy  ordinance  is  then 
performed,  and  a  hymn  sung  ;  and  every  day  through- 
out the  festival  these  religious  ceremonies  are  repeated 
in  the  chapel,  both  at  sun-rise  and  sun-set.  The  church 
being  exceedingly  small,  but  few  persons  are  able  to 
obtain  an  entrance,  yet  hundreds  crowd  together  before 
the  porch,  and  zealously  engage  in  the  chants  to  the 
blessed  Virgin.  The  services  being  concluded,  the 
populace  are  allowed  to  enter  tlie  church,  and  «ach,  in 
their  turn,  to  kiss  the  concecrated  ribbons  by  which  it  is 
profusely  ornamented. 

In  the  evening  an  infinite  variety  of  amusements  are 
resorted  to. 

Fancy  yourself,  dear  reader,  for  a  moment  transported 
to  the  enchanting  province  of  which  we  write.  It  is  a 
lovely  moonlight  evening,  such  as  is  only  witnessed  in 
the  tropics,  and  you  are  strolling  out  of  the  city  with  a 
friend  to  observe  the  festivities  of  Nazere ! 

How  beautiful  the  dense  thicket  of  shrubbery  through 


78 


which  you  are  wending  your  way — how  prettily  those 
tall  palras  droop  their  delicate  branches  and  quiver  in 
the  fragrant  breeze — how  merrily  the  insects  hum  and 
flit  about  in  the  pure  atmosphere !  But  listen  an  instant 
to  a  sound  surpassingly  rich  and  melodious  that  now 
breaks  upon  your  ear,  like  a  voice  from  the  "spirit 
land," — aye,  it  is  the  plaintive  note  of  a  "  southern 
nightingale,"  charming  his  mate  with  a  love-song  of 
bewitching  sweetness.  Attentively  you  hearken  to  the 
delightful  strain,  and  a  soft  melancholy  steals  over  your 
mind.  But  at  length  you  arrive  at  the  monument  of 
Nazere !  What  a  gorgeous  spectacle  now  meets  your 
eye,  and  what  a  rapid  transition  in  the  state  of  your 
feelings  instantly  takes  place  ! 

Before  you  is  an  immense  assemblage,  gaily  dancing 
on  the  green — a  splendid  band  is  enlivening  the  vast 
concourse  with  its  stimulating  music,  and  all  are  busily 
engaged  in  a  variety  of  human  enjoyments. 

Take  a  peep  into  the  low  thatched  sheds  which  line 
the  Largo  on  either  side,  and  you  will  see  every  species 
of  dissipation.  In  one  you  will  perceive  a  number  of 
persons  occupying  themselves  with  cards,  or  a  party 
playing  billiards.  These  are  gamblers,  as  is  manifest 
from  the  piles  of  dollars  exposed  on  the  tables.  In 
another,  you  may  perchance  see  a  soldier  or  citizen, 
swinging  in  a  beautifully-woven  hammock,  and  discours- 
ing love  to  a  voluptuous  looking  Indian  maid,%ith  dark 
4 


74  PARA. 

dreamy  eyes  and  long  luxuriant  hair,  while  her  naturally 
developed  waist  is  encircled  by  his  wanton  arm. 

But  we  will  not  dwell  upon  the  incidents  of  this  Festa. 
SufiSce  it  to  say,  that  for  two  weeks  nothing  is  known 
but  gaiety  and  pleasure,  at  the  expiration  of  which  time 
it  is  brought  to  its  termination. 

Although  this  extraordinary  festival  usually  passes  by 
without  any  serious  accidents  or  public  disturbances,  yet 
it  is  much  to  be  questioned  whether  it  exerts  any  other 
than  a  debasing  tendency  upon  the  morals  of  the 
people. 


75 


CHAPTER    VII. 

"  Festa  do9  Ossos." — "  Festa  de  Espirito  Santo." — Ash  Wednes- 
day.— Palm  Sunday. — A  Romantic  Ruin  in  the  Forest. — "  Dia 
de  Intrude,"  or  Intruding  Day. 

The  most  mysterious  of  the  different  festivals  of  Para 
is  the  "  Festa  dos  Ossos,"  or  festival  of  bones.  This  sin- 
gular celebration,  as  we  understood,  was  not  of  annual 
occurrence,  but  only  took  place  once  in  a  certain  number 
of  years. 

On  the  day  of  its  observance,  the  cathedral  is  bril- 
liantly illuminated  with  lighted  candles,  which  are  kept 
burning  from  morning  until  night.  In  the  centre  of  the 
church  a  monumental  platform  is  erected  especially  for 
this  occjtsion,  which  is  overhung  by  a  dark  tapestry  of 
expensive  material,  embroidered,  along  its  margin  with 
gold  and  silver  fringe.  Upon  this  mausoleum  is  placed 
an  immense  coffin !  This  is  shrouded  with  a  rich  dra- 
pery of  black  crape,  hanging  down  in  profuse  folds  on 
either  side. 

During  the  day  the  cathedral  is  filled  with  persons 
who  come  to  gaze  upon  this  strange  spectacle,  and  to 
render  homage  to  the  consecrated  shrine  of  the  departed  ! 

About  dusk,  a  body  of  penitents,  dressed  in  the  coarsest 


76 


garments,  repair  to  the  burying-ground  of  the  poor, 
where  they  disinter  a  quantity  of  bones  which  they  bring 
with  them  into  the  city.  Forming  themselves  into  a 
procession,  they  march  along  through  the  streets  of  the 
city  in  regular  file,  each  one  of  them  bearing  a  blazing 
torch  in  one  hand,  and  a  naked  bone  in  the  other. 
Should  a  stranger  accidentally  meet  this  spectral  proces- 
sion in  some  unfrequented  avenue,  he  would  almost  be 
led  to  believe  that  he  had  encountered  a  party  of  canni- 
bals returning  from  some  horrid  rite  or  feast  of  human 
flesh. 

Having  arrived  at  the  cathedral,  the  penitents  enter, 
and  a  religious  ceremony  is  performed.  This  being  con- 
cluded, each  one  ascends  the  platform  and  casts  his  bone 
into  the  coffin.  A  hymn  follows — then  a  prayer — and 
this  wonderful  festival  is  ended  1 

Another  of  the  festivals  is  in  honor  of  the  Holy  Ghost, 
and  is  styled  the  "  Festa  de  Espirito  Santo."  It  is  in 
every  respect  the  opposite  of  the  preceding,  being  charac- 
terized by  extreme  hilarity  and  animation.  A  lofty  pole 
is  erected  in  one  of  the  church  squares,  the  summit  of 
which  is  ornamented  with  a  picture  representing  the 
Holy  Spirit  descending  in  the  form  of  a  dove,  which  is 
hung  around  with  green  wreaths  and  garlands  of  flowers. 
A  gorgeous  procession  parades  the  streets  in  the  morn- 
ing, led  by  a  fine  band,  and  distinguished  by  the  great 
number  of  its  splendid  images,  which  are  carried  on  plat- 
forms, profusely  strewed  with  bouquets  of  the  brightest 


PARA.  77 

flowers.  In  the  afternoon  services  are  held  in  the  Church 
of  the  Trinity,  which  is  tastefully  decked  with  evergreens 
for  the  occasion.  In  the  evening  there  is  a  public  display 
of  fireworks  in  the  area  in  front  of  the  church,  and 
a  general  illumination  throughout  the  city.  Every  one 
appears  to  take  a  peculiar  interest  in  this  day,  which  is, 
I  believe,  universally  observed  in  all  the  provinces  of  the 
empire. 

Ash  Wednesday  is  also  a  very  gay  day.  The  proces- 
sion on  this  occasion  is  distinguished  by  the  number  of 
its  images,  which  sometimes  exceeds  twenty  or  even 
thirty.  Before  the  images  beautiful  little  girls  with 
wings  on  their  shoulders,  trip  along,  sportively  scattering 
flowers  upon  the  path.  These  are  intended  as  represen- 
tatives of  the  angels,  and  none  others  could  have  been 
more  appropriately  selected  for  the  purpose. 

On  Palm  Sunday,  which  is  celebrated  in  all  parts 
of  Brazil,  the  display  of  palm  branches  is  very  extensive. 
The  churches  are  hung  with  theni — the  people  ornament 
their  persons  with  their  curious  leaves — and  as  the  pro- 
cession passes  through  the  streets,  ladies  standing  out 
on  the  balconies,  throw  down  flowers  and  branches  of 
palms,  until  the  ground  is  literally  covered  with  them. 

The  morning  after  our  departure  from  the  Roscenia 
de  Nazere,  we  wore  awakened  at  an  unusually  early 
hour  by  the  discordant  chiming  of  the  church  bells, 
whose  uproar  broke  upon  our  slumbers  with  startling 
vehemence.     The  custom  of  bell  ringing  is  prevalent  in 


78  PARA. 

all  Catholic  countries,  but  it  is  carried  to  an  unbounded 
excess  at  Para, — from  four  in  the  morning  until  the  hour 
of  sunset,  they  keep  up  a  perpetual  jargon,  such  as  habit 
can  alone  render  familiar,  or  familiarity  endurable ! 

At  six  o'clock  precisely,  we  took  a  cup  of  coffee,  and 
at  nine  sat  down  to  a  delicious  breakfast,  consisting 
of  stewed  beef  and  buttered  toast,  together  with  tea  and 
chocolate.  "We  then  started  out  to  take  a  snuff  of  the 
pure  air,  as  well  as  a  stroll  among  the  quiet  environs 
of  the  city. 

Passing  slowly  through  the  streets  of  the  town,  we 
at  length  arrived  at  a  beautiful  promenade,  called  the 
"  Estrada  das  Mangabeiras.''''  This  is  a  well  laid  out 
and  magnificent  highway,  running  from  north  to  south, 
along  the  western  suburbs  of  the  city,  and  extending 
from  the  marine  arsenal  to  the  "  Largo  da  Polvora." 

It  is  skirted  on  eitlier  side  with  lofty  mangabeira  trees, 
which  stand  within  ten  feet  or  more  from  each  other,  in 
regular  rows,  forming  a  green  arch  overhead  with  their 
bending  branches.  Being  the  finest  road  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  city,  considerable  care  is  taken  to  keep  it  in  excel- 
lent order.  A  more  beautiful  promenade,  I  think  I  never 
saw. 

Pursuing  our  walk  along  this  charming  highway,  we 
diverged  from  our  course  to  visit  the  hospital  of  S.  Jose. 
This  establishment  was  in  former  times  used  as  a  kind  of 
convent,  but,  like  many  institutions  of  a  similar  charac- 
ter, it  has  of  late  years  been  converted  into  an  institution 


19 


of  more  practical  utility.  A  botanical  garden  was  cora- 
inenced  many  years  ago  on  the  extensive  grounds  con- 
nected with  the  hospital,  but  owing  to  a  deficiency  of 
energy  and  public  spirit  on  the  part  of  its  projectors,  the 
plan  was  soon  abandoned,  and  no  attempt  has  been 
since  made  to  revive  it. 

Near  to  this  place  is  the  recoUmento  of  orphan  girls. 
This  is  an  institution  for  the  maintenance  of  female 
infants,  selected  for  the  most  part  from  the  large  number 
of  those  deposited  at  the  Foundling  Hospital.  This 
latter  establishment  is  for  the  convenience  of  those  who 
are  not  able,  or  who  do  not  wish  to  take  charge  of  their 
own  children.  The  building  is  provided  with  a  huge 
wheel,  occupying  the  place  of  a  window,  half  of  which  is 
exposed,  while  the  other  half  is  within  the  building. 
The  wheel  is  supplied  with  four  cradles,  one  of  which  is 
always  visible  from  without.  Whenever  a  parent  wishes 
to  abandon  his  child,  all  he  or  she  has  to  do,  is  to  take 
the  child  in  the  evening  and  put  it  in  one  of  the  cradles 
of  the  wheel.  A  semi-revolution  then  conveys  it  imme- 
diately within  the  house,  where  it  is  taken  care  of  for  the 
future.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  infants  disposed 
of  in  this  inhuman  manner  are  the  children  of  slaves  ;  all 
that  survive  are  ever  after  free. 

As  the  heat  of  the  summer  was  now  very  powerful,  we 
sou"-ht  relief  in  the  refreshing  shades  of  the  forest. 
Wending  our  way  through  a  green  tunnel  of  fantastic 
foliage,  we  shortly  emerged  from  its  cooling  twilight  into 


80 


the  open  grounds  of  a  wild  and  neglected  garden.  In 
the  midst  of  the  clear  space,  surrounded  by  an  almost 
impassable  wall  of  low  bushes,  and  overhung  with  gay- 
festoons  of  flowering  vines,  was  a  stone  mansion  of  noble 
proportions,  half  demolished  by  the  ravages  of  time,  yet 
solemn  and  interesting  even  in  its  mournful  decay.  Gay 
spirits  had  once  inhabited  that  lone  dwelling,  but  they 
have  long  since  gone ;  the  tinkling  of  merry  music  no 
longer  resounds  along  its  deserted  corridors ;  the  revelry 
of  the  joyous  dance  no  more  breaks  upon  the  stillness  of 
the  surrounding  wilderness,  and  the  house  itself,  like  its 
former  proprietors,  is  rapidly  "  passing  away."  Some 
twenty  or  thirty  years  ago,  Spix  and  Von  Martins,  two 
eminent  German  naturalists,  spent  several  weeks  at  this 
romantic  spot,  in  whose  near  vicinity  they  succeeded  in 
collecting  a  variety  of  rare  specimens,  both  of  insects 
and  plants  and  birds.  They  could  not  have  selected  a 
location  more  convenient  for  their  laudable  purposes  than 
this,  anywhere  within  the  neighborhood  of  the  city,  and 
it  was  this  fact  that  induced  them  to  take  up  their  abode 
there,  in  defiance  of  its  dilapidated  condition,  and  the 
numerous  intruders,  in  the  way  of  bats  and  reptiles,  that 
were  accustomed  to  frefj^uent  its  moss-grown  and  tottering 
walls. 

Having  plucked  a  few  choice  flowers,  and  picked  up 
some  curious  shells,  which  we  found  crawling  about  the 
walls  of  the  majestic  ruin,  we  dashed  once  more  into  the 
forest,  and  commenced  retracing  our  steps  towards  the 


81 


city.  In  less  than  an  hour  we  were  again  seated  in  one 
of  the  front  apartments  of  Mr.  Campbell's  spacious  house, 
looking  down  upon  the  moving  throng  beneath  us,  and 
chatting  ftimiliarly  on  the  difterent  spectacles  as  they 
severally  met  our  eye. 

Among  the  parsers  by  we  noticed  a  man  of  wonderful 
corpulency  jogging  slowly  through  the  street,  while  with 
one  hand  he  was  wiping  away  the  thick  drops  of  perspi- 
ration that  had  gathered  on  his  massive  brow.  "  That 
man,"  said  a  gentleman  present,  "  has  had  three  wives^^ 
"  Three  wives  !"  ejaculated  a  merry  Scotchman  at  our 
elbow,  "  by  heavens !  he  looks  as  if  he  had  eaten  them 
air 

Many  of  the  houses  in  the  city  still  bear  marks  of  the 
late  disturbances.  That  of  Mr.  Norris,  an  intelligent  and 
hospitable  American  merchant,  is  perhaps  the  most 
notable  in  this  respect.  Being  a  very  lofty  building,  it 
was  used  as  a  kind  of  fort,  and  garrisoned  by  the  presi- 
dent's guard.  Some  of  the  upper  window-blinds  were 
completely  riddled  with  bullets,  and  in  the  garden,  Mr. 
N.  informed  me,  that  he  found  a  quantity  of  balls,  of 
from  half  a  pound  to  a  pound  in  weight.  These  were 
probably  thrown  from  the  vessels  then  lying  in  the 
harbor. 

The  view  of  Para  from  the  cupola  of  this  building  is 

very  picturesque  and  variegated.     The  red-tiled  roofs  of 

the  houses,  the  rich  shrubbery  of  the  gardens,  with  here 

and  there  a  single  cocoa-nut  tree  lifting  up  its  feather- 

4* 


82  PARA. 

tufted  head,  constitute  a  pleasing  contrast;  while  the 
dark  and  venerable-looking  churches,  and  the  vine-grown 
walls  of  the  unfinished  theat'e  give  additional  interest  to 
the  charming  scene.  Before  you,  the  sj^arkling  waters  of 
the  harbor,  studded  with  little  islands,  stretch  out  like  a 
lake.  Behind,  a  dense  wilderness  of  never-fading  foliage 
presents  an  imposing  background  to  the  enchanting 
landscape. 

The  ensuing  day  was  probably  the  most  remarkable 
that  we  in  person  had  ever  witnessed  in  Brazil.  It  was 
called  the  "  Dia  de  Intrudo,"  or  Intruding-day.  Being 
the  day  immediately  preceding  Lent,  it  seemed  as  if  the 
multitude  had  determined  to  enjoy  themselves  as  much 
as  possible,  while  they  yet  had  it  in  their  power,  in  view 
of  the  restrictions  which  the  coming  season  imposes  upon 
their  conduct. 

On  "  Intruding-day,"  every  one  is  permitted  to  assail 
whomsoever  he  pleases,  with  such  articles  as  are  accus- 
tomed to  be  used  on  this  occasion.  The  most  innocent 
of  these  are  small  waxen  balls  called  "cabacinhas,"  being 
about  equal  to  a  hen's  egg  in  size,  and  filled  with  j^er- 
fumed  water.  For  some  time  previous  to  the  day  in 
question,  black-eyed  damsels  may  be  seen  parading  the 
streets,  with  large  trays  on  their  uncovered  heads,  laden 
with  these  sportive  missiles,  glistening  with  their  gay 
colors  of  azure  and  crimson  and  gold.  They  are  sold 
for  a  penny  apiece,  and  every  one  lays  in  a  stock  of 
them,  in  preparation  for  the  approaching  carnival. 


88 


On  the  morning  of  this  remarkable  anniversary,  all 
the  balconies  of  the  different  mansions  are  fortified  with 
frolicsome  damsels,  who  keep  up  an  indiscriminate  war- 
fare with  their  cabacinhas,  against  all  who  lucklessly 
attract  their  attention  in  the  street.  But  the  sport  is  not 
entirely  confined  to  the  innocent  waxen  balls.  As  the 
excitement  increases,  basins,  syringes,  and  even  pails  and 
tubs  of  water  are  called  into  requisition.  Every  one  is 
assaulted,  but  no  one  pretends  to  take  offence.  Should 
a  person  do  so,  ten  to  one  that  he  would  be  seized  and 
most  unceremoniously  ducked  into  a  hogshead  of  water, 
until  his  foolish  ire  was  somewhat  abated.  This  has  been 
done  in  several  instances. 

Heedless  of  all  consequences,  J.  and  myself  rashly 
ventured  into  the  streets  for  the  purpose  of  witnessing  the 
sport.  Cabacinhas  were  flying  in  all  directions,  syringes 
were  filling  the  air  with  glittering  spray,  while  basins 
and  dippers  and  pails,  wielded  by  female  hands,  were 
pouring  their  watery  contents  with  marvellous  assiduity 
upon  the  devoted  heads  of  the  unfortunate  passei-s-by. 

We  by  no  means  escaped  unscathed  ;  on  the  contrary, 
in  less  than  half  an  hour  we  were  as  thoroughly  drench- 
ed as  if  we  had  been  taking  a  bath  in  the  river  with  our 
clothes  on.  But  don't  imagine,  fond  reader,  that  we 
bore  all  this  with  the  patience  of  a  Job,  or  the  humility 
of  an  anchorite.  Xo  such  thing  !  Eagerly  we  rushed 
into  the  thickest  of  the  fray,  throwing  our  cabacinhas 
■with  skill,  wherever  a  pretty  face  presented  itself.    Peep- 


84  PARA. 

ing  through  a  half  open  lattice,  I  perceived  a  lovely 
young  damsel  luxuriantly  reclining  in  her  hammock,  her 
long  sable  tresses  hanging  in  wavy  masses  over  her 
pretty  face  and  olive-mantled  bosom.  She  appeared  to 
be  in  a  gentle  slumber,  and  the  magic  smile  that  still 
played  around  her  rosy  lips,  nearly  disarmed  me  of  my 
intended  purpose. 

But  my  determination  was  made,  and  it  was  now  too 
late  to  retract.  So,  delicately  tossing  one  of  my  caba- 
cinhas  into  the  apartment,  it  broke  upon  the  cheek  of 
the  charming  maiden  ;  jumping  up  hurriedly  in  her 
jfright,  she  rushed  at  once  to  the  window,  and  in  an 
instant  her  stag-like  eyes  were  fixed  upon  me  as  the 
heartless  assailant.  Transfixed  with  guilt  and  enraptured 
at  the  sight  of  her  beauty,  my  heart  rebuked  me  for  the 
deed  I  had  committed,  and  I  felt  half  resolved  to  make 
atonement  for  my  crime,  but  just  at  this  moment,  a  well- 
charged  ball  from  the  hand  of  the  maiden  herself,  almost 
bhnded  my  left  ogle,  and  suddenly  banished  the  idea 
from  my  mind. 

The  most  formidable  of  all  the  belligerents  was  a 
certain  widow  lady,  who  had  from  a  lofty  balcony 
been  pouring  down  pails  of  water  upon  the  heads  of 
all  who  passed  below.  Bent  on  revenge,  a  young  man 
who  had  been  near  drowned  by  this  virago,  entered  her 
house,  with  his  pockets  full  of  cabacinhas.  He  was 
white,  surely,  when  he  entered  that  fatal  house,  but 
when  he  came  out,  his  complexion  was  as  dark  as  that 


PARA.  86 

of  the  raven's  wing.     IIow  it  came  so,  any  reader  with 
the  shghtest  spark  of  imagination  can  easily  surmise. 

But  to  be  brief.  The  day  passed  by  without  any 
consequent  evils,  and  the  beautiful  moonlight  evening 
■which  followed,  was  devoted  to  music,  dancing,  and 
revelry  of  every  kind  ! 


86  PARA, 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

Excursion  lo  Caripe. — Character  of  Scenery. — Indian  Huts. — 
Insects  and  Birds. — An  Adventure. — Nesting-tree  of  the  Yel- 
low Orioles. — A  Rio  Negro  Canoe. — Lovely  Scene. — Arrival 
at  Caripe. — A  Stroll  in  the  Woods. — Young  Cocoa-nuts. — 
A  Paca. — An  Armadillo. — Farina  :  its  manufacture  and 
value. — A  Bath  by  Sunset. 

About  a  week  after  taking  leave  of  Nazere,  we  made  an 
excursion  to  Caripe.  This  is  a  neglected  fruit  and  sugar 
plantation,  situated  on  a  small  island  nearly  twenty  miles 
from  the  city  of  Para. 

Floating  down  slowly  with  the  tide,  by  the  glimmer- 
ing light  of  the  stars,  we  guided  our  singular  looking 
canoe  amid  a  labyrinth  of  fairy  islands,  until  at  last  we 
turned  into  an  embowered  streamlet  to  our  left ;  and 
were  thus  paddling  slowly  along,  against  a  powerful  cur- 
rent, when  with  a  flood  of  light  the  glorious  morning 
dawned  !  How  enchanting  now  was  everything  around  ! 
The  dew-drops  on  the  overhanging  branches  glistened 
like  jewels  in  the  bright  sunlight,  splendid  birds  flew 
from  bough  to  bough,  chattering  merrily  in  the  fulness 
of  their  joy,  insects  innumerable  kept  up  a  continual  buz- 


87 


zing  in  the  pure  atmosphere,  while  flowers  of  every  hue 
studded  the  drooping  foliage  of  the  trees,  that  met  in  an 
arch  of  tropical  magnificence  directly  over  our  heads  ! 
The  effect  of  such  a  scene,  presented  suddenly  to  the 
mind,  is  exhilarating  beyond  description,  and  none  who 
have  had  the  good  fortune  to  experience  it,  will  ever 
forget  the  delicious  sensation,  should  an  age  of  sorrow 
and  of  grief  succeed. 

The  first  impressions  are  always  the  most  delightful 
and  permanent,  and  often,  aye  often,  when  gazing  enrap- 
tured on  a  lovely  landscape,  have  I  closed  my  eyes  upon 
it  for  a  moment,  that  I  might  again  and  again  be  startled 
by  the  sudden  bursting  of  the  beautiful  vision  upon  my 
mind,  and  at  last  I  have  turned  away  with  a  feeling 
of  melancholy  that  the  same  degree  of  exquisite  delight 
could  never  be  mine  again,  that  the  charm  had  vanished 
away  for  ever. 

Gradually  the  streamlet  became  wider  and  wider,  and 
the  trees  on  either  bank  receded  further  and  further  from 
each  other,  until  at  last  several  rods  intervened  between 
the  opposite  shores.  Although  rather  monotonous,  yet 
the  scenery  along  the  banks  was  singularly  wild  and 
beautiful.  Dense  thickets  lined  the  shores,  and  groves 
of  bamboo  stretched  out  to  a  considerable  distance  in 
the  water.  Here  aud  there  an  opening  in  the  forest 
disclosed  to  us  an  Indian  wigwam,  at  the  same  time  giv- 
ing us  a  hasty  glimpse  of  its  swarthy  inmates.  These  huts 
of  the  natives  are  constructed  by  meaus  of  poles  driven 


88  PARA. 

in  the  ground,  over  which  a  light  roof,  composed  of 
canes  and  palm  leaves  closely  matted  together,  is  securely- 
fastened.  Being  generally  open  in  front,  a  good  view  of 
the  interior  is  thus  afforded  to  the  passing  traveller,  who 
sees,  perhaps,  a  group  of  natives  seated  on  the  ground, 
quietly  smoking  their  long  pipes,  or  lounging  in  their 
hammocks,  thumbing  with  their  fingers  the  strings  of  a 
species  of  violin  or  guitar,  which  they  hold  in  their 
hand.  A  variety  of  domesticated  animals  and  loquacious 
parrots  completes  the  scene,  which  to  the  eye  of  a  stran- 
ger always  appears  eminently  picturesque  and  pleasing. 

As  we  proceeded  onward,  we  met  several  small  mon- 
tarias  manned  by  half-naked  Indians,  coming  from  the 
opposite  direction.  Nothing  is  more  deserving  of  notice 
than  the  different  varieties  of  water-craft  that  one 
encounters  in  sailing  up  the  rivers  and  streams  of  Para. 
The  "  montarias"  are  of  the  simplest  construction,  being 
made  from  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  hollowed  out  by  the 
aid  of  fire  and  rude  instruments.  Boats  of  this  descrip- 
tion are,  some  of  them,  so  light,  that  they  may  easily  be 
carried  from  place  to  place  by  the  united  strength  of  two 
persons.  They  are,  besides,  so  narrow,  and  draw  so 
little  water,  that  they  are  of  great  use  in  navigating  the 
smallest  streams.  It  is  a  curious  spectacle  to  see  one  of 
these  singular  craft  filled  with  Indians,  paddling  rapidly 
down  the  current  of  an  arbored  stream  in  South  America 
— the  extraordinary  formation  of  the  boat  itself — the 
strange   appearance   of  the  natives — the  simultaneous 


89 


dipping  of  twenty  jtaddles,  and  the  glistening  of  the 
silvery  spray,  is  calculated  to  produce  an  iinpression  upon 
the  mind  of  the  beholder  so  palpably  distinct,  that  it  can 
never  be  erased. 

Gigantic  moths  and  butterflies  of  many  hues  were 
continually  flitting  near  us,  and,  with  the  assistance  of  a 
long  netted  pole  which  we  fortunately  had  on  board,  we 
captured  several  fine  specimens.  But  this  was  not  all, — 
with  our  faithful  guns,  we  shot  quite  a  variety  of  shining 
kingfishers  and  other  birds,  perched  upon  dry  stems 
jutting  out  over  the  water,  in  anxious  expectation  of 
their  prey,  or  slumbering  away  the  day  in  the  midst  of 
their  lovely  sylvan  bowers, 

"  Jack,"  said  my  companion  to  me,  suddenly,  "  look  at 
these  egrets  along  the  shore — had  n't  we  better  try  and 
give  them  a  shot  ?  They  are  now  more  than  a  rifle  shot 
off",  but  l)y  keeping  perfectly  still  for  a  few  moments,  we 
can  doubtless  get  within  a  suitable  shooting  distance." 

"By  all  means,"  exclaimed  I,  with  pleasure — "we 
must  give  these  tall  fellows  a  Yankee  salute.  IIow 
majestically  they  walk  along  the  beach  !  how  symme- 
trical their  delicate  forms  !  how  snowy  white  their 
plumage !" 

There  they  were  indeed  I — twenty  as  handsome  birds 
as  a  naturalist  might  wish  to  ])ehold — marching  slowly 
along  the  shore,  in  quest  of  their  favorite  food,  as  natur- 
ally and  unsuspectingly  as  if  danger  was  not  near. 

Our  men  scarcely  touched  the  water  with  their  pad- 


90 


dies,  and  so  smoothly  did  we  glide  over  the  placid 
surface  of  the  water,  as  to  leave  no  perceptible  wake 
behind.  We  spoke  not,  but  kept  our  eyes  intently  fixed 
upon  our  prey,  expecting  them  every  moment  to  take 
flio-ht ;  at  last  I  raised  my  gun,  and  took  deliberate  aim 
— but  to  my  great  chagrin,  the  cap  alone  exploded, 
alarming  the  birds  by  the  sound,  who  rose  instantly 
into  the  air.  But  a  sharp  report  from  J.  now  rang  on 
my  ear! — the  shot  whistled  in  its  unerring  flight,  and 
down  came  two  of  the  charming  birds  stone  dead,  while 
another,  who  was  merely  winged,  ran  swiftly  along  the 
shore.  As  we  were  desirous  of  preserving  this  one  alive, 
one  of  our  men  volunteered  to  leave  the  boat  and  pursue 
him.  Stripping  himself  for  this  purpose,  he  jumped  into 
the  water,  and  was  soon  in  rapid  chase  after  his  victim. 
The  spectacle  now  presented,  w;is,  to  say  the  least, 
decidedly  ludicrous ;  and  at  this  very  moment  we  see 
the  poor  fellow  in  our  imagination  just  as  he  was  then, 
in  puris  naturallbus,  running  with  surprising  velocity 
after  that  ill-fated  bird  !  Eventually  the  feathered  biped 
was  captured  by  our  hero,  who,  having  secured  his  prize, 
triumphantly  started  out  for  the  boat,  with  the  bird  flut- 
tering violently  in  one  of  his  hands.  As  he  was  wading 
out  towards  us,  through  the  shallow  water,  he  suddenly 
sank  up  to  his  shoulders  in  a  quicksand,  and  was  wholly 
unable  to  extricate  himself  from  his  critical  situation. 
But  the  fellow  acted  bravely,  and  still  continued  to  hold 
on  to  the  legs  of  his  white-pinioned  bird.     Forcing  our 


91 


craft  up  to  him,  as  near  as  the  shallowness  of  the  water 
would  allow,  we  succeeded  by  the  aid  of  a  pole  in  re- 
lieving our  unfortunate  companion  from  his  perilous 
dilemma,  and  in  getting  him  once  more  on  board.  The 
bird  was  in  excellent  order,  his  delicate  snowy  plumage 
being  almost  unruffled.  He  proved  to  be  an  egret  of  the 
largest  kind,  and  was  characterized  by  long  legs,  eyes  of 
a  bright  crimson,  and  plumes  on  his  back  of  great 
length  and  beauty.  The  bird  manifested  but  little  fear, 
and  soon  became  so  well  reconciled  to  his  new  condition, 
as  to  eat  food  from  our  hands.  He  survived  the  excur- 
sion, and  lived  with  us  in  a  state  of  perfect  domesticity 
for  many  days ! 

Perceiving  a  respectable-looking  cottage  peeping  from 
amid  the  shade  of  the  surrounding  foliage  on  the  bank 
to  our  right,  we  bethought  ourselves  of  halting  for  a  short 
time,  in  order  to  enjoy  a  few  moments'  relief  from  the 
overpowering  heat  of  the  sun,  and  to  refresh  our  envious 
palates  with  a  taste  of  the  luscious  fruit  with  which  the 
adjacent  groves  were  bountifully  teeming. 

Guiding  our  boat  into  a  httle  cove,  we  disembarked 
and  secured  it  firmly  to  the  trunk  of  a  tree.  The  pro- 
prietor of  the  estate  met  us  as  we  were  walking  up 
towards  the  house,  gave  us  a  cordial  welcome,  and  in- 
vited us  to  partake  of  some  fruit  and  wine  under  the 
shelter  of  his  commodious  veranda.  This  we  gladly 
assented  to,  and  forthwith  proceeded  to  the  house  with 
our  kind-hearted  host,  where  we  regaled  ourselves  upon 


92 


a  sumptuous  banquet  of  juicy  oranges,  delectable  bana- 
nas, and  sweet-flavored  mangoes,  together  with  some 
delicious  port,  and  a  rich  beverage  prepared  from  the 
fruit  of  the  cocoa  plant.  Having  sufficiently  refreshed 
ourselves,  we  strolled  for  a  short  time  about  the  garden, 
previous  to  taking  our  departure.  At  last  we  bade 
farewell  to  our  hospitable  entertainer,  and  prepared  to 
resume  our  journey. 

Overhanging  the  water  with  its  drooping  branches, 
was -a  tree  of  prodigious  size,  literally  full  of  the  long 
nests  of  the  yellow-rumped  oriole.  The  novelty  of  the 
spectacle  did  not  fail  to  attract  our  observation,  and  we 
halted  for  a  fev*^  moments  beneath  its  shade,  in  order  to 
scrutinize  the  motions  of  the  hundred  gay-colored  birds 
who  were  chattering  and  fluttering  amid  the  thickness  of 
the  foliage.  The  general  colors  of  these  birds  were  black 
and  yellow,  strikingly  blended  together,  and  their  notes 
were  shrill  and  discordant  to  the  ear. 

It  is  a  singular  fact,  by  the  way,  that  birds  of  bright 
plumage,  with  few  exceptions,  are  not  endowed  with  the 
faculty  of  song,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  sweetest 
warblers,  such  as  the  British  nightingale  and  the  Ameri- 
can mocking-bird,  have  a  dull  and  uninviting  exterior. 

It  is  ahnost  impossible  to  drive  these  orioles  from 
their  nesting  trees  !  If  you  have  a  heart  so  cruel,  you 
may  continue  to  fire  at  them  for  hours,  and  may  wanton- 
ly destroy  half  their  number,  yet  the  remainder  will  still 
flutter  around  the  sacred  spot,  vainly  endeavoring  to 


PARA.  93 

protect  their  helpless  ofispring,  to  whom  they  are 
strongly  bound  by  those  mysterious  ties  which  death 
alone  can  sunder.  The  natives  have  a  superstitious 
dread  of  killing  these  beautiful  birds,  and,  hke  the  robin 
redbreast  in  our  own  country,  they  are  everywhere  pro- 
tected and  beloved. 

While  proceeding  onward,  we  fell  in  with  a  huge  and 
fantastic  Rio  Negro  canoe,  on  her  return  from  a  long 
voyage  far  up  the  Amazon.  She  was  truly  a  most 
comical  craft,  bearing  not  a  little  resemblance  to  a 
Chinese  junk.  Both  stem  and  stern  were  square,  and 
painted  in  a  very  singular  manner.  At  either  extremity 
was  a  small  cabin,  over  each  of  which  was  an  awning, 
made  of  palm  leaves  thickly  matted  together.  Seated 
on  the  quarter-deck,  was  the  pilot  or  captain ;  on  his 
head  was  a  coarse  hat,  with  an  enormous  brim — in  his 
mouth,  an  Indian  pipe  of  considerable  length,  while  with 
his  right  hand  he  held  firmly  on  to  the  tiller,  thus  con- 
trolling the  languid  motions  of  his  very  extraordinary 
vessel,  in  the  most  comfortable  manner  imaginable  ! 

As  the  breeze  was  extremely  light,  at  least  a  dozen 
powerful  looking  blacks  were  employed  in  rowing  the 
canoe,  by  means  of  poles  not  less  than  fifteen  feet  in 
lenffth,  on  the  extremities  of  which  were  fastened  circu- 
lar  pieces  of  wood  of  a  foot  or  more  in  diameter. 

A  number  of  unfortunate  natives  on  board  of  the 
vessel  particularly  attracted  our  notice.  They  were 
yoked  two  and  two  together  like  so  many  cattle,  by  huge 


94  PARA. 

blocks  of  wood,  into  which  their  feet  were  inserted. 
These  pitiable  beings,  we  understood,  had  been  seized 
by  the  authorities  of  Rio  Negro  for  some  trivial  offence, 
and  were  now  being  transported  to  Para  for  the  purpose 
of  enrolment  in  the  army  for  life.  The  government  of 
the  province  is  in  constant  fear  of  a  second  insurrection, 
and  takes  this  means  therefore  of  adding  to  its  strength  ; 
but  there  is  little  doubt,  however,  that  this  course,  if 
much  longer  persisted  in,  will  inevitably  result  in  the 
very  end  which  it  is  intended  to  avert. 

In  addition  to  the  crew  and  Indians,  we  observed 
several  beautiful  Rio  Negro  girls,  whose  dreamy  eyes 
and  dark  tresses,  hanging  in  dishevelled  masses  over 
their  handsomely  rounded  shoulders  and  well-developed 
bosoms,  left  an  impression  upon  our  susceptible  hearts 
that  was  not  soon  erased. 

There  were  besides  on  board  a  variety  of  rare  monkeys 
and  other  nimble  animals,  who  were  amusing  themselves 
in  gambolling  with  each  other  about  the  rigging ;  also  a 
general  assortment  of  parrots  and  long-tailed  macaws,  of 
which  one  of  the  latter  was  conspicuously  perched  upon 
the  top  of  the  mast-head  itself,  looking  around  on  the 
picturesque  landscape  beneath  him  with  all  the  pride 
and  dignity  of  a  sovereign  ! 

We  were  now  approaching  the  termination  of  our 
short  but  interesting  voyage,  and  were  sailing  between 
two  charming  islands,  whose  alternate  groves  and  plan- 
tations of  sugar-cane,  waving  like  fields  of  Indian-corn, 


05 


gave  a  variety  to  the  scene  which  was  exceedingly  pleas- 
ing to  the  eye.  The  grateful  fragrance  of  the  forest 
flowers  perfumed  the  air  ;  the  groves  were  alive  with 
the  joyful  voices  of  birds  ;  and  the  surftice  of  the  ripplino- 
water  was  sparkling  in  the  sunshine  like  a  mantle  of 
diamonds.  So  perfectly  magnificent  was  the  scene,  that 
we  were  almost  willing  to  believe  that  we  were  in  the 
far-famed  land  of  the  foiries,  or  that  the  magic  wand  of 
the  enchantress  had  created  by  its  influence  the  lovely 
landscape  we  beheld. 

Suddenly  we  emerged  from  the  stream  into  the  broad 
expanse  of  the  river,  which  was  here  ten  or  twelve  miles 
across  to  the  next  intervening  island.  This  island  was 
Marajo,  concerning  which  we  shall  have  something  to 
say  by  and  by. 

Not  more  than  a  mile  distant,  to  our  left,  the  white 
sandy  beach  and  red-tiled  mansions  of  Caripe  broke 
upon  our  view.  It  was  a  pleasant  sight,  and  we  gazed 
upon  it  earnestly  and  with  increased  delight  as  its  dis- 
tance from  us  became  gradually  diminished. 

Arriving  at  the  glistening  beach,  we  disembarked,  and 
leaving  the  boat  to  be  secured  by  the  men,  we  imme- 
diately sought  the  house.  We  found  the  building  to  be 
large  and  in  good  condition,  with  several  commodious 
apartments,  and  a  snug  little  veranda  in  front. 

The  surrounding  scenery  was  wild  and  diversified. 
On  one  side  was  a  dense  forest,  on  the  other  an  extensive 
garden,  comprising  flowers  and  plants  of  endless  varieties, 


96 


beyond  which  were  groves  of  orange  and  other  fruit 
trees,  and  thrinng  fields  of  tufted  sugar-cane,  while  be- 
fore us,  the  noble  river  of  the  Amazons  expanded  out 
like  a  sea  of  molten  silver  ! 

As  soon  as  we  had  sufficiently  rested  ourselves,  and 
dispatched  a  hastily  prepared  meal  of  boiled  tapioca  and 
milk,  we  took  a  walk  of  exploration  and  investigation 
through  the  extensive  grounds  of  "  Caripe." 

The  estate  was  evidently  in  a  sadly  dilapidated  condi- 
tion, and  so  overgrown  with  gigantic  weeds  and  thick 
shrubbery,  that  we  were  frequently  obliged  to  use  our 
long  "  wood  knives,"  which  we  carried  with  us  on  all 
occasions,  in  order  to  effect  a  passage  through  them. 

While  walking  through  a  pleasant  grove,  one  of  our 
men  climbed  a  tall  cocoa-nut  tree,  and  threw  down  to  us 
a  cluster  of  its  fine  fruit.  They  were  hardly  ripe,  but  on 
breaking  the  shell  of  one  of  them,  we  found  its  contents 
extremely  delicious. 

Hearing  the  sudden  report  of  a  gun  near  by,  I  turned 
my  eyes  in  the  direction  from  whence  it  came,  and  per- 
ceived at  the  distance  of  several  rods,  my  companion  J. 
triumphantly  holding  a  small  animal  in  one  hand,  while 
with  the  other  he  grasped  the  barrel  of  his  gun,  the  stock 
of  which  rested  on  the  ground. 

"  Well  done,  J. !"  exclaimed  I,  "  what  kind  of  an 
animal  have  you  killed  ?" 

"  The  animal,"  replied  J.  advancing  towards  us,  "  is 
called  by  the  natives,  I  believe,  a  paca,  and  a  very  hand- 


97 


some  little  creature  it  is.  IIo  was  ruiiiiini;  (juitkly 
through  the  thicket  at  the  moment  I  fired,  and  I  was 
then  uncertain  whotlier  it  was  a  bird  or  a  beast.  How- 
ever, I  determined  to  satisfy  my  curiosity." 

The  animal  was  of  a  reddish  brown  color,  with  rather 
coarse  hair,  and  a  head  resembling  in  shape  that  of  a 
guinea-pig.  His  sides  were  prettily  striped  with  white, 
and  his  countenance  was  adorned  with  whiskers  like 
those  of  a  cat.  He  was  about  the  size  of  a  large  rabbit, 
and  very  fat.  The  flesh  of  the  paca  is  esteemed  a  great 
delicacy,  and  is  as  white  and  tender  as  that  of  a  chicken. 
He  is  nocturnal  in  his  habits,  and  sleeps  during  the  most 
of  the  day.  They  are  perfectly  innocent  and  harmless, 
and  are  often  domesticated,  in  which  state  they  are  quite 
interesting  and  playful. 

Strolling  on  through  the  woods,  it  was  not  long  before 
one  of  our  companions  espied  a  small  armadillo,  to  which 
we  gave  chase,  and  soon  succeeded  in  capturing.  He 
was  a  comical  fellow,  with  a  queer  looking,  sharp-pointed 
head,  and  a  banded  coat-of-mail  almost  equal  to  that  of 
the  tortoise  in  strength  and  solidity.  Animals  of  this 
kind  are  harmless,  and  live  chiefly  on  vegetables  and 
insects,  which  they  for  the  most  part  procure  during  the 
night.  They  are  furnished  by  nature  with  powerful 
clavvs,  with  which  they  are  enabled  to  dig  burrows  with 
wonderful  facility.  Their  flesh  is  much  relished  by  the 
natives,  who  hunt  them  with  dogs,  and  dig  them  out  of 
5 


98  .       P  A  K  A  . 

the  deepest  recesses  of  their  subterranean  retreats.  When 
attacked,  they  roll  themselves  into  a  ball,  so  invulnerable 
as  to  be  secure  from  the  assaults  of  most  of  their  pur- 
suers. Thus  does  an  all- wise  Providence  provide  for  the 
safety  of  these  animals,  who  without  such  special  aid 
would  be  utterly  unable  to  protect  themselves,  and  for 
the  preservation  of  a  class  of  animals  which  would  other- 
wise soon  become  extinct. 

Eetracing  our  steps  to  the  house,  we  could  not  but 
admire  the  exuberant  foliage  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded. The  trees  were  in  close  proximity  to  each  other, 
and  formed  an  umbrageous  canopy  above  us,  by  the  meet- 
ing of  their  drooping  branches.  BrilHant  parasites  of 
every  hue  glittered  like  stars  amid  the  emerald-like  ver- 
dure, grotesque  plants  of  mammoth  size  stood  around 
us — glad  birds  chattered  on  the  branches,  and  busy 
insects  fluttered  in  the  air ! 

Arriving  at  the  house,  we  observed  a  number  of  old 
slaves  engaged  in  making  farina.  As  this  article  is 
a  general  substitute  for  bread  among  the  poorer  classes 
throughout  the  province,  a  few  remarks  concerning  its 
origin  and  manufacture,  may  not  prove  wholly  uninter- 
esting to  the  reader. 

The  vegetable  {Jatropha  manihot)  from  which  the 
farina  is  made  is  in  its  natural  state  considered  quite 
poisonous,  and  is  entirely  unfit  for  the  purpose  of  nutri- 
tion.   The  means,  therefore,  by  which  its  pernicious  qua- 


00 


lities  are  expelled,  and  the  nutritious  princiiile  retained, 
must  always  be  regarded  as  a  most  extraordinary  and 
invaluable  discovery. 

The  plant  is  a  native  of  Brazil,  and  was  known  to  the 
natives  on  their  first  intercourse  with  the  white  men.  No 
other  vegetable,  not  even  wheat,  possesses  an  equal  degree 
of  nutriment,  and,  together  with  bananas  and  wild  meat, 
it  constitutes  the  principle  item  of  the  native  Brazilian's 
bill  of  fare.  The  farina  is  made  from  the  root,  which  is 
first  rasped  with  a  piece  of  indented  wood,  until  it  is 
reduced  to  a  pulpy  consistence.  The  juice  is  then  effec- 
tually expressed  in  the  following  singular  manner :  large 
circular  baskets  of  plaited  rushes  are  filled  with  the  rasp- 
ings of  the  raandioca  root,  and  then  suspended  from  the 
branches  of  the  trees.  By  means  of  a  considerable  weight 
of  stones  fastened  beneath,  the  rushes  are  drawn  tightly 
together,  and  most  of  the  liquid  squeezed  out.  After 
this,  the  pulpy  substance  is  exposed  on  skins  to  the  rays 
of  the  sun,  for  the  purpose  of  evaporating  all  the  remain- 
ing moisture. 

The  juice  being  at  length  entirely  expressed,  the  pulp 
is  placed  on  large  earthenware  pans,  and  stirred  over 
a  hot  fire  until  it  granulates ;  it  is  then  put  up  in  bas- 
kets for  use.  The  manner  in  which  the  natives  eat  the 
farina  is  very  amusing,  and  is  besides  perfectly  inimita- 
ble. Taking  a  quantity  of  it  in  one  of  their  hands,  by  a 
skilful  motion  of  their  arm  they  toss  every  particle  of  it 
into  their  mouths,  and  it  seldom  happens  that  any  is 


100  T  A  K  A  . 

wasted  in  this  manner.  I  have  frequently  attempted  to 
imitate  them,  bnt  I  found  that  the  feat  required  more 
legerdemain  talent  than  I  was  master  of,  and  that  on 
every  trial  my  mouth  was  but  httle  better  supplied  with 
the  granulated  material  than  either  my  nose  or  eyes. 

A  milk-white  substance  is  deposited  by  the  juice  of  the 
mandioca  root,  which  being  collected,  and  hardened  by 
exposure  to  the  sun,  constitutes  the  article  so  well  known 
as  tapioca,  from  which  such  wholesome  and  delicious 
puddings  are  made.  So  very  poisonous  is  the  root  in  its 
natural  state,  that  it  has  been  found  to  occasion  death  in 
a  few  minutes  when  administered  experimentally  to  ani- 
mals, and  it  is  said  that  the  natives  used  it  with  great 
effect  many  years  ago  in  destroying  their  Spanish  perse- 
cutors. It  has  been  ascertained  by  dissection  that  this 
poison  operates  by  means  of  the  nervous  system,  produc- 
ing immediate  convulsions  and  exquisite  torments,  as 
soon  as  it  is  introduced  into  the  stomach.  In  some 
instances  it  has  been  used  in  the  execution  of  criminals, 
in  which  cases  death  invariably  ensued  within  from  five 
to  ten  minutes  after  its  imbibition.  The  fatal  principle 
appears  to  exist  in  certain  gases,  which  are  dissipated  by 
heat.  This  is  conclusively  proved,  from  the  harmless- 
ness  and  highly  nutritious  properties  of  the  farina, 
when  the  process  of  its  manufacture  has  been  completed. 

It  has  been  stated  on  good  authority,  that  a  single 
acre  of  land  planted  with  the  mandioca  root,  will  afford 
nourishment  to  more  persons  than  six  acres  of  wheat 


101 


planted  in  tho  same  manner,  and  my  own  observation 
fully  justifies  this  assertion.  Concerning  the  value  of 
this  plant,  Southey  remarks  with  truth,  that  "  If  Ceres 
deserved  a  place  in  the  mythology  of  Greece,  far  more 
might  the  deification  of  that  person  have  been  expected 
who  instructed  his  fellows  in  the  use  of  mandioc  !" 

Being  near  sunset  when  we  arrived  at  the  house,  we 
lost  no  time  in  going  down  to  the  river's  side,  to  undergo 
a  refreshing  ablution  in  its  pure  and  sparkling  waters. 
For  this  purpose,  there  is  no  spot  better  adapted  by 
nature  than  the  beach  at  Caripe.  So  gradual  is  the 
slope  of  the  bank  that,  at  high  tide,  a  person  can  wade 
out  for  several  hundred  rods  without  getting  beyond  his 
depth.  During  the  spring  tides,  the  water  rises  and  falls 
full  fifteen  feet.  The  strand  is  hard,  and  is  composed  of 
the  finest  white  sand,  and  is  as  smooth  and  clean  as  the 
floor  of  a  ball-room. 

The  water  was  remarkably  transparent,  insomuch  that 
we  could  distinctly  discern  snowy  pebbles  and  unique 
shells  lying  on  the  bottom  at  the  distance  of  many  feet. 
Its  surface  was  mantled  with  all  the  splendor  of  tho 
setting  sun,  and  a  beautiful  sight  was  it  for  us  to  watch 
the  mimic  waves,  tinged  with  the  sunbeams,  as  they 
sportively  broke  upon  the  shore. 

For  nearly  half  an  hour  wo  jilungcd  and  swam  and 
bespattered  one  another,  as  playfully  and  happily  as  a 
party  of  innocent  mermaids  bathing  in  their  own  en- 
chanted lake.     No  ravenous  sharks  or  ferocious  caymans 


102  PARA. 

were  here  to  molest  us !  No  clawed  monstei-s,  not  even 
a  crab  or  a  lobster  did  we  see ;  but  hosts  of  gold  and 
silver-gleaming  fishes  were  continually  darting  like  so 
many  little  fairy  sprites  around  us ! 

With  spirits  gay  and  our  bodies  all  in  a  glow,  we  at 
last  came  out  of  the  water.  Parting  day  had  sped ;  and 
when  again  we  reached  the  house,  bright  stars  were 
peeping  from  the  sky  ! 

It  was  evening,  and  never  shall  we  forget  it  while  the 
pulse  of  life  throbs  in  our  veins.  The  deep  silence,  the 
wild  beauty  of  the  scenery,  the  tranquillity  of  the  river, 
spread  out  like  a  lake,  and  the  reflection  of  the  stars  on 
its  surface,  presented  a  picture  of  natural  beauty  that  we 
have  but  rarely  seen  surpassed  ! 


ion 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Melancholy  Incident. — The  Island  of  Marajo. — Our  Indian  ('ap- 
taiu  Gaviono. — Life  on  Board  a  Brazilian  Schooner. — A  thril- 
ling Adventure. — Curious  Game. — Mexiana. — Mysterious 
Mound. — A  Night  in  the  Stream. 

At  sunrise  on  the  ensuing  morning  we  emerged  from 
our  hammocks,  and  having  fortified  our  stomachs  with  a 
strong  cup  of  coflfee,  we  saUied  out  into  the  adjoining 
woods. 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  our  departure,  and  arrived 
in  the  city  about  nine  in  the  evening.  A  lamentable 
occurrence  took  place  at  Caripe  some  few  weeks  after- 
wards, which  we  will  briefly  relate. 

Among  the  number  of  persons  whose  acquaintance  we 
had  made  while  in  the  city,  was  a  young  Englisliman  by 
the  name  of  Graham,  who  had  left  his  native  country  in 
quest  of  health,  accompanied  by  his  lovely  wife  and  only 
child.  During  his  residence  in  Brazil  he  had  devoted  a 
great  portion  of  his  time  in  prosecuting  the  study  of 
natural  history,  and  had  succeeded  by  industry  and 
untiring  perseverance,  in  acquiring  an  extensive  collec- 
tion of  birds,  quadrupeds,  and  slu-Us.     His  younger  bro- 


104  PARA. 

ther  had  recently  arrived  from  England  for  the  purpose 
of  escorting  liini  back  to  his  native  country. 

The  elder  (jrahani  being  desirous  of  giving  his  brother 
a  glimpse  of  the  country  before  leaving  for  Europe,  sug- 
gested a  trip  to  Caripe,  whither,  in  company  with  a  faith- 
ful black  who  had  been  his  constant  companion,  they  all 
went.  Wishing  one  day  to  cross  over  to  the  island 
of  Marajo,  he  started  out  in  a  httle  canoe,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  gaining  a  larger  one,  which  was  lying  at  anchor 
in  the  river,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.  Through 
some  carelessness  or  mismanagement,  the  frail  boat  was 
upset,  and  Mr.  Graham,  together  with  his  wife  and 
child,  was  plunged  into  the  water.  Every  exertion  was 
made  by  those  in  the  larger  vessel  to  save  them,  but 
without  avail.  The  three  were  drowned !  This  tragic 
scene  was  witnessed  by  young  Graham  from  the  beach, 
but,  alas  !  he  could  render  no  assistance.  What  tumul- 
tuous throes  of  anguish  must  have  wrung  that  orphan 
brother's  heart  on  beholding  those  most  dear  to  him  on 
earth  swallowed  up  in  a  moment  by  the  relentless  waves, 
leaving  him  alone  in  a  land  of  strangers !  Mr.  Graham 
was  himself  an  excellent  swimmer,  but  lost  his  own  hfe 
in  a  vain  endeavor  to  save  that  of  his  wife.  Their  bodies 
lightly  locked  together,  floated  ashore.  Surely,  "they 
loved  in  life,  and  in  death  they  were  not  divided."  A 
rude  grave  was  dug  in  the  sand,  and  the  sad  remains 
of  worth  and  beauty  consigned  to  its  bosom.  Here 
amid  the  solitudii  of  beautiful  nature,  and  on  the  banks 


lo; 


of  the  king  of  rivers,  tlioy  sweetly  repose.  No  tear  of 
friendship  bedews  the  spot,  but  the  rising  tide  of  the 
mighty  Amazon  daily  weeps  over  it.  Martyrs  to  the 
science  they  so  nobly  prosecuted,  they  are  calmly  sleep- 
ing at  Caripe ! 

"  There  breathes  the  odor  of  summer  flowers, 
And  the  music  of  birds  is  there." 

Having  passed  another  agreeable  week  in  the  city,  we 
decided  on  making  a  visit  to  the  beautiful  island  of 
Marajo.  This  island  lies  directly  in  the  mouth  of  the 
Amazon,  and  is  somewhat  more  than  a  hundred  miles  in 
length  by  from  fifty  to  eighty  in  breadth.  On  account 
of  its  rare  beauty  and  the  infinite  variety  of  its  flowering 
plants,  it  has  been  significantly  called  by  the  natives, 
"The  isle  of  flowers."  This  island  abounds  in  large 
campos,  or  extensive  meadows,  covered  with  tall  grass, 
which  are  frequented  by  immense  numbers  of  wild  cattle 
and  horses.  The  horses  were  so  abundant  some  years 
since,  that  they  were  killed  by  hundreds,  merely  for  the 
sake  of  their  hides.  A  malignant  disorder,  however, 
finally  broke  out  among  them,  which  destroyed  a  great 
proportion  of  tht'ir  nunibei',  and  seemed  to  threaten 
extermination  to  the  entire  race.  Since  then  they  have 
been  comparatively  scarce,  but  many  thousands  still 
roam  over  the  grassy  plains  of  Marajo! 

The    vessel  in   which   we  sailed  thither  was  a  queer- 
5* 


106  PARA. 

looking  schooner,  and  was  used  exclusively  in  the  trans- 
portation of  wild  cattle  from  the  state  of  "  Jungcal  "  to 
the  city.  It  was  manned  entirely  by  natives  :  the  captain 
himself  was  an  Indian,  and  decidedly  the  most  intelligent 
and  entertaining  one  that  we  had  previously  encountered. 
He  was  both  a  skilful  musician  and  an  inveterate  story- 
teller. His  name  was  Gaviono.  Throughout  the  day 
he  was  as  lively  as  a  lark,  and  appeared  to  take  a  pecu- 
har  pleasure  in  recounting  to  us  the  many  strange  adven- 
tures with  which  his  memory  was  well  supplied.  But 
■when  the  shades  of  night  fell  on  the  river,  and  the 
fragrant  and  soothing  breeze  from  the  land  blew  freshly 
over  the  waters,  and  the  stars  of  heaven  beamed  brightly 
in  the  sky,  then  a  perceptible  change  came  over  the 
spirit  of  Gaviono's  dream.  All  gaiety  vanished  from  his 
mind,  and  for  hours  together  he  would  swing  in  his 
grass-woven  hammock,  without  speaking  a  single  word, 
but  all  the  time  playing  a  succession  of  plaintive  airs  on 
his  musical,  though  rudely  constructed  guitar. 

Sometimes,  too,  when  in  a  merrier  mood,  he  would 
favor  us  with  a  song.  His  voice  was  powerful  and  of 
surpassing  richness,  but  wholly  unfettered  by  the  rules  of 
singing  art.  He  sang  but  few  songs,  and  these  were 
chiefly  of  a  national  character.  They  were  characterized 
by  a  wildness  of  sentiment  and  strangeness  of  melody, 
that  could  not  but  produce  a  most  powerful  impression 
upon  the  mind  of  the  listener. 

Music  is  at  all  times  pleasing  to  the  ear,  and  seems  to 


lOV 


exert  H  very  beneficial,  although  m3'steriou3,  influence 
upon  the  human  soul !  What  a  soothing  power  it  has 
over  the  troubled  spirit  when  oppressed  by  sorrow,  or 
overburdened  with  grief?  Like  oil  poured  out  upon  the 
tenopestuous  waters,  it  calms  the  hearings  of  the  soul, 
modifies  the  turbulence  of  excited  passion,  elevates  the 
intellect,  smoothes  the  temper,  and  restores  universal 
peace  and  placitude  to  the  perturbed  faculties  of  the 
mind. 

But  he  who  would  feel  the  full  potency  of  music  must 
hear  it  while  gliding  over  tranquil  waters ;  when  the 
atmosphere  is  balmy  and  pure,  and  the  scenery  around 
of  that  wild  and  romantic  character,  so  well  calculated  to 
call  into  action  the  sublimer  emotions  of  the  mind.  Let 
it  be  at  night,  when  the  stars  are  shining  brightly,  and 
the  moon  in  silent  majesty  is  moving  swiftly  through  its 
azure  pathway  in  the  sky,  and  then  he  who  can  listen 
unmoved  to  the  sweet  strains  of  trembhng  melody  as  it 
steals  softly  upon  his  ear,  must  have  a  heart  too  cold  for 
earth — oh  !  let  him  never  hope  for  heaven  ! 

It  was  under  such  circumstances  as  these  that  we 
loved  especially  to  listen  to  Gaviono's  voice  ;  and  nothing 
appeared  to  atVord  him  more  gratification  than  the 
sincere  praises  we  were  in  the  habit  of  bestowing  upon 
his  humble,  although  none  the  less  admirable  perform- 
ance. 

Owing  to  the  changes  of  the  tides  and  the  dangers  of 
the   river  navigation,  wc-  invariably  anchored  at  night 


108 


At  early  niovn  \vg  were  ;ig:un  under  weigh,  sailing  along 
shores  geinined  with  llowering  rushes,  and  fringed  with 
the  most  magnificent  shrubbery,  which  hung  in  heavy 
masses  over  the  placid  surface  of  tlie  water. 

Our  repasts  were  by  no  means  epicurean  :  a  miserable 
dilution,  politely  styled  coffee,  was  our  daily  beverage, 
and  coarse  farina  and  jerked  beef  our  only  edibles.  The 
latter  consisted  of  long  strips  of  meat  that  had  been 
thoroughly  dried  by  exposure  to  the  sun.  There  being 
no  stove  on  board,  a  fire  was  made  on  some  large  stones, 
and  the  process  of  cooking  performed  by  securing  a  piece 
of  the  dried  beef  on  the  end  of  a  forked  stick,  and  holding 
it  directly  over  the  blaze,  until  it  was  sufficiently  roasted 
for  agreeable  mastication ! 

While  our  schooner  was  at  anchor,  we  frequently  went 
ashore  in  the  small  boat,  in  quest  of  natural  curiosities 
and  game.  On  one  afternoon,  I  remained  on  board, 
while  J.,  my  constant  companion,  started  off  in  the  little 
boat,  accompanied  by  several  of  the  men,  he  to  hunt  for 
birds,  and  they  to  seek  for  crabs. 

On  arriving  at  the  beach,  the  men  separated  from  J., 
and  followed  up  a  small  stream,  looking  eagerly  for  shell- 
fish, while  he,  solitary  and  alone,  wandered  along  the 
outskirts  of  the  forest,  listening  attentively  to  every 
sound,  and  watching  with  a  sportsman's  eye  for  any 
movement  that  might  be  made  among  the  branches  over 
his  head.  I  occasionally  heard  the  report  of  his  gun  as 
it  came  booming  over  the  water,  and  began  to  regret  that 


109 


I  had  not  gone  asliore  with  him.  Tlie  schooner  was 
moored  at  least  a  mile  from  the  land,  so  that  we  were 
unable  to  see  anything  of  our  companions  except  when 
standing  by  themselves  in  bold  relief  upon  the  sandy 
beach. 

But  toVturn  to  J.  For  two  hours  he  rambled  along 
the  margin  of  the  dark  wild  ^YOods,  occasionally  penetrat- 
ing for  a  few  rods  into  the  thicket,  as  the  voice  of  some 
strange  bird  attracted  him  thither.  Having  killed  quite 
a  number  of  richly-plumaged  birds,  he  at  last  issued  from 
the  forest  and  descended  to  the  beach.  To  his  infinite 
amazement  and  consternation  the  small  boat  was  nowhere 
to  be  seen.  "  What !  had  his  companions  deserted  him  ! 
or  had  they  become  intoxicated,  and,  in  endeavoring  to 
reach  the  schooner,  been  drowned."  These  were  the 
thoughts  that  broke  upon  his  mind,  as  he  reflected  upon 
the  horrible  idea  of  being  abandoned,  and  necessitated  to 
pass  the  night  upon  that  lonely  and  gloomy  shore. 

It  was  near  sunset,  and  in  half  an  hour  more  the  dark 
mantle  of  night  would  be  thrown  over  the  beautiful 
landscape  around  !  No  time  was  to  be  lost ;  he  exerted 
his  voice  to  its  utmost  capacity,  but  it  foiled  to  reach  our 
ears.  We  were  then  lounging  sluggishly  in  our  ham- 
mocks, and  our  senses  being  somewhat  blunted  by 
Morpheus,  we  neither  saw  our  friend  nor  heard  his 
voice.  Scanning  the  surface  with  a  hawklike  eye,  J. 
finally  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  small  boat  floating  at 
some  distance  from  the  shore.    It  had  been  carried  away 


110 


by  the  tide.  At  this  fortunate  moment  the  men  emerged 
from  the  woods ;  as  soon  as  they  perceived  the  condition 
of  the  boat,  one  of  them  jumped  instantaneously  into  the 
water,  and  being  an  excellent  swimmer,  soon  reached  the 
boat,  into  which  he  got,  and  paddled  it  again  ashore. 
They  then  returned  to  the  schooner.  J.  related  the 
incident  with  considerable  warmth :  "  Never,"  said  he, 
"  shall  I  forget  the  feelings  I  experienced  during  those 
few  moments  of  anxiety,  should  I  live  until  every  hair  on 
my  head  is  grey." 

Among  the  birds  which  J.  had  killed  were  several 
handsome  parrots,  a  couple  of  glistening  jacamars,  and 
a  variety  of  little  manakins,  together  Avith  a  red  squir- 
rel and  a  small  black  monkey. 

"  Upon  my  word,"  said  I,  "  I  regret  very  much  that  I 
did  not  accompany  you.  You  have  had  much  better 
luck  than  I  anticipated." 

"  I  wish  really  that  you  had  been  with  me,"  replied 
J.,  "  you  would  have  seen  as  splendid  an  ornithological 
spectacle  as  you  ever  gazed  on  before.  While  walking 
along  the  forest  I  frightened  up  a  flock  of  tall  scarlet 
flamingoes  from  a  marshy  thicket,  where  they  had  been 
feeding.  I  fired  at  them  instantly,  but,  on  account  of 
the  distance,  my  shot  had  no  perceptible  effect." 

"  It  must,  indeed,  have  been  on  account  of  the  dis- 
tance," replied  I,  "  for  never  did  I  know  you  to  miss 
your  mark  when  within  a  suitable  shooting  distance  ;  but, 
by  heavens!    I  would  have  given ^ up  all  my  hopes  of 


Ill 


pleasure  for  a  week  to  come,  to  have  bad  a  moment's 
glimpse  at  these  Hamingoes  ;  for,  to  tell  the  truth,  I  never 
saw  a  live  specimen  in  my  life.  It  must  truly  have  been 
a  gorgeous  sight." 

"  I  have  some  curious  shells  in  my  pocket,"  said  J., 
"  which  I  picked  up  on  the  shore ;  also  several  fine 
guavas,  which  I  preserved  particularly  for  you, — here 
they  are,"  continued  he,  at  the  same  time  handing  me 
several  specimens  of  this  well  known  fruit.  They  were 
about  the  size  of  a  peach,  with  a  bright  yellow  skin ; 
within,  the  pulp  was  of  the  deepest  crimson,  and  of  a 
very  agreeable  taste. 

"  Let  us  try  and  get  something  to  eat,"  remarked  J., 
"  for  I'm  as  hungry  as  an  ogre."  Saying  this  we  went 
together  into  the  cabin,  where  we  made  a  hearty  supper 
on  jerked  beef  and  farina. 

During  the  evening  we  swung  in  our  hammocks  in  the 
open  air,  and  chatted  with  each  other  on  the  events  of 
the  day,  and  of  the  delights  we  anticipated  on  Marajo. 
Gaviono,  also,  favored  us  with  several  of  his  admirable 
songs. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning  our  worthy 
captain,  Gaviono,  pointed  out  to  us  a  charming  island, 
whose  tall  palm-trees  in  the  distance  appeared  like  tufts 
of  verdure  rising  above  the  watery  surface.  It  was  the 
lovely  island  of  "  Mexiana,  concerning  whose  beauties 
and  various  attractions  we  had  heard  many  graphic 
accounts. 


112  PARA. 

This  island  is  from  forty  to  fifty  miles  in  extent,  and 
from  ten  to  twenty  in  width.  It  has  but  one  house  of 
any  consequence,  which  is  quite  large,  and  is  surrounded 
by  the  most  enchanting  scenery  imaginable.  The  beach, 
which  lies  within  a  short  distance  in  front  of  the  house, 
is  of  snowy  whiteness,  and  abounds  with  many  varie- 
ties of  pearly  muscles  and  valuable  shells.  The  campos, 
like  those  of  Marajo,  are  well  suppHed  with  cattle,  num- 
bers of  which  are  periodically  exported  to  the  city.  The 
forest  is  noted  for  the  abundance  of  its  fierce  jajuars  and 
brilliant  birds,  and  the  streams  teem  with  alligators  and 
singular  fish.  Mr.  Graham,  the  enterprising  naturahst, 
whose  imfortunate  death  at  Caripe  we  have  heretofore 
alluded  to,  collected,  during  a  residence  of  three  months 
on  this  island,  upwards  of  two  hundred  distinct  species 
of  birds,  besides  an  infinite  variety  of  insects,  shells,  and 
other  natural  curiosities.  He  spoke  in  glowing  terms  of 
the  various  charms  of  the  island,  and  said  that  the 
attractions  it  offered  to  the  lover  of  natural  history  were 
unrivalled  by  those  of  any  spot  he  had  ever  before 
visited. 

There  is  a  considerable  mound  in  the  centre  of  the 
island  whicli  has  especially  attracted  the  attention  of 
visitors.  It  is  partially  covered  Avith  trees  and  rich 
shrubbery,  and,  on  account  of  the  prominence  of  its  situa- 
tion, commands  a  fine  view  of  the  picturesque  land- 
scape by  which  it  is  environed. 

For  many  years  an  inexplicable   mystery  hung  over 


118 


this  place,  and  various  wild  conjectures  were  entertained 
respecting  its  origin.  By  the  natives  it  was  regarded 
with  superstitious  reverence,  and  they  had  strange 
scruples  against  having  it  disturbed. 

Mr.  Graham,  however,  determined  at  all  hazards  to 
satisfy  his  own  curiosity  regarding  it.  Having  hired 
several  blacks,  he  proceeded  to  the  place,  and  com- 
menced operations ;  digging  vigorously  for  some  time, 
their  eftbrts  were  at  length  rewarded  by  finding  at  a 
depth  of  about  twelve  feet,  a  number  of  earthenware 
cups,  and  other  utensils.  Resuming  their  work,  they 
afterwards  discovered  several  immense  jars  of  earthen- 
ware, which,  on  being  opened,  were  found  to  contain 
a  quantity  of  dust  resembling  ashes ;  musty  bones,  the 
remains  of  bows  and  arrows,  and  trinkets  of  various 
descriptions.  These  were  all  carefully  treasured  up  by 
their  fortunate  discoverer,  and  sent  by  him  to  England  as 
sacred  mementoes  of  an  Indian  race  that  had  once  lived 
and  flourished,  but  which  has  long  since  passed  away 
and  been  forgotten ! 

In  the  afternoon,  the  magnificent  island  of  Marajo  was 
distinctly  visible,  and  seen  through  a  strong  spy-glass 
which  we  had  taken  the  precaution  to  bring  with  us, 
it  seemed  to  realize  all  our  brightest  dreams  and  imagi- 
nary conceptions  of  a  terrestrial  paradise  ! 

Towards  evening  we  entered  a  small  river,  which, 
at  its  mouth,  spread  out  like  a  lake,  and  w:vs  studded 
with  numerous  little  islands  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty. 


114  PARA. 

We  could  not  sufficiently  admire  the  richness  of  the 
foliage,  which  drooped  in  gay  festoons  over  the  surface  of 
the  water,  or  the  splendor  of  the  flowers  which  grew 
amid  the  shrubbery  along  the  shore.  A  gloomy  forest 
mantled  by  the  solemn  flush  of  a  brief  tropical  twilight, 
added  sublimity  to  the  imposing  scene,  and  filled  us  with 
strange  emotions  of  awe,  mingled  with  feelings  of  indefi- 
nable delight.  The  same  odoriferous  fragrance  we  have 
remarked  before  now  filled  the  air,  and  imparted  an  irre- 
sistible sweetness  to  the  gentle  breeze  which  was  deli- 
cately fanning  our  cheeks. 

Having  sailed  up  the  stream  to  the  distance  of  three 
or  four  miles,  we  took  in  our  sails  and  suddenly  dropped 
anchor.  A  gloaming  light  overspread  the  beautiful  land- 
scape, and  the  evening  birds  were  sweetly  singing  amid 
the  thick  branches  the  parting  song  of  another  day  I 

Soon  the  queen  of  night  arose,  and  distributing  her 
benign  rays  through  the  interstices  of  the  clustering 
foliage,  enveloped  us  in  a  wilderness  of  moonbeams ! 
The  narcotic  state  of  the  atmosphere,  the  low  whispering 
of  the  breeze,  the  carolling  of  the  birds,  and  the  monoto- 
nous rippling  of  the  stream,  induced  a  desire  for  repose ; 
so  jumping  into  our  hammocks  with  pleasing  anticipa- 
tions for  the  morrow,  we  bade  "  good  night''  to  the 
world  ! 


116 


CHAPTER    X  . 

Reality  contrasted  with  a  Dream. — Trip  in  a  Canoe  to  Jungcal. 
— Alligators  by  the  Way. — Appearance  of  Jungcal. — Our 
Head-quarters. — Singular  Encounter  with  a  Bird. — Evening  at 
Jungcal. 

A  SUDDEN  flood  of  light  bursting  upon  us  like  a  meteor, 
while  we  lay  unconscious  in  our  suspended  hammocks, 
aroused  us  at  length  from  our  dreamy  slumbers.  In  our 
dreams  we  had  wandered  back  to  home  ;  a  dear  friend 
had  been  carried  to  the  silent  tomb,  and  we  were  among 
the  hopeless  number  of  the  bereaved  ;  the  cold  and  snows 
of  winter,  too, — the  leafless  trees,  the  blighted  plants,  and 
the  howling  winds, — deepened  the  gloom  of  our  spirits, 
and  rendered  us  nigh  broken-hearted.  We  awoke  ;  but 
how  changed  the  scene !  The  brightness  of  the  sunlight 
almost  dazzled  our  eyes — the  most  beautiful  scenery  sur- 
rounded us — the  surface  of  the  water  shone  like  a  highly- 
polished  mirror,  and  on  some  neighboring  sandbars,  tall 
birds  of  splendid  scarlet  plumage  were  seeking  diligently 
for  their  natural  food,  while  small  halcyons  of  exceeding 
beauty  darted  occasionally  from  their  coverts,  and  flitted 
along  unsuspectingly  under  the  delightful  shade  of  the 
tingled  ma<5se3  of  shrubbery  which  overhung  the  stream ; 


116  PARA. 

really  it  seemed  as  if  our  compact  on  earth  Lad  been  dis- 
solved, and  we  had  been  transported  to  another  world,  of 
far  greater  magnificence  and  beauty. 

Shortly  after  breakfast  the  tide  began  to  flow  strongly 
up  the  stream,  and  we  commenced  stowing  our  luggage 
away  in  the  small  boat  -which  was  to  convey  us  a  few 
miles  up  the  streamlet  to  Jungcal. 

All  our  different  articles  being  stowed  in  the  boat, 
last  of  all,  we  ourselves  got  in  also.  A  paddle  was  then 
given  to  each  of  us,  at  our  solicitation,  which  we 
immediately  began  to  use  with  extraordinary  spirit,  if 
not  with  equal  dexterity.  In  front  of  us  were  two  of  the 
sailors,  who  used  their  paddles  with  astonishing  quick- 
ness and  skill,  while  Gaviono,  who  was  comfortably 
seated  in  tbe  stern,  with  an  Indian  pipe  in  his  mouth, 
guided  our  little  craft  with  remarkable  accuracy  through 
the  various  narrow  passages  and  sudden  windings  of  the 
stream. 

The  scenery  was  quite  picturesque.  Now,  the  banks 
would  be  covered  with  thick  foliage  overhanging  the 
stream,  while,  a  little  further  on,  light  groves  of  young 
palms  drooped  over  the  water  on  either  side,  through 
whose  openings  we  caught  occasional  glimpses  of  the 
grassy  meadows  beyond. 

Many  were  the  small  alligators  that  we  saw  basking 
along  the  shores,  while,  sometimes,  the  loud  snort  of  a 
full-grown  one,  as  he  sank  with  a  heavy  splash  beneath 
the  surface,  would  strike  abruptly  upon  our  ears.     These 


117 


animals  are  very  abundant  on  Marajo,  and  wliile  lying 
on  the  surface  of  the  water,  with  their  capacious  heads 
alone  exposed,  their  general  appearance  is  somewhat 
similar  to  that  of  a  floating  log  of  wood.  Although 
they  move  with  great  awkwardness  while  on  land,  and 
can  make  little  progress  except  directly  forward,  yet, 
when  disturbed  in  the  water,  their  motions  are  marked 
by  extreme  rapidity.  Their  "  coat  of  mail "  covering  is 
a  complicated  piece  of  mechanism,  and  is  of  sufficient 
sohdity  to  repel  even  a  musket  ball. 

Coming  at  length  to  an  open  part  of  the  stream, 
Gaviono  pointed  out  to  us  the  leaf-thatched  cottages  of 
Jungcal.  They  were  mere  huts,  being  constructed  by 
means  of  poles  driven  in  the  ground,  the  interstices  of 
which  were  filled  up  with  mud.  The  leafy  roof  consti- 
tuted an  effectual  protection  both  against  the  severe  rains 
of  the  island  and  the  scorching  rays  of  the  noon- day  sun. 

The  huts  were  located  about  forty  rods  or  more  from 
the  bank  of  the  stream ;  on  one  side  they  were  bordered 
by  a  dense  thicket  of  bamboos  and  trees  of  various  kinds, 
while,  in  the  opposite  direction,  the  table-land  stretched 
for  many  miles,  dotted  here  and  there  with  patches  of 
verdure,  and  groves  of  waving  palms.  The  view  in  front 
of  the  dwellings  was  cut  off  by  a  dark  wilderness,  which 
extended  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  along  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream. 

Paddling  our  canoe  up  to  a  rude  whai'f,  we  disem- 
barked,   and    were    cordially    welcomed    by    Senhor 


118  PARA. 

Anzevedo,  the  chief  superintendent  of  the  place.  Having 
ordered  a  couple  of  the  natives  to  take  charge  of  our 
baggage,  we  walked  up  with  him  to  his  house,  if  such  by 
courtesy  it  may  be  called.  It  was  made  in  precisely  the 
same  manner  as  the  other  habitations,  but  was  larger  and 
more  commodious.  A  row  of  bamboo  stakes  was 
fastened  in  the  ground  within  ten  feet  of  the  house,  over 
which  the  leaf-matted  roof  of  the  cottage  drooped,  thus 
forming  a  Robinson-Crusoe-like  veranda,  which  we 
afterwards  found  to  aflford  a  delightful  shelter  during  the 
sultry  hours  of  the  day. 

There  were  no  chairs  or  sofas  in  Marajo — the  innocent 
natives  had  never  heard  of  such  things ;  so,  swinging  our 
hammocks  under  the  veranda,  we  lounged  in  them  for  a 
short  time  while  holding  a  desultory  conversation  with 
Senhor  Anzevedo,  chiefly  respecting  the  natural  history 
of  the  island. 

"  What  say  you  to  a  walk  ?"  suddenly  exclaimed  J., 
starting  up  from  his  hammock,  and  looking  out  eagerly 
towards  the  forest,  near  whose  borders  some  tall  egrets 
were  stalking  quietly  about.  "  I  should  like  very  much 
to  bring  down  one  of  those  fine  fellows." 

"  You  may  go  and  try  your  luck,"  replied  I,  "  but  for 
my  part  I  would  prefer  keeping  as  much  as  possible 
out  of  the  sun,  on  account  of  a  slight  headache  with 
which  I  am  now  troubled." 

"  Very  well,"  said  he,  "  I  will  go  out  alone  and  see 
what  can   be   done.     It  will   require    some   cunning. 


19 


raethinks,  to  get  within  shot  of  those  quick-sighted  birds 
on  the  open  campo,  but  at  all  events  I'll  give  them  a 
trial." 

In  a  tew  moments  he  had  e(|uipped  liimself,  and  with 
gun  in  hand  stealthily  proceeded  out  towards  the  spot 
where  his  feathered  victims  were  feeding.  We  watched 
his  movements  with  considerable  interest,  as,  with  quiet 
steps  and  crouching  attitude,  he  gradually  approached 
his  prospective  prey.  Finally,  the  birds  evidently  became 
alarmed,  and  were  just  about  to  take  their  flight,  when 
J.  suddenly  halted,  deliberately  raised  his  gun,  and  fired. 
A  white  cloud  of  birds  immediately  rose  into  the  air,  but 
a  gigantic  crane,  with  a  broken  wing,  was  left  behind. 
This  bird,  to  my  utter  astonishment,  instead  of  endeavor- 
ing to  make  his  escape  by  running,  as  any  stranger  would 
of  course  suppose,  turned  about  and  began  to  pursue  my 
friend.  J.  did  not  much  like  the  looks  of  his  feathered 
adversary,  and  probably  thinking  that  in  this  case 
"discretion  was  the  better  part  of  valor,"  commenced 
running  with  amazing  velocity  towards  the  house. 
Convulsed  with  laughter  at  a  spectacle  which  rivalled  in 
ludicrousness  anything  I  had  ever  before  seen,  I  seized 
my  gun,  and  having  loaded  it  as  speedily  as  possible, 
rushed  out  on  the  campo,  with  the  laudable  determina- 
tion of  saving  my  inestimable  companion,  if  not  from 
the  jaws  of  a  wild  beast,  at  least  from  the  prodigious  bill 
of  a  feathered  monster. 

As  soon  as  I  had  got  within  a  proper  distance,  I  tired, 


120  r  A  K  A  . 

and,  lo  and  behold,  kind  reader  (and  I  hope  you  will 
forgive  my  egotism),  the  wounded  bird  fell  prostrate 
and  dead  upon  the  ground. 

The  population  of  Jungcal  did  not  exceed  fifty  per- 
sons ;  of  this  number  about  one  half  were  blacks,  the 
remainder  half-breeds  and  Indians.  Totally  ignorant  of 
all  the  arts  and  accomplishments  of  civihzed  life,  they 
were  alike  sheltered  from  its  many  vicissitudes  and 
sorrows.  Indeed,  they  were  as  joyous  and  contented  as 
if  creation  itself  had  stopped  at  the  borders  of  their  own 
luxuriant  isle. 

At  sunset  we  regaled  ourselves  with  a  bowl  of  deli- 
cious "  mingow."  This  is  made  by  boiling  tapioca  in 
milk,  and  sweetening  it  with  either  molasses,  honey,  or 
sugar,  as  best  suits  one's  taste  and  convenience.  It  was 
our  principal  and  favorite  dish  on  Marajo.  The  day  had 
passed,  and  a  most  beautiful  starlight  evening  succeeded. 
Swinging  in  our  hammocks  under  the  humble  veranda 
of  Anzevedo's  palmetto-thatched  cottage,  we  whiled  away 
the  hours  in  chatting  with  our  friendly  host — in  curling 
wreaths  of  smoke  from  our  long  Indian  pipes — in  listen- 
ing to  the  tinkling  of  rude  guitars  in  the  neighboring 
dwellings — and  in  feasting  our  eyes  upon  the  unrivalled 
beauty  of  the  scenery  around  us. 


PARA.  121 


CHAPTER  XI. 

First  Morning  at  Jungcal. — Account  of  the  Toucans. — The 
Roseate  Spoonbill. — Magnificence  of  the  Forest. — The  Palms. 
Brazii-nut. — Cocoa  and  Cannon-ball  Trees. — Capture  of  an 
Onca,  or  Jaguar. — Howling  Monkeys. — The  "Preacher" 
Monkey. — Evening  Dance. 

Fair  rose  the  morning  of  the  ensuing  day,  and  glo- 
riously bright  were  the  varied  tints  that  glowed  along 
the  bosom  of  the  western  horizon  ! 

Near  us  the  dense  foliage  of  the  forest  glistened  in  the 
sunlight  like  an  emerald  drapery,  hung  with  dazzling 
jewels.  The  dew-laden  branches  rustled  in  the  gentle 
breeze,  and  the  low  gurgling  of  the  streamlet  broke  like 
music  upon  our  ears.  Anon,  the  note  of  a  distant  toucan, 
or  chattering  of  noisy  parrots,  suddenly  disturbing  the 
sublime  solitude  of  the  scene,  served  only  to  add  to  the 
intensity  of  its  wildness  and  romantic  interest.  Insects 
innumerable  sported  with  each  other  in  the  delicious 
atmosphere,  and  delicate  little  humming-birds  flitted 
gaily  from  flower  to  flower.  Away  ofl"  on  the  green 
mantled  campos,  herds  of  wild  cattle  and  horses  were 
quietly  grazing ;  whil8  now  and  then  an  immense  flock 

6 


122  PARA. 

of  ducks  or  scarlet  ibises,  would  rise  up  in  a  body  from  the 
tall  grass,  and  soar  triumphantly  into  the  azure  sky. 

Such  was  the  picture  which  was  presented  to  us  on 
awakening  for  the  first  time  from  our  delightful  slum- 
bers at  Jungcal.  A  scene  of  more  transcendent  beauty 
we  had  never  gazed  on  before ;  it  even  now  blesses  us 
in  our  midsummer  dreams,  and  cheers  us  while  treading 
with  noiseless  steps  along  the  rugged  pathway  of  human 
Ufe. 

We  were  quite  lost  in  contemplation  when  our  land- 
lord, Senhor  Anzevedo,  intimated  to  us  that  breakfast 
was  ready,  hinting,  moreover,  that  the  sooner  we  com- 
menced it  the  warmer  it  ivould  be.  The  meal  consisted 
of  some  fresh  fish,  a  roasted  duck,  farina  as  usual,  and 
coffee.  While  we  were  disposing  of  these  articles  (in  a 
manner  which  would  undoubtedly  have  surprised  our 
refined  reader),  Anzevedo  swung  near  us  in  his  ham- 
mock, giving  us  an  acccount  of  all  he  knew  concerning 
the  different  strange  birds  and  animals  which  inhabited 
the  island.  His  description  of  the  toucans  and  their 
habits  particularly  interested  us.  These  birds  are  alike 
distinguished  for  the  singularity  of  their  forms  and  the 
splendor  of  their  plumage,  as  well  as  the  enormous  and 
apparently  disproportionate  size  of  their  beaks.  On 
account  of  their  natural  timidity,  and  the  solitude  of  their 
haunts,  they  have  been  until  of  late  years  but  little  known 
to  naturalists. 

The  genus  includes  not  less  than  twenty-five  species, 


PARA.  123 

of  which  the  "  white-breasted  toucan"  [ramphastos  Bra. 
sinensis)  is  the  largest  in  size.  This  bird  when  full  grown 
is  about  twenty-seven  inches  in  length,  from  the  tip  of 
its  beak  to  the  extremity  of  its  tail.  Its  bill  alone  is  full 
nine  inches  long,  and  in  the  hvo  specimen  is  of  surpass- 
ing delicacy  and  elegance.  This  prodigious  member  is 
extremely  thin  and  cellular,  and  is  much  lighter  than  its 
appearance  would  indicate.  Being  vascular,  it  is  sup- 
posed to  be  of  importance  to  the  bird,  in  giving  an 
extraordinary  development  to  the  organs  of  smell.  This, 
however,  is  but  mere  conjecture.  The  plumage  is  of  a 
shining  black,  while  the  feathers  of  the  throat  are  of  the 
finest  texture  and  purest  white.  The  bill  itself  is  of 
vermilion  and  yellow,  beautifully  blended  together  ;  but 
these  splendid  tints  fade  shortly  after  the  death  of  the 
bird.  No  artificial  means  have  as  yet  been  devised  for 
preserving  them.  This  species  is  found  abundantly  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year,  on  the  island  of  Marajo,  and 
is  eagerly  sought  after  by  the  natives,  who  prize  its  flesh 
for  its  tenderness  and  exquisite  flavor. 

The  toucans  subsist  for  the  most  part  upon  fruit, 
but  when  in  a  state  of  captivity  they  learn  to  eat  flesh  of 
all  kinds.  Their  favorite  food  is  the  assahy  berry,  and 
their  method  of  eating  it  is  very  remarkable.  They  first 
seize  the  fruit  in  the  extremity  of  their  beak,  and  by 
a  sudden  twitch  throw  it  up  several  feet  into  the  air  ;  as 
it  falls  they  catch  it,  and  swallow  it  entire,  without  the 
shghtest  attempt  at  mastication.      They  confine  them- 


124  PARA. 

selves  mostly  to  lofty  trees,  and  may  be  seen  sitting 
on  the  topmost  branches,  with  their  beaks  pointed 
directly  towards  the  wind,  thus  by  instinct  overcoming  a 
power  which  if  exerted  on  their  broadside,  might  consi- 
derably disturb  their  comfort  and  equanimity. 

On  account  of  the  peculiar  construction  of  their  eyes, 
as  well  as  the  enormous  size  of  their  beaks,  they  are  not 
able  to  discern  objects  well  which  are  immediately  before 
them,  yet  their  vision  on  the  side  is  remarkably  acute. 
Unless  the  hunter  is  aware  of  this  circumstance,  he  will 
find  it  almost  impossible  to  get  a  shot  at  them. 

They  make  their  nests  in  the  hollow  of  old  trees,  which 
are  accessible  by  means  of  a  small  circular  opening  in 
front.  The  female  lays  but  two  eggs,  on  which  she  sits, 
and  with  her  formidable  beak  protruding  from  the  port- 
hole of  her  fortress,  she  is  able  eflfectually  to  repel  all 
assailants,  in  the  form  of  monkeys,  serpents,  or  other  rep- 
tiles, who  may  be  disposed  to  invade  her  sacred  pre- 
mises. 

Soon  after  we  had  made  an  end  of  our  morning's  meal, 
Senhor  Anzevedo  proposed  a  short  ramble  in  the  forest, 
to  which  J.  and  myself  joyfully  consented.  In  a  few 
moments  we  were  fully  equipped,  and  with  our  guns 
resting  on  our  shoulders,  and  our  long  knives  by  our 
sides,  we  started  off  in  the  direction  of  the  wilderness. 

While  we  were  sauntering  over  the  grassy  table-land 
whicb  lay  between  the  cottages  and  the  forest,  a  flock  of 
scarlet  ibises,  snowy  egrets,  and  roseate  spoonbills,  who 


PARA.  125 

were  concealed  from  view  by  a  coppice  of  low  bushes, 
suddenly  flew  up  within  a  few  rods  before  us.  In  an 
instant  a  shot  from  J.  brought  one  of  the  spoonbills  to  the 
ground.  This  bird  [Platalca  ajaja)  is  considered  by  orni- 
thologists one  of  the  most  valuable  of  the  whole  fea- 
thered race,  not  only  on  account  of  its  extreme  rarity,  but 
also  for  the  magnificence  of  its  plumage,  and  the  singu- 
larity of  its  formation.  The  general  plumage  of  the  adult 
spoonbill  is  of  a  light  rose  color,  while  the  feathers  of  its 
wing-coverts  are  mantled  with  a  beautiful  crimson.  The 
beak  of  the  bird  is  from  four  to  six  inches  in  length,  and 
its  shape  is  very  much  like  that  of  a  spoon.  It  is  from 
this  fact  that,  its  generic  name  of  Spoonbill  is  derived.  It 
builds  its  nest  in  trees,  and  lives  mostly  upon  fish  and 
snails.  In  its  habits  it  is  solitary,  and  is  seldom  seen  in 
company  with  more  than  a  dozen  of  its  own  species. 
When  caught  while  young,  they  may  easily  be  domesti- 
cated, but  they  are  not  very  interesting  in  captivity,  and 
their  flesh  is  tough  and  of  a  disagreeable  flavor.  Besides, 
like  all  other  beautiful  creatures  upon  whose  creation 
nature  has  been  particularly  lavish  of  her  skill,  they  soon 
droop  and  fade  in  confinement,  and  lose  for  ever  those  celes- 
tial dyes  with  which  the  God  of  Nature  has  favored  them. 
Walking  on  we  soon  reached  the  borders  of  the  forest, 
which  we  skirted  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  under  the 
shade  of  the  overhanging  tree-tops,  until  finally  we 
entered  a  narrow  passage  which  led  away  like  a  natu- 
ral gallery  to  our  right. 


126  PARA. 

Like  all  the  forest  pathways  of  Brazil,  this  was  com- 
pletely arched  overhead  by  the  meeting  of  the  heavy 
branches,  while  the  bright  rays  of  the  sun  struggling 
through  the  diamond-like  interstices  of  the  clustering 
foliage,  fell  upon  the  ground  in  a  luminous  network 
of  dancing  gems. 

*'  Was  ever  anything  so  transcendently  beautiful  ?" 
exclaimed  J .,  in  a  transport  of  delight ;  "  it  almost  makes 
one  fancy  himself  wandering  about  the  gardens  of  the 
Hesperides !  Truly,  how  inadequate  an  idea  have  our 
northern  friends  of  the  indescribable  loveliness  of  the 
torrid  zone  !  They  would  think  themselves  in  paradise 
if  suddenly  transported  hither  !" 

"  You  are  right,"  replied  I ;  "  nothing  I  am  sure  could 
afibrd  our  friends  greater  pleasure  than  a  glimpse  of  this 
charming  island,  everything  is  so  dream-like  and  beauti- 
ful !  Besides,  how  sweet  and  delicious  is  the  climate, — 
how  full  of  life  and  happiness  everything  appears;  under 
proper  jurisdiction  and  culture,  methinks  it  might  indeed 
be  made  a  '  heaven  on  earth.'  " 

The  conversation  now  turned  on  the  trees  and  plants 
of  the  forest,  on  which  subjects  Senhor  Anzevedo 
gave  us  not  a  little  valuable  and  interesting  infor- 
mation. 

What  a  magnificent  country  Brazil  must  appear  to 
the  botanist !  On  every  side  thousands  of  singular  plants 
and  flowers  are  continually  presented  to  his  eye  ;  and  as 
he  looks  onward  he  is  amazed  at  the  boundless  and 


PARA.  12Y 

untrodden  fields  of  scientific  research  that  stretch  out  in 
endless  luxuriance  before  him. 

The  family  of  palms  alone  presents  an  extensive  subject 
for  his  investigation.  Of  this  genus  more  than  sixty  dis- 
tinct species  are  known  to  exist  in  the  province  of  Para. 
It  has  been  remarked  by  a  distinguished  botanist,  that 
"  The  palms  constitute  the  most  interesting  race  in  the 
whole  vegetable  kingdom,  whether  we  consider  the  majes- 
tic aspect  of  their  towering  stems,  crowned  by  a  gigantic 
foliage — the  character  of  grandeur  which  they  impress 
'  upon  the  landscape  of  the  countries  they  inhabit, — their 
immense  value  to  mankind,  as  affording  food,  raiment, 
and  numerous  objects  of  economical  importance, — or, 
finally,  the  prodigious  development  of  these  organs  by 
which  their  race  is  propagated." 

Says  Mr.  Kidder :  "  They  grow  in  every  altitude,  from 
the  deep  valley  to  the  mountain  top.  They  inhabit 
every  locality,  from  the  ocean  beach  to  the  depths  of  the 
impenetrable  forest.  Not  a  few  of  them  make  glad  the 
barren  and  solitary  desert  by  their  cheerful  and  beauteous 
aspect,  while  their  size  varies  from  the  diameter  of  half 
an  inch,  to  that  of  three  and  even  five  feet." 

The  Brazil  nut  tree  {Bertholletia  excelsa)  may  justly 
command  the  attention  of  the  enthusiastic  naturalist. 
This  tree  thrives  well  in  the  province,  and  immense 
quantities  of  its  delicious  fruit  are  annually  exported  to 
foreio-n  countries.  It  grows  to  the  height  of  from  fifty 
to  eiofhty  feet,  and  in  appearance   is   one  of  the   most 


128  PARA.     - 

majestic  ornaments  of  the  forest.  The  fruit  in  its  natural 
condition  resembles  a  cocoa-nut,  being  extremely  hard, 
and  of  about  the  size  of  a  child's  head.  Each  one  of 
these  shells  contains  from  twelve  to  twenty  of  the  three- 
cornered  nuts,  nicely  packed  together.  During  the 
season  of  their  falling,  it  is  dangerous  to  enter  the  groves 
where  they  abound,  as  the  force  of  their  descent  is  suffi- 
cient to  capsize  the  strongest  man.  The  natives,  how- 
ever, provide  themselves  with  wooden  bucklers,  which 
they  hold  over  their  heads  while  collecting  the  fruit  from 
the  ground.  In  this  manner  they  are  perfectly  secure 
from  injury. 

The  cocoa  tree,  from  whose  fruit  chocolate  is  manu- 
factured, is  also  a  native  of  this  province.  The  fruit  is  of 
a  green  color  externally,  and  incloses  a  quantity  of  the 
cocoa  nuts,  which  are  covered  by  a  white  glutinous  sub- 
stance, of  delectable  sweetness  to  the  taste. 

The  cannon-ball  tree  also  (Coitroujnta  guianensis) 
will  not  fail  moreover  to  attract  particular  notice.  This 
tree  is  remarkable,  both  for  the  size  and  splendor  of  its 
flowers,  as  well  as  the  magnitude  of  its  fruit.  It  some- 
times reaches  the  height  of  fifty  feet,  and  at  certain  sea- 
sons of  the  year  is  profusely  covered  with  clusters  of  fra- 
grant blossoms,  of  a  beautiful  crimson  hue.  Its  fruit  are 
enormous,  and  being  perfectly  round,  look  very  much 
like  cannon-balls.  Says  an  enthusiastic  French  writer : 
"  Beneath  a  pure  and  dazzling  sky,  gracefulness  is  ever 
united  to  the  magnificence  of  nature ;  there  the  hidden 


129 


streams  only  reveal  their  presence  in  gentle  murmurs,  or 
by  the  silvery  light  that  they  cast  upon  the  rocks,  or  the 
soft  sound  with  which  they  trickle  through  the  grass,  or 
the  increased  verdure  with  which  they  endow  the  plants. 
But  when  the  silence  of  nature  is  broken  by  these  violent 
hurricanes,  which  too  often,  in  the  torrid  zone,  blast  all 
the  hopes  of  the  cultivator,  you  may  hear  the  report  of 
the  fruit  of  the  cannon-ball  tree,  whose  bursting  produces 
an  oft  repeated  echo,  and  resembles  the  rolling  fire  of  a 
discharge  of  artillery." 

On — on,  we  pressed,  and  deeper  and  deeper  became 
the  twilight  of  the  forest.  Gigantic  were  the  trees  which 
towered  around  us,  and  interlaced  thickly  by  a  multitude 
of  creeping  vines.  Strange  shrubs  too,  of  singularly  fan- 
tastic forms  and  prodigious  dimensions,  lifted  up  their 
heads  on  every  side,  while  thousands  of  splendid  flowers 
glittered  like  stars  amid  the  foliage,  imparting  their  in- 
toxicating fragrance  to  the  air. 

"Near  here," said  Anzevedo,  "a  full-grown  onca  was 
killed  by  some  of  the  natives,  a  few  days  since.  He  was 
a  savage  fellow,  and  gave  his  assailants  considerable 
sport." 

"  Indeed,"  replied  J.,  "  I  was  not  aware  that  these 
fierce  animals  were  found  on  Marajo — pray  are  they 
abundant  ?" 

"  Yes,"  answered  Anzevedo,  "  these  oncas,  or  jaguars, 
as  they  are  sometimes  called,  are  quite  numerous  on  the 
island,  and  are  killed  in  great  numbers  by  the  natives,  for 
6* 


180  PARA. 

the  sake  of  their  handsomely  marked  skins,  which  meet 
with  a  ready  sale  in  the  city.  When  properly  dressed 
they  make  very  pretty  and  ornamental  saddle-cloths. 

"  The  animal  I  alluded  to,  was  attacked  while  up  in  a 
tall  tree,  which  fortunately  was  so  far  separated  from  the 
surrounding  ones,  that  it  would  have  been  no  easy  matter 
for  the  animal  to  have  escaped.  Several  of  the  natives 
boldly  climbed  up  the  trunk,  and  after  a  short  period  of 
hard  fighting  among  the  wide-spreading  branches  of  the 
tree,  they  succeeded  in  vanquishing  their  infuriated 
enemy,  by  means  of  the  long  and  sharp-pointed  javelins 
with  which  they  were  provided.  They  then  threw  him 
down,  and  he  was  carried  to  Jungcal  and  skinned." 

"  But  do  not  these  animals  sometimes  attack  the 
natives,  while  they  are  alone  in  the  forest  ?"  inquired  J. 

"  No,  I  have  never  heard  of  a  single  instance,"  replied 
Anzevedo,  "  of  their  having  made  an  unprovoked  assault 
upon  one  of  the  human  species,  although  they  often 
make  bloody  onslaughts  upon  the  cattle  during  their  mid- 
night wanderings.  They  are  naturally  very  ferocious, 
and  always  make  savage  resistance  when  attacked  by 
either  man  or  beast.  The  natives  have  very  little  fear 
of  them,  and  I  have  known  instances  of  their  having  been 
captured  and  strangled  to  death,  simply  by  throwing  a 
lasso  around  their  necks,  and  drawing  the  noose  instantly 
as  tight  as  possible." 

We  were  now  walking  noiselessly  along  through  a 
dark  and  narrow  avenue  of  the  forest,  when  suddenly,  an 


PARA.  '  131 

uproar,  as  awful  as  mortal  ear  ever  listened  to,  burst  like 
a  tornado  upon  our  ears.  So  loud  and  horrible  was  it, 
that  for  some  moments  we  were  unable  to  utter  a  syllable 
— so  great  was  our  astonishment ! 

"  What  is  the  meaning  of  this  terrible  uproar  ?"  at  last 
J.  recovered  sufficient  self-possession  to  ejaculate. 

"  Nothing  at  all,"  said  Anzevedo,  "  except  a  pack  of 
'  guaribas,'  or  howling  monkeys,  who  have  been  startled 
from  their  slumbers  by  our  approach.  They  are  quite 
harmless,  notwithstanding  their  huge  size,  demon-like 
aspect,  and  diabolical  voices.  We  are  frequently  awak- 
ened at  night  by  their  unearthly  yells,  which,  breaking 
upon  the  deep  silence  of  midnight,  are  terrible  beyond 
description.  You  will,  doubtless,  have  an  opportunity  of 
hearing  several  of  their  nocturnal  serenades,  before  you 
take  your  leave  of  Jungcal." 

"  I  certainly  hope  not,"  responded  J.,  "  the  concert  we 
have  just  now  had  from  them,  is  amply  sufficient  to 
satisfy  my  curiosity." 

The  guaribas  are  of  an  exceedingly  large  size,  and  are 
covered  with  a  shaggy  coat  of  long  black  hair.  To  add 
to  the  intensity  of  their  ugliness,  their  visages  are  sup- 
plied with  whiskers  of  an  enormous  size,  which  give  them 
truly  a  most  frightful  as  well  as  formidable  appear- 
ance! 

The  Preacher-monkey  seems  allied  to  this  species. 
He  is  so  called  from  the  well  authenticated  fact,  that  he 
sometimes  climbs  up  to  the  top  of  a  lofty  tree,  and  there 


132  PARA. 

J  reaches  after  his  manner,  for  the  edification  of  his 
monkey  congregation,  who  in  hundreds  surround  the 
biseof  the  tree!  It  is  said  tliat  as  soon  as  he  has 
finished  his  part,  the  choir  and  audience  who  have  been 
quietly  hstening  to  his  eloquence  from  below,  now  burst 
simultaneously  into  a  melodious  chorus,  which  can  only 
be  likened  to  the  roaring  of  mad  bulls  and  the  squealing 
of  mad  pigs  combined  !  Order  being  again  restored,  the 
orator  resumes  his  harangue  ! 

Besides  these  sable  howlers,  there  are  several  other 
species  of  monkeys  found  in  Marajo,  some  of  which, 
so  far  from  being  hideous,  are  on  the  contrary  quite 
pleasing  in  their  appearance. 

Returning  to  Jungcal,  we  encountered  and  killed  a 
strange  looking  animal  in  the  woods,  called  a  guano.  A 
more  ludicrous,  and  at  the  same  time  apparently  fero- 
cious object,  was  never  seen.  It  was  not  far  from  three 
feet  in  length,  and  of  a  deep  green  color  throughout. 
As  soon  as  it  beheld  us,  it  neither  ran  nor  made  any 
noise,  but  stood  gazing  at  us  with  great  astonishment, 
raising  the  indented  and  saw-like  crest  on  its  back,  and 
inflating  the  curious  pouch  under  its  chin  to  a  prodigious 
extent.  It  was  motionless  with  fear,  and  had  it  not  been 
for  its  formidable  appearance  and  gorgon-like  counte- 
nance, we  could  not  have  had  the  heart  to  kill  it. 

The  guanos  are  usually  found  in  rocky  places,  and 
subsist  principally  upon  vegetables  and  insects.  The 
natives  capture  them  with  a  lasso,  and  when  thus  caught, 


PARA.  133 

they  seldom  make  any  effort  to  escape.  When  domesti- 
cated, as  they  sometimes  are,  they  are  very  playful,  and 
display  much  affection  for  their  masters.  Their  flesh  is 
white,  and  is  considered  very  rich  and  nutritious. 

On  arriving  at  Jungcal  we  learned  that  a  number  of 
the  natives  had  been  out  on  the  campo  in  quest  of  wild 
cattle,  and  that  as  the  horsemen  were  fording  a  certain 
stream,  an  immense  alligator  had  seized  hold  of  one 
of  the  finest  horses,  and  bit  off  two  of  its  legs.  The  poor 
animal  died  shortly  after,  yet  the  natives  spoke  as  uncon- 
cernedly about  it  as  if  such  accidents  were  of  daily  occur- 
rence. 

During  the  afternoon  we  lolled  in  our  hammocks,  and 
entertained  ourselves  with  reading  and  conversation.  In 
the  evening  we  witnessed  an  amusing  dancing  fandango, 
in  which  most  of  the  natives  and  slaves  participated.  The 
affair  took  place  upon  the  broad  green  sward  fronting 
the  cottages,  and  no  artificial  illumination  could  have 
equalled  that  which  the  effulgent  queen  of  night  then 
afforded ! 


:^-i 


134  PARA. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Excursion  down  the  Stream. — Novel  mode  of  "  raising  Cattle." 
— The  Kingfisher.  —  Singular  Adventure  with  a  Troop  of 
Monkeys. — Serious  Conflict. — Parrots. — Conversation  about 
them.— Marvellous  Stories. 

Our  next  excursion  was  down  the  streamlet,  to  the  spot 
where  the  schooner  was  moored,  and  was  undertaken 
principally  for  the  purpose  of  witnessing  a  "  novel  mode 
of  raising  cattle."  At  seven  o'clock  we  got  under  weigh. 
The  current  was  strong,  and  the  tide  had  just  begun  to 
flow.  Our  canoe,  therefore,  glided  down  the  stream 
with  great  velocity,  while  all  our  paddling  skill  was 
called  in  requisition,  in  order  to  keep  the  boat  free  of  the 
numerous  snags  with  which  the  stream  was  bountifully 
supplied. 

Acting  in  the  capacity  of  pilot,  the  writer  was  seated 
in  the  stern,  provided  with  a  paddle  of  huge  dimensions. 
J.  was  snugly  ensconced  in  the  forward  part  of  the  canoe, 
and  with  his  faithful  gun  in  his  hand,  was  looking  eagerly 
ahead  for  the  appearance  of  game. 

During  our  brief  voyage  my  companion  shot  a  couple 
of  bright  humming-birds,  and  several  small  kingfishers 
of  shining  plumage.     The  latter  were  continually  flitting 


PARA.  1S5 

with  meteor-like  quickness,  up  and  down  the  sudden 
turnings  and  windings  of  the  streams,  or  sitting  upon 
little  dry  twigs  jutting  out  over  the  water,  watching 
patiently  to  pounce  upon  any  of  the  finny  tribe  who 
should  be  so  unfortunate  in  their  innocence  as  to  swim 
below. 

Of  the  kingfishers  there  are  many  species,  some  of 
which  are  but  little  larger  than  a  good  sized  humming- 
bird, while  the  largest  of  the  genus  is  above  twelve 
inches  in  length.  Their  plumage  in  general  is  extremely 
fine ;  of  a  rich  emerald  hue,  variegated  in  some  species 
with  purple,  yellow,  and  white. 

Among  the  ancients  the  kingfisher  was  an  object  of 
much  respect  and  admiration.  With  the  poets  he  was 
an  especial  favorite,  doubtless  because  like  love-lorn  swains 
he  lived  amid  the  shadows  of  romantic  groves,  and  was 
always  found  in  the  vicinity  of  rippling  streams  and  mur- 
muring cascades.  By  some  it  was  superstitiously  sup- 
posed that  this  bird  exercised  a  controlling  influence  over 
the  winds  and  waves — hence  the  origin  of  its  antique 
name  of  "  Halcyon,"  and  of  those  days  of  unusual  still- 
ness, which  were  poetically  termed  "  Halcyon  days."  On 
these  days  the  kingfishers  are  particularly  industrious, 
for  the  reason  probably  that  the  purity  of  the  atmosphere 
and  the  slightness  of  evaporation  from  the  surface  of  the 
water,  promise  extraordinary  success  in  their  piscatory 
operations. 

Arri\dng  alongside  of  the  schooner,  Gaviono  assisted 


136  PARA. 

US  on  board,  and  manifested  as  much  pleasure  at  seeing 
us  again,  as  if  we  had  been  separated  from  each  other 
for  several  months.  Taking  us  into  the  cabin,  he  gave 
each  of  us  a  gourd-shell,  filled  with  sweet  beverage  of  a 
red  color,  which  we  found  quite  delicious.  It  was  pre- 
pared from  the  berries  of  the  assahy  trees,  so  much 
esteemed  by  those  bird-epicures,  the  toucans ! 

Soon  after  our  arrival  the  operation  of  taking  the  cattle 
on  board  was  commenced.     They  were  all  assembled 
together  in  a  large  pen,  made  on  the  margin  of  a  preci- 
pitous bank,  and  completely  surrounded  by  the  forest. 
There  they  were  !  about  fifty  of  the  infuriated  animals, 
running  frantically  from  one  side  of  the  inclosure  to  the 
other,  seeking  in  vain  for  some  avenue   by  which  to 
escape,  and  bellowing  all  the  time  most  furiously.      The 
natives  were  stationed  on  the  outside  of  the  pen,  engaged 
in  forcing  the  cattle  one  by  one  into  the  water,  by  the  aid 
of  lassos  and  long  poles.     As  soon  as  one  of  the  animals 
had  been  driven  over  the  bank  into  the  water,  the  end 
of  the  lasso  was  thrown  to  those  on  board  the  schooner, 
who  drew  the  animal  gradually  up  alongside.     A  stronger 
noose  was  then  thrown  around  his  horns,  and  the  lasso 
taken  off.     By  means  of  a  powerful  pulley  firmly  secured 
aloft,  and  by  the  united  strength  of  a  dozen  stalwart 
natives  pulling  at  the  end  of  the  rope,  the  huge  ani- 
mal was  then  raised  slowly  up  into   the  air,  and  let 
down  gently  into  the  hold  of  the  vessel.      The  whole 
number  were  individually  taken  on  board  in  this  manner. 


137 


Much  as  we  pitied  the  poor  animals  as  they  hung 
suspended  in  the  air,  their  eyes  horribly  dilated  and 
every  muscle  stretched  to  its  utmost  capacity,  yet  we 
could  hardly  refrain  from  laughing  at  this  ridiculous 
mode  of  raising  them. 

At  length  we  bade  farewell  to  Gaviono  and  his  swarthy 
crew  (who  were  to  set  sail  for  the  city  on  the  following 
morning),  and  started  ofi'  in  our  little  craft  to  return 
to  Jungcal.  While  gliding  through  a  narrow  passage  of 
the  stream,  the  banks  of  which  were  covered  by  a  dark 
forest,  we  heard  distinctly  the  chattering  of  monkeys 
among  the  trees. 

"  Do  you  hear  that  ?"  said  J.  "  Monkeys,  by  heavens  ! 
I  believe  I'll  go  ashore  and  give  those  rascals  a  shot." 

"  Well,  I  think  you  had  better  do  so,"  I  replied  ;  "  and 
in  the  meantime  I  will  remain  to  take  charge  of  the  boat 
until  you  return,  unless  my  services  should  be  needed." 

Guiding  the  canoe  into  a  small  cove,  my  companion 
jumped  quietly  ashore,  and  with  his  gun  in  his  right 
hand,  walked  silently  into  the  woods.  For  a  few 
moments  a  deep  silence  reigned  over  this  beautiful  soli- 
tude, unbroken  scarcely  by  the  note  of  a  bird  or  the 
buzzing  of  an  insect.  Attentively  I  listened  for  the 
slightest  sound,  the  faintest  murmur,  the  merest  chirp, 
anything  to  relieve  the  sense  of  profound  and  overpower- 
ing stillness,  when  suddenly  two  loud  reports  following 
each  other  in  rapid  succession,  broke  with  startling  vio- 
lence upon  my  ear. 


138  PARA. 

In  a  moment  the  woods  were  alive  with  the  piercing 
cries  of  a  thousand  monkeys,  and  above  the  uproar  I 
heard  the  shrill  voice  of  my  companion,  calling  upon  me 
to  come  to  his  assistance.  Securing  the  boat  as  quickly 
as  possible,  I  seized  my  gun  and  rushed  into  the  woods. 
I  was  soon  alongside  of  J.,  who,  to  my  infinite  surprise, 
was  entirely  encompassed  by  hundreds  of  monkeys, 
while  many  others  were  rapidly  coming  down  from  the 
neighboring  trees.  Not  at  all  intimidated,  he  was  knock- 
ing the  savage  animals  aside  with  the  butt  of  his  gun, 
while  they  were  screaming  and  gnashing  their  teeth 
together  at  a  terrible  rate,  and  were  evidently  bent  upon 
revenging  the  loss  of  several  of  their  companions. 

It  would  be  utterly  impossible  for  my  humble  pen 
to  do  justice  to  this  exciting  scene, — to  paint  the  wild 
magnificence  of  the  foliage  which  enveloped  us, — the 
consternation  of  the  writer,  and  the  intrepidity  of  J. 
while  in  the  midst  of  this  ferocious  gang  of  monkeys  ;  to 
us  at  least,  it  was  a  spectacle  never  to  be  forgotten. 

Firing  both  my  barrels  at  the  monkeys,  where  they 
were  most  thickly  congregated,  they  dispersed  and  fled 
in  all  directions,  nor  did  they  think  proper  to  make  ano- 
ther attack.  Picking  up  the  dead  from  the  field  of 
battle,  we  returned  with  them  to  the  canoe,  and  having 
resumed  our  seats,  we  were  shortly  in  motion  once 
more. 

We  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  when  a  flock 
of  paroquets  chattering  boisterously,  flew  over  our  heads, 


PARA.  139 

and  alighted  upon  the  branches  of  a  hixuriant  guava 
tree,  which  droopingly  hung  its  branches  over  the  water. 
Our  bloodthirsty  feelings  being  now  well  roused  by  our 
recent  conflict,  we  meditated  further  destruction,  and 
slowly  and  silently  approached  the  tree  where  the  parrots 
were  noisily  feeding.  On  account  of  the  density  of  the 
foliage,  and  the  green  plumage  of  the  birds,  we  were 
unable  to  see  a  single  one,  notwithstanding  there  were 
several  hundreds  in  the  tree.  We  therefore  reserved  our 
fire  until  we  had  arrived  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
spot,  when  we  suddenly  started  up  and  gave  a  loud 
shout.  Frightened  by  the  sound,  the  birds  flew  out  of 
the  tree  in  a  body,  and  immediately  our  four  barrels  were 
discharged  into  the  very  heart  of  the  flock.  The  devas- 
tation was  immense ;  at  least  a  dozen  dropt  upon  the 
shore,  while  full  as  many  fell  lifeless  into  the  water.  The 
birds  were  quite  small,  of  a  light-gi-een  plumage,  with 
their  shoulders  tinged  with  a  bright  shade  of  yellow. 

"  This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  paroquets  I  ever  saw," 
said  J.,  taking  up  one  of  the  birds  in  his  hands ;  "  its  plu- 
mage is  so  delicate,  its  shape  so  symmetrical,  and  besides 
I  think  I  never  saw  a  parrot  with  a  more  agreeable  phy- 
siognomy." 

"  It  is  exceedingly  pretty,"  I  replied,  "  and  very  much 
resembles  the  one  which  Anzevedo  has  alive.  Is  it  not 
astonishing  how  much  he  is  attached  to  that  little  bird  ? 
He  feeds  it  as  regularly  as  he  takes  his  own  meals,  and 
seems  to  delight  in  playing  with  it  upon  his  finger.  I  have 


140  PARA.. 

no  doubt  that  that  bird  engrosses  more  of  his  affection 
than  any  human  being  gifted  with  an  immortal  soul. 
Why  is  it  ?  It  must  and  can  only  be  because  he  has 
good  reason  to  distrust  the  latter ;  he  knows  that  the 
love  and  gratitude  of  this  little  creature  are  sincere.  The 
true  friendship  of  our  inferiors  is  far  better  and  more 
desirable  than  the  selfish  and  hypocritical  concern  of 
those  who  are  far  above  us." 

"  A  fig  for  your  sentimentalism  !"  said  J. ;  "  don't  you 

remember  that  famous  parrot  of  Senhor  P 's,  in  the 

city  ?  What  a  feathered  prodigy  he  is  !  Why,  I've 
heard  him  jabber  off  Portuguese  by  the  hour,  and  con- 
verse much  more  fluently  than  either  of  us  are  able  to  do 
at  this  moment." 

"  Oh,  yes,  I  remember  the  bird  well ;  he  is  a  very 
large  specimen,  and  was  brought  down  from  the  Rio 
Negro,  I  believe.  I  heard  him  repeat  one  day  several 
verses  of  poetry,  and  was  astonished  beyond  measure : 
he  is  a  perfect  ornithological  miracle,  and  would  make 
his  fortune  by  visiting  foreign  parts.  His  voice  is  softer 
than  that  of  any  other  I  ever  saw,  and  his  laughter  is  as 
melodious  as  that  of  a  young  girl." 

"  I  have  heard  marvellous  accounts  of  the  longevity  of 
parrots,"  continued  J.  "One  is  mentioned  by  Le  Vail- 
lant,  the  distinguished  French  naturalist,  as  having  lived 
in  a  state  of  domesticity  for  nearly  ninety  years.  When 
seen  by  this  celebrated  individual,  it  was  in  its  dotage, 
having  lost  both  its  sight  and  memory.     In  its  younger 


141 


days  it  had  been  remarkable  for  its  loquacity,  and  was  so 
obliging  in  its  disposition  as  to  call  the  servants,  and 
fetch  its  master's  slippers,  whenever  required." 

"  This  was  certainly  a  wonderful  bird,"  I  replied  ;  "  but 
far  inferior  in  point  of  talent  to  one  carried  to  England 
some  years  ago  by  one  Colonel  O'Kelly.  This  bird  was 
not  only  a  wonder,  but  a  perfect  miracle,  and  was  sold  to 
a  certain  nobleman  for  a  hundred  guineas.  Improba- 
ble as  it  may  seem,  it  is  said  that  this  bird  was  able  to 
express  his  desires  in  an  apparently  rational  manner,  and 
also  to  sing  a  number  of  sonfjs  in  excellent  tune  and 
time.  It  is  further  recorded,  that  if  in  whistling  an  air  it 
accidentally  passed  over  any  note,  it  would  soon  return 
to  the  bar  where  the  oversight  occurred,  and  complete 
the  tune  with  astonishing  accuracy.  Such  birds,  how- 
ever, as  this,  are  extremely  rare  /" 

"  You  may  well  say  they  are  rare,"  responded  J., 
"  but  you  will  forgive  my  incredulity,  I  hope,  when  I  say 
that  I  don't  believe  such  an  accomplished  parrot  ever 
existed.  The  bird  might  have  been  remarkable  for  his 
colloquial  imitations,  but  the  account  of  his  musical 
powers  is  hugely  exaggerated ;  besides,  I  don't  beheve  a 
bird  can  be  susceptible  of  a  rational  idea." 

"  You  are  perfectly  at  liberty  to  disbelieve  what  you 
will,"  I  seriously  answered,  "  respecting  the  mental 
capacity  of  birds;  but  I  have  heard  much  more  extraor- 
dinary stories  of  their  powers  than  that  I  have  just  men- 
tioned to  you,  and  based  on  good  authority  too.    Gesner 


142 


gravely  relates  that  two  nightingales  kept  at  Ratisbon 
spent  whole  nights  in  discoursing  on  politics  ;  and  PHny 
himself  states  that  Germanicus  and  Drusus  educated  one 
so  perfectly,  that  it  delivered  speeches  both  in  Latin  and 
Greek  !" 

"  Well,"  responded  J.,  with  provoking  coolness,  "  I 
have  heard  some  people  speak  of '  fish  stories,'  and  others 
(of  ridiculous  incredulity)  of '  typee  stories,'  but  I,  for  my 
part,  with  more  propriety,  shall  call  every  marvellous 
narration  I  may  hear  henceforth,  '  a  bird  story  !' " 

Our  progress  had  been  so  slow,  and  our  stoppings  so 
frequent,  that  it  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we 
reached  Jungcal.  Being  quite  fatigued  with  our  day's 
adventure,  a  snooze  in  our  hammocks  was  exceedingly 
grateful.  For  a  moment  we  feasted  our  eyes  upon  the 
enchanting  scenery  around,  then  closed  them,  and  while 
a  refreshing  and  fragrant  breeze  was  fanning  our  cheeks, 
we  wandered  far,  far  away,  into  the  beautiful  land  of 
dreams. 


PARA.  143 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Superstition  of  the  Islanders. — Romantic  Story. — The  "  Belles" 
of  Jungcal. — Evening  Salutations. — Skirmish  in  the  Water. — 
An  Angling  Adventure. — An  unexpected  Bath. — The  Fish-ox. 
— Moschltoes  and  Chigoes. — A  dentical  Operation. — Sickness 
of  Teresa. — We  cure  her. — Our  advance  in  popularity. — Last 
Night  at  Jungcal. 

The  natives  at  Jungcal  were  egregiously  superstitious, 
and  firmly  believed  in  the  existence  of  ghosts,  hobgoblins, 
evil  spirits,  and  all  the  varieties  of  supernatural  appari- 
tions. Their  legends  and  stories  were  of  the  wildest  cha- 
racter, and  at  night,  during  the  fine  starlight  evenings, 
they  were  accustomed  to  entertain  us  with  their  nar- 
ration. 

They  told  us  of  beauteous  shades,  who  wandered  by 
midnight  through  the  groves  of  the  island,  and  whose 
melodious  voices,  sweeter  than  the  notes  of  the  night- 
ingale, were  frequently  heard  emanating  from  the  dark- 
ness of  the  clustering  foliage.  They  spoke  also  of  spirits, 
whose  phantom  canoes  were  often  seen  gliding  by  night 
down  the  rippling  streamlet. 

There  was  one  story  which  we  heard  repeated  many 


144 


times,  and  always  with  the  assurance  that  it  was  per- 
fectly true.     It  was  substantially  as  follows  : — 

On  a  pleasant  afternoon,  not  more  than  ten  years 
since,  a  young  lad  of  about  eight  years  of  age,  was 
observed  frolicking  by  himself  on  the  meadow  before  the 
cottages,  and  running  up  and  down  the  margin  of  the 
stream.  Little  heed  was  taken  at  the  time  of  his  motions, 
but  some  two  hours  afterwards,  when  he  was  wanted,  he 
was  not  to  be  found.  It  was  now  within  half  an  hour 
of  sunset,  and  as  may  be  conjectured,  a  certain  degree  of 
uneasiness  and  anxiety  began  to  be  felt  respecting  the 
fate  of  the  child ;  and  these  apprehensions  were  quick- 
ened into  alarm  when  the  horsemen  who  went  out  into 
the  campo  in  all  directions  to  seek  for  him,  returned  with- 
out having  discovered  the  slightest  clue  to  his  extraordi- 
nary disappearance. 

The  parents  of  the  boy  were  wild  with  grief,  and 
believed  that  their  child  had  fallen  into  the  stream,  and 
had  either  been  drowned  or  eaten  up  by  alligators. 

An  awful  stillness  brooded  over  Jungcal  on  the  evening 
of  that  day,  unbroken  by  the  merry  laugh  of  the  natives 
or  the  music  of  their  rude  guitars.  The  silence  of  the 
sepulchre  could  not  have  been  more  profound. 

After  a  dreary  and  sleepless  night,  morning  at  length 
came  as  a  solace  to  the  hearts  of  the  bereaved  parents ; 
but  what  mortal  pen  can  paint  the  intensity  of  joy  which 
animated  their  bosoms,  when  they  beheld  their  lost  and 
lamented  boy,  whom  they  had  wept  for  as  dead,  calmly 


145 


sleeping  on  the  green  sward  before  them,  sheltered  only 
by  the  azure  canopy  of  heaven  ! 

Overcome  with  delight,  each  in  turn  clasped  the  wan- 
derer to  their  bosom,  and  then  bore  him  in  triumph  to 
their  own  habitation.  As  soon  as  he  had  recovered  his 
consciousness,  he  gazed  wildly  about  him,  as  if  just 
awakened  from  a  wondrous  dream.  On  being  asked 
where  he  had  been,  he  told  a  strange  story  of  havi no- 
been  accosted,  as  he  was  walking  along  near  the  bank  of 
the  stream,  by  a  party  of  beautiful  women  in  a  curious 
canoe,  who  carried  him  forcibly  with  them  far  away  up 
the  stream.  They  then  conveyed  him  to  a  "  little  para- 
dise "  in  the  heart  of  the  forest,  where  he  was  surrounded 
by  hundreds  of  charming  maidens,  with  long  dark  hair, 
which  fell  in  dishevelled  folds  almost  to  the  ground. 
The  fairy  damsels,  he  said,  crowned  him  with  garlands 
of  flowers,  offered  him  various  kinds  of  sweetmeats,  and 
nearly  smothered  him  with  their  honeyed  kisses  and 
endearing  caresses.  At  last,  on  his  beseeching  it,  they 
brought  him  back  to  the  very  spot  from  which  he  had 
been  taken.  This  marvellous  account  (which  was  un- 
doubtedly a  dream)  was  strictly  believed  by  the  simple- 
hearted  natives,  whose  unsophisticated  minds  could  not 
conceive  any  other  satisfactory  cause  for  his  mysterious 
departure  and  absence. 

Among  our  olive-complexioned  neighbors  were  two 
young  girls,  whose  fine  forms  and  pretty  faces  especially 
elicited  our  admiration.    The  one  was  named  Teresa,  the 
7 


146  PARA. 

other  Florana.  The  former  could  not  have  been  more 
than  fourteen  years  of  age,  and  was  rather  short  in  sta- 
ture, with  exquisitely  rounded  arms,  and  a  bust  already 
of  noble  development ;  the  latter  was  somewhat  taller, 
and  at  least  three  years  older  ;  they  had  both,  however, 
attained  their  full  size.  Animated  as  they  were  beautiful, 
they  were  always  overflowing  with  vivacity  and  life; 
their  conversation,  which  was  incessant,  was  like  the 
chirping  of  nightingales,  and  their  laughter  dulcet  as 
murmuring  streams.  These  then,  beloved  reader,  were, 
during  our  stay  at  least,  decidedly  the  belles  of 
Jungcal. 

At  the  close  of  every  day  we  were  visited  by  all  the 
juveniles  in  the  place,  who,  in  their  own  sweet  tongue, 
bade  vis  "  adieus,"  and  at  the  same  time  besought  our 
blessing,  which  latter  request  we  only  answered  by 
patting  them  gently  on  the  head. 

The  pretty  maidens  we  have  just  alluded  to,  instead 
of  shaking  hands  with  us,  were  accustomed  to  salute  us 
at  eventide  with  a  kiss  on  either  cheek.  The  propriety 
of  this  we  at  first  doubted,  but  the  more  we  reflected 
upon  the  sweetness  and  innocence  of  the  damsels,  the 
more  inclined  were  we  to  pardon  them.  It  must  be 
borne  in  mind,  however,  that  this  was  a  sacred  custom 
of  the  place,  which  it  would  have  been  considered,  to  say 
the  least,  great  rudeness  in  us  to  have  resisted,  and  to 
tell  the  truth  we  were  not  at  all  so  inclined.  Therefore, 
kind  reader,  do  not  judge  us  too  severely ;  for  know,  O 


PARA.  147 

chary  one  !  that  extreme  bashfulness  and  modesty  have 
always  been  considered  two  of  our  principal  failings  ! 

One  day  Teresa  and  Florana  invited  us  to  take  a  bathe 
with  them  in  the  stream.  This  we  declined  point-blank. 
They  then  charged  us  with  fear  of  alligators.  This  was 
a  poser :  our  courage  was  now  called  in  question,  and  we 
were  literally  forced  to  submit.  Pray  what  else  could 
we  have  done  under  the  circumstances  ? 

When  they  had  once  got  us  into  the  water  the 
maidens  took  ample  revenge  upon  us  for  the  uncourteous 
manner  with  which  we  had  at  first  treated  their  request. 
In  less  than  ten  minutes,  we  cried  lustily  for  quarter,  but 
DO  quarter  would  they  give  us,  insomuch  that  we  were 
somewhat  apprehensive  of  being  drowned  by  them,  to 
say  nothing  of  being  devoured  by  bloodthirsty  alligators. 

Emerging  from  the  water,  we  walked  up  to  Anzevedo's 
cottage,  revolving  in  our  minds  the  severe  ordeal  through 
which  we  had  just  passed,  and  determining  henceforth 
never  to  refuse  any  request,  sweetened  by  the  lips  of  a 
pretty  damsel,  unless,  perchance,  she  should  ask  us  for 
our  heart !  which,  alas !  we  have  not  to  give. 

To  variegate  our  amusements,  we  occasionally  indulged 
in  angling.  My  success,  however,  with  the  gun  was 
seldom  equalled  by  that  of  the  rod.  One  afternoon,  I 
remember,  we  repaired  to  an  adjacent  brook  to  procure 
a  few  delicate  little  fishes  for  supper.  The  spot  was 
singularly  beautiful.  On  either  side  of  the  stream  was  a 
semicircular  area  of  ground,  covered  only  by  a  mantle  of 


148  PARA. 

velvety  grass,  dotted  here  and  there  with  flowering 
bushes.  The  surrounding  trees  were  of  a  prodigious 
height,  and,  with  their  bending  tops,  formed  a  canopy  of 
the  most  Mvely  verdure.  Their  trunks  were  interlaced 
together  by  an  infinity  of  running  vines,  and  their  loftiest 
branches  richly  decorated  with  parasitic  flowers  of  every 
hue. 

Could  a  more  delightful  place  for  piscatory  purposes 
be  desired  !  Having  baited  our  hooks,  and  made  all 
other  preparatory  arrangements,  we  sat  down  on  the 
bank,  and  quietly  dropped  our  hues  into  the  water. 
How  Httle  did  1  surmise  the  sequel  of  this  fishing  adven- 
ture ! — how  painfully  mortifying  the  reminiscence  !  for, 
instead  of  waiting  patiently,  like  a  Job-like  disciple  of 
Isaac  Walton,  I  very  inconsiderately,  and  very  uninten- 
tionally, fell  asleep  !  Yes,  indulgent  reader  !  when  you 
think  of  the  amphitheatre  of  natural  loveliness  which 
encircled  us,  the  deep  solitude  of  the  woods,  the  narcotic 
blandness  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the  monotonous  rip- 
pling of  the  streamlet,  you  cannot  be  much  surprised  at 
this  extraordinary  occurrence,  for  we  ourselves  would 
have  pardoned  even  Argus  under  similar  circumstances, 
should  he  have  closed  his  hundred  eyes  and  slept. 

From  my  state  of  unconsciousness  I  was  suddenly 
awakened  by  sliding  off  the  bank  into  the  stream.  What 
a  damper  upon  further  proceedings  !  Alligators  I  knew 
were  abundant ;  so  I  scrambled  up  the  bank  as  expedi- 
tiously as  possible,  and  soon  after  returning  to  Jungcal,  I 


149 


comforted  myself  with  the  assurance  that,  although  I 
had  caught  no  fish,  yet  I  had  secured  an  excellent  bath. 

My  companion  was  much  more  fortunate,  having  suc- 
ceeded in  capturing  as  handsome  a  string  of  tish  as  ever 
met  the  eye  of  a  happy  angler.  They  were  of  various 
sizes,  odd  shapes,  and  many  colors ;  some  were  of  red 
and  yellow,  while  others  were  mottled  with  tints  of  gold 
and  purple,  and  their  transparent  scales  glistened  in  the 
sunshine  like  plates  of  burnished  metals. 

The  Brazilian  streams  have  many  strange  inhabitants. 
Besides  their  numerous  alligators,  amphibious  serpents, 
tapirs,  and  others,  there  is  a  monstrous  kind  of  fish 
called  the  "  peixe-boi"  or  fish-ox,  which  is  as  remarkable 
as  any  of  the  others.  It  is,  perhaps,  the  largest  of  all 
fresh-water  fish,  measuring  sometimes  above  seventeen 
feet  in  length.  The  general  appearance  of  its  head 
bears  some  resemblance  to  that  of  a  calf.  Its  eyes  are 
exceedingly  small,  and  the  orifices  of  its  ears  so  fine  that 
they  can  scarcely  be  discerned  even  by  the  most  careful 
observer.  The  skin  looks  like  india-rubber,  and  is  so 
tough  that  it  is  almost  invulnerable. 

This  curious  animal  derives  its  subsistence  principally 
from  a  certain  plant  which  grows  in  the  water.  It 
occasionally  raises  its  head  above  the  surface  for  the 
purpose  of  respiration,  and  it  is  at  such  times  that  it  is 
captured.  The  Indians  formerly  made  shields  of  its 
tenacious  hide,  and  its  fiesh  is  considered  an  excellent 
substitute  for  beef. 


150  PARA. 

Without  question,  the  most  serious  drawback  to  our 
pleasures  at  Jungcal  was  the  very  great  fecundity  of 
pernicious  insects  which  swarmed  amid  the  moist  shades 
of  the  forest,  and  flitted  in  the  warm  sunshine  of  the 
campos. 

Besides  being  numerous,  the  mosquitoes  were  unusu- 
ally mischievous,  and  moreover  quite  corpulent.  Many 
fell  victims  to  our  wrath,  but  our  wanton  destruction  of 
so  many  valuable  lives  served  only  to  excite  the  others 
to  revenge  the  loss  of  their  companions.  Detested 
gallinipers !  Had  it  not  been  for  them  we  might 
possibly  have  lost  sight  of  our  own  mortality  in  contem- 
plation of  the*Eden-hke  luxuries  and  delights  which  sur- 
rounded us. 

We  experienced,  also,  considerable  annoyance  from  a 
small  insect  known  as  the  "  chigoe"  or  jigger.  This 
insect  is  so  extremely  diminutive  that  it  is  seldom 
observed.  Having  pierced  the  flesh  of  a  person,  it 
deposits  its  eggs  (which  are  contained  in  a  little  sac), 
and  there  leaves  them  to  their  natural  development. 
The  sac  rapidly  increases  in  size,  until  it  becomes  as 
large  as  a  common  pea,  when  it  begins  to  occasion  a 
sensible  degree  of  pain.  On  first  feeling  this  disagree- 
able sensation,  the  bag  ought  to  be  carefully  extracted, 
otherwise  a  troublesome  sore  is  apt  to  be  produced. 

We  observed  that  the  feet  of  the  natives  were  sadly 
mangled,  owing  to  their  rough  manner  of  cutting  out 
these  sacs.     The  feet  are  more  subject  to   the  attacks 


151 


of  these  insects  than  any  otlier  part  of  the  body,  and  wo 
noticed  that  in  some  instances  the  heels  of  the  natives 
were  ahnost  entirely  gone. 

A  dentical  ofjeration  which  we  saw  one  day  per- 
formed, we  can  only  think  of  with  horror.  The  patient 
was  a  poor  old  slave,  decrepit,  and  grey-headed.'  For 
some  weeks  past  he  had  been  a  martyr  to  the  agonies  of 
the  toothache,  and  had  at  last  resolved  to  have  the  offen- 
sive grinder  extracted  :  for  this  purpose  he  applied  to  a 
tall,  brawny  mulatto,  who  was  something  of  a  barber, 
dentist,  and  sailor  combined. 

Having  mutilated  his  victim's  gums  in  a  barbarous 
manner  with  a  rusty  knife,  he  placed  his  miserable  turn- 
key upon  his  tooth,  and,  with  a  savage  wrench,  suc- 
ceeded in  breaking  off  a  portion  of  it,  which  he  triumph- 
antly exposed  to  the  gaze  of  the  sufferer.  Again  and 
again  he  placed  his  turnkey  upon  the  tooth,  each  time 
breaking  off  another  small  piece.  At  last  he  gave  up 
in  despair,  being  unable  to  get  out  the  deeply-embedded 
fongs.  But  never  can  I  forget  the  agonizing  look  of 
that  venerable  slave  during  the  whole  operation, 
although  no  shrieks,  or  groans,  or  murmurs  of  disap- 
probation broke  from  his  lips ;  at  the  close,  a  half-sup- 
pressed sigh  only  fell  upon  our  ears-  For  weeks  after- 
wards his  face  was  dreadfully  swollen,  and  he  was  in  far 
greater  pain  than  he  had  been  before. 

One  day  the  black-eyed  and  charming  Teresa  was 
taken  ill  of  a  fever.      There   were   no   doctors  on   the 


152 


island,  and  we  were  fearful  lest  our  Indian  favorite 
might  be  suddenly  taken  away  to  the  spirit-land.  Our 
grief  was  uncontrollable,  and  we  languished  and  pined 
away  in  the  bitterness  of  our  heart ! 

Some  of  the  natives  were  preparing  a  superstitious 
decoction  of  grated  bones,  deer's  horns,  and  other 
strange  ingredients,  when  we  interfered,  and  besought 
the  privilege  of  administering  to  the  fever-smitten 
damsel  ourselves.  Our  request  was  immediately 
granted,  and  forthwith  Teresa  became  our  patient. 
What  medicines  we  gave  her,  or  in  what  manner  we 
treated  her  complaint,  we  will  not  fatigue  the  reader  by 
relating.  In  the  space  of  a  week  Teresa  was  so  far 
recovered  that  she  was  able  to  walk  out  and  enjoy  the 
sweet  breezes  which  blew  freshly  over  the  island  at  both 
morning  and  evening. 

After  this  astonishing  cure,  as  may  be  supposed,  our- 
selves and  medicines  were  in  great  repute.  We  had 
risen  at  least  fifty  per  cent,  in  the  opinion  of  the  natives, 
who  seemed  to  regard  us  somewhat  in  the  light  of  a 
couple  of  necromancers  or  magicians.  Our  pills  and 
other  panaceas  were  sought  after  with  such  eagerness 
that  our  supply  was  soon  exhausted.  When  this  fact 
was  made  known,  the  decrease  in  the  number  of  invalids 
was  strikingly  manifest. 

Sad  were  we  when  we  took  our  last  supper  at  Jung- 
cal.  Early  on  the  morrow  J.  and  myself  were  to 
separate  for  a  brief  season.     An  English  naturalist,  who 


PARA.  153 

had  been  for  some  time  engaged  in  collecting  specimens 
at  Cajueiro,  in  the  interior  of  the  island,  had  come 
down  in  his  canoe  for  the  purpose  of  escorting  me 
thither.  My  companion  was  about  to  depart  for  the 
city,  and  weeks  were  to  elapse  before  we  should  meet 
again. 


1* 


154 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

Departure  for  Cajueiro. — Character  of  my  Companion. — Scenery 
of  the  Stream  by  Starlight. — A  beautiful  Arbor. — Anecdote 
of  an  Alligator. — Arrival  at  Cajueiro. 

Long  before  the  sun  had  tinged  with  hght  the  dew- 
drops  of  the  forest  we  left  Juncal,  and  were  paddling 
by  the  pale  light  of  the  stars  up  the  arbored  and  intri- 
cate windings  of  the  stream. 

We  were  alone,  and  almost  perfect  strangers  to  each 
other.  My  companion  was  a  young  man,  possessed  of 
an  ardent  love  for  nature,  who  had  left  his  native  country 
a  year  or  two  previous,  in  order  that  he  might  make 
himself  acquainted  with  the  different  birds  and  animals 
which  inhabit  the  vast  and  luxuriant  forests  of  Brazil. 

He  was  of  a  poetical  temperament,  and  was  wont  to 
look  at  everything  with  the  eye  of  an  enthusiast.  He 
had,  moreover,  assiduously  cultivated  the  finer  senti- 
ments with  which  nature  had  gifted  him,  and  was  well 
aware  of  the  exquisite  dehghts  which  spring  from  a  refined 
fancy  and  well-regulated  imagination.  Any  one  of  a 
reflecting  disposition  must  perceive  that  nothing  is  so  apt 
to  pervert  the  judgment,  reduce  the  standard  of  apprecia- 
tion, and  result  in   grovelling   materialism,  as  a  total 


PARA.  155 

neglect  in  early  life  of  these  nobler  faculties  of  the 
mind. 

Our  young  Englishman  was  aware  of  this  fact,  and 
had  educated  himself  accordingly.  The  result  of  such  a 
course  of  intellectual  training  was  palpably  manifest  in 
bis  character,  which  was  rather  of  a  romantic  turn,  and 
inclined  to  perceive  beauty  in  all  the  works  of  nature,  and 
to  regard  even  the  evils  and  sorrows  of  life  as  but  passing 
clouds,  which  cast  their  dark  shadows  before,  only  that 
they  may  intensify  the  coming  sunshine. 

To  a  mind  constituted  like  this,  how  beautiful  does 
the  world  appear — how  magnificent — how  grand — how 
perfect !  Objects  are  not  viewed  according  to  their  pro- 
portionate size  or  value,  but  everything  is  regarded  as 
inestimable,  because  it  is  the  result  of  a  consummate  skill 
which  deties  imitation — the  proof  of  an  infinite  wisdom 
too  deep  to  be  fixthomed  or  comprehended  by  the 
utmost  stretch  of  the  human  understanding. 

Such  was  my  companion,  who  was  now  journeying 
with  me  up  the  streamlet,  towards  Cajueiro,  in  the  misty 
twilight  of  opening  day  ! 

Who  could  avoid  being  impressed  with  emotions  of 
the  solemn  and  sublime,  at  such  a  time  and  on  such  an 
occasion  ?  Stillness  equal  to  that  of  the  sepulchre, 
brooded  over  the  enchanting  scene,  abruptly  broken  at 
intervals  by  the  hootings  of  owls  or  the  voices  of  other 
nocturnal   birds.      Now   the   grassy  table-land   would 


156  PARA. 

extend  away  for  miles  to  our  left,  dotted  here  and  there 
with  solitary  trees,  shaking  their  branches  mournfully, 
and  looking  like  spectres  in  the  solemn  starlight.  On  the 
other  side  a  gloomy  yet  s])lendid  wilderness  ran  along 
the  margin  of  the  stream,  flinging  its  tall  shadows  across 
the  water,  and  adding  grandeur  to  the  witching  land- 
scape. As  we  advanced,  the  brook  gradually  narrowed, 
and  became  more  and  more  crooked  and  serpentine  in  its 
course,  until,  finally,  the  thick  clustering  foliage  met  in  a 
prolonged  arch  of  verdure  over  our  heads. 

"While  winding  through  this  natural  labyrinth,  the  sun 
suddenly  emerged  from  the  golden  East,  and  besprinkled 
us  with  a  shower  of  luminous  beams,  which  trembhng 
throuo-h  the  interstices   of  the  leaves,  seemed  like  the 
spirits  of  so  many  diamonds  !      A  more  divine  spectacle 
of  beauty  never  was  beheld.     The  most  gorgeous  crea- 
tions of  the  poet's  imagination,  if  realized,  could  not  sur- 
pass in  magnificence  this  sun-lighted  arbor,  with  its  roses 
and  flowers  of  varied  hues,  all  set  like  stars  in  a  canopy 
of  green.      Sprightly  humming-birds  flitted  before  us, 
sparkling  like  jewels  for  a  moment,  than  vanishing  away 
from  our  sight  for  ever.    Butterflies  with  immense  wings, 
and  moths  of  gay  and  striking  colors,  flew   also  from 
flower  to  flower,  seeming  like  fairy  tenants  of  the  lonely 
paradise  around  us.      But  the  indefatigable  musquitoes, 
•who  were  continually  pouncing  upon  the  unprotected 
flesh  of  our  faces  and  hands,  as  well  as  the  mailed  cay- 


157 


mans,  who  now  and  then  phmged  under  our  canoo  with 
a  terrific  snort,  kept  up  a  vivid  conviction  in  our  minds  of 
our  own  mortahty. 

As  we  were  moving  through  a  wider  passage  of  the 
stream,  a  sudden  noise  in  the  bushes  on  our  left  arrested 
our  attention  ;  in  a  moment  after  we  perceived  a  large 
animal  running  along  the  banks  of  the  stream  as 
expeditiously  as  he  was  able.  We  immediately  raised 
our  guns  simultaneously  to  our  shoulders,  and  fired. 
Although  we  evidently  gave  the  creature  their  full  con- 
tents, yet  it  was  without  producing  any  other  visible 
eflFect  than  causing  him  to  give  a  boisterous  snort,  and 
then  dart  away  furiously  in  the  heart  of  the  thicket. 

Becoming  at  length  somewhat  fatigued  with  our  con- 
stant use  of  the  paddles,  we  guided  our  canoe  beneath 
the  shelter  of  an  overhanging  tree,  where  we  quietly 
partook  of  our  morning  meal. 

Humble  as  this  meal  was,  those  who  have  never  been 
placed  under  similar  circumstances  can  have  no  idea 
how  much  we  enjoyed  it.  In  lieu  of  sparkling  wine, 
we  dipped  up  the  pure  water  of  the  stream  with  our 
calabashes,  and  drank  it  with  as  much  pleasure  as  if  it 
had  been  the  nectar  of  the  gods. 

"What  an  odd-looking  bird  that  is  !"  I  exclaimed,  at 
the  same  time  pointing  out  to  my  companion  a  queer 
kind  of  bird  seated  on  a  dry  branch  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream,  apparently  watching  for  fish. 

"  That,"  rephed  he,  "  is  an  '  imperial  boat-bill,'  a  rare 


158  PARA. 

and  valuable  bird.  But  let  me  slioot  bim  first,"  said 
he,  "  and  I  will  give  you  a  further  account  of  him  in  an 
ohituaryP 

Having  said  this  he  took  up  his  gun,  and  in  a 
moment  the  bird  was  floating  lifeless  down  the  stream. 
Putting  our  canoe  in  motion,  we  soon  overtook  it,  and 
picked  it  up  from  the  water.  Instantly  the  snort  of  a  dis- 
appointed alligator,  only  a  couple  of  rods  from  our  canoe, 
told  us  of  the  risk  we  had  run  of  losing  our  feathered 
prize. 

"  These  alligators,"  said  my  companion,  "  are  hungry 
fellows,  and  remarkably  sharp-sighted.  Not  many 
weeks  since,  as  I  was  taking  a  hunting  trip  one  morning 
down  the  stream  from  Cajueiro,  I  shot  a  snow-white 
egret,  which  fell  into  the  water  within  a  few  yards  of 
my  canoe.  My  dog,  who  was  in  the  boat,  plunged 
instantly  into  the  stream,  and  began  to  swim  with  great 
rapidity  towards  the  floating  bird.  I  kept  my  eyes  on 
him  with  intense  anxiety,  fearing  lest  he  might  be  seen 
by  some  one  of  the  ferocious  monsters  of  the  stream. 
My  apprehensions  were  but  too  well  founded.  No 
sooner  had  the  dog  reached  the  bird  than  the  wide  jaws 
of  an  alligator  appeared  above  the  surface,  and,  with  a 
suppressed  but  awful  howl,  the  dog  and  bird  sank  to 
rise  no  more.  For  a  moment  the  water  around  was 
crimsoned  with  blood,  but  the  rapid  current  soon  erased 
all  traces  of  the  catastrophe." 

Thus   we   proceeded  on,  without  meeting  with  any 


PARA.  159 

further  incidents  of  a  surprising  nature,  although  scenes 
of  novelty  and  beauty  were  constantly  presenting  them- 
selves to  our  delighted  eyes.  At  last  we  perceived  the 
thatched  cottages  of  Cajueiro  through  the  openings  of 
the  trees  on  our  right. 

Arriving  at  the  wharf,  we  were  met  by  several  of  the 
kind-hearted  natives,  who  gave  us  a  cordial  welcome, 
and  escorted  us  to  the  dwelling  which  was  set  apart  for 
our  occupation. 

Having  swung  our  hammocks  and  lighted  our  pipes, 
we  sought  relief  from  the  fatigues  of  our  journey, 
under  the  soothing  influence  of  a  noonday  siesta. 


160  PARA. 


CHAPTER    XV  . 

Location  of  Cajueiro. — The  Scenery.— Our  Habitation.— In- 
fested by  Bats. — Conversation  concerning  these  animals.— 
Injustice  done  them. — Adventure  with  a  Bittern. — "  Salted 
Ducks." 

The  dwellings  at  Cajueiro  were  located  on  a  sandy  knoll, 
commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  country  in  every  direction. 
Away  off  to  the  right  and  in  front,  the  grass-tufted 
table-land  or  prairie  extended,  undulating  in  the  soft 
breeze  like  an  ocean  of  verdure.  Here  and  there  were 
groups  of  wild  cattle  grazing  at  a  distance,  and  numbers 
of  untamed  horses  prancing  buoyantly  over  the  vast 
meadow,  their  dark  manes  flowing  like  pirate  banners, 
and  their  long  tails  streaming  gracefully  in  the  wind. 
Opposite  the  stream  on  our  left  was  a  beautiful  grove 
situated  on  a  mound,  somewhat  higher  than  that  which 
the  cottages  occupied.  At  a  distance  from  th^s  stood  a 
solitary  group  of  half  a  dozen  palms,  garnishing  the 
margin  of  the  stream,  and  waving  their  delicate 
branches  to  and  fro,  when  not  a  breath  seemed  to 
agitate   the    air. 

Our  habitation  was  but  a  mere  hut,  and  looked  as 


ICl 


much  like  a  common  haystack  as  anything  else.  It  had 
two  apartments,  or  more  properly  cells,  one  of  wliich 
was  appropriated  by  my  English  companion,  the  other 
by  myself. 

We  were  comparatively  little  annoyed  by  insects  at  this 
place.  Bats,  however,  were  exceedingly  numerous,  and 
for  a  time  were  regular  disturbers  of  my  repose.  Some- 
times a  dozen  or  more  would  amuse  themselves  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  night  in  flying  round  my  "  chamber," 
chattering  and  squeaking  in  a  peculiar  manner,  some- 
thing like  a  bevy  of  cat-startled  mice.  "  Were  you  ever 
bitten  by  these  creatures  ?"  I  anxiously  inquired  of  my 
companion,  on  a  certain  occasion  when  a  large  party  of 
them  were  having  a  "  noctes  "  in  my  apartment. 

"No,"  said  he,  "I  have  never  been  bitten  myself,  but 
the  natives  here  are  often  phlebotomized  by  them.  The 
cattle  too  are  frequently  attacked,  and  I  have  sometimes 
seen  them  with  their  sides  striped  with  blood,  from  the 
wounds  inflicted  by  these  merciless  Sangrados." 

"  Strange  stories  abound  in  the  journals  of  travellers 
concerning  the  blood-sucking  propensity  of  these  animals. 
Pray,  did  you  ever  hear  a  well  authenticated  case  of  a 
person's  having  been  bled  to  death  by  them  ?" 

"  No,"  said  he  ;  "  most  of  these  accounts  of  the  depre- 
dations of  bats  are  not  only  exaggerated,  but  are  in  many 
cases  entirely  without  foundation.  As  far  as  my  own 
experience  is  worth  anything,  I  never  saw  a  person  in  all 
my  wanderings   who   had  sustained   any  serious  injury 


162  PARA. 

from  their  bites.  I  have  no  fear  of  them  whatever,  but 
on  the  contrary,  louk  upon  them  generally  as  harmless 
animals." 

"  The  ancients,  you  are  aware,  regarded  the  bats 
almost  in  the  light  of  winged  demons ;  they  believed 
their  bite  to  be  fatal,  and  had  many  superstitious  notions 
respecting  their  diabolical  powers.  The  poets,  also,  from 
the  time  of  Homer,  have  made  use  of  them  in  heighten- 
ing the  effect  of  their  supernatural  relations,  making  them 
figure  conspicuously  with  ghosts  and  evil  spirits,  in  all 
their  imaginary  descriptions  of  the  infernal  regions." 

"  All  you  have  said  is  very  true,"  responded  my  fellow 
housekeeper ;  "  and  it  is  the  association  with  such 
fabulous  tales  of  the  ancient  poets,  which  has  given  to 
the  modern  bats  more  than  half  their  horrors  ;  poor 
creatures  ! — they  never  have  had  justice  done  them. 
Indeed,  I  do  not  think  they  are  as  much  to  be  dreaded 
as  the  mosquitoes,  notwithstanding  that  fearful,  but 
absurd  trope,  of  their  inflicting  a  venomous  bite,  and 
then  fanning  the  flesh  of  their  unconscious  victim  with 
their  wings,  in  order  to  lull  him  into  a  more  profound 
repose  while  they  are  drawing  from  him  his  life's  blood." 

"  This  is  a  richly  poetical  figure,"  I  exclaimed,  "  and  I 
have  no  doubt  has  contributed  not  a  little  towards  keep- 
ing alive  the  ill-founded  prejudice  which  exists  against 
these  unfortunate  animals,  I  perceive  that  they  have 
been  hugely  misrepresented.  Henceforth  I  volunteer 
myself  as  their  champion,  and  am  ready  to  espouse  their 


PARA.  103 

cause.  Knight  of  the  Bats  !  a  goodly  sounding  title  for 
the  jousts,  methinks." 

"  A  capital  idea,"  responded  my  companion  with  a 
laugh ;  "  the  bats  will  always  look  upon  you  as  their 
benefactor.  Champion  of  the  Bats ! — Ha  !  ha  !  ha  ! 
But,  to  speak  seriously,  it  is  not  so  very  singular,  after  all, 
that  the  bats  should  have  been  made  the  victims  of 
superstition.  Their  appearance  certainly  is  decidedly 
against  them.  Nothing  could  be  more  demoniacal  than 
their  ugly  countenances !  Then  what  enormous  ears 
they  have, — what  capacious  mouths,  and  needle-pointed 
teeth.  Besides  their  horrid  aspect,  their  habits  tend  also 
to  influence  the  superstition  of  the  ignorant.  They  are 
never  seen  flying  about  in  the  broad  daylight,  but  only 
in  the  gloaming,  or  when  stars  illumine  the  darkness  of 
night.  They  dwell  too  in  old  ruins,  or  in  the  hollow  of 
decayed  trees  ;  in  fact,  everything  connected  with  them 
is  of  a  character  both  to  excite  one's  imagination  and  to 
increase  his  credulity." 

On  the  following  day  I  made  a  short  trip  down  the 
streamlet.  The  sun  shone  brightly,  and  thousands  of 
gay-colored  birds  were  chattering  loudly  among  the 
trees,  as  my  light  canoe  moved  swan-like  down  the  rapid 
current.  The  width  of  the  stream  was  here  from  six  to 
twelve  feet,  and  for  more  than  a  mile  it  was  embowered 
like  an  extended  arbor. 

Having  sailed  for  about  a  mile  down  the  stream,  I  came 
to  a  low  section  of  land,  which  was  completely  overflowed 


164  PARA. 

by  water.  On  one  side  was  a  noble  grove,  growing  as  it 
were  in  a  lake,  and  entirely  free  from  underbrush  and 
creeping  vines.  On  the  other,  the  table  land,  with  a  few 
trees  grouped  along  the  margin  of  the  stream,  was  all 
that  was  visible. 

Casting  ray  eyes  in  all  directions,  I  perceived  a 
singular-looking  object,  apparently  drawn  into  as  small 
a  compass  as  possible,  perched  upon  a  huge  log  which 
was  lying  motionless  in  the  water.  Putting  my  gun  up 
deliberately  to  my  shoulder,  the  startled  and  slumbering 
echoes  of  this  solitude  shrieked  out  the  death-knell  of  the 
bird.  I  saw  at  once  that  it  was  a  species  of  bittern,  as 
soon  as  he  fell  off  the  log  and  lay  floundering  about  in 
the  water.  But  how  to  get  at  him  was  a  question  yet  to 
be  decided.  On  account  of  the  bushes  and  trees  which 
ran  along  the  bank  of  this  side  of  the  stream,  it  was 
evident  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  me  to  force  the 
canoe  to  the  spot  where  the  bird  then  lay.  For  a 
moment  I  was  uncertain  what  course  to  pursue,  but  stood 
still,  ruminating  upon  the  possibility  of  being  eaten  by 
alligators,  or  struck  senseless  by  electrical  eels.  At  last 
my  resolution  was  made,  and  I  jumped  into  the  water 
making  a  heavy  splashing  with  my  hands,  in  order  to 
intimidate  any  caymans  who  might  be  prowling  near. 
Seizing  the  bird,  I  made  my  way  back  to  the  boat  with 
astonishing  dispatch.  Not  five  minutes  had  elapsed,  be- 
fore my  eye  fell  upon  a  large  alligator,  swimming  about 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  fallen  tree.     I  fired  both  barrels  of 


165 


my  gun  at  him,  almost  simultaneously,  and  with  a  ter- 
rific snort  he  vanished  beneath  the  surface. 

Returning  to  Cajueiro,  I  was  met  at  the  wharf  by  the 
Englishman,  who  had  been  delaying  dinner  nearly  an 
hour  in  expectation  of  ray  return. 

"  I  hope,"  said  he,  "  you  have  a  good  appetite,  for  I 
intend  to  give  you  a  feast  of  salted  ducks  for  your 
repast." 

"  Salted  ducks !"  said  I,  in  amazement ;  "  really  I  was 
not  aware  that  birds  were  ever  salted.  However,  I  have 
no  doubt  but  I  shall  like  them,  indeed  anything  would 
be  agreeable  to  my  palate  just  now,  for  I'm  as  '  sharp 
set '  as  a  cannibal." 

So  saying,  we  walked  up  to  the  house.  A  nice  little 
table  was  set  out  under  the  veranda,  teeming  with  a 
sumptuous  variety  of  edibles,  among  which  my  eyes  fell 
directly  upon  the  platter  of  salted  ducks,  which  was  ex- 
haling a  cloud  of  savory  smoke  from  the  centre  of  the 
table.  My  first  taste  was  sufficient  to  convince  me  that 
it  was  delicious,  and  eminently  superior  in  flavor  to  any- 
thing I  had  hitherto  eaten  on  the  island. 

"  What  put  it  in  your  head  to  salt  these  ducks  ?"  I 
inquired  of  my  companion  ;  "  without  exaggeration  they 
are  the  nicest  things  I  have  eaten  in  Brazil." 

"  Economy,"  said  he,  "  gave  me  the  first  suggestion. 
During  the  prevalence  of  the  dry  season,  the  cainpos 
become  dry  and  parched  for  want  of  rain,  and  the  ducks 
are  obliged  to  resort  to  the  streams  for  food.     So  ex- 


166  PARA. 

tremely  warm  is  the  water  at  this  time,  that  it  loosens 
the  wing-feathers  of  the  ducks  and  causes  them  to  fall 
out.  They  are  thus  incapacitated  for  flight,  and  for 
weeks  are  necessitated  to  Uve  entirely  upon  the  land. 
The  natives  then  hunt  them  with  dogs,  and  sometimes 
capture  several  hundreds  in  the  course  of  a  day.  Not 
being  able  to  make  use  of  one  tenth  part  of  the  number 
brought  in,  we  salt  them  down  for  the  rainy  season,  when 
food  is  comparatively  diflScult  to  be  procured.  As  beef 
is  the  only  solid  meat  we  have,  these  we  find  very  nice 
as  a  change." 

In  addition  to  excellent  beef  and  abundance  of  "  salted 
ducks,"  we  had  plenty  of  fresh  milk  at  Cajueiro,  which  is 
the  more  worthy  of  mention,  from  the  fact  that  we  had 
hardly  seen  it  elsewhere.  In  the  city,  no  one  ever  mixes 
milk  with  their  coffee,  and  the  little  which  is  used  for 
other  purposes  is  derived  mainly  from  goats.  The  man- 
ner in  which  it  is  procured  deserves  perhaps  a  moment's 
notice.  The  natives  having  driven  a  herd  of  wild  cattle 
into  one  of  the  pens,  a  number  of  the  calves  are  caught 
and  firmly  secured  by  ropes.  The  cattle  are  then  per- 
mitted to  leave  the  pen,  but  the  mothers  of  the  captives 
always  remain  behind,  only  leaving  them  to  graze  on 
the  nearest  grass.  Returning  with  their  pouches  well 
filled  with  milk  to  feed  their  offspring,  the  natives  take 
from  them  a  portion  of  the  snow-white  fluid,  leaving 
suflBcient,  however,  for  the  maintenance  of  the  calves. 


PARA.  167 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Wild  Horses. — Manner  of  breaking  them. — Slaughter  of  a  fero- 
cious Bull. — Turkey  Buzzards. — Death  and  Burial. — Funerals 
in  the  City. — An  Evening  Conversation. — Importance  of  study- 
ing Nature. 

Many  wild  horses  are  still  caught  at  Cajueiro.  One  day 
a  party  of  eight  or  ten  of  the  natives,  mounted  on  well 
disciplined  steeds,  and  headed  by  the  Englishman,  went 
out  on  the  carapos  for  this  purpose.  Perched  amid  the 
branches  of  a  tall  tree,  I  had  an  extensive  view  of  the 
grassy  plain,  and  was  able  distinctly  to  observe  all  the 
movements  of  the  equestrians. 

The  horsemen  were  riding  rapidly  in  the  direction  of 
a  small  grove,  when  suddenly  a  troop  of  forty  or  fifty  of 
the  wild  creatures  emerged  from  behind  it,  and  bounded 
away  with  astonishing  velocity  over  the  meadow.  A 
spirited  chase  was  now  commenced  by  the  mounted 
natives,  who  strained  their  swift  animals  to  their  greatest 
capacity  ;  never  did  I  witness  a  more  intensely  exciting 
spectacle  than  the  one  which  was  now  before  me.  The 
manes  and  tails  of  the  horses  were  flying  wildly  in  the 
air,  while  a  mass  of  hoofs  were  rising  and  falling  with 


168  PARA. 

a  rapidity  which  showed  how  tightly  strung  were  the 
muscles  of  the  animals. 

To  my  surprise  the  Englishman  kept  the  lead,  and 
was  obviously  gaining  upon  the  quick-footed  fugitives. 
Coming  up  with  them,  he  seized  his  lasso,  and  began  to 
swing  it  around  his  head,  gradually  enlarging  the  circles 
by  permitting  the  smooth  rope  to  slip  gently  through 
his  fingers. 

By  a  sudden  motion,  at  the  same  instant  plunging  the 
spurs  into  his  charger,  in  order  to  increase  his  speed  if 
possible,  he  dashed  quickly  forward,  and  hurled  his  lasso 
with  unerring  skill  around  the  neck  of  the  foremost  horse. 
The  herd  were  now  thrown  into  a  panic,  and  wheeling 
around  in  their  course,  they  were  completely  surrounded 
by  their  pursuers.  Several  were  lassoed  by  the  natives, 
and  the  remainder  kept  together  by  two  or  three  of  the 
horsemen,  who  were  continually  circling  around  them  ; 
not  one  escaped,  and  ere  an  hour  had  elapsed,  they  were 
driven  safely  into  one  of  the  pens  at  Cajueiro,  neighing 
loudly,  and  their  mouths  covered  with  creamy  foam. 
The  best  horses  being  selected  from  the  herd,  and  pro- 
perly secured,  the  others  were  again  turned  at  large. 

The  mode  adopted  by  the  natives  of  breaking  them, 
cannot  be  styled  by  any  other  term  than  that  of  barba- 
rous ;  yet  it  is  so  efficacious  that  the  poor  animals  are 
rendered  perfectly  docile  and  manageable  in  the  course 
of  two  or  three  days. 

One  afternoon  an  opportunity  was  afforded  me  of  wit- 


109 


nessing  the  operation.  In  the  largest  inclosure  proudly- 
stood  one  of  the  majestic  animals,  kicking  up  the  earth 
with  his  hoofs,  and  shaking  the  heavy  mane  on  his  finely 
curved  neck,  while  his  bright  eyes  glanced  fearfully 
around  him,  and  his  loud  laughing  voice  ringing  wildly 
in  the  quiet  air,  seemed  to  be  calling  on  his  far-off  com- 
panions for  relief. 

The  fiery  creature  was  held  by  a  strong  halter  of 
at  least  fifteen  feet  in  length,  manned  by  three  of  the 
muscular  and  bare-chested  natives.  Soon  a  noose  was 
thrown  around  his  neck  by  a  couple  of  powerful  blacks 
stationed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  inclosure.  They 
then  pulled  with  all  their  strength  one  way,  while  those 
who  had  hold  of  the  halter  exerted  themselves  vehe- 
mently in  the  contrary  direction.  The  object  evidently 
was  to  effect  partial  strangulation,  in  order  that  they 
might  weaken  and  temporarily  overcome  the  wonderful 
power  of  the  spirited  creature. 

Violent  were  the  plunges  of  the  captive  steed  as  he 
sought  in  vain,  by  superhuman  exertions,  to  free  himself 
from  the  grasp  of  his  cruel  tormentors,  who  stood  like 
heartless  demons  around  him.  His  terrific  leaps  only 
served  to  draw  the  cord  tighter  and  tighter  about  his 
neck  ;  his  breathing  became  more  and  more  difficult,  and 
might  have  been  heard  audibly  at  the  distance  of  a  fur- 
long. His  heart  beat  as  if  it  would  burst  from  his  heav- 
ing bosom,  and  his  veins  stood  out  in  ridges  along  his 
quivering  flesh.  At  last,  overwhelmed  with  the  intensity 
8 


170  PARA. 

of  bis  agony,  and  poweiless  from  suflfocation,  he  fell,  and 
for  an  instant  lay  without  sense  or  motion  upon  the 
ground.  The  noose  was  immediately  loosed  about  his 
neck,  and  shortly  returning  consciousness  began  to  light 
his  glazed  eyes — the  fre&h  air  swelled  his  nostrils,  and  his 
tremendous  chest  rose  and  fell  like  the  billows  of  the 
sea.  At  the  expiration  of  fifteen  minutes  he  was  once 
more  on  his  feet,  but  how  different  from  the  magnificent 
animal  who  had  stood,  in  his  native  pride  and  dignity, 
pawing  that  sandy  soil  an  hour  before  !  Weak — hardly 
able  to  stand — his  head  drooping,  and  his  eyes  without 
a  ray,  he  looked  like  a  miserable  spectre  of  his  former 
self — like  a  monarch  dragged  from  his  throne,  who  has 
been  scoffed  at  by  those  whom  he  had  before  despised, 
and  forced  to  be  a  wretched  and  miserable  slave  ! 

The  persecution  of  the  horse  was  now  by  no  means 
concluded.  As  soon  as  he  had  recovered  somewhat 
from  his  exhaustion,  he  was  mounted  by  a  naked 
Indian,  who  was  rewarded  for  his  temerity  by  being 
thrown  to  a  considerable  distance  over  the  head  of  the 
animal.  The  native,  however,  was  but  little  hurt,  and 
in  a  few  moments  again  resumed  his  dangerous  seat. 
This  time  he  kept  his  place,  notwithstanding  the  vast 
eflforts  of  the  animal  to  shake  him  off;  in  fact,  the  horse 
and  his  rider,  being  of  nearly  the  same  color,  brought 
vividly  to  my  mind  the  remembrance  of  an  ancient 
Centaur. 

The  animal  was  now  held  tightly  by  a  long  rope,  and 


PARA.  171 

forced  to  run  round  and  round  in  a  circle.  Whenever 
he  flagged,  or  manifested  the  slightest  obstinacy,  a 
native,  with  a  heavily  knotted  cord  swinging  around  his 
head,  would  give  him  a  terrible  blow  on  his  flanks,  the 
pain  of  which  was  almost  sufficient  to  drive  him  to 
madness.  Gradually  he  became  more  and  more  pas- 
sive, and  at  the  end  of  another  hour  was  quite  tractable. 
I  then  left  the  spot,  and  returned  to  the  cottage,  feeling 
nearly  as  sad  in  spirit  as  if  I  had  been  witnessing  the 
racking  of  a  human  victim  in  one  of  the  gloomy  dun- 
geons of  the  Inquisition. 

Thus  much  for  the  horse,  who,  whether  seen  sharing 
the  humble  tent  of  the  Arab,  or  toiling  laboriously  amid 
the  noise  and  bustle  of  crowded  cities,  or  gliding  fear- 
lessly over  his  native  plains  in  all  the  nobility  of  free- 
dom, is  truly  a  splendid  as  well  as  useful  animal, 
well  deserving  the  goodwill  and  admiration  of  man- 
kind. 

The  cattle  belonging  to  the  diSerent  estates  on 
Marajo  are  distinguished  by  particular  marks,  which  are 
branded  on  their  sides  with  red-hot  irons.  Their  ears 
are,  besides,  cut  in  a  peculiar  manner.  Unmarked  cattle 
are  the  lawful  property  of  the  first  one  who  catches 
them,  and  are  branded  accordingly  with  the  recognised 
stamp  of  the  captor. 

Scarcely  a  week  passed  by  at  Cajueiro  without  the 
slaughter  of  one  or  more  oxen,  as  food  for  the  natives. 
On  a  certain  day,  an  Indian  horseman  rode  in  from  the 


172  P  A  U  A  . 

campo,  leading  by  the  horns  a  ferocious  bull  which  he 
had  recently  captured.  The  formidable  animal,  with  his 
head  bent  down,  pulled  tightly  on  the  lasso,  apparently 
aware  of  the  bloody  doom  which  awaited  him.  En- 
raged beyond  measure,  he  stood  gazing  at  his  antago- 
nist, kicking  up  the  sand  with  his  feet,  and  at  the  same 
time  roaring  and  bellowing  in  a  manner  indescribably- 
awful  and  grand ! 

The  bold  horseman,  not  at  all  disturbed  by  the  wild 
fury  and  menacing  attitude  of  the  bull,  and  perceiving 
that  it  would  be  some  time  before  he  would  be  able  to 
brino-  the  savage  creature  on  his  haunches,  determined 
to  make  an  end  of  him  by  a  skilful  coup  de  main.  For 
this  purpose  he  sprang  suddenly  from  his  horse  and  put 
his  small  red  cap  upon  his  head.  No  sooner  was  this 
seen  by  the  maddened  animal,  than  he  rushed  franti- 
cally towards  his  dauntless  adversary,  lowering  his  horns 
in  order  to  gore  him  to  death.  On,  on  he  came  with 
awful  vehemence,  and  I  could  not  avoid  putting  my 
hand  up  unconsciously  before  my  eyes,  so  intensely  hor- 
rifying was  the  spectacle.  When  the  beast  was  within 
a  few  feet  of  him,  Pedro  jumped  a  Uttle  on  one  side, 
and  with  a  quick  blow  of  his  long  knife,  he  nearly 
severed  the  fore  legs  of  the  bull,  whose  own  dreadful 
impetus  threw  him  headlong  upon  the  ground.  The 
cold  steel  of  Pedro  glittered  once  more  in  the  air,  and 
was  then  plunged  with  a  strong  arm  into  the  capacious 
breast  of  the  prostrate  animal.     In  a  moment  after,  it 


PAHA.  113 

flashed  again  in  the  sunhght,  followed  by  a  jet  of  crim- 
son blood,  which  spouted  out  indignantly  from  the 
wound. 

A  dramatic  scene  now  ensued.  Two  of  the  natives, 
acting  in  the  capacity  of  butchers,  almost  immediately 
commenced  skinning  and  quartering  the  enormous  crea- 
ture, before  life  itself  was  hardly  extinct.  A  group, 
composed  of  all  the  Indians  and  blacks  of  the  place, 
stood  around,  each  one  waiting  anxiously  to  be  served 
with  his  portion.  In  an  incredibly  short  time,  the  flesh 
was  entirely  cut  up  and  distributed  among  the  islanders, 
and  nothing  was  left  of  the  fierce  animal  who  had 
raved  and  roared  and  manifested  such  prodigious 
strength  but  a  few  moments  previous,  save  a  gory 
and  grizzly  carcase,  smoking  in  the  warm  sunshine, 
and  literally  covered  with  a  host  of  ravenous  buzzards, 
who  were  busily  picking  ofi"  the  small  particles  of  meat 
which  still  adhered  to  the  bones.  These  birds  are 
remarkably  numerous  in  Brazil,  and  are  of  great  utility 
in  devouring  carrion  of  all  kinds,  thus  preventing  disease 
by  preserving  the  purity  of  the  atmosphere.  They  are 
seldom  molested  by  the  natives,  and  in  the  city  it  would 
be  considered  almost  a  crime  to  kill  one.  Thus  we  see 
the  infinite  wisdom  of  nature  displayed  in  all  her 
admirable  creations,  and  percoive  that  no  object  is  so 
odious  but  will  become  both  pleasing  and  interesting,  if 
we  will  but  give  it  our  study  and  attention. 

The  death  of  an  old  female  slave  occurred  while  the 


174  PARA. 

writer  was  at  Cajueiro,  but  this  was  an  event  which  did 
not  in  the  shghtest  degree  impair  the  universal  hilarity 
of  the  natives.  The  body  was  simply  sewed  up  in  a 
coarse  cotton  sheet,  and  then  deposited  in  the  ground 
with  as  little  ceremony  as  if  it  was  a  case  of  planting 
instead  of  burial  of  the  dead.  No  one  exhibited  any 
feeling  on  the  occasion,  although  the  deceased  had 
been  much  esteemed  during  her  lifetime.  Even  while 
filling  up  the  grave,  the  natives  indulged  freely  in  bois- 
terous conversation  and  jocund  laughter. 

The  spot  where  the  deceased  was  buried  was  one  of 
incomparable  beauty.  Two  or  three  palms  stood  near, 
drooping  their  branches  low,  as  if  in  sadness.  The 
brook  stole  almost  imperceptibly  through  the  thick 
shrubbery,  with  a  low  and  mellow  sound.  The  birds 
chirped  cheerily  in  the  adjacent  grove — and  insects  flut- 
tered in  the  air — but,  alas !  there  was  not  a  sigh  to  be 
heard,  telling  that  the  hand  of  death  had  invaded  this 
terrestrial  paradise,  and  that  an  immortal  soul  had  gone 
away  from  its  beautiful  shades  for  ever — had  taken  its 
eternal  flight  to  the  unknown  "  spirit  land." 

The  public  funerals  in  the  cities  contrast  strangely 
with  the  humble  burial  scene  just  described.  On  these 
occasions,  a  splendid  coffin,  containing  the  body  of  the 
deceased,  is  supported  on  the  shoulders  of  six  or  eight 
men,  and  in  this  manner  carried  to  the  church,  followed 
by  an  extensive  and  brilliant  procession  of  hypocritical 
mourners.     The  men  are  generally  dressed  in  deep  black, 


\1i 


and  some  of  tliem  carry  blazing  torches  in  their  hands. 
On  arriving  at  the  church,  the  coffin  is  placed  upun  a 
pedestal  profusely  hung  with  a  costly  drapery  of  silk 
and  crape.  The  dead  body  is  then  removed  from  the 
coffin,  and  buried  beneath  one  of  the  large  marble  slabs 
of  the  floor,  or  placed  in  a  catacomb,  made  in  the  massive 
walls  of  the  edifice. 

Mr.  Kidder  thus  remarks : — "  The  coffin  used  in  the 
ceremony  is  not  interred  with  the  corpse,  being  kept  by 
the  church  or  brotherhood  for  the  purpose  of  renting 
on  such  occasions.  When  the  bodies  are  placed  in  the 
catacombs,  quick-lime  is  thrown  upon  them  to  hiistea 
the  process  of  decay ;  and  after  the  lapse  of  about  twelve 
months,  the  cavity  is  opened,  and  the  bones  of  the  dead 
are  taken  out  and  cleaned.  The  friends  of  the  deceased 
then  cause  the  remains  to  be  inclosed  in  a  box,  to  remain 
at  the  church,  or  to  be  taken  home  at  pleasure.  These 
boxes  are  generally  left  in  the  church,  the  families 
preserving  the  key ;  but  an  instance  was  mentioned  to 
me,  of  a  gentleman  who  kept  the  bones  of  his  deceased 
wife  in  his  own  sleeping  room.  The  cases  and  boxes  are 
of  ditferent  sizes  and  shaj^cs,  but  seldom  liave  any  resem- 
blance to  coffins.  Some  are  large,  like  mausoleums; 
others,  with  their  ornamental  exterior,  resemble  large 
dressing-cases.  It  is  highly  incongruous  to  witness,  in 
such  a  place,  the  display  of  ornament ;  and  yet  some  of 
these  mortuary  boxes  are  adorned  with  drapery  of  gold 
and  silver  tissue,  wrought  upon  satin  and  velvet,  to  please 


176  PARA. 

the  eye,  and  call  forth  the  admiration  of  those  who  may 
visit  the  cloister." 

The  evening  was  clear  and  serene,  and  tlie  stars 
glittered  as  brightly  as  if  seen  through  a  telescope.  We 
were  seated  alone  under  the  rude  porch  of  our  little 
cottage  at  Cajueiro,  inhaling  the  soothing  fumes  of  our 
well-filled  "cachimbos,"  and  gazing  with  admiration 
alternately  at  the  world-studded  infinity  above,  and  the 
wild  magnificence  of  luxuriant  and  varied  scenery  which 
surrounded  us ! 

"  How  sublime  is  an  evening  in  the  tropics !"  exclaimed 
my  enthusiastic  companion,  "and  how  well  calculated 
to  refine  the  mind,  and  fill  it  with  noble  aspirations  and 
sentiments !  methinks  the  most  corrupted  mind  on 
earth  could  not  but  be  benefited  by  visiting  so  lovely  a 
spot  as  this !" 

"  There  is  no  denying,"  I  replied,  "  the  sovereign  power 
which  the  consciousness  of  beauty  exerts  upon  the  mind. 
The  appreciation  of  it  seems  to  be  the  great  prerogative 
which  mind  has  over  instinct ;  the  brute  is  insensible  to 
its  divine  influence,  and  can  gaze  upon  the  most  exquisite 
objects,  the  most  enchanting  scenery,  without  a  shadow 
of  emotion.  Do  you  not  think  that  there  are  some  men 
with  but  little  more  perception  ?" 

"  I  know  that  there  are  many,"  he  replied,  "  who 
manifest  scarcely  any  sympathy  with  the  beautiful 
works  of  nature ;  but  it  is  because  the  faculty  has  been 
stifled  by  the  pleasures  of  sense  ;  it  exists  in  every  man, 


177 


and,  like  all  mental  perceptions,  may  be  developed  by 
proper  culture  !" 

"  Do  you  not  think  it  would  be  better  if  more  atten- 
tion was  paid  at  our  schools  and  academies  in  instruct- 
ing young  men  in  the  natural  sciences,  and  thus  direct- 
ing their  minds  to  the  contemplation  of  nature's 
wonders  ?" 

"  I  certainly  do,"  said  he,  "  and  the  sooner  such  studies 
are  commenced,  the  more  powerful  and  beneficial  will  be 
the  impression  which  they  will  make  upon  the  mind  and 
character  of  the  child.     Character  I  say — for  who  ever 
saw  a  lover  of  nature  who  was  a  villain  ?  who  ever  heard 
of  a  naturalist  who  was  not  moreover  a  moral  and  good 
man.     If  Heaven  ever  blesses  me  with  children,  I  shall 
commence  early  to  point  out  to  them,  and  to  explain,  as 
far  as  I  am  able,  the  manifold  wonders  and  beauties  which 
surround  thera.     I  would  strive  diligently  to  impress 
upon  their  growing  minds  the    univei-sal   beauty    and 
utility  of  all  the  works  of  nature,  however  useless  and 
ordinary  some  of  them  may  appear  to  their  imperfect 
comprehensions.      A   man   may  not   be  able   to  read 
the  Hebrew  language,  and  therefore  say  in  his  igno- 
rance, that  because  the  written  signs  convey  no  mean- 
ing  to   him,  tlioy  are  of  no  particular  value ;    while 
another  person  may  perceive  in  those  unmeaning  signs 
the  world-moving  thoughts  of  the  inspired  penmen. 

"  If,  then,  it  is  of  essential  importance  that  we  should 
be  made  acquainted  with  those  signs  by  which  we  can 


178  PARA. 

fathom  the  thoughts  of  the  wisest  of  mankind,  of  how 
much  greater  importance  is  it  that  we  should  learn  those 
marvellous  signs  which  constitute  the  language  of  Nature, 
a  language  by  which  we  can  read  the  very  thoughts  of 
God !" 


PARA 


179 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Hunting  Excursion. — Adventure  with  an  Alligator. — Beautiful 
Grove. — Rookery  of  the  Scarlet  Ibises. — Departure  from 
Cajueiro. 

In  the  morning  we  left  our  palmetto  cottage,  at  least  an 
hour  before  dawn,  and  embarked  in  a  small  canoe  on  a 
hunting  excursion  up  the  streamlet.  By  sunrise  we  were 
already  several  miles  from  the  hamlet,  and  as  far  as  our 
eyes  could  reach  in  every  direction,  the  tufted  prairie  land 
extended,  its  monotony  being  only  interrupted  by  occa- 
sional patches  of  palm  trees,  and  the  dense  shrubbery 
and  thickets  which  in  some  places  shaded  the  banks  of 
the  stream.  As  we  were  proceeding  cautiously  along, 
and  anxiously  awaiting  an  opportunity  to  disturb  the 
profound  silence  which  reigned,  our  attention  was  sud- 
denly directed  to  a  number  of  Marreca  ducks,  whom  we 
saw  flving  up  and  down  within  a  few  rods  in  advance  of 
us.  From  our  own  experience,  and  the  supposition  of 
our  Indian  companions,  we  rightly  conjectured  that  an 
immense  flock  of  these  birds  were  lying  in  ambush  in 
the  grass.  Having  arrived  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  spot  where  they  were  assembled,  they  took  alarm, 
and  rising  from  both  sides  of  the  stream  like  a  cloud, 


ISO 


they  almost  obscured  the  light  of  the  sun.  We  fired 
our  pieces  simultaneously  at  them,  and  after  the  smoke 
had  cleared  away,  we  picked  up  about  thirty  of  the 
ducks  Avhich  had  fallen  dead  into  the  water,  and  among 
the  rushes  along  the  bank. 

As  we  were  passing  through  a  widened  part  of  the 
stream,    we    observed    a    prodigious    alligator,    nearly 
twenty  feet  in  length,  with  his  enormous  gorgon-like 
head   entirely  out  of  the  water.     As   we   were    fortu- 
nately provided  with  a  rude  harpoon,  our  Indian  com- 
panions said  that  with  our  permission  they  would  endea- 
vor to  capture  and  destroy  this  hideous  monster.     As 
•we  oifered  no  objection,  they  immediately  prepared  to 
carry  their  bloody  project  into  execution.     One  of  the 
natives  seized  the  harpoon  with  both  his  hands,  and  taking 
dehberate  aim,  he  hurled   the  instrument  with   all  his 
power   into  an  uncovered  part  of  the  animal's  neck  or 
breast.     The  ferocious  monster,  smarting  with  the  pain, 
dashed  beneath  the  surface,  and  swimming  off,  dragged 
our  little  canoe   after   him   with    fearful   rapidity.      It 
was,  indeed,  an  exciting  moment ;  but  our  courageous 
companions,   however,  were  by  no  means  intimidated 
at  the  fury  of  the  animal,  assuring  us  that  he  would 
soon   become  exhausted  through  loss  of  blood.     Hav- 
ing waited  for   full   half  an   hour   in    the   canoe,  and 
becoming  somewhat   impatient,  one   of  our   men   dis- 
patched the  dying  alligator  with  an  axe.     Cutting  off 
his  head    in    the   style    of  the   illustrious   "Jack    the 


181 


Giant    Killer,"    we   secured    it   :is    a   trophy    and    pro- 
ceeded on  our  way. 

The  streamlet  in  its  course  intersected  a  hand- 
some grove  of  shady  palms,  whose  branches  formed 
an  umbrageous  canopy  above  us.  As  there  was  no 
underbrush,  we  could  not  resist  the  temptation  to  go 
on  shore,  and  take  a  short  ramble  among  the  trees ; 
we  did  so,  and  found  the  grove  well  supplied  with 
various  kinds  of  fruits,  principally  oranges,  bananas,  and 
guavas !  We  observed  several  curious  birds'  nests 
suspended  from  the  branches  of  the  trees.  These  nests 
were  some  of  them  upwards  of  three  feet  in  length, 
and  were  ingeniously  constructed  of  twigs  and  vines 
interwoven  together. 

Wandering   for  a   short   distance   beyond   the   pre- 
cincts  of  the  grove,  I   perceived    a   small  bird  with  a 
bright  crimson  breast,  sitting    amid   the   branches  of  a 
flowering  bush,     I  instantly  raised  my  gun  and  fired, 
but    alas    for   me,    about    one    half    of    my    charge 
passed   into   a   large   hornets'    nest,    which    was   con- 
cealed from  view  by  the  thickness  of  the  leaves !   For 
a    moment    I   was   vigorously    beset   by   hundreds   of 
the  insects  that  I  had  so  innocently  and   involuntarily 
disturbed !     Believing  that  in  this  case  "  discretion  was 
the   better  part  of  valor,"  I  instantly  took   refuge  in 
flio-ht.      The    speed   with   which    I   diished    over  the 
meadow  was   really    a   source    of  wonder   to    myself, 
and  to  my  great  satisfaction  and    delight,  I  soon    left 


182  PARA, 

my  infuriated  pursuers  far  behind  me  !  Having 
regained  my  companions,  I  told  them  of  my  adven- 
ture, -who,  however,  instead  of  pitying  my  misfortune, 
indulged  in  immoderate  laughter,  though  I  was  really 
convulsed  with  pain  ! 

Having  collected  together  a  quantity  of  the  deli- 
cious fruits  of  the  grove,  together  with  some  rare 
plants,  we  put  them  in  our  boat,  and  once  more  "  set 
sail."  The  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  was  delight- 
ful, while  a  refreshing  breeze  from  the  ocean  was  fan- 
ning the  tall  grass  of  the  campo. 

Having  proceeded  for  a  mile  further,  our  guides 
pointed  out  to  us  a  dense  thicket  on  the  right  bank, 
which  they  said  was  inhabited  by  the  scarlet  ibis. 
"VYe  shortly  arrived  at  the  desired  spot,  and  securing 
our  boat  to  a  tree,  we  equipped  ourselves  and  went 
ashore.  I  had  never  before  encountered  a  thicket 
of  so  dense  and  impassable  a  nature. 

The  birds  certainly  displayed  considerable  foresight 
in  selecting  such  a  safely  protected  spot  for  their 
habitation,  as  it  would  be  utterly  impossible  for  any 
animal  whatever  to  molest  them  in  their  well-chosen 
retreat.  Nothing  could  be  better  adapted  for  their 
security  against  the  inroads  of  their  enemies  than  this 
vegetable  fortress,  barricaded  as  it  was  by  innumera- 
ble bamboo  canes,  and  several  kinds  of  thorny 
cactus  and  Spanish  bayonets,  besides  numbers  of  tall 
mangroves    and   palmettoes,   all    so    intertwined    and 


188 


matted  together,  that  it  was  with  the  greatest  possi- 
ble difficulty  that  we  were  able  to  force  our  way 
through  it,  even  with  the  assistance  of  our  well-sharp- 
ened swords.  In  passing  along,  we  several  times 
tripped  over  tangled  vines  lying  under  our  feet,  and 
scratched  our  limbs  quite  seriously  against  the  sharp 
thorns  with  which  the  bushes  were  amply  provided ! 

In  the  interior  of  this  almost  impenetrable  thicket 
was  the  citadel  of  the  beautiful  ibis ;  and  here  every 
bush  and  tree  had  on  it  from  five  to  twenty  nests. 
These  nests  were  about  a  foot  and  a  half  in  diameter, 
and  were  perfectly  flat.  They  were  composed  of  dry 
twigs  and  fibrous  roots,  twined  together  and  covered 
with  leaves.  The  ibises,  being  disturbed  by  our 
approach,  rose  up  in  immense  numbers  around  us,  and 
filled  the  air  with  their  cries.  Although  naturally  very 
timid,  yet  they  cannot  be  forced  away  from  their 
rookery,  and  at  this  time  they  continued  flying  in  circles 
but  a  short  distance  over  our  heads.  I  have  no  doubt 
that  this  rookery  alone  included  at  least  a  thousand 
feathered  inhabitants.  The  plumage  of  the  full  grown 
ibis  is  of  the  richest  crimson,  with  the  exception  of  the 
extremities  of  the  primary  wing  feathers,  which  are 
tipped  with  bluish-black,  and  form  a  pleasing  contrast 
with  the  general  scarlet  hue  of  the  bird. 

A  more  striking  spectacle,  particularly  to  an  enthu- 
siastic naturalist,  than  a  large  flock  of  these  splendid 


184  PARA. 

birds  floating  through   the   air,   hke    a   crimson  cloud, 
cannot  possibly  be  conceived  ! 

The  rookeries  of  the  ibises  are  only  tenanted  during 
the  dry  season,  the  rainy  months  rendering  them  wholly 
un6t  for  occupation.  Throughout  this  period  the  ibises 
wander  about  in  small  parties,  resting  during  the  night 
amid  the  thick  foliage  of  the  forest.  They  may  be 
easily  domesticated  if  taken  while  young,  but  in  this  state 
they  are  quite  uninteresting  in  their  habits,  and  are  more- 
over entirely  destitute  of  the  bright  scarlet  plumage  which 
characterizes  them  in  their  wild  and  natural  condition. 

During  the  breeding  season  the  ibises  are  accustomed 
to  make  daily  visits  to  the  sea  shore,  for  the  purpose  of 
procuring  food.  In  these  excursions  they  are  governed- 
altogether  by  the  state  of  the  tide,  visiting  the  shores 
while  it  is  falling,  and  returning  again  to  their  nesting- 
places  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  flow.  They  fly  together 
in  flocks  of  several  hundreds,  and  sometimes  even  thou- 
sands, and  the  regularity  and  beauty  of  their  evolutions 
in  the  air  are  almost  sufficient  to  convince  the  spectator 
that  these  birds  must  be  subject  to  a  perfect  code  of 
military  discipline.  Indeed,  allowing  that  they  are 
prompted  thus  to  act  through  the  force  of  instinct,  does  it 
seem  any  the  less  strange  that  such  a  large  assemblage 
of  birds  should  be  prompted  to  do  exactly  the  same 
thing  at  exactly  the  same  time,  without  any  mutual  con- 
currence or  intercourse  the  one  with  the  other  ? 


P  A  K  A  .  185 

The  white  ibis  manifests  considerable  ingenuity  in  its 
capture  of  tlie  craw-fish,  one  of  its  favorite  articles  of 
food.  During  the  dry  season  this  curious  little  animal 
burrows  in  the  earth  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  feet, 
and  is,  when  thus  concealed,  quite  inaccessible  to  its 
enemies.  Now,  what  does  the  ibis  do  !  Like  a  true 
philosopher,  he  does  not  murmur  at  the  obstacles  which 
stand  in  the  way  of  his  desires',  but  cunningly  resorts  to 
an  effectual  stratagem  to  secure  his  purpose.  Walking 
up  deliberately  to  the  little  sandy  mound  which  the 
craw-fish  throws  u[)  in  digging  its  subterranean  retreat, 
it  entirely  demohshos  it,  and  causes  a  quantity  of  the 
dirt  and  sand  to  fall  into  the  open  cavity.  The  indus- 
trious little  craw-fish,  perceiving  the  ruin  that  has  been 
occasioned,  although  ignorant  of  the  cause,  immediately 
rushes  out  to  rej^air  the  injury,  but  no  sooner  does  he 
make  his  apiiearance  on  the  outside  than  he  is  seized  by 
the  wily  bird,  who  immediately  masticates  and  swallows 
him. 

Returning  to  Cajueiro,  we  shot  a  fine  specimen 
of  the  "  wood  ibis."  This  remarkable  bird  feeds  chiefly 
on  fish,  young  rails,  and  crabs,  as  well  as  small  alligators, 
snakes,  and  turtles.  Truly,  reader,  what  an  epicure 
must  the  "  wood  ibis"  be  ! 

Paddling  swiftly  on,  we  arrived  at  our  humble  cot- 
tage about  an  hour  before  sunset  Our  game  and  other 
luggage  was  speedily  conveyed  within  the  house  by  our 


186  PARA. 

companions,  who  proceeded  without  delay  to  prepare 
some  of  the  birds  for  supper.  This  meal  was  served  up 
at  seven  o'clock,  and,  together  with  good  coffee,  roast 
ducks,  and  "  mingow,"  it  was  anything  but  a  contemptible 
affair. 


187 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Departure  from  Cajueiro. — Conversation  on  Melancholy. — A 
Song. — Parrots. — Ciganaa. — The  Cyracura. — Departure  from 
Marajo  and  arrival  at  Para. 

It  was  not  many  days  after  the  hunting  excursion 
related  in  the  preceding  chapter,  that  the  writer  of 
this  humble  narrative  bade  farewell  to  Cajueiro — for 
ever. 

While  making  preparation.s  to  get  off,  several  of  the 
warm-hearted  islanders  came  down  to  the  brook  side, 
bringing  in  their  hands  presents  of  various  kinds,  with 
which  they  loaded  our  canoe. 

These  consisted  of  about  a  dozen  chickens,  a  number 
of  loquacious  parrots,  several  huge  bunches  of  bananas, 
and  a  miscellaneous  assortment  of  othor  fruit. 

All  things  being  nicely  stowed  away  in  the  montaria, 
and  my  "  adieus"  having  been  rendered  to  each  one  of 
the  natives  separately,  we  shoved  oft'  from  the  shore,  and 
were  soon  floating  rapidly  down  the  stream,  assisted  by 
both  current  and  tide. 

Casting  a  lingering  gaze  upon  the  beautiful  spot 
where  some  of  my  happiest  hours  had  flitted  so  swiftly 


188 


away,  my  siglit  rested  upon  the  cottages,  and  took  in  the 
vast  area  of  table-land,  which  stretched  out  like  a  lake 
dotted  with  islets,  to  the  very  borders  of  the  horizon ; 
my  last  glance  fell  upon  the  group  of  dusky  islanders, 
who  were  still  standing  on  the  bank  of  the  stream, 
watching  attentively  our  canoe  as  it  receded  farther  and 
farther  from  their  view;  my  eyes  closed  involuntarily, 
perhaps  to  restrain  a  brewing  storm  of  tears,  and  when 
they  were  again  re-opened,  the  glorious  scene  upon 
which  I  had  but  a  moment  before  gazed  in  all  its 
native  simplicity  and  beauty,  could  be  seen  no  more ! 
It  had  vanished,  like  the  thought  of  a  dream — never  to 
return ! 

Instead  of  the  open  landscape  I  had  just  beheld 
nothing  now  could  be  seen  but  the  canopy  of  dew-span- 
gled leaves,  which  clustered  iu  luxuriant  profusion  above 
us ;  it  seemed  as  if  we  had  suddenly  entered  a  tunnel, 
leading  to  some  enchanted  region  of  fairy-land,  so  bright 
and  beautiful  did  everything  then  appear ;  the  birds 
chattered  amid  the  shrubbery,  and  sometimes  darted 
with  meteor-like  swiftness  up  and  down  the  sylvan 
avenue  ;  insects  gleamed  in  the  flickering  rays  of  sun- 
light, which  had  struggled  through  the  crevices  of  the 
overhanging  foliage  ;  each  leaf  seemed  to  be  enriched 
with  a  hundred  shining  gems,  while  the  arbor  itself  was 
decorated  throughout  its  entire  length  with  many  thou- 
sand briUiant  flowers.  Such  a  scene  as  this  was  well 
calculated  to  refresh  my  sinking  spirits,  and  to  raise  my 


PARA.  189 

thoughts   from   the  painful  state  of  despondency   into 
which  they  had  fallen. 

"You  seem  to  be  rather  gloomy,"  said  my  compa- 
nion ;  "  you  could  not  give  more  emphatic  assurance 
that  your  visit  to  Cajueiro  has  been  a  pleasant  one.  But 
you  must  not  give  way  to  melancholy !  this  is  a  disease 
of  the  imagination  alone,  and  unless  suppressed  in  its 
early  stages,  will  occasion  a  vast  deal  of  unnecessary 
misery  through  life.  It  never  fails,  when  frequently 
indulged  in,  to  undermine  the  physical  health  of  its 
votaries,  and,  like  a  morbid  cancer,  to  gnaw  into  their 
very  souls." 

"  Your  advice  is  certainly  very  good,"  I  replied,  "  but 
do  you  think  it  would  be  possible  for  any  one  practically 
to  carry  it  out ;  I,  for  my  part,  think  not ;  we  may  in  a 
measure  restrain  a  disposition  to  melancholy,  but  there 
are  times  when  all  persons  are  more  or  less  affected  by 
it — sunshine  may  prevail  for  a  time,  but  darkness  and 
storms  will  sooner  or  later  succeed.  Sorrow  and  gloom, 
like  dismal  spectres,  will  occasionally  penetrate  all  the 
barriers  which  philosophy  may  raise,  haunting  the  hap- 
piness and  poisoning  the  peace  of  the  strongest  and  best 
reo-ulated  minds.  But,  in  a  word,  allow  me  to  inquire  if 
you  yourself  are  never  troubled  with  sadness  ?" 

"I  will  frankly  admit,"  answered  the  Englishman, 
"that  I  have  not  been  entirely  exempt  from  the  mental 
disorder  of  which  we  have  been  speaking,  but  I  thitik  1 
can  also  add,  with  equal  truth,  that  few  men  are  less 


190  PARA. 

affected  with  it  than  myself.  My  thoughts  sometimes 
revert  to  the  happy  period  of  my  childhood,  when  exist- 
ence seemed  like  an  opening  dream,  and  the  world 
itself  a  blissful  paradise.  I  think  of  my  own  natural 
wildness  and  fondness  to  rove  !  of  the  playmates  of  my 
boyhood,  the  companions  of  my  youth — alas  !  where 
are  they  now  ?  scattered  far  and  wide  over  the  face  of 
the  earth,  or  sleeping  soundly  in  their  fresh-made 
graves  !  My  kind  parents,  too,  where  are  they  ?  Me- 
thinks  I  hear  them  sometimes  whispering  to  me  in  my 
dreams,  or  see  them  among  the  stars  of  heaven,  beckon- 
ing, as  it  were,  to  their  wayward  son  to  follow  them ; 
astonished,  T  awake  from  the  dream  and  find  a  solitary 
tear  trembling  on  my  eyelid  1  When  such  thoughts  as 
these  force  themselves  upon  me,  for  a  few  moments  I 
experience  a  pang  of  grief,  but  on  such  occasions  I 
always  rouse  myself  to  my  utmost,  and  generally  suc- 
ceed in  expelling  the  unwelcome  intruders  from  my 
mind.  We  should  not  be  too  extravagant  in  our  expec- 
tations of  future  pleasure,  else  we  shall  be  subject  to 
continual  disappointments  ;  neither  should  we  regret  too 
much  that  which  is  irrevocably  past,  for  by  so  doing  we 
not  only  throw  away  our  time,  but  we  render  ourselves 
miserable  for  the  sake  of  a  phantom,  and  insensible  to 
all  the  pleasures  of  the  present,  which,  under  other  cir- 
cumstances, might  have  afforded  us  peace  and  happi- 
ness. Truly,  how  often  do  men  relinquish  the  substance 
in  order  to  grasp  a  shadow  !" 


I'  A  K  A  .  101 

"  Well,  my  dear  fellow,"  said  I,  "  let  us  talk  no  longer 
about  shadows ;  the  sun  is  so  intolerably  hot,  that  my 
metaphysical  thoughts  and  sentiments  have  evaporated 
altogether,  and  I  sincerely  hope  (for  the  sake  of  the 
reader)  that  yours  have  also." 

"They  have,  I  assure  you,"  retorted  the  Englishman, 
putting  on  a  jolly  expression  ;  "  let  me  light  your  pipe, 
and  you  can  make  an  end  of  your  sadness — in  smoke  ! 
As  for  myself,  I  promise  to  be  as  lively  as  a  lark  during 
the  remainder  of  our  voyage.  Listen,  and  I'll  give  you  a 
song." 

"  Really,"  said  I,  as  soon  as  he  had  concluded,  "you 
have  more  of  the  nightingale  in  you  than  I  supposed, — 
that  chorus  was  delightful !  It  sounded  more  like  the 
music  of  a  full  choir,  than  of  two  persons,  so  intense  was 
the  stillness  of  Nature  when  you  began,  but  you  have 
aroused  all  the  birds  of  the  forest  from  their  noonday 
slumbers,  and  now  the  woods  are  alive  again  with  their 
strange  notes  and  uproarious  chattering.  They  seem  to 
be  calling  upon  you  for  an  encore  I" 

"  And  they  shall  have  it,"  said  he  ;  and  once  more  he 
joined  his  voice  with  that  of  Pedro,  and  again  the  same 
wild  and  thrilling  strain  swelled  upon  the  air,  calling 
loudly  upon  the  echoes  of  the  forest  for  a  response.  But 
they  answered  not !  The  song  had  hardly  ceased,  before 
a  large  flock  of  noisy  parrots  alighted  on  the  top  of  a  tree, 
not  far  from  our  canoe,  for  the  purpose  of  regaling  them- 
selves upon  its  fruit ;  instantly  a  report  from   my  gun, 


192  PARA, 

which  Pedro  had  caught  hastily  up,  brought  down  four 
of  the  feathered  chatterers  into  the  water.  They  were 
splendid  birds,  with  rich  green  wings,  and  a  spot  of  glow- 
ing crimson  on  their  backs.  Soon  after  this  incident,  we 
shot  two  odd-looking  birds,  called  by  the  natives  Ciganas, 
who  were  making  a  strange  and  vociferous  screaming  in 
the  dense  thicket  of  canes  and  low  bushes  on  our  left. 
They  were  about  the  size  of  champion  fighting  cocks,  of 
a  reddish  brown  color,  with  a  singular  crest  of  long 
feathers  on  their  head,  which  they  could  erect  or  depress 
at  pleasure.  A  perfect  specimen  of  the  Great  South 
American  Rail  also  fell  into  our  hands, — my  quick- eyed 
companion  caught  a  glimpse  of  him,  as  he  was  feeding 
in  apparent  security,  beneath  the  sheltering  roots  of  a 
spreading  mangrove.  In  a  monient  he  was  a  corpse. 
This  bird  is  an  especial  favorite  with  the  natives,  and  is 
not  only  esteemed  for  the  delicacy  of  its  flesh,  which  we 
considered  fully  equal  to  that  of  any  other  bird  we  tasted 
in  Brazil,  but  also  for  its  social  qualities,  as  well  as  its 
cheerful  voice.  It  seems  to  unite  the  virtues  of  the  Robin 
with  those  of  Chanticleer  !  Before  the  break  of  day,  and 
in  the  gloaming  of  eve,  we  were  accustomed  to  hear  its 
merry  voice,  chanting  in  loud,  yet  mellowed  tones,  the 
word  "  Cy-ra-cu-ra,"  which  the  Indians  have  adopted  as 
the  name  of  the  bird.  To  listen,  in  the  quiet  of  early 
evening,  to  the  notes  of  this  bird  was  to  me  a  source  of 
inexpressible  delight;  when  we  heard  them  for  the  first 
time  we  were  at  a  loss  to  determine  whether  the  mvstt- 


PARA.  193 

nous  sounds  came  from  man,  or  bird,  or  beast.  We 
could  scarcely  credit  the  fact,  that  this  tremendous  yet 
musical  uproar  emanated  from  the  throat  of  a  single 
bird.  It  seemed  to  our  ears  as  if  the  whole  forest  was 
vocal  with  the  strange  melody  of  a  thousand  unknown 
birds, 

Nearing  Jungcal,  most  of  the  natives  and  slaves  on  the 
place,  came  down  to  the  water's  edge  to  welcome  us. 
Having  secured  our  montaria,  we  were  conducted  up  to 
the  house  of  Anzevedo,  where  the  hospitable  Senhor  soon 
caused  a  substantial  meal  to  be  provided  for  us. 

"  I  have  a  pair  of  tame  Marreca  ducks  for  you,"  said  he, 
"  to  add  to  your  live  stock,  which  for  my  sake  you  will 
take  care  of  xohile  living,  and  preserve  when  dead,  as 
mementos  of  Jungcal.  They  have  lived  with  me  for 
many  months:  I  have  fed  them  daily  with  my  own 
hands,  and  have  become  quite  attached  to  them,  but  I 
freely  give  them  up  to  you,  and  am  sorry  that  I  have 
nothing  better  to  offer." 

"  Your  gift  is  as  acceptable,"  I  answered,  "  as  if  it  had 
been  that  of  a  kingdom.  You  give  me  that  which  you 
love,  the  absence  of  which  (however  trivial  to  others) 
will  occsvsion  you  a  certain  degree  of  sorrow — could  the 
richest  monarch  do  more  ?  We  can  only  judge  of  the 
value  of  a  gift  by  the  sacrifice  which  it  occasions  the 
donor,  and  a  single  lock  of  hair  from  those  we  love  is 
dearer  to  us  than  the  crowns  and  diadems  of  princes  !" 

At  5  o'clock  p.  M.,  I  bade  adieu  to  my  friend  the 
0 


194  PARA. 

Englishman,  and  shook  hands  for  the  last  time  with 
Anzevedo,  as  well  as  with  each  of  the  happy,  though 
unsophisticated  islanders.  Teresa  and  Florence  were 
more  aflfectionate,  inasmuch  as  they  each  of  them  favored 
me  with  a  parting  kiss ! 

It  was  evening  when  our  schooner  parted  from  its 
picturesque  moorings,  and  noiselessly  floated  down  the 
stream,  by  the  magic  light  of  ten  thousand  stars.  Over- 
powered with  fatigue,  I  finally  threw  myself  into  my 
hammock,  and  soon  sank  into  a  delicious  repose.  When 
morning  came  not  a  trace  of  land  was  to  be  seen  ;  a 
wide  waste  of  untroubled  waters  was  before  and  around 
us  !  *  *  *  Our  voyage  was  a  pleasant  one,  and,  on  the 
evening  of  the  fifth  day,  our  vessel  was  once  more  riding 
snugly  at  anchor  in  the  commodious  harbor  of  Para. 


PARA.  195 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

A  Night-Scene  in  the  Harbor  of  Para. — J.  again. — A  new 
Acquaintance — Present  of  a  Boa  Constrictor. — A  Walk  to 
Mr.  Campbell's  Roscenia. — Tiavellers' Tales. — A  Fourth  of 
July  Dinner. 

The  schooner  was  moored  about  forty  rods  from  the 
shore,  and  at  this  distance  the  appearance  of  the  city  was 
truly  romantic  and  beautiful.  The  moon  had  not  yet 
risen,  but  myriads  of  lustrous  stars  were  beaming  upon 
the  enchanting  scenery  which  surrounded  us.  The  little 
islands,  too,  which  dotted  here  and  there  the  lake-like 
expanse  of  the  river,  loomed  up  in  the  distance  like  the 
palaces  of  sylvan  deities,  while  the  gloomy  forest  which 
stood  in  all  its  solemn  magnificence  along  the  Amazonian 
banks,  seemed  like  a  gigantic  and  impenetrable  wall 
of  strange  and  never-fading  verdure. 

It  was  late,  and  the  spirit  of  silence  brooded  over  the 
slumbering  city  !  The  only  sounds  which  came  to  our 
ears  were  the  occasional  harsh  cries  of  wild  animals — 
the  wiishing  of  the  tide  upon  the  beach,  and  the  doleful 
notes  of  nocturnal  birds.  So  captivating  was  the  scene, 
that  for  hours  after  my  arrival  I  thought  not  of  repose, 
but  paced  up  and  down  the  dock  like  an  unlaid  ghost ; 


196  PARA. 

until  at  last  nature  becoming  exhausted,  I  consigned 
myself  to  my  hammock,  to  dream  of  the  pleasures  I  bad 
already  experienced,  and  of  the  kind  friends  I  expected 
to  meet  on  the  morrow. 

Soon  after  sunrise  Gaviono  bad  my  luggage  all  placed 
in  the  montaria,  and  accompanied  me  himself  not  only 
to  the  shore,  but  even  to  Mr.  Campbell's  house.  As  soon 
as  I  bad  shaken  bands  with  Mr.  Campbell,  who  received 
me  with  the  kindness  of  a  father,  my  first  inquiries  were 
concerning  my  beloved  companion,  "  J."  who,  the  reader 
will  remember,  separated  from  me  at  Jungcal. 

"  You  will  find  him  in  bis  room,  I  think,"  said  Mr. 
Campbell.  "  He  did  not  retire  until  very  late  last  night, 
and  I  hardly  think  he  has  yet  risen.  We  spent  the 
evening  together  in  playing  cribbage." 

At  this  moment  J.  issued  from  bis  apartment,  and  we 
threw  ourselves  cordially  into  each  other's  arms.  "  My 
dear  fellow,"  asked  I,  "  pray  where  have  you  been  since 
I  last  saw  you  ?" 

"  My  bead-quarters,"  replied  be,  "  have  been  at  Nazere, 
but  a  considerable  portion  of  my  time  has  been  spent  in 
the  city.  Last  week  I  revisited  Caripe.  The  recollec- 
tion, however,  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Graham,  who  were 
drowned  there  so  recently,  rendered  the  place  more  soli- 
tary and  lonely  than  ever,  and  clouded  the  enjoyment 
which  I  otherwise  might  have  experienced." 

"  I  spent  a  day  moreover  at  the  Una,"  said  J., 
"  and  returned  the  following  morning.    I  went  thither  to 


197 


attend  a  kind  of  jubilee  or  festival,  and  we  had  a 
very  jovial  scene.  The  evening  was  devoted  to  music, 
dancing,  and  feasting,  and  that,  too,  in  the  beautifully 
laid-out  grounds  of  the  garden.  I  wished  heartily 
that  you  had  been  with  me,  for  I  know  that  you  would 
have  enjoyed  yourself  exceedingly.  I  was  at  Taau  for 
full  three  days  ;  this  is  an  estate,  you  are  aware,  belong- 
ing to  Archibald  Campbell,  Esq.  It  is  situated  on  a  high 
bank,  and  is  decidedly  the  most  charming  spot  I  have 
yet  seen  in  Brazil.  I  killed  several  fine  toucans  there, 
and  some  other  rare  as  well  as  handsome  birds.  The 
natives  procured  for  me  quite  a  number  of  curiosities, 
among  which  was  a  large  sloth,  two  or  three  kinds  of 
armadilloes,  together  with  a  miscellaneous  assortment  of 
insects  and  reptiles,  all  of  which  I  preserved  and  brought 
with  me  to  the  city." 

"  You  certainly  have  been  making  the  most  of  your 
time,"  I  replied  ;  "  but  have  you  decided  where  wc  are 
to  go  next  ?" 

"  By  all  means,"  said  J.,  "  providing  you  are  willing 
and  in  readiness.  We  will  go  to  Mr.  Upton's  rice-mills 
at  Maguary,  without  delay — say  the  day  after  to-mor- 
row." 

"  The  very  place  !"  I  exclaimed  with  delight.  "  We 
will  depart  on  the  morning  of  the  fifth.  Do  the  Ameri- 
cans purpose  making  any  manifestation  to-morrow,  the 
glorious  anniversary  of  our  independence  ?" 

"  They  have  made  preparations  for  having  a  grand 


198 


national  dinner,  to  which  we  are  both  invited,"  said  he. 
*'  It  will,  doubtless,  be  a  very  interesting  affair,  and  there 
will  probably  be  as  many  Enghshmen  present  as  Ame- 
ricans." 

"  And  as  many  toasts,  I  suppose,  given  in  honor  of 
her  Most  Gracious  Majesty  Queen  Victoria  and  the 
worthies  of  England,  as  in  favor  of  Washington  and  the 
heroes  of  the  revolution.  Nothing  shall  prevent  me  from 
attending.  Will  you  be  present  ?"  I  inquired  of  Mr. 
Campbell. 

"  I  do  not  think  that  I  shall  be  able  to  attend,"  said 
he  ;  "  but  if  I  do  not,  Peter  the  Dutchman  shall  go  as 
my  substitute.  lie  well  deserves  that  privilege,  for  the 
old  fellow  fought  bravely  for  the  honor  of  the  United 
States  on  board  the  '  Constitution,'  during  her  engage- 
ment with  the  '  Guerriere.'  Although  he  has  a  Dutch 
stomach,  yet  his  heart  is  truly  American.' 

During  the  continuation  of  the  foregoing  conversation 
an  important  visitor  arrived :  it  was  Captain  Hayden, 
commander  of  the  port  of  Para,  and,  for  the  time  being, 
second  only  in  rank  to  the  established  governor  of  the 
province.  He  had,  at  the  moment  we  have  introduced 
him  to  the  reader,  just  concluded  his  morning's  prome- 
nade, and  had  stopped  at  Campbell's,  as  he  was  wont 
to  do  often,  for  the  purpose  of  breakfasting  with  him. 
A  nobler  specimen  of  a  man,  as  regards  symmetry  of  form 
and  dignity  of  aspect,  could  not  easily  be  found.  He  was 
above  six  feet  in  height,  with  extremely  broad  shoulders 


199 


and  a  wonderful  capacious  cliost,  which  displayed  out  to 
advantage  his  richly-worked  military  waistcoat,  the  left 
side  of  which  was  superbly  decorated  with  two  golden 
st;irs,  pendent  from  gay  ribbons  and  glittering  with  the 
richest  gems.  Within  a  few  minutes  after  his  reception, 
on  invitation  of  Mr.  Campbell,  he  doffed  his  cumbrous 
military  coat,  and  put  on  in  its  stead  a  light  cotton  jacket 
or  blouse,  which  was  furnished  him  by  his  kind  and  ac- 
commodating host.  A  slave  now  announced  to  us  that 
breakfcist  was  ready,  so  we  lost  no  time  in  taking  our 
seats  at  the  table.  In  five  minutes  we  were  each  suppli- 
ed with  a  steaming  cup  of  tea — coffee,  it  will  be  borne 
in  mintl,  being  only  served  at  sunrise  and  immediately 
after  dinner, 

"  Young  men,"  said  the  Captain,  addressing  us  in  the 
blandest  manner  possible,  while  a  smile  of  ineffable  good- 
ness lighted  up  his  benignant  countenance,  "it  gives  me 
great  pleasure  to  have  met  you.  Suffice  it  for  me  to  say, 
that  as  you  are  the  friends  of  Mr.  Campbell,  from  this 
time  henceforth  you  arc  my  friends,  and  if  I  can  do  you 
any  service  whatever,  it  shall  be  cheerfully  performed. 
By  the  way,  I  have  a  rare  curiosity  for  you  out  at  the 
Roscenia,  which  you  are  at  perfect  liberty  to  take  away 
whenever  vuu  pleiise.  It  is  a  young  boa-constrictor, 
about  fifteen  feet  in  length,  handsomely  marked  and  very 
lively.  I  have  kept  him  confined  in  a  barrel  for  some 
weeks  past,  but  he  has  two  or  three  times  escaped  from 
his  prison,  and  we  have  on  such  occasions  had  not  a  little 


200  PARA. 

difficulty  in  capturing  him  again.  I  sliould  be  pleased 
to  have  you  walk  out  with  nie  this  morning  and  pay 
your  compliments  to  his  snakeship.  He  would,  doubt- 
less, be  glad  to  see  his  new  masters." 

"Many  thanks  for  the  boa,"  replied  J.;  "you  could 
not  have  made  us  a  more  acceptable  present.  For  my- 
self, I  should  like  very  much  to  go  out  and  see  him. 
What  say  you,  Jack  ?" 

"  Nothing  would  please  me  more,"  I  answered. 

"  Then,  my  boys,"  said  the  warm- hearted  captain,  "we 
had  better  set  out  before  the  sun  gets  much  higher : 
otherwise,  unless  you  are  perfect  salamanders,  you  will 
be  pretty  thoroughly  baked  before  we  reach  the  Roscenia. 
It  will  be  well  for  you  to  carry  your  guns  along,  as  it  is 
not  improbable  that  we  may  meet  with  game  of  some 
kind  on  the  route." 

"  Thank  you  for  the  hint,"  exclaimed  J. ;  "  and  if  you 
■will  excuse  us  for  a  few  moments,  while  we  retire  to  our 
room,  we  will  accoutre  ourselves  immediately  for  the  ex- 
cursion." 

Returning  shortly,  we  presented  quite  a  hostile  ap- 
pearance, with  our  long  hunting-boots,  white  pantaloons, 
loose  blouses,  and  broad-brimmed  Panama  hats.  On  our 
eft  sides  were  suspended  our  fringed  game-pouches,  while 
with  one  hand  we  carried  our  faithful  guns,  and  in  the 
other  our  trusty  tracados.  Thus  equipped  we  started 
with  the  Captain  for  the  Roscenia. 

The  morning  was  unusually  pleasant,  and  the  temper- 


201 


ature  of  the  atmosphere  not  uncomfortable.  A  hght 
breeze  was  blowing  from  the  forest,  freighted  with  the 
aroma  of  flowers,  while  the  air  itself  was  so  transparent, 
that  it  seemed  to  offer  no  barrier  whatever  to  our  vision. 
The  life  and  vivacity  of  the  mottled  crowd  with  which 
the  streets  were  thronged,  formed  a  striking  contrast  to 
the  prevailing  stillness  and  native  solitude  of  Marajo. 
Fruit-women  were  marching  about  with  huge  trays  on 
their  heads,  covered  with  a  tempting  variety  of  tropical 
fruits  ;  parties  of  negroes  were  sauntering  through  the 
street,  engaged  in  transporting  burdens  of  diflerent 
kinds ;  officers  and  soldiers  on  guard  were  strolling 
indolently  up  and  down  ;  while  hosts  of  juveniles  of  both 
sexes,  were  playing  with  each  other  as  merrily  as  so 
many  unsophisticated  doves ! 

"  If  I  am  not  too  bold,"  inquired  J.  of  the  Captain, 
"  pardon  me  for  saying  that  I  think  you  cannot  be  a 
Brazilian  by  birth.     Are  you  not  an  Englishman  ?" 

"I  certainly  am  neither  a  native  Brazilian  nor  of 
Brazilian  parentage,"  replied  the  Captain  good-humor- 
edly  ;  "  but  for  nearly  twenty-five  years  have  I  been  in 
the  service  of  this  country,  and  am,  therefore,  by  this 
time  pretty  well  acclimated.  In  reality,  I  am  a  son  of 
Erin,  and  love  my  country  well ;  but  circumstances,  and 
not  choice,  have  controlled  my  destiny,  and  forced  me 
to  seek  my  fortune  in  this  foreign  land.  In  early  life  I 
served  iis  a  midshipman  in  the  English  navy  ;  some  years 
afterwards  I  married  a  lady  of  rank  at  Rio  de  Janeiro." 
9* 


202  PARA. 

"  And  is  she  living  now  ?"  asked  J. 

"  Oh,  yes,  she  is  still  alive,  thank  God  !"  said  the 
Captain,  "  and  resides  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  I  have  a  small 
yet  delightful  estate  just  in  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  and 
which  I  consider  mij  home.  True,  my  situation  of  post- 
captain  keeps  me  absent  from  it  for  a  great  portion  of 
the  year,  yet  it  is  none  the  less  dear  to  me ;  for  where  a 
man's  heart  and  affections  are  centred,  there,  oh,  there, 
for  ever  is  his  home  !" 

Engaged  in  conversation  we  at  length  arrived  at  Mr. 
Campbell's  Roscenia. 

Its  situation  was  very  convenient  as  well  as  retired. 
The  house,  although  rather  smaller  than  the  one  we 
occupied  at  Nazere,  was,  nevertheless,  quite  comfortable, 
and  exceedingly  well  adapted  for  a  bachelor's  hall.  It 
had  a  cheerful  little  veranda,  and,  like  most  Brazilian 
mansions,  was  roofed  with  earthenware  tiles.  A  slave 
opened  the  door,  and  we  entered  into  the  Captain's 
principal  apartment.  It  was  strewed  with  books,  musical 
instruments,  and  military  accoutrements,  and  was  well 
supplied  with  chairs  and  other  articles  of  furniture,  which 
had  evidently  been  brought  from  his  vessel.  The  Cap- 
tain's steward  soon  placed  before  us  a  tempting  collation 
of  rare  fruit,  cake,  and  sparkling  wine.  Having  regaled 
ourselves  to  our  satisfaction.  Captain  Hayden  presented 
us  with  some  superior  cigars,  which  we  straightway 
ignited,  and  then  proceeded  to  take  a  rambling  stroll 
through  the  garden. 


208 


"  Wliere  is  the  bou  of  which  yuu  spoke  to  us  1"  I 
asked. 

"I  will  show  him  to  you  presently,"  said  the  Captain: 
"  he  is  confined  in  that  large  barrel  under  the  veranda. 
So  come  with  me,  and  we  will  take  a  look  at  his  lord- 
ship." 

Approaching  the  barrel,  we  perceived  that  its  cover 
was  supplied  with  a  kind  of  trap-door,  made  of  netted 
wire.  Looking  through  this,  as  the  light  shone  upon  it 
we  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  slumbering  serpent, 
coiled  up  in  prodigious  folds,  pile  upon  pile,  until  he 
almost  reached  the  top  of  the  cask.  The  Captain  gave 
the  barrel  a  hard  kick  with  his  foot,  which  roused  the 
drowsy  animal  from  its  death-like  stupor,  when  opening 
his  capacious  mouth,  and  thrusting  out  his  forked  tongue, 
he  hissed  so  loudly,  that  the  infernal  sound  might  have 
been  heard  by  a  listening  ear  at  the  extremest  part  of  the 
garden.  Breaking  upon  the  silence  of  a  lonely  forest, 
how  intensely  fearful  must  it  be  ! 

"  To  what  length  do  these  boas  sometimes  attain  ?" 
inquired  J. 

"That  I  cannot  exactly  say,"  responded  the  Captain; 
"  stories  are  often  told  by  travellers  of  their  reaching  the 
length  of  forty,  fifty,  and  even  sixty  feet,  but  long  as  I 
have  lived  in  Brazil,  I  have  never  seen  one  more  than 
twenty,  and  never  heard  a  well  authenticated  account  of 
one  that  was  above  thirty  feet  in  length.  Travellei-s  often 
indulge  in  monstrous  stories,  sometimes  bordering  upon 


204  PARA, 

Gulliverism  or  Munchausenism.  In  reading  the  narra- 
tives of  unknown  adventurers,  especially  of  the  young  and 
inexperienced,  I  always  make  tlie  necessary  discount.  In 
this  age,  truth  seems  to  be  depreciating,  and  he  to  get  the 
greatest  credit  who  perpetrates  the  most  ingenious  fibs." 
"  I  believe  you  are  not  far  from  the  right,"  said  J. ; 
"but  men  sometimes  are  guilty  of  most  preposterous 
exaggerations,  when  they  themselves  think  they  are 
adhering  strictly  to  the  truth.  Men  sometimes  deceive 
themselves  as  egregiously  as  they  do  others.  A  sea- 
faring friend  of  mine,  in  whom  I  place  sincere  confidence, 
told  me  that  on  one  occasion,  while  he  was  walking  in  the 
"woods  of  Guiana,  he  came  across  the  body  of  an  enor- 
mous snake,  who  had  unintentionally  committed  suicide  by 
swallowing  a  deer,  the  horns  of  which  had  stuck  in  his 
throat,  thereby  choking  him  to  death.  He  stated,  more- 
over, that  at  another  time,  with  the  assistance  of  his 
crew,  he  succeeded  in  kiUing  a  snake  in  the  forest,  which 
he  should  judge  must  have  been  between  seventy  and 
eighty  feet  in  length  !  I  immediately  began  to  suspect 
that  his  optics  were  of  a  deceptive  nature,  therefore  said 
I  to  him,  '  Captain,  how  far  do  you  think  it  is  from  the 
place  where  you  now  stand  to  yonder  tree  V  pointing  a 
certain  one  out  to  him.  '  About  the  length  of  my 
snake,'  I  should  think,  said  he.  We  measured  the  dis- 
tance, and  found  it  to  be,  not  eighty,  but  only  thirty  feet ! 
The  captain  was  nonplussed,  and,  as  you  may  suppose, 
my  risibihties  were  considerably  excited." 


PARA.  205 

In  the  furtlier  part  of  the  garden  wo  observed  a  kind 
of  open  shed,  beneath  which  were  a  number  of  slaves 
engaged  in  making  farina.  The  fruit  trees  of  the  Kos- 
cenia  were  various,  but  the  most  conspicuous  were  those 
laden  with  oranges,  mangoes,  and  alligator  pears.  There 
were  a  few  cocoa-nut  trees,  too,  and  plants  and  flowers  of 
a  hundred  kinds.  From  the  topmost  branches  of  one  of 
the  loftiest  trees  on  the  place,  hung  an  extraordinary 
species  of  vine,  which  appeared  to  derive  its  nourishment 
from  the  air  alone.  At  our  desire,  one  of  the  young 
negro-lads  climbed  up  into  the  tree  and  cut  it  off  about 
midway  to  the  top.  The  portion  we  thus  secured  was 
nearly  fifty  feet  in  length.  In  pliability  and  toughness  it 
was  not  at  all  inferior  to  rope,  as  a  substitute  for  which 
it  is  universally  used  by  the  natives. 

We  saw  several  bright  birds  which  were  flying  about 
among  the  fruit  trees  of  the  Eoscenia.  Among  the 
rarest,  were  a  pair  of  blue  and  yellow  creepers,  a  couple 
of  ruby-throated  humming-birds,  and  a  single  azure- 
winged  and  purple-throated  chatterer.  Besides  these, 
we  collected  a  number  of  butterflies,  moths,  and  beetles, 
some  of  which  were  of  astonishing  size,  and  of  remarka- 
ble beauty. 

"  The  Captain  is  a  wonderfully  clever  fellow,"  said  J., 
soon  after  leaving  the  Eoscenia.  "  Verily,  I  am  pleased 
to  have  made  his  acquaintance.  That  boa  he  presented 
us  with  is  a  right  valuable  prize,  and  will  make  rather  an 
unusual  companion  for  us  on  our  return  voyage  to  the 


206 


United  States.  What  a  sensation  his  advent  will  create 
in  the  pleasant  little  city  of  Troy,  if  he  should  be  so  for- 
tunate as  ever  to  get  there  !  What  an  excitement  there 
will  be  among  the  juveniles  to  see  him  !  What  flutter- 
ings  among  the  beautiful  damsels  whenever  his  lordship 
is  mentioned ;  what  grave  speculations  among  the 
philosophers  of  the  Lyceum  !  and  what  solicitations  for 
his  skin  by  the  proprietors  of  the  different  museums  ! 
Oh  !  most  amiable  of  boas,  are  you  aware  of  the  distinc- 
tion that  is  before  thee  !" 

"  Upon  my  word,  J.,  I  agree  with  you,  that  we  have 
secured  a  treasure  in  that  gigantic  snake !  He  is  not 
only  enormous,  but,  in  my  humble  estimation,  positively 
handsome,  and  this  opinion  I  will  maintain  in  defiance  of 
all  adversaries.  How  rich  are  the  tints  of  his  skin!  and 
who  shall  say  that  those  large  leopard-like  spots  witb 
■which  he  is  mottled  are  not  really  beautiful !  Then 
what  a  smooth  and  sharp-pointed  head  !  what  white  and 
shining  teeth,  and  what  a  long  and  arrow-hke  tongue ! 
But  oh !  that  horrible,  soul-penetrating  hiss,  it  rings  in  my 
ears  at  this  moment,  and  if  not  soon  banished  from  my 
mind,  will  surely  haunt  me  in  my  dreams !  But  why 
should  it  give  rise  to  fear,  when  we  know  that  fear  is  but 
the  result  in  a  great  measure  of  association.  The  falsely 
educated  become  nervously  and  unnaturally  timid :  to 
such,  the  gloaming  of  eve  is  fraught  with  images  of 
terror ;  and  shrouded  by  the  dusky  twilight,  every  waving 
tree  becomes  an  apparition,  and  every  snow-white  sheet — 


J>  A  R  A  .  207 

a  ghost !  But  how  different  is  the  case  with  those  whose 
imaginations  have  been  properly  curbed  and  restrained 
in  early  youth,  llow  brave,  how  bold,  how  lion-hearted 
are  they  !  These  are  the  men  who  dread  no  evil  by  day, 
or  think  not  of  horrors  by  night ;  these  are  the  raen  who 
can  look  with  a  just  appreciation  upon  the  mysterious 
works  of  their  infinite  Creator,  without  that  recoil  upon 
themselves  which  the  fearful  experience ;  and  again, 
these  are  the  men,  too,  who  are  seen  in  the  foremost 
ranks  of  battle,  animating  their  fullowers  by  their 
courageous  example,  and  who,  like  '  Captain  Lawton  of 
the  Spy,^  when  encompassed  by  enemies,  fall  heroically 
in  the  defence  of  their  country,  with  their  sabres  wheeling 
round  their  heads,  and  their  last  words  re-echoing  his 
heroic,  yet  proud  defiance — '  Come  on  !'  Beauty, 
likewise,  depends  greatly  upon  association.  There  is 
beauty  in  everything,  although  all  have  not  the  power  of 
discerning  it.  With  what  ecstasy  will  a  mineralogist 
gaze  upon  an  apparently  coarse  and  common  stone ! 
With  what  ardor  will  a  botanist  feast  his  eyes  upon  an 
unknown  plant,  however  insignificant  to  the  ignorant  it 
may  appear !  and  with  what  delight  will  a  conchologist 
chirp  over  the  smallest  and  darkest  shell,  if  it  is  one 
which  he  has  never  seen  before  !  Do  not  these  men  see 
beauty  where  others  see  it  not  ?  If  so,  the  conclusion  is 
unavoidable,  that  if  persons  were  able  to  appreciate, 
everything  would  be  beautiful,  and  this  dreamy  world, 
as  some  unfortunate  misanthropes  term  it,  would  be  a 


208 


paradise  indeed — a  fitting  habitation  for  the  soul,  while 
imprisoned  in  this  perishable  tabernacle  of  flesh." 

The  following  morning  was  as  serene  and  lovely  as 
even  the  Ame  icans  themselves  could  desire.  It  was  the 
birth-day  of  their  boasted  independence.  Its  dawn  was 
ushered  by  no  roar  of  cannon,  ringing  of  bells,  or  pealing 
of  artillery.  The  sun-light  of  the  tropics  came  in  solemn 
splendor,  and  the  whisperings  of  the  fragrant  zephyrs  and 
the  warbling  of  early  birds,  were  the  only  sounds  which 
accompanied  it.  All  was  still ;  but  it  was  a  day  sacred 
to  the  goddess  of  Liberty  ! 

The  national  flag,  which  floated  from  one  of  the  upper 
windows  of  the  house  where  the  dinner  was  to  take  place, 
was  the  only  evidence  during  the  morning  that  the  day 
was  one  of  peculiar  importance  to  the  American  people. 

At  three  o'clock  p.  m.  we  were  summoned  to  the 
banquet.  The  dinner,  as  far  as  edibles  and  potables  were 
concerned,  was  much  better  than  we  could  have  antici- 
pated, and  several  dishes  had  been  prepared  for  the 
occasion  which  we  had  never  met  with  before  in  Brazil. 
The  room  was  appropriately  bedizened  with  flags  of 
many  nations.  The  guests  numbered  thirty-five,  and  a 
more  miscellaneous  assortment  could  not  easily  have 
been  selected.  The  English  and  Americans  were  about 
equal  in  number ;  then  there  were  Irishmen,  Dutchmen, 
Frenchmen,  Russians,  Portuguese,  Brazilians,  and  some 
others.  The  toasts,  which  were  numerous,  were  as 
various  in  their  character  as  the  difierent  banners  which 


209 


decked  the  apartment.  Everything  was  conducted  with 
perfect  decorum  and  order,  and  all  appeared  to  be  well 
satisfied  with  their  share  of  the  entertainment.  Through- 
out the  repast,  a  fine  band  of  thirty  musicians  continued 
to  play  national  airs  in  an  adjoining  room,  which  added 
much  to. the  festivities  of  the  day.  At  nine  o'clock  the 
company  retired  for  their  respective  homes. 

On  the  morrow  we  were  to  leave  for  Maguary.  This 
place,  in  a  direct  line,  is  not  more  than  twelve  miles  from 
the  city,  although  by  water  the  distance  is  much  greater. 
We  proposed  making  the  trip  on  foot,  as  the  route 
through  the  forest  is  much  the  shortest,  and,  for  strangers, 
altogether  the  most  pleasant  and  interesting.  As  our 
luggage  and  ammunition  had  been  sent  by  the  canoe  in 
the  morning,  there  was  nothing  to  hinder  us  from  taking 
this  course.     We  therefore  adopted  it. 


210  PARA, 


c  n  A  p  T  r^  R    X  X  . 

Dawn  in  the  Forest. — A  rhapsody  by  J. — A  beautiful  Land- 
scape.— Piscatory  Breakfast. — Peraricon  and  Electrical  Eels. 
— Eel  Stories. — Mode  of  Capturing  them  in  Guiana. — A  retired 
Bath. — A  strange  Tableau. 

At  least  an  hour  before  the  break  of  day  -we  sallied 
forth  from  the  silent  gloom  of  the  city,  and  jihmged  at 
once  into  the  solitude  and  darkness  of  the  forest.  We 
were  accompanied  by  the  machinist  of  the  mills,  who, 
having  resided  at  the  Maguary  for  some  years  past,  was 
not  only  perfectly  familiar  with  the  route,  but  had  more- 
over an  extensive  knowledge'  of  the  pro\ince,  its  nume- 
rous wild  animals,  birds,  and  natural  productions.  For 
us,  therefore,  on  the  present  occasion,  he  was  both  a 
trusty  guide  as  well  as  an  interesting  companion. 

All  nature  seemed  to  be  now  hushed  in  sleep ; 
neither  the  note  of  a  bird,  the  buzz  of  an  insect,  nor  the 
cry  of  an  animal  disturbed  the  profound  silence  as  we 
walked  rapidly  onward  through  a  crooked  pathway  of 
the  wilderness,  arched  by  the  meeting  of  the  treetops.  A 
stroll  among  the  tombs  of  some  remote  and  antiquated 
church-yard  could- not  have  been  more  solemn  and  im- 
pressive  than   the   commencement  of   this,   our  lonely 


PARA.  211 

journey  towards  Maguary.  Trees  of  gigantic  dimen- 
sions towered  iip  proudly  on  either  side,  hiding  the  very 
stars  from  our  view  by  the  heaviness  of  their  drooping 
branches.  Our  own  voices  alone  disturbed  the  deep 
quiet  which  pervaded  the  forest — no  rippling  of  stream- 
lets broke  upon  our  ears,  and  even  the  gentle  winds 
were  still. 

But  a  flood  of  light  came  at  last,  penetrating  through 
the  thick  canopy  of  foliage.  It  announced  the  dawn  of 
another  beautiful  day.  A  scene  of  unparalleled  magnifi- 
cence now  opened  upon  us.  The  trees  on  every  side 
looked  as  if  they  were  made  of  emeralds,  while  the  dew- 
drops  on  every  leaf  glittered  like  precious  gems.  The 
animal  and  vegetable  kingdom  became  simultaneously 
reanimated,  and  the  wild  woods  rang  with  the  glad 
voices  of  ten  thousand  awakened  birds — flocks  of  parrots 
chattered  vociferously  over  our  heads,  toucans  screamed 
from  the  summits  of  the  loftiest  trees,  while  numbers  of 
red-crowned  and  white-bearded  manakins  flew  across 
our  path,  and  sprightly  humming  birds  gleamed  in  sud- 
den flights  from  flower  to  flower.  Above  all,  however, 
sounded  the  clear  metallic  notes  of  the  bell-bird,  ringing 
forth  in  soft  melodious  tones,  the  cheerful  "  break  of 
day." 

"  What  an  extraordinary  contrast  I"  exclaimed  J^ 
with  rapture.  "Half  an  hour  ago  the  silence  and 
gloom  were  as  perfect  as  that  of  the  dungeons  of  the 
Inquisition  ;  now  wo  are   in  the   midst   of  a  Paradise ! 


212  PARA. 

and  all  our  senses  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  Tropical 
•woods,  the  music  of  southern  birds,  and  the  delicious 
fragrance  of  breathing  flowers  !" 

"  Oh  the  pleasures  of  liberty  and  health  !"  shouted 
he ;  "  who  can  adequately  appreciate  these  invaluable 
blessings,  save  he  who  has  been  for  a  time  deprived  of 
them  !  What  a  thrill  of  joy  must  pervade  the  bosom  of 
the  slave  when  he  feels  for  the  first  time  that  he  is  free, 
•when  he  hears  the  magic  word  pronounced  which  assures 
him  that  his  days  of  servitude  are  over ;  or  to  the  lone 
•wretch  who  has  been  pining  away  for  years  in  the  dreary 
solitude  of  a  convict's  cell,  how  gladdening  to  his  heart 
must  be  the  voice  of  liberty  !  But  to  the  hapless  victim 
of  disease,  deprived  of  both  liberty  and  health,  with  hope 
like  a  dark  column  turned  against  him,  and  the  certainty 
of  death  staring  him  in  the  face,  with  what  remorse  must 
he  reflect  upon  his  past  career  when  the  conviction  is 
forced  upon  him  that  the  yawning  grave  into  which  he 
is  about  to  plunge,  is  the  summary  punishment  of  his 
own  false  indulgences,  and  of  his  own  reckless  violation 
of  nature's  laws.  To  maintain  health,  it  is  only  neces- 
sary that  we  should  live  in  accordance  with  the  immuta- 
ble laws  which  the  Creator  of  the  universe  has  estab- 
lished." 

^  Pursuing  our  journey  at  a  rapid  pace  for  about  three 
hours,  -we  began  to  hear  the  distant  rumbling  of  the 
mills.  The  road  •was  here  considerably  wider,  and  much 
of  the  underbrush  of  the  forest  had  been  cleared  away. 


PARA.  213 

Besides,  we  were  no  longer  sheltered  by  the  overhanging 
branches  of  trees,  but  were  exposed  to  the  full  glare  of  the 
unclouded  sun.  Emerging  at  length  from  the  cool  shade 
of  the  woods,  we  stood  upon  a  sandy  mound,  and  feasted 
our  eyes  upon  the  charming  landscape  which  lay  spread 
out  before  us.  The  scene,  although  not  very  extensive,  was 
one  of  exquisite  and  varied  beauty.  Away,  off  to  our 
right,  we  saw  the  waters  of  a  silver-like  lake,  gleaming 
through  the  interstices  of  the  forest  foliage,  and  shining 
like  a  pure  diamond  set  around  with  emerald  stones. 
From  it  ran  a  small  brook,  which  meandered  through 
the  lovely  plain,  and  emptied  itself  into  a  larger  stream 
which  flowed  under  the  very  windows  of  the  mills  ;  this 
again,  after  a  few  rods,  lost  itself  in  the  darkness  of  the 
contiguous  wilderness  into  which  it  gushed  with  a  mur- 
muring sound,  as  it  sported  onwards  in  a  winding  course 
to  pay  its  tribute  to  the  majestic  Amazon. 

The  mill  was  a  prodigious  building,  and  constructed 
almost  entirely  of  stone.  Its  machinery  was  controlled 
by  the  power  of  steam,  and  from  a  small  pipe  at  the  top 
of  the  building,  a  cloud  of  vapor  was  continually  belching 
forth  !  Near  to  this  antique  looking  edi6ce  was  a  group 
of  thatched  cottages,  which  were  tenanted  by  the  differ- 
ent natives  and  slaves  employed  on  the  estate.  These 
lay  along  the  borders  of  the  forest,  and  added  not  a  little 
to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  scene. 

"  Well,  now  wo  are  at  our  journey's  end,"  said  Mr. 
W.,  our  intelligent  escort,  "  we  must  try  and  get  some 


214  PARA. 

breakfast.  I  suppose  exercise  and  abstinence  have  nearly 
the  same  effect  on  all ;  if  so,  you  must  feel  after  your 
toilsome  walk  of  twelve  miles  in  length,  and  four  hours 
in  duration,  as  if  you  would  like  to  prey  upon  something ; 
as  for  myself,  I  am  just  now  as  rapacious  as  a  condor,  or 
as  hungry  as  a  nun  after  three  days'  fasting  and  prayer." 

Arriving  at  the  mill,  we  ascended  a  flight  of  steps 
which  carried  us  up  to  a  spacious  veranda,  running  the 
entire  length  of  the  building.  At  the  extreme  end  of 
this  covered  gallery  was  a  large  room  on  the  right,  which 
Mr.  W.  informed  us  was  set  anart  for  our  express  accom- 
modation. It  was  quite  comfortable,  and  from  its  win- 
dows we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  forest,  and  of  the  plea- 
sant patch  of  meadow  land  which  intervened,  variegated 
as  it  was  with  flowering  bushes  and  tall  palm  trees, 
standing  like  watchful  sentries  in  the  shadow  of  the 
wilderness  !  Breakfast  was  soon  prepared  for  us  under 
the  veranda.  It  was  rather  of  a  piscatory  character, 
consisting  chiefly  of  "  peraricon"  and  "  electrical  eels,"  the 
former  broiled,  the  latter  fried. 

"  I  do  not  know  what  the  natives  of  Brazil  would  do 
for  food  were  it  not  for  the  abundance  and  cheapness  of 
'  peraricon,' "  said  Mr.  W.  "  It  is  a  fish  which  in  appear- 
ance bears  a  considerable  resemblance  to  the  American 
codfish,  and  is  common  in  most  of  the  large  rivers  and 
streams  of  the  country.  It  is  dried  in  the  sun  by  the 
natives,  and  with  a  great  many  it  constitutes  a  principal 
article  of  food  1  no  black  or  Indian  is  bo  poor  but  that  he 


PARA.  215 

can  readily  procure  a  sufficiency  of  this  fish  and  farina  for 
the  support  of  himself  and  family.  But,  by  the  way, 
what  do  you  thiuk  of  the  eels  ?" 

"  They  are  not  at  all  unpalatable,"  replied  J.,  "  but 
really  I  think  them  rather  dangerous  for  starving  persons 
to  feed  upon,  they  are  so  confoundedly  bony.  I  have 
choked  myself  half  a  dozen  times  already,  and  the  lower 
part  of  my  throat  methiiiks  must  be  wretchedly  lace- 
rated;  however,  I  would  much  rather  meddle  with  them 
in  their  present  condition  than  when  alive.  How 
decidedly  inconvenient  it  would  be,  to  say  the  least,  to 
receive  a  severe  shock  from  one  while  indulging  in  a  deli- 
cious bath,  with  a  company  of  olive-cheeked  mermaids; 
under  such  circumstances  I  should  hardly  know  whether 
to  run  or  swim,  or  throw  myself  into  the  arms  of  the 
long-haired  nymphs  for  protection  1  Are  these  singular 
fish  abundant  in  this  vicinity  ?  If  so,  I  believe  I  shall 
abjure  bathing  for  some  time  to  come." 

"  They  cannot  be  said  to  be  numerous  here,"  said  ^Ir. 
W.,  "  although  scarcely  a  week  pjisses  by  without  one  or 
more  of  them  being  caught.  You  need  not  give  yourself 
any  uneasiness  about  bathing,  for  it  is  very  seldom  that 
persons  are  struck  by  them  while  in  the  water,  although 
instances  of  this  kind  sometimes  occur.  But  I  will  take 
you  to  a  place  where  you  can  bathe  with  perfect  security, 
and  where  you  will  be  delightfully  sheltered  from  the 
parching  rays  of  the  sun." 

Speaking  ou  the  subject  of  electrical  eels,  it  may  not  be 


216 


out  of  place  to  remark,  that  a  gentleman  in  the  city  had 
an  enormous  one,  which  was  upwards  of  ten  feet  in 
length.  So  great  was  its  power,  that  on  a  certain  occa- 
sion it  is  said  to  have  prostrated  a  full-grown  cow  which 
drank  accidentally  from  the  vessel  in  which  it  was  con- 
fined. We  ourselves  witnessed  an  extraordinary  combat 
one  day.  A  friend,  at  whose  house  we  were  visiting, 
had  a  small  eel  of  the  electric  kind,  which  he  kept  in  a 
tub  of  water  placed  in  the  yard  ;  a  thirsty  duck,  in 
rambling  about  in  search  of  water,  chanced  to  see  this 
vessel,  upon  the  side  of  which  he  immediately  perched 
himself,  and  began  very  inconsiderately  to  imbibe  a  por- 
tion of  its  contents.  In  a  moment  he  received  a  shock 
which  made  all  his  feathers  stand  on  end,  magnifying 
him  to  twice  his  ordinary  size.  But  the  duck  was  more 
valorous  than  one  would  have  supposed,  for  he  returned 
with  such  violence  to  the  attack,  that  he  would  soon 
have  dispatched  his  slippery  enemy,  had  not  a  servant 
interposed  and  prevented  so  tragic  a  termination  of  the 
battle  !  A  couple  of  incidents  as  amusing  as  the  fore- 
going, took  place  on  board  of  our  vessel  while  on  our 
return  voyage  to  the  United  States.  We  will  give  them 
to  the  reader  by  way  of  episode.  Among  our  living 
curiosities  we  had  two  young  electrical  eels,  which  we 
kept  in  a  large  tub  on  deck.  Wishing  one  day  to 
change  the  water,  we  upset  the  tub,  leaving  the  animals 
for  a  few  minutes  on  the  dry  boards.  Having  replenished 
the  vessel  with  fresh  water,  we  requested  one  of  the 


PARA.  217 

sailors  to  put  them  in.  Proceeding  to  do  so,  he  received 
a  strange  thrill,  which  caused  him  to  let  the  fish  fall 
from  his  hand  in  a  moment.  lie  attempted  it  again,  but 
with  no  better  success  than  before.  Infinite  was  the  con- 
sternation of  the  other  sailors,  who  all  tried  in  turn  to 
put  the  diabolical  fish  into  the  tub ;  and  truly  laughable 
their  looks  of  wonderment  occasioned  by  the  mysterious 
sensations  which  they  had  severally  experienced.  No  one, 
however,  was  more  amazed  than  the  captain's  mate. 
Being  himself  wholly  unacquainted  with  the  properties 
of  the  fish,  he  was  unable  to  imagine  any  other  cause 
the  sailors  could  have  for  dropping  them,  than  the  diiS- 
culty  of  holding  such  slimy  and  slippery  things  in  one's 
hand.  Fortified  with  this  opinion,  he  walked  up  boldly 
to  the  largest  one,  which  he  seized  with  a  powerful 
grasp,  in  order  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  escape  on 
the  part  of  the  animal ;  but  he  was  soon  forced  to  let  go 
his  hold,  and  to  yell  out  as  lustily  as  if  some  one  had 
touched  him  with  a  heated  bar  of  iron.  After  much 
laughter  the  captain  finally  procured  a  shovel,  and  we 
returned  them  to  their  native  element  without  any  further 
difficulty. 

On  another  occasion  we  observed  one  of  our  monkeys 
in  the  act  of  drinking  from  the  tub,  but  having  unfortu- 
nately put  his  head  down  a  little  too  far,  his  nose  came 
in  contact  with  the  back  of  one  of  the  fish,  whereupon 
he  was  rewarded  for  his  temerity  by  a  severe  shock, 
which  caused  him  at  the  time  to  beat  a  precipitate 
10 


218  PARA. 

retreat.  But  having  reflected  for  a  few  moments  on  the 
course  most  proper  for  him  to  pursue,  be  seemed  at  last 
to  have  decided  upon  revenge.  Returning  to  the  scene 
of  action,  with  an  expression  of  \iolent  wrath  depicted 
upon  his  interesting  countenance,  he  once  more  mounted 
the  side  of  the  tub,  and  brought  the  eel,  who  had  sub- 
jected him  to  such  deep  mortification,  a  severe  thwack 
upon  the  head  with  his  paw.  He  instantly  received 
another  shock,  but  being  no  philosopher,  he  struck  the 
animal  again  and  again,  each  time  receiving  an  addi- 
tional charge  of  the  electric  fluid,  until  at  last,  being 
pretty  well  used  up,  he  wisely  abandoned  the  siege, 
which,  upon  the  whole,  he  appeared  to  regard  as  a  very 
"  shocking  afiaii-,"  and  retired,  garrulously  giving  vent  to 
his  intense  disgust. 

The  manner  of  capturing  these  fish  in  Guiana  is  thus 
related  by  Baron  Humboldt : — A  pool  having  been  dis- 
covered which  abounds  with  them,  a  number  of  wild 
horses  and  mules  are  surrounded  and  forced  into  it. 
"  The  extraordinary  noise  caused  by  the  horses'  hoofs 
makes  the  fish  issue  from  the  sand,  and  incites  them  to 
combat.  These  yellowish  and  livid  eels,  resembling 
large  aquatic  serpents,  swim  on  the  surface  of  the  water, 
and  crowd  under  the  bellies  of  the  horses  and  mules. 
A  contest  between  animals  of  such  difierent  organiza- 
tions furnishes  a  very  striking  spectacle.  The  Indians, 
provided  with  harpoons  and  long  slender  reeds,  sur- 
round the  pool  closely,  and  some  climb  upon  the  trees, 


219 


the  branches  of  which  extend  horizontally  over  the  sur- 
face of  the  water.  By  their  wild  cries  and  length  of 
their  reeds,  they  prevent  the  horses  from  running  away, 
and  reaching  the  hank  of  the  pool.  The  eels,  stunned 
by  the  noise,  defend  themselves  by  repeated  discharges 
of  their  electric  batteries.  During  a  long  time  they 
seem  to  prove  \'ictorious.  Several  horses  sink  beneath 
the  violence  of  their  invisible  strokes,  which  they  receive 
on  all  sides,  in  organs  the  most  essential  to  life ;  and, 
stunned  by  the  force  and  frequency  of  the  blows,  they 
disappear  under  water.  Others,  panting,  with  mane 
erect  and  haggard  eyes,  expressing  anguish,  rouse  them- 
selves, and  endeavor  to  flee  from  the  storm  by  which 
they  are  overtaken.  They  are  driven  back  by  the 
Indians  into  the  middle  of  the  water ;  but  a  small  num- 
ber succeed  in  eluding  the  active  vigilance  of  the  fisher- 
men. These  regain  the  shore,  stumbling  at  every  step, 
and  stretch  themselves  on  the  sand,  exhausted  by 
fatigue,  and  their  limbs  benumbed  by  the  electric  strokes 
of  the  '  gymnoti.'  " 

Speaking  of  a  scene  which  the  Baron  himself  wit- 
nessed, he  thus  remarks : — "  In  less  than  five  minutes 
two  horses  were  drowned.  The  eel  being  five  feet  long, 
and  pressing  himself  against  the  belly  of  the  horse, 
makes  a  discharge  along  the  whole  length  of  its  electric 
organ.  It  attacks  at  once  the  heart,  the  intestines,  and 
the  plexus  of  abdominal  nerves.  We  had  little  doubt 
the  fishing  would  terminate  by  kilhng  successively  all 


220  PARA. 

the  animals  engaged,  but,  by  degrees,  the  impetuosity  of 
this  unequal  contest  diminished,  and  the  wearied 
gymnoti  dispersed.  They  require  a  long  rest  and  abun- 
dant nourishment  to  repair  what  they  have  lost  of  gal- 
vanic force,  and,  in  a  few  minutes,  we  had  five  large 
eels,  the  greater  part  of  which  were  only  slightly 
wounded." 

Nature  could  not  have  endowed  an  animal  with  a 
more  effectual  weapon  of  defence  than  the  galvanic 
apparatus  with  which  she  has  supplied  these  marvellous 
fish.  Even  the  bloodthirsty  and  heavy  mailed  alligator 
quails  before  it,  and  acknowledges  the  gymnotis  to  be 
the  piscatory  sovereign  of  the  stream.  But  now  let  us 
return  to  finish  the  meal  which  gave  rise  to  this  pro- 
tracted digression  on  eels. 

As  soon  as  we  had  regaled  ourselves  suflSciently, 
smoked  our  pipes,  and  lounged  for  an  hour  or  so  in  our 
hammocks,  we  sallied  out  again  into  the  open  air,  for 
the  laudable  purpose  of  taking  a  cooling  ablution  in  the 
clear  waters  of  the  streamlet. 

The  idea  of  being  struck  dumb  and  senseless  by  elec- 
trical eels  was  uppermost  in  our  minds,  and  very  dread- 
ful it  was  to  be  sure,  but  we  had  determined  upon  hav- 
ing a  swim,  especially  as  our  new  friend  had  promised 
to  take  us  to  a  spot  where  we  should  be  secure  from  any 
molestation  or  inconvenience  whatever. 

Our  guide  led  the  way,  following  along  by  the  side  of 
the  brooklet,  in  the  direction  of  the  sylvan  lake,  which 


PARA.  221 

we  now  saw  sparklinq;  at  a  distance  amid  the  verdure. 
On  our  left  was  an  extensive  clearing,  covered  with  low 
bushes,  and  solitar}"^  trees  looming  up  here  and  there. 
Before,  behind,  and  around  us,  the  dark  woods  rose  up 
like  a  gloomy  wall,  reminding  us  that  we  were  isolated 
and  hid  from  the  world,  in  the  heart  of  a  Brazilian  forest. 

Within  a  few  rods  of  the  lake,  a  slight  dam  was  made 
on  the  bank  of  the  stream,  over  which  at  high  tide  the 
water  flowed  with  a  gurghng  sound,  as  soft  and  cheerful 
as  the  laughter  of  a  j'outhful  maid.  The  water  was  re- 
ceived in  its  descent  by  a  kind  of  rocky  cauldron,  with  a 
smooth,  hard  bottom  of  sand.  The  width  of  this  natural 
basin  w;is  about  eight  or  ten  feet,  while  its  depth  was 
between  four  and  five.  It  was  completely  overhung  by 
an  umbrageous  canopy  of  living  green,  so  dense  that  the 
fierce  rays  of  the  sun  were  entirely  excluded,  although 
the  brilliancy  of  its  light  was  admitted  in  front.  This 
was  the  bathing  place,  of  which  our  new  acquaintance 
had  informed  us,  and  certainly  neither  Venus  nor  any 
other  goddess  could  have  selected  a  sweeter  spot  on  earth, 
for  this  delightful  purpose  ! 

"  What  a  capital  place  for  a  solitary  mermaid,"  said 
J.,  "  the  very  spot  for  such  a  hermitage  !  But  here  goes 
for  a  plunge."  In  a  moment  he  was  immersed  in  the 
crystal  water  of  this  foaming  pool,  and  soon  after  was 
joined  by  his  two  comrades ;  and  now  we  were  all  in  the 
basin  together,  dancing  about  under  the  influence  of  the 
pleasant  excitement,  and  performing  a  variety  of  aquatic 


222  PARA. 

feats.  Coming  out  at  the  expiration  of  half  an  hour,  we 
experienced  the  most  dehcious  of  all  human  sensations, 
such  as  theij  only  can  appreciate,  who  have  bathed  in  the 
exhilarating  waters  of  a  mineral  spring,  and  then  exposed 
themselves  unclad  to  the  vivifying  influences  of  the  warm 
sunshine. 

On  our  return  to  the  mills,  we  stopped  for  a  moment 
at  one  of  the  habitations  of  the  natives.  Here  we  saw  a 
strange  tableau.  In  one  corner  of  the  hut  were  a  couple 
of  negro  women,  seated  on  the  ground  engaged  in  basket- 
making  ;  while  a  boy  was  cutting  long  strips  from  a 
species  of  cane  used  for  this  purpose.  Various  kinds  of 
birds  and  skins  of  animals  were  hung  around  the  cabin, 
together  with  ragged  clothing,  and  bunches  of  fruit.  One 
spectacle,  however,  which  served  to  comj^lete  the  picture, 
would  doubtless  have  occasioned  an  ejaculation  of  horror, 
had  it  been  witnessed  by  the  unaccustomed  eyes  of  our 
indulgent  reader.  It  was  that  of  an  aged  native,  with 
whitened  locks  streaming  down  on  his  shoulders,  delibe- 
rately tearing  to  pieces,  for  the  convenience  of  mastication, 
the  body,  of  a  recently-roasted  Guariba,  or  howling 
monkey.  J.  inquired  of  him  respecting  the  flavor  of  the 
animal,  which  the  old  cannibal  declared  to  be  equal  to 
that  of  beef  or  any  other  meat.  "  Mon  Dieu  /"  ex- 
claimed my  companion,  "  from  what  enjoyments  do  our 
prejudices  preclude  us  !" 


223 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

Excursion  down  the  Stream. — "  Cocoanut  Grove." — A  Sloth. — 
The  great  and  little  Aut-Eater. — A  Bath  and  Siesta. 

On  the  following  day  we  procured  a  small  montaria, 
and  made  an  excursion  down  the  streamlet.  The 
brook-sceuery  was  rich  and  luxuriant,  and  was  for  a  dis- 
tance completely  embowered  by  overhanging  shrubbery. 
The  stream  was  filled  with  small  rocks  and  sand-bars, 
which  were  distinctly  revealed  by  the  receding  tide. 
Consequently  we  were  obliged  to  be  continually  on  the 
alert,  in  order  to  avoid  being  snagged  or  capsized ! 
The  banks  in  some  parts  were  quite  high,  and  clothed 
with  a  gigantic  vegetation,  while  occasionally  their  beau- 
tiful monotony  was  pleasingly  relieved  by  the  glistening 
of  a  silvery  cascade  or  miniature  waterfall ! 

Paddling  round  a  certain  point,  a  scene  of  exquisite 
beauty  burst  instantaneously  upon  our  view !  For  the 
distance  of  several  hundred  yards  the  stream  was  ex- 
ceedingly wide,  and  as  straight  as  an  arrow.  The  left 
bank  was  covered  by  a  thicket  of  low  clu-^tering  bushes, 
while  the  land  on  the  opposite  side  was  unusually  high, 
and  overtopped  by  a  handsome  grove  of  cocoanuts  and 
ornamental  palms. 


224  r  A  u  A  . 

Among  the  trees  of  the  grove  we  discovered  two  or 
three  Indian  cottages  and  n  numbej-  of  natives  swinging 
in  their  hammocks,  which  were  suspended  from  the 
branches.  There  was  something  so  fascinating  about 
this  picturesque  spot,  that  we  resolved  to  halt  and 
recruit  ourselves  for  a  few  moments.  Fastening  our 
boat  firmly  to  an  orange  tree  on  the  bank,  we  took  our 
guns  in  our  hands  and  ascended  the  rude  steps  which  led 
to  one  of  the  habitations  of  the  natives.  Here  we  found 
a  number  of  Indians,  who,  althougli  a  little  surprised  at 
our  sudden  visit  and  strange  appearance,  nevertheless 
treated  us  in  the  most  hospitable  manner.  They  had 
just  returned  from  a  hunt  in  the  forest,  and  had  brought 
with  them  a  peculiar  species  of  sloth,  which  seemed  to 
have  been  lately  shot.  We  had  seen  animals  of  this 
kind  before,  but  the  enormous  size  of  the  one  in  ques- 
tion did  not  fail  to  attract  our  notice.  The  natives  were 
about  preparing  it  for  eating,  and  assured  us  that  its 
flesh  was  excellent. 

This  animal  is  inconceivably  slow  in  its  motion, 
inasmuch  as  it  will  often  consume  an  entire  day  in 
climbing  up  a  tree,  or  in  crawling  fifty  paces  on  the 
ground.  Its  size,  when  full  grown,  is  nearly  equal  to 
that  of  a  fox,  and  its  body  is  covered  with  long,  uneven 
hair,  of  a  dusky  white,  spotted  with  black.  •  Its  claws 
are  large  and  powerful,  so  much  so  that  it  is  frequently 
found  sleeping  and  hanging  from  the  limb  of  a  tree, 
around  which  its   legs   are   tightly  clasped.     The  sloth 


r  A  u  A  .  225 

lives  entirely  ou  fruit  and  leaves,  and  never  moves 
except  when  impelled  by  hunger  or  thirst.  While  in 
motion  it  utters  a  low  and  plaintive  sound,  and  is  so 
very  repulsive  and  pitiable  in  its  general  aspect,  that  it 
is  seldom,  if  ever,  attacked  or  molested  by  beasts  of 
prey. 

Leaving  "  cocoanut  grove,"  and  pursuing  our  solitary 
way,  while  not  a  ripple  agitated  the  surface  of  the 
stream,  we  finally  entered  an  inviting  cove,  which  opened 
to  our  right.  Here  we  perceived  a  very  respectable 
mansion,  situated  on  an  elevated  and  shady  mound, 
which  we  soon  discovered  to  be  the  residence  of  an  old 
and  highly  esteemed  Taponian,  bearing  the  name  of 
Senhor  Ramundo. 

Walking  up  the  bank,  we  saluted  the  proprietor,  and 
requested  permission  to  examine  the  beauties  and  curio- 
sities of  the  place,  which  was  readily  granted  us.  The 
grounds  connected  with  the  estate  were  very  extensive, 
and  well  supplied  with  fruit  trees  and  curious  plants  of 
many  kinds.  Among  the  former  we  observed  an  enor- 
mous cactus  tree,  at  least  twenty  feet  in  height,  embel- 
lished with  large  and  splendid  flowers ;  rising  on  a  single 
shaft  for  a  few^  feet  above  the  ground,  it  then  separated 
into  many  prodigious  shoots,  each  of  which  was  at  least 
eight  inches  in  diameter,  forming  a  spectacle  which  was 
wonderful  as  well  as  beautiful. 

Besides   an  abundance   of  banana  plants,  we  saw  a 
number  of  pine-apple  shrubs,  thriving  in  the  greatest 
10* 


226  PARA. 

luxuriance.  Perceiving  that  we  were  pleased  witli  the 
appearance  of  this  dehcious  fruit,  our  hospitable  friend 
picked  off  a  fine  one  and  served  it  up  at  the  house  for 
our  exclusive  benefit.  In  this  generous  climate  the  pine- 
apple sometimes  grows  to  an  enormous  size,  and  is  of  a 
much  superior  flavor  to  those  usually  brought  to  our 
country  from  the  West  Indies.  They  require  considera- 
ble cultivation  and  a  fertile  soil,  but  in  Brazil  are  not 
unfrequently  found  growing  in  the  open  forest ! 

Having  made  a  circuit  of  the  garden,  we  returned  to 
the  house,  where  we  regaled  ourselves  on  the  fruit  we  had 
brought  with  us.  The  house  was  quite  commodious  and 
in  most  excellent  order,  for  which  old  Ramundo  was 
indebted  to  the  assiduous  care  of  his  ten  beautiful 
daughters.  These  filial  maidens  constituted  a  bouquet  of 
flowers,  of  which  Flora  herself  might  well  have  been 
proud  !  They  were  exceedingly  pretty,  with  long  dark 
hair  and  jet-black  eyes. 

The  tide  having  changed,  we  took  advantage  of  it  to 
return  to  "the  mills."  Passing  a  certain  thicket  we 
heard  a  peculiar  noise  in  the  bushes,  and  soon  after  saw 
some  kind  of  animal  emerge  from  the  bushes  and  run 
with  great  velocity  along  the  bank.  We  kept  our  eyes 
intently  fixed  upon  him  until  he  disappeared  from  view, 
and  then  guided  our  little  boat  to  the  exact  spot  where 
we  had  last  seen  him.  My  companion  jumped  quickly 
ashore  and  removing  the  foliage  aside  with  his  gun,  he 
suddenly  started  up  the  animal,  who  rushed  so  unexpect- 


837 


edly  almost  from  under  bis  very  feet,  that  he  did  not 
have  time  to  raise  his  gun  to  his  shoulder  and  fire.  We 
caught  a  glimpse  of  the  creature,  however,  which  we 
discovered  to  be  a  species  of  wild  hog. 

Not  long  after  leaving  this  place,  we  had  the  good 
fortune  to  shoot  a  fine  specimen  of  the  ant-eater.  This 
is  certainly  the  most  remarkable  of  all  South  A.raerican 
quadrupeds.  There  are  two  species  of  this  genus  found 
in  the  forests  of  Brazil,  which  are  called,  in  distinction, 
the  great  and  little  ant-eater.  The  former  is  a  very  large 
animal,  sometimes  measuring  seven  feet  in  length,  from 
the  tip  of  its  nose  to  the  extremity  of  its  tail.  Its  ap- 
pearance to  every  one  but  a  naturalist  is  truly  repulsive 
and  disagreeable.  Its  head  is  very  small  and  its  snout 
exceedingly  long,  while  its  mouth  is  extremely  diminu- 
tive and  entirely  destitute  of  teeth.  The  general  color  of 
the  animal  is  grey,  with  a  broad  stripe  of  black  running 
down  on  each  side  of  its  body.  The  hair  with  which  it 
is  covered  is  quite  harsh,  and  that  of  the  tail  very  long 
and  bushy.  Although  not  provided  by  nature  with 
teeth,  yet  the  powerful  claws  of  the  ant-eater  render  it  a 
very  formidable  adversary,  since  with  them  it  has  been 
known  to  destroy  animals  of  much  greater  apparent 
strength  than  itself.  It  walks  very  slowly  in  the  woods, 
but  is  said  to  be  a  rapid  swimmer,  and  in  the  water  it 
moves  quickly  along,  with  its  prodigious  tail  flung 
directly  over  its  back  ! 

The  httle  ant-eater,  on  the  contrary,  is  a  very  diminu- 


228 


live  and  extreni"ly  graceful  little  animal,  its  body  being 
seldom  more  than  seven  inches  long,  while  its  tail  is 
bushy,  like  that  of  a  squirrel,  and  generally  longer 
than  its  body.  The  tip  of  its  tail  is  usually  bare  for 
about  the  space  of  two  or  three  inches,  and  is  prehensile. 
This  little  creature  sports  among  the  branches  of  the 
trees,  and  is  very  agile  and  nimble  in  his  motions.  The 
fur  with  which  he  is  covered  is  of  a  pure  yellow,  and  is 
exquisitely  soft  and  glossy.  Indeed,  the  general  appear- 
ance of  this  curious  little  fellow  is  exceedingly  prepossess- 
ing and  pleasing. 

The  tongue  of  the  ant-eater  is  very  long,  and  is  covered 
■with  a  peculiar  glutinous  substance,  of  which  the  ants 
are  particularly  fond.  They  assemble  on  it  in  myriads, 
and  while  enjoying  the  sweetness  of  the  feast,  the  tongue 
of  the  animal  is  suddenly  drawn  within  its  mouth,  and 
the  unfortunate  insects  immediately  precipitated  into  the 
dark  and  mysterious  abyss  below  ! 

Soon  after  killing  the  ant-eater  we  arrived  safely  at  the 
mills.  The  afternoon  was  uncomfortably  warm.  As 
soon,  therefore,  as  we  had  disencumbered  ourselves  of 
our  sporting  accoutrements,  we  repaired  again  to  the 
"  Bath  of  the  Muses,"  and  indulged  in  a  cool  and  re- 
freshing ablution.  Returning  from  the  bath,  we  com- 
mitted ourselves  to  our  hammocks,  which  were  swinging 
in  the  breeze  under  the  veranda.  Soft  languors  stole 
insensibly  over  us,  and  visions  of  dreamy  happiness  arose 
in   our  minds !     No  one  can  realize  the  pleasures  of  a 


229 


haramock  "siesta,"  who  has  not  wandered  amid  the 
enchanting  scenes  of  the  Torrid  Zone  ! — Here  "  every- 
thing invites  to  that  indolent  repose,  the  bhss  of  southern 
climes ;  and  while  the  half-shut  eye  looks  out  from 
shaded  balconies  upon  the  glittering  landscape,  the  ear  is 
lulli.'J  by  tho  rustling  of  groves,  and  the  murmur  of  run- 
nins:  streams." 


230  PARA, 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

Trip  to  L'Aranjoira. — A  Sunset  Scene. — Evening  Festival  in  an 
Orange  Grove. — A  provoking  Incident. 

Hours  and  days  rolled  rapidly  on,  and  still  we  delighted 
to  hear  the  rumbling  of  the  old  mills,  and  to  ramble  amid 
the  umbrageous  solitudes  of  the  neighboring  forest. 
Each  moment  almost,  as  it  imperceptibly  glided  avvay, 
brought  with  it  some  fresh  sources  of  novelty  and  enter- 
tainment. Late  one  afternoon  we  left  Maguary  in  our 
canoe,  intending  to  pass  the  night  at  the  sequestered 
hamlet  of  L'Aranjeira,  which  is  situated  a  few  miles  from 
the  mills  on  one  of  the  sloping  banks  of  the  streamlet. 
We  were  gliding  slowly  past  the  grove  of  cocoa  palms, 
when  the  flush  of  sunset  overspread  the  western  sky, 
and  shed  a  luminous  glow  upon  the  surface  of  the 
stream.  The  leaves  of  the  brookside  trees  were  tinged 
with  golden  hues,  and  the  dark  masses  of  emerald 
foliage  seemed  to  be  illumed  as  with  a  smile !  It  was  a 
gorgeous  scene,  and  one  which  penetrated  deep  into  our 
souls.  The  air  was  loaded  with  delicious  aromas — the 
noisy  chattering  of  the  birds  was  over,  and  the  soft 
and  melancholy  notes  of  trogons  and  nightingales,  alone 


281 


stole  upou  our  ears.  Insects  chirped  in  the  tangled 
thickets,  and  beetles  occasionally  flew  with  a  strange 
humming  sound  through  the  quiet  atmosphere — the 
stars  beamed  forth  from  the  clear  firmament,  and  our 
eyes  looked  with  mute  adoration  upon  millions  of  worlds, 
studding  the  etherial  ocean  of  immensity  ! 

"  Oh,"  said  J.,  "who  can  gaze  upon  the  illimitable 
heavens  above  him,  and  contemplate  the  inconceivable 
vastness  of  the  universe,  without  feeling  within  him  the 
consciousness  of  immortality  ?  Who  is  there  so  grovelling 
and  debased,  that  he  can  gaze  upon  the  grandeur  of  the 
stellar  worlds,  wheeling  in  their  established  orbits  at 
unfathomable  distances  over  his  head,  witliout  experienc- 
ing emotions  of  grandeur  and  sublimity  ?  Oh,  God  ! 
that  a  human  being  in  thy  divine  form,  could  ever  have 
gazed  upon  the  overwhelming  proofs  of  Deity  which  I 
now  behold,  and  continued  a  sceptic  still.  Is  it  not 
a  mystery  that  so  foul  a  blot  should  be  permitted  to  rest 
upon  the  footstool  of  Jehovah  ? — that  a  fiend  in  human 
shape  should  be  allowed  to  live,  and  cast  his  shadow, 
like  that  of  a  dark  pillar,  upon  the  beauty  and  happiness 
of  the  world  ?  "Why  is  he  not  riven  by  a  thunderbolt,  or 
bhghted  by  the  lightning  ?" 

"  It  is  not  often,  J.,  that  you  are  in  so  serious  a  mood ! 
Is  it  not  a  grand  idea  ? — and  often  have  I  felt  it  in  look- 
ing upon  the  star-studded  firmament ;  that  all  the  innu- 
merable worlds  upon  which  we  gaze  are  inhabited — that 
they  are  the  different  homes  of  the   immortal   spirit, 


232  PARA. 

which  wings  its  flight  from  planet  to  planet,  by  the  mys- 
terious power  of  volition  alone,  and  goes  on  through 
unending  ages,  for  ever  approaching  nearer  and  nearer 
to  the  true  source  of  all  things — the  pure  fountain  of  the 
Great  Eternal  mind !" 

We  had  now  turned  the  last  headland,  and  were 
in  full  view  of  L'Aranjeira.  Its  appearance,  thus  seen  by 
the  sweet  influence  of  the  starlight,  was  deeply  interest- 
ing— the  bank,  which  here  made  a  sudden  turn,  so  as  to 
present  the  hamlet  directly  in  our  front,  was  unusually 
high.  Upon  its  summit  stood  the  cottages  of  the  natives, 
each  one  surrounded  by  a  number  of  flourishing  orange 
trees.  The  plot  of  cleared  ground  which  had  been  thus 
appropriated  by  the  Indian  habitations,  sloped  gradually 
back  towards  the  dark  forest,  which  by  the  light  of  the  stars 
seemed  to  sweep  round  it  in  a  perfect  semicircle.  The 
stream  had  been  swollen  to  the  width  of  a  small  river, 
and  the  light  pulsations  of  its  waters  upon  the  sandy 
beach,  came  with  a  musical  dashing  to  our  ears.  Upon 
its  rippling  surface  the  moonbeams  were  dancing  a  mi- 
nuet, while  thousands  of  reflected  stars  gleamed  as  itwere 
in  an  enchanted  region  far  down  below  us  ! 

To  our  astonishment  the  entire  grove  appeared  to  be 
specially  illuminated,  as  if  for  the  purpose  of  celebrating 
some  distinguished  festal  day. 

Drawing  our  boat  up  on  the  shore,  we  ascended  the 
steps  which  led  to  the  cottages.  The  "  Commandante," 
it  seems,  was  expecting  us,  and  had  therefore  remained 


P  A  K  A .  283 

alone  at  his  house,  awaiting  our  arrival.  The  first 
queries  we  put  to  him,  as  soon  as  our  mutual  greetings 
were  concluded,  were  concerning  the  grand  display  of 
lights,  and  natives,  and  music,  which  we  behold  in  the 
grove.  lie  informed  us  that  it  was  festal  iiiifht,  and 
that  the  natives  were  having  a  rustic  ball  in  honor 
thereof;  he  moreover  invited  us  to  take  part  in  the  cere- 
monies, poHtely  offering  himself  as  our  escort,  and  adding 
also,  by  way  of  inducement,  that  he  would  take  particu- 
lar care  to  initiate  us  into  the  good  graces  of  all  the 
handsome  Dryads  of  the  grove.  This  was  too  strong  a 
temptation  for  our  feeble  powers  of  denial,  therefore  we 
at  once  consented  to  Senhor  Front's  kind  proposal. 

It  may  not  be  improper  to  say  a  word  respecting  the 
appearance,  character,  and  position  of  the  old  "  com- 
mandant." His  age  could  not  have  been  less  than  sixty 
years,  for  the  front  part  of  his  head  was  entirely  bald, 
while  the  curling  locks  which  hung  down  over  his 
shoulders  were  of  silvery  whiteness;  his  eye  was  sharp 
and  penetrating — his  features  small — his  lips  com- 
pressed, and  his  complexion  light — all  betokening  a 
cunning  disposition  and  a  suspicious  turn  of  mind.  In 
convei-sation  he  was  exceedingly  loquacious  !  He  had 
been  stationed  at  L'Aranjeira  by  the  Para  government  as 
a  kind  of  spy,  to  prevent  the  smuggling  of  foreign  goods 
into  the  city  by  means  of  this  stream.  His  whole 
armament  consisted  of  half  a  dozen  rusty  guns,  which, 


234 


judging  from  tlieir  looks,  would  be  more  apt  to  injure 
those  who  used  them  thcan  those  at  whom  they  were 
discharged. 

"  I  think  it  would  be  impossible  for  the  most  imagina- 
tive poet  to  conceive  a  more  romantic  spectacle  on  earth 
than  .hat  which  we  now  behold !"  said  J.,  as  soon  as  we 
bad  passed  the  borders  of  the  illuminated  grove.  The 
trees  were  nearly  of  the  same  height,  clothed  with  their 
rich  foliage  of  vivid  green,  and  bending  to  the  ground 
with  their  heavy  clusters  of  yellow  fruit.  Each  tree  was 
furnished  with  lighted  flambeaux,  while  many  of  the 
natives  carried  flaming  torches  in  their  hands.  Gloomily 
the  luxuriant  forest  stood  around  like  the  darksome  pall 
— brio-htly  shone  the  tranquil  surface  of  the  broad  and 
flowing  stream  before  us — and  here,  in  the  midst  of  a 
group  of  strange  men  of  swarthy  aspect,  Indian  maids 
of  exquisite  beauty,  and  tall  shadows  of  grotesque  forms 
— we  stood  in  this  lovely  solitude  of  the  wilderness, 
drinking  in  strange  sensations  of  delight,  and  feeling  in 
our  souls,  that  were  it  not  for  the  baneful  influence  of 
sin,  this  world  would  be  a  paradise  of  joy  ! 

"  What  a  very  pretty  damsel  is  she  that  stands  so 
pensively  by  yonder  banana  plant,"  said  J.  "  See  how 
quiet  she  is ;  her  head  droops  as  if  some  thought 
Avas  pressing  upon  her  virgin  mind  !  And  look  how  she 
glances  her  eyes  occasionally  at  old  Prout,  as  if  she 
took  some  peculiar  interest  in  his  movements.     I  should 


PARA.  235 

not  be  surprised  if  she  turns  out  to  be  his  daughter ;  if 
so,  I  sliall  have  a  story  to  tell  by  and  by  of  my  pleasant 
flirtation  with  the  bewitching  belle  of  L'Aranjeira." 

"  She  may  be  '  old  Prout's  '  daughter  for  all  we  know 
to  the  contrary,"  I  replied ;  "  but  I  do  not  think  she  is. 
I  am  aware  that  the  '  Commandant '  has  daughters,  but 
they  are,  I  think,  all  married  ;  at  all  events,  I  do  not 
believe  he  has  a  daughter  as  young  as  this  maid  by  at 
least  ten  years.  She  does  not  appear  to  be  above  fifteen, 
yet  how  perfectly  is  she  developed — how  symmetrical 
is  the  graceful  curve  of  her  neck,  and  what  a  profusion 
of  raven  tresses  hang  elf-like  from  her  head.  It  is  not, 
as  you  modestly  imagine,  at  old  Prout  that  she  glances, 
but  you  may  rest  assured  that  it  is  at  no  other  than 
yourself.  She  has  seen  you,  and  is  consequently  smitten, 
and  this  is  doubtless  the  secret  of  her  strange  behavior. 
It  strikes  me  as  something  very  strange  that  the  prettiest 
girl  by  far  in  the  grove  should  be  so  neglected  by  the 
beaux.  There  is  some  mystery  about  it,  which,  I  must 
confess,  I  cannot  understand.  Go  you  up  to  her 
straightway,  and  be  her  entertainer.  If  any  dependence 
can  be  placed  on  her  looks  and  actions,  such  a  move- 
ment on  your  part,  methinks,  will  be  highly  satisfactory 
to  the  damsel." 

"  Well !"  replied  J.,  "  I  believe  I  will  for  once  take 
your  advice ;  but  remember  you  must  be  responsible  for 
the  consequences." 

My  companion  then  left  me,  and  walked  up  boldly  to 


236  P  A  K  A  . 

the  pretty  maiden,  who  had  scarcely  changed  her  posi- 
tion since  first  we  discovered  her.  Shortly  after  I 
beheld  him  dancing  with  her  on  the  green,  and  appa- 
rently as  happy  as  any  fond  lover  who  had  secured  his 
prize !  She  still,  however,  continued  her  glances  at 
"  Old  Prout,"  whose  countenance,  to  my  infinite  amaze- 
ment, was  now  clouded  as  if  with  some  inward  dissatis- 
faction, misanthropy,  or  hypochondriacal  forebodings  ;  his 
physiognomy  was  a  complicated  puzzle,  and  I  could  not 
possibly  opine  the  occasion  of  his  evident  uneasi- 
ness ! 

It  was  past  one  o'clock  in  the  morning  when  the  festi- 
vities were  brought  to  a  close.  Imagine  our  surprise, 
dear  reader,  when,  on  starting  for  the  house  of  the 
"  Corainandant,"  we  were  joined  by  the  innocent  and 
bright-faced  girl  to  whom  my  companion  had  during 
the  evening  been  so  particularly  attentive !  What 
could  it  mean  ?  Was  she,  then,  truly  the  daughter  of 
■  our  venerable  host  ?  Oh  !  happy  thought !  Oh  !  envia- 
ble young  men  ! 

"  Is  this  your  youngest  daughter !"  whispered  J., 
in  the  politest  manner  imaginable  to  the  aged 
Senhor.  "  She  is  remarkably  handsome  ;  in  fact,  we 
have  few  prettier  girls  than  she  in  America !  I  consider 
her  very  fortunate  in  having  so  amiable  and  affectionate 
a  father  /" 

"Father!"  echoed  he,  in  tones  none  of  the  softest — 
"  I  am  her  husband  ;  she  is  my  ivife  !     But  I  freely 


r  A  K  A  . 


231 


forgive  you  for  your  mistake,  as  I  liave  daugliters,  to  tell 
the  truth,  almost  old  enough  to  be  her  mother !" 

J.  became  now  speechless,  listless,  and  tongue-tied, 
and  continued  so  for  some  time  after  this  fatal  explana- 
tion. As  for  myself,  I  felt  half  disposed — and  even 
hinted  the  propriety  of  the  measure  to  my  disappointed 
comrade — of  seizing  the  old  Turk  by  the  neck  and 
pitching  him  headforemost  over  the  bank  into  the  placid 
waters  of  the  stream  ! 

When  we  reached  the  house,  Senhor  "  Prout"  mani- 
fested an  extraordinary  degree  of  prudence  in  swinging 
our  hammocks  under  the  veranda,  at  the  same  time 
very  coolly  giving  us  a  lecture  on  the  advantages  of 
sleeping  in  the  open  air !  Ilis  youthful  wife  kissed  her 
hand  to  us  as  she  bade  us  good  night,  and  disappeared 
from  our  view  with  a  roguish  smile  upon  her  pouting  lips. 
"  Old  Prout"  supplied  us  with  pipes,  and  conversed  with 
us  very  sociably  for  upwards  of  an  hour.  He  then  wished 
us  a  pleasant  sleep,  and  vanished,  within  the  interior  of 
his  dwelhng. 

In  a  few  moments  we  were  no  longer  conscious  of  the 
realities  of  existence — -for  we  slept ! — and  our  slumbers 
were  as  calm  and  sweet  as  those  of  childhood. 


238  PARA. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

A  Humming  Bird  Crusade  in  the  Inga  Grove. — Different 
methods  of  securing  these  Birds. — Certain  facts  regarding 
them. — A  Ramble  in  the  Woods. — Canoe  Making. — An 
Opossum. — J.  and  myself  for  once  of  different  minds. 

At  six  o'clock  we  were  awakened  by  the  "  Command- 
ant," who  said  that  we  must  rise  immediately  (although 
we  had  not  slept  more  than  three  hours)  if  we  had  any 
desire  to  shoot  any  humming  birds  that  morning. 
Springing  from  our  hammocks,  we  lost  not  a  moment  in 
equipping  ourselves  for  this  enterprise.  Leaving  the 
house  in  company  with  "  Old  Prout,"  we  were  soon  in 
the  midst  of  the  grove,  breathing  an  atmosphere  preg- 
nant with  the  fragrance  of  the  Inga  blossoms.  The 
trees  were  literally  alive  with  the  tiny  birds,  whose 
rapid  flight  through  the  sunlit  air  could  only  be  likened 
to  the  glistening  of  precious  gems  or  burnished  metals. 
Sometimes  we  would  see  one  perched  upon  a  dry  twig, 
and  at  other  times  poised  in  the  air  over  our  heads,  and 
apparently  motionless,  while  all  the  time  his  little  wings 
were  vibrating  with  the  greatest  velocity. 

Several  modes  are  adopted  for  killing  these  curious 
birdlets.    The  natives  of  Brazil  shoot  them  with  small 


239 


arrows,  thrown  from  a  species  of  blow-pipe  by  the  power 
of  their  breath  only.  Some  naturalists,  for  fear  of  injur- 
ing their  extremely  delicate  plumage,  throw  water  upon 
them  by  means  of  syringes,  which  clogs  their  wings, 
and  thus  incapacitates  them  for  flight. 

In  the  wonderful  choir  of  animated  nature  birds  seem 
to  rank  next  above  insects,  and  some  of  the  latter  which 
are  furnished  with  wings,  bear  considerable  resemblance 
to  the  minimum  of  the  former.  Any  one,  who  gives 
due  attention  to  the  consideration  of  the  myriads  of  ani- 
mals and  life-teeming  atoms  which  sm-round  us — which 
crowd  the  purest  water  we  drink  and  the  lightest  air  we 
breathe,  cannot  fail  to  observe  a  gradual  chain  of  mental 
development,  from  the  first  buddings  of  mysterious  in- 
stinct up  to  the  greatest  capacity  and  genius  of  man.  A 
chain  equivalent  to  this  exists  also  in  the  material  world, 
in  the  creation  of  animated  beings.  The  humming  bird 
may  appropriately  be  considered  as  the  connecting  link 
between  the  bird  and  insect  race.  How  pleasing  to  the 
eye  of  a  poet  is  the  analogy  between  this  smallest  of  birds 
and  the  butterfly  I  In  size  the  latter  is  often  superior,  and 
in  coloring  as  rich  and  striking.  They  both  frequent 
flowery  gardens,  and  are  sometimes  seen  at  the  same 
time  sipping  honey  from  the  bosom  of  some  ripe  and 
blushing  rose ! 

The  beauty  of  the  humming  bird  has  been  imiversally 
extolled,  and  well  does  it  deserve  all  the  praise  that  has 
been  boimtifuUy  lavished  upon  it.     On  account  of  the 


240  PARA. 

brilliant  lustre  of  its  plumage,  it  has  been  expressively 
designated  by  the  titles  of  emerald,  ruby,  amethystine, 
and  topaz,  according  to  the  several  species.  The  natives 
of  some  of  the  islands  where  they  abound,  metaphorically 
style  them  "  winged-flowers,"  while  in  Brazil  the  Portu- 
guese name  which  is  bestowed  upon  them,  signifies, 
"  flower-kissers !" 

Delicate  as  these  little  creatures  are,  they  are  not  con- 
fined entirely  to  the  Tropics,  but  are  occasionally  seen  in 
hio-h  latitudes,  and  have  been  observed  flitting  about  even 
in  the  midst  of  a  snow  storm,  apparently  at  their  ease. 
Their  home,  however,  is  in  the  warmer  parts  of  America, 
wbere  they  sport  in  wanton  mazes  during  the  live-long 
day,  fulfilling  the  particular  end  for  which  the  wisdom  of 
nature  has  designed  them. 

Innocent  and  harmless  as  the  humming  birds  appear, 
yet  they  are  frequently  agitated  by  the  fiercest  passions. 
They  not  only  assail  birds  of  a  larger  size,  but  if  dis- 
turbed during  the  period  of  incubation,  will  even  venture 
to  attack  man  himself,  darting  at  his  eyes  with  such 
violence  as  to  threaten  their  extinction.  When  the 
males  battle  with  each  other,  which  is  often  the  case,  the 
combat  is  seldom  relinquished  until  one  of  the  belligerents 
is  completely  discomfited,  or  killed.  Wilson  says  he  has 
seen  the  small  American  humming  bird  attack  even  the 
king-bird,  which  is  so  distinguished  for  its  valor,  and  in  its 
turn  assaulted  by  a  humble  bee,  which  after  a  few  moments 
of  hard  fighting,  he  succeeded  in  putting  to  flight. 


241 


It  has  been  estimated  that  the  whole  number  of 
species  comprised  under  the  o;enus  Trochilus,  cannot  be 
much  less  than  two  hundred.  The  two  most  remarkable 
of  the  genus  wliich  we  ourselves  procured  in  Brazil,  were 
commonly  called  the  "  magnificent "  and  the  "  whiskered  " 
humming  birds.  The  former  was  of  an  unusually  large 
size,  being  nearly  seven  inches  in  length,  including  its  two 
longest  tail  feathers,  which  were  upwards  of  four  inches 
in  length.  These  were  finely  plumed,  and  very  singularly 
crossed  each  other  near  their  tips.  The  breast  of  this 
bird  was  of  a  splendid  topazine,  while  the  lower  parts  of 
its  body  were  of  a  rich  and  glowing  ruby.  Its  back  was 
of  a  rufous  brown,  with  metallic  reflections. 

The  "  whiskered  hummer  "  was  truly  a  comical  look- 
ing bird — a  winged  harlequin  among  his  race  !  This 
singular  species  is  one  of  the  most  diminutive  of  the 
genus,  and  is  remarkable  for  having  six  white  feathers  on 
each  side  of  its  head,  which  it  has  the  power  of  erecting 
or  depressing  at  pleasure.  These  feathers  seem  designed 
as  a  kind  of  parachute,  to  enable  the  bird  to  put  an 
instantaneous  and  effectual  check  upon  the  extraordinary 
rapidity  of  its  flight,  when  in  the  pursuit  of  its  insect 
prey ! 

The  birds  of  this  genus  differ  very  materially  in  their 
habits.  Some  are  extremely  solitary,  wandering  alone 
through  the  unfrequented  recesses  of  the  forest,  and 
seldom  venturing  into  open  places,  or  near  the  abodes  of 
men.  Others,  on  the  contrary,  hve  in  the  vicfbity  of 
11 


242  PARA. 

populous  towns,  and  visit  without  apprehension  the  most 
public  gardens,  while  some  haunt  the  embowered  streams, 
and  feed  upon  the  different  aquatic  insects  which  skim 
their  glassy  surfaces. 

Having  killed  at  least  thirty-five  hummers,  we  return- 
ed to  the  house.  Senhora  Prout  received  us  under  the 
veranda  with  a  smile — made  a  few  inquiries  of  us  con- 
cerning the  result  of  our  morning's  crusade — and  then 
put  before  us  a  delicious  repast  of  mingow  and  coffee. 

Our  pipes  being  smoked  out,  we  took  a  short  ramble 
in  the  woods.  The  pathway  was  narrow,  and  ran  along 
by  the  side  of  a  bubbling  brook,  at  last  terminating  in  an 
open  area  or  clearing,  where  we  perceived  a  couple  of 
Indians  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  a  montaria  or 
canoe.  They  had  hollowed  out  a  large  log  by  means  of 
fire,  and  were  now  scraping  away  the  crisped  and  black- 
ened wood  with  their  rude  instruments.  Halting  here  for 
a  moment,  the  "  commandante  "  explained  to  our  entire 
satisfaction  the  whole  "  modus  operandi "  of  canoe 
making,  from  the  "  Alpha "  to  the  "  Omega "  of  the 
process. 

Resuming  our  walk,  we  shortly  met  with  a  native  who 
had  a  species  of  opossum  in  one  of  his  hands,  which  he 
said  he  had  just  shot  in  the  forest.  There  are  many 
varieties  of  opossums,  peculiar  to  the  woods  of  Brazil. 
They  are  very  curious  animals  both  in  their  appearance 
and  habits.  A  quaint  writer  has  remarked  concerning 
them,  that  as  a  general  rule  they  have  "  the  snout  of  a 


243 


pike,  the  ears  of  a  bat,  and  the  tail  of  a  snake."  Their 
hair  is  coarse,  and  bears  some  resemblance  to  whalebone, 
when  it  is  shaved  into  fine  and  riband-like  curls.  Their 
tails  are  prehensile,  and  of  use  to  the  animal  in  suspend- 
ing itself  from  the  branches  of  trees,  while  their  legs  are 
comparatively  short  and  covered  with  long  hair.  While 
amid  the  foliage  of  trees  they  are  both  sportive  and  nim- 
ble, and  are  often  seen  playfully  chasing  each  other  from 
limb  to  limb,  with  all  the  quickness  and  agility  of  squir- 
rels. But,  on  the  ground,  their  motions  are  remarkably 
slow  and  laborious.  In  their  habits  they  are  nocturnal, 
but  are  occasionally  seen  frolicking  with  each  other  in 
shady  and  secluded  places  during  the  day.  Their  food 
consists,  for  the  most  part,  of  small  birds,  lizards,  and 
various  reptiles.  At  times,  however,  they  repair  to  the 
neighboring  streams,  for  the  purpose  of  catching  fish  and 
snails,  which  they  like  to  procure  occasionally  by  way  of 
a  dietetical  change  ! 

The  female  opossum  is  furnished  with  a  pouch  like 
that  of  the  kangaroo,  in  which  she  nourishes  her  young 
until  they  are  able  to  take  care  of  themselves.  These  are 
generally  firom  eight  to  twelve  in  number  ;  and  it  is  not 
a  very  unusual  spectacle,  in  their  native  woods,  to  see  the 
mother  \jalking  about  in  search  of  food,  with  her  whole 
family  safely  mounted  upon  her  back. 

In  the  afternoon  I  concluded  to  undertake  a  short  trip 
of  exploration  in  our  canoe, — but  I  could  not  pursuade  J. 
to  acconoipany  me  I  Whether  he  was  unwilling  to  expose 


244 


himself  to  the  heat  of  the  sun,  or  loath  to  tear  himself 
away  from  the  lovely  presence  of  Senhora  Prout,  I  shall 
not  pretend  to  say — at  all  events,  he  positively  refused 
to  go  with  me,  so  I  set  out  on  the  excursion  alone. 


245 


CHAPTER     XXIV. 

Solitary  Canoe  Excursion. — Adventure  with  an  Enormous 
Snake. — Return  to  the  Mills. — The  fatal  End  of  a  Somnam- 
bulist.— An  extraordinary  Marriage. — Invitation  to  visit 
"  Vigia." 

Le.wing  L'Aranjeira,  I  proceeded  slowly  up  the  stream. 
The  day  was  beautiful,  and  the  air  so  sublimated  with  the 
burning  sunlight,  that  even  the  smallest  object  shone 
amid  the  deep  green  of  the  fohage  with  picture-like  dis- 
tinctness ;  scarcely  a  flower,  or  tree,  or  plant,  which 
gemmed  the  banks,  escaped  my  observation.  The  sky 
above  me  was  like  that  of  Italy,  pure  and  translucent, 
and  so  etherial  and  cloudless  as  to  exhaust  the  human 
vision,  which  seeks  in  vain  for  something  upon  which  to 
concentrate  its  scattered  rays.  A  few  insects  floated 
about  in  the  clear  atmosphere  ;  but  they  were  the  only 
signs  of  life  that  were  manifest.  The  birds  had  retired 
to  their  shady  bowers  in  the  thickets,  but  at  intervals  I 
caught  hasty  glimpses  of  their  gay  plumes  through  the 
interstices  of  the  thickly  matted  foliage. 

Entering  the  mouth  of  a  tributary  brook,  my  canoe 
came  in  collision  with  a  hidden  snag,  with  such  force  as 
nearly  to  capsize  it.     My  coat  and  game  bag  both  fell 


246 


into  the  water,  thus  rendering  my  ammunition  unfit  for 
immediate  use.  This  was  quite  discouraging,  but  as  the 
tide  was  now  running  up  with  great  power,  it  was  useless 
to  think  of  returning,  therefore  I  made  the  best  of  the 
accident  which  had  occurred,  by  exposing  my  powder- 
horn  and  percussion  caps  to  the  influence  of  the  sun,  and 
pushing  on  in  my  "  montaria"  up  the  streamlet. 

The  banks  gradually  approached  nearer  and  nearer  to 
each  other  as  I  advanced,  and  at  length  not  more  than  a 
few  yards  intervened  between  them.  The  trees  on  the 
right  hand  bank  were  large  and  closely  congregated 
together.  On  the  left  was  a  dense  thicket  of  mangroves, 
whose  long  and  numerous  shoots  radiating  in  all  direc- 
tions, and  then  sinking  down  again  into  the  muddy  bot- 
tom of  the  stream,  constituted  an  extraordinary  spectacle 
of  vegetable  network.  Beneath  its  shelter  I  saw  a  num- 
ber of  "  great  rails'''  running  along,  but  fortunately  for 
them  I  was  incapacitated  from  doing  them  any  harm. 
Other  birds  also  flew  about  the  tree  tops  over  my  head ; 
but  they,  too,  were  safe,  and  conscious  only  of  liberty, 
seemed  to  take  little  heed  of  my  approach. 

While  cogitating  upon  my  deplorable  situation,  my 
eyes  unconsciously  closed  upon  the  romantic  scene 
around,  and  astonishing  as  it  may  appear  to  the  reader, 
I  actually /e^/  asleep.  How  long  this  slumber  continued 
I  am  unable  to  say,  but  finally  it  was  broken  by  the  loud 
paddling  of  a  canoe  near  by.  Starting  up  as  if  from 
a  wild  dream,  I  now  became  aware  of  all  that  had  passed, 


247 


and  of  my  present  condition.  But  what  was  my  amaze- 
ment on  discovering  that  my  boat  was  resting  on  a 
miniature  "  Ararat,"  where  it  had  been  left  by  the  re- 
ceding waters,  and  was  so  securely  fixed  that  without 
assistance  it  would  undoubtedly  have  been  impossible 
for  me  to  have  left  the  spot  until  the  change  of  the  tide 
had  again  over-flooded  it  ?  Aground  under  such  circum- 
stances, for  two  or  three  hours,  was  a  trial  to  which  Job, 
luckily,  was  never  subjected.  Thanks,  then,  to  the  kind 
fortune  which  relieved  nie  from  my  provoking  situa- 
tion. 

A  boat  was  drawing  nigh,  not  exactly  manned,  but 
under  the  management  of  two  women,  and  a  young 
damsel,  whose  position  in  the  stern  of  the  canoe  indi- 
cated that  she  acted  as  its  pilotess ;  and  a  right  skilful 
and  pretty  one  she  made !  Neither  of  them  had  any 
clothing  whatever  above  their  waist,  and  little  need  had 
they  of  them  in  this  wilderness,  where  the  birds  and 
flowers  were  the  only  beholders  of  their  charms  !  As 
soon  as  their  eyes  fell  upon  me,  they  began  to  laugh 
most  immoderately,  and  quizzically  asked  me  how  I 
became  perched  u{)Ou  that  sand  bar  ?  It  certainly  was  a 
source  of  great  wonderment  to  them,  but  as  soon  as  I 
had  given  them  as  graphic  an  explanation  as  I  was  able 
of  the  matter,  they  immediately  jumped  into  the  water, 
and  by  their  united  strength,  shortly  succeeded  in  setting 
my   "  montaria"  once  more  afloat. 

Having  proceeded  for  at  least  half  a  mile  further  up 


248 


the  stream,  I  discerned  an  immense  object  tumbling  and 
rolling  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  within  five  or  six  rods 
in  front  of  my  canoe.  What  it  was  I  could  not  defi- 
nitely determine,  but  I  resolved  if  possible  to  give  it 
a  heavy  broadside.  To  this  effect  I  examined  my  ammu- 
nition, and  found  that  a  portion  of  it  was  perfectly  dry, 
and  several  of  the  caps  in  a  condition  for  use.  Putting  a 
tremendous  charge  in  my  gun,  I  held  it  ready  to  fire  at 
the  first  favorable  opportunity,  and  in  this  manner  gra- 
dually approached  the  unknown  monster.  To  ray  horror 
I  at  length  perceived  that  it  was  a  prodigious  "  boa," 
about  twenty-five  feet  in  length.  In  a  moment  both  of 
my  barrels  were  discharged,  but  with  what  effect  could 
not  for  some  time  be  seen,  on  account  of  the  density  of  the 
smoke.  When  it  had  cleared  away,  I  had  an  excellent 
view  of  the  serpent,  stretched  out  to  his  full  extent  along 
the  margin  of  the  stream,  and  apparently  dead  ! 

Re-loading  ray  gun,  I  again  fired  at  the  monster,  and 
evidently  gave  hira  its  entire  contents.  Upon  receiving 
this,  his  animation,  which  seemed  to  have  been  suspended 
since  my  first  charge,  once  more  returned,  and  the  ani- 
mal swam  quickly  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream. 
His  strange  motions  and  convolutions  in  the  water, 
showed  very  plainly  that  he  was  suffering  with  violent 
pain.  Finally  he  opened  his  mouth  to  its  utmost  extent, 
and  to  my  surprise  out  came  an  iraraense  Muscovy  duck 
of  the  largest  size,  which,  frora  its  appearance,  I  judged 
to  have   been  recently  swallowed.     While   in  the   act 


PARA.  249 

of  ejecting    this   bird,   I   deliberately    stationed    nij-self 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  "  boa,"  prepared  to  fire  into  his 
mouth  the  instant  he  had  disgorged  himself  of  the  duck. 
Intense,  however,  was  my  disappointment  when  the  cap 
of  ray  gun  exploded  without  igniting  the  powder.     This 
was  perplexing  indeed  !      The  snake,  being  now  relieved 
of  the  load  on  his  stomach,  began  to  be  comparatively 
lively  and   frisky  once   more.     At  last  he   plunged  his 
head  down  into  the  water,  and  it  seemed  to  me  as  if  he 
was  entering  some  concealed  hole  in  the  bank  of  the 
stream  ;  finally  only  one  foot  of  his  tail  was  visible  above 
the   surface,  the  other  twenty-four  having   disappeared 
from  my  sight.     What  was  to  be  done  ?     You  must  not 
accuse  me  of  fibbing,  dear  reader,  when  I  say,  that  in  my 
desperation  I  seized  with  my  hands  the  extremity  of  the 
serpent's  tail,  and  gave  it  a  very  vigorous  pull.     The  fel- 
low, it  appeared,  had  merely  been  practising  a  ruse  de 
guerre,  for  his  head  immediately  emerged  from  the  water, 
and  turning  towards  me,  lie  thrust  out  his  forked  tongue, 
and  began  to  hiss  loudly,  while  all  the  time  his  eyes  glis- 
tened like  coals  of  fire.    Such  positive  effrontery  as  this  was 
not  to  be  endured,  so  I  raised  my  gun  and  gave  the  crea- 
ture another  charge.     This,  I  thought,  broke  his  neck,  for 
be   floated   lifelessly   as  it  were,  to  the  shore.      I  now 
conjectured   that  his  end  was   near,  but  in  this  suppo- 
sition I  was  altogether   mistaken.     More  than  an  hour 
elapsed,    and    still  the    serpent    lived,    and    moreover 
seemed  to  be  recovering  his  former  activity.     I  watched 

n* 


I 


250  PARA. 

him  with  as  much  eagerness  as  a  cat  ogles  a  mouse,  for 
I  was  fearful  that  he  might  escape  me,  and  my  fears 
were  but  too  well  founded — alas  !  too  true  !  ! !  Having 
acquired  a  sufficiency  of  strength,  he  commenced  a  slow 
ascent  of  the  bank  ;  as  my  dry  ammunition  was  now 
exhausted,  it  was  out  of  my  power  to  offer  him  further 
molestation,  therefore  he  stole  on  through  the  bushes 
with  safety,  and  to  my  great  chagrin  and  mortification 
eventually  disappeared  amid  the  shrubbery  ! 

Dejected  and  sorrowful  I  turned  my  canoe,  and  began 
to  retrace  my  winding  course  towards  L'Aranjeira. 
"  What !"  I  ruminated,  "  will  J.  say  when  I  tell  him 
of  my  encounter  with  the  snake  ?  What  a  capital 
handle  it  will  be  for  the  quizzing  humor  of  my  friend 
W.  at  the  mills  !  Will  they  not  say  that  my  optics 
were  egregiously  imposed  upon,  and  that  they  did  not 
believe  the  snake  was  more  than  five  or  six  feet  in 
length  (if,  indeed,  I  saw  any),  but  that  the  fear  and 
excitement  T  was  under  at  the  time,  magnified  him  to 
quadruple  his  actual  size?"  This  I  was  confident 
would  be  said  ;  and  if  ever  an  Indian  regretted  the 
loss  of  an  enemy's  scalp,  so  did  I  mourn  for  the  loss 
of  that  huge  and  valuable  snake  ! 

On  arriving  at  the  "orange  grove,"  J.  met  me  at  the 
shore,  having  been  somewhat  anxious  as  to  the  cause  of 
my  protracted  absence,  and  in  constant  expectation  of 
my  return  for  the  two  past  hours.  Seeing  that  I  had 
no  game,  his  surprise   ivas  increased^  and  he  eagerly 


251 


inquired  tlie  reason  of  my  detention.  I  then  gave  liim 
a  full  and  correct  account  of  all  that  had  befallen  me, 
but  I  could  see  by  the  smile  in  his  eye  that  he  was 
rather  inclined  to  be  sceptical. 

"  Well,  Jack,"  said  he,  "  you  sometimes  deal  with  the 
strange  and  wonderful,  but  this  snake  story  goes  ahead 
of  anything  I  ever  heard  you  relate  before.  You  never 
gave  me  the  slightest  reason  to  suspect  your  veracity, 
but  yet  may  not  your  eyes  have  been  deceived  as  to  the 
length  of  the  creature  ?  You  probably  remember  the 
anecdote  T  told  you  some  time  ago  of  the  captain  and 
his  eighty  foot  snake  ;  he  intended  to  tell  the  truth,  but 
by  a  simple  experiment  I  discovered  that  his  optics  were 
of  a  multiplying  nature  !     I  fear  yours  are  likewise  f" 

"  Now,  J.,  for  friendship's  sake,  don't  say  another 
word  on  this  matter  to-day,  for  I  am  sufficiently 
wretched  in  my  disappointment.  I  see  plainly  that  I 
am  destined  to  be  a  martyr  to  disbelief  from  this  day's 
ill-luck.  But  let  us  now  take  a  swing  in  our  hammocks 
under  the  veranda,  and  have  a  comfortable  smoke 
together,  for  I  long  to  bury  in  oblivion  the  provoking 
events  of  this  afternoon  !" 

At  daybreak  on  the  following  morning  we  bade  fare- 
well to  L'Aranjeira,  and  started  on  our  return  to 
Maguary.  We  had  not  only  a  considerable  number  of 
new  birds  and  other  curiosities,  but  also  a  large  supply 
of  fruit  of  various  kinds,  with  which  the  generous-hearted 
natives  had  loaded  our  canoe. 


i 


252 


Without  meeting  with  any  incidents  by  the  way, 
except  of  the  sporting  kind,  we  at  length  arrived  at  the 
"  mills."  W.  seemed  glad  to  see  us  again ;  but  oh  ! 
how  he  did  laugh  when  J.  related  to  him  ray  snake 
adventure. 

"  Well !"  said  he,  "  that  will  do  for  John  to  tell  his 
friends  when  he  gets  home,  or  will  do  to  serve  up  to  the 
marines  on  the  passage  !  And,"  continued  he,  address- 
ing me,  "  allow  me  to  insinuate  in  the  most  gentle  man- 
ner in  the  world,  that  if  you  should  ever  publish  an 
account  of  this  singular  story,  it  would  be  well  for  you 
to  say,  by  way  of  embellishment,  that  when  you  fired 
into  the  snake,  he  became  seriously  indisposed  ;  where- 
upon a  whole  fiock  of  ducks  flew  out  of  his  mouth  P^ 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  T  left  Maguary  for 
the  city.  I  was  accompanied  on  this  particular  trip  by 
a  Scotch  gentleman,  who  had  resided  at  Para  for  many 
years.  He  was  a  remarkably  intelligent  person,  and  an 
excellent  companion.  His  fund  of  anecdotes  and  mar- 
vellous stories  seemed  inexhaustible,  and  I  experienced 
much  pleasure  in  listening  to  their  narration  from  his 
own  lips.  The  following  incident,  I  remember,  struck 
me  very  forcibly  at  the  time  : — 

"  Not  many  years  ago,"  said  he,  "  while  residing  in 
one  of  the  loftiest  houses  in  the  city,  I  had  a  room-mate 
by  the  name  of  Fernando.  He  was  an  amiable  and 
interesting  young  man,  but  much  given  to  walking  in 
his  sleep ;  in  a  word,  he  was  a  somnambulist !     Our 


253 


apartment  was  situated  on  the  fourth  floor,  and  scarcely 
a  night  passed    that    my   companion   did   not  get  up 
and  perform  his  nocturnal  perambulations  through  the 
house,     lie  would  unbolt  the  door  as  deliberately  as  if 
be  were  awake,  and  walk  about  from   room   to  room 
without  e\er  meeting   with   any   accident,  and   at   last 
return  quietly  to  his  own  doraicil.     Weeks  glided  away, 
and  I  became  so  accustomed  to  his  peculiar  habits  that 
all  apprehensions  of  danger  vanished  from  my  mind.     I 
little  dreamed   of  the  dreadful  consequences  which  were 
,  to  ensue.     One  night,  while  the  moon  was  shedding  her 
mellow  rays  in  a  network  of  light  through  the  casement, 
I  distinctly   saw   my  friend  arise,  walk  directly  towards 
the  window,  open  it,  and  then  jump  out.     The  noise  of 
his  fall,  and  the  agonizing  shriek  which  broke  instantly 
upon  ray  ear,  like  the  wail  of  a  condemned  spirit,  roused 
me  from  the  state  of  stupor  in  which  I  had  been  lying, 
and  I  started  up,  as  if  just  awakened  from   a  horrid 
dream.     My  heart  throbbed  vehemently,  and  my  pulses 
thrilled  with   fear.     Had   I   been   the  victim  of  night- 
mare 1     Alas  !    one  glance  at  the   empty  hammock  of 
my  companion  banished  away  this  delusion,  and  the  ter- 
rible truth  rushed  at  once  like  a  cataract  upon  my  mind. 
Goaded  almost   to  madness,   I   rushed  to  an   adjacent 
room,  where  several  of  the  household  were  sleeping,  and 
told   them  briefly   all   that  had   occurred.     The  intelli- 
gence filled  them  with  dismay.     Getting  up  as  soon  as 
possible,    a  lantern   was   procured,   and   we   went   out 


254  PARA. 

together  into  the  street ;  and  there,  on  the  cold  pave- 
ment, beneath  that  fatal  window,  lay  the  crushed  and 
lifeless  body  of  my  mysterious  room-mate  weltering  in  a 
pool  of  blood  and  gore  !" 

Walking  on  with  rapid  steps  through  the  shady 
avenue  of  the  forest,  we  reached  the  Roscenia  de  Nazare 
shortly  after  sunset.  Pursuing  our  way  into  the  city,  I 
repaired  to  Mr.  Campbell's  hospitable  mansion,  where  I 
spent  the  night.  In  the  morning  I  was  introduced  to  a 
young  American  planter,  who  had  recently  arrived  from 
the  island  of  Madeira.  The  brief  narrative  which  he 
gave  me  of  his  adventures  since  leaving  home  was 
exceedingly  novel  and  entertaining.  He  told  me  that  it 
was  nearly  a  year  since  his  departure  from  the  United 
States,  and  that  in  the  meantime  he  had  visited  Spain 
and  several  other  European  countries.  While  on  a 
return  passage  to  his  native  land,  the  vessel  in  which  he 
was  embarked  "  sprang  a  leak,"  and  was  soon  reduced 
to  a  sinking  condition.  Being  unable  to  proceed  on  the 
voyage,  the  captain  determined  to  run  his  ship  into  the 
nearest  port.  Soon  they  were  safely  anchored  in  one  of 
the  harbors  of  Madeira.  So  well  pleased  was  our  ad- 
venturer with  the  attractions  of  this  island,  that  he 
resolved  to  make  a  short  stay  before  exposing  himself 
again  to  the  perils  of  the  great  deep.  In  a  few  days  he 
became  desperately  enamored  of  one  of  the  beautiful 
maids  of  the  country  ;  and  so  strong  was  the  love  with 
which  he  was  thus  suddenly  inspired,  that  he  resolved 


255 


to  make  love  to  her  forthwith,  and  if  possible  marry  her. 
She  wjvs  a  lovely  girl,  and  could    not  have   been    more 
than  sixteen  or  seventeen  years  of  age.     The  obstacles 
which  were  in  the  way  of  the  desired  union  would  have 
intimidated  any   one  of  a  less  enterprising  nature  than 
our  heroic  friend.     In  the  first  place  they  were  unable  to 
speak  each  other's  language ;    secondly,   they  were   of 
opposite  religious  sects,  the  young  lady  and  her  family 
being  true  Catholics,  while  our  hero  himself  was  a  Pro- 
testant.    What  was  to  be  done  under  circumstances  so 
inauspicious  as  these  !     Fortunately,  the  brother  of  the 
damsel  was  conversant  with  both   the  English  and  the 
Portuguese  tongues.     To  him  therefore  our  friend  pro- 
cured an  introduction,  and  through   him   a  regular  and 
persevering  courtship   was  commenced  and  carried  on 
for  the  period  of  four   weeks.     The  result  was  the  com- 
plete  discomfiture  of    the    handsome    Senhorita,    who 
yielded  up  her  heart  freely  to  her  victor,  on  condition  that 
he  would  instantly  become  a  Catholic.     To  this  he  was 
obliged  to  consent,  and  in  a  few  days  after  he  was  mar- 
ried to  the  young  lady,  whose  acquaintance  was  made  so 
accidentally,  and  who,  in  would  seem,  had  been  predes- 
tined for   him  by  heaven — for  only  a  few  weeks  had 
elapsed  since  neither  of  them  was  aware  of  the  exist- 
ence of  the  other ! 

Desiring  to  see  Brazil  before  returning  to  the  United 
States,  he  took  passage  with  his  wife  in  a  vessel  bound 
for  Para.     His    brother-in-law    accompanied    him,    and 


256  PARA. 

undoubtedly  made  himself  useful  as  a  translator  or 
medium  of  communication  between  the  happy  pair  dur- 
ing the  blissful  period  of  their  honey  moon  ! 

While  taking  a  promenade  through  the  streets  of  the 
city,  I  met  with  Captain  Hayden,  with  whom  I  strolled 
out  to  the  Roscenia.  He  said  that  he  had  been  ordered 
by  the  "  President "  of  the  Province  to  take  the  Bishop 
down  to  the  village  of  Vigia  in  his  steam  vessel,  the 
"  Thetis,"  and  in  the  generosity  of  his  heart  he  gave  me 
an  invitation  to  accompany  him  on  this  excursion.  This 
kind  proposal  accorded  so  well  with  my  desires,  that  I 
accepted  it  at  once. 


257 


CHAPTER     XXV. 

Embarkation  for  Vigia. — The  Captain's  Cabin. — Plenitude  of 
Cockroaches. — Arrival  at  Vigia. — The  Cathedral. — A  novel 
Spectacle. — A  Cabinet  of  Children. — An  Evening  Scene. 

Just  before  sunset  one  bright  afternoon,  I  went  on  board 
of  the  "  Thetis,"  which  the  Captain  had  informed  lue 
was  to  leave  with  the  tiood  tide  in  the  morning,  at  least 
two  hours  before  the  break  of  day.  The  Bishop,  Chief 
Padre,  and  otliers  of  the  holy  faculty  were  already 
aboard,  and  very  plejisant,  good-natured,  and  sociable 
persons  they  proved  to  be.  The  evening  was,  as  usual, 
extremely  fine,  and  from  the  deck  of  our  sinall  vessel 
the  scenery  which  surrounded  us  seemed  inexpressibly 
beautiful.  By  the  rich  moonlight,  the  romantic  city 
which  lay  directly  before  us,  with  its  curious  old  edifices 
and  tall  green  plants  of  grotesque  forms  peeping  up 
here  and  there,  looked  as  if  it  might  be  the  fairy  caj)ital 
of  some  enchanted  kingdom  !  On  either  bank  of  the 
noble  river  ])roudly  arose  the  wild  forest  of  Brazil  in  all 
its  incomparable  grandeur  and  magnificence,  standing  as 
lovely  and  as  beautiful  as  it  did  a  thousand  years  ago, 
and  looking  as  youthful  and  as  green  ! 

At  four  o'clock  in   the  morning  we  weighed  anchor, 


258  PARA, 

and  with  the  united  aid  of  steara,  wind,  and  tide,  made 
a  rapid  descent  of  the  river.  At  sunrise  we  were  more 
than  twenty  miles  from  Para,  and  sailing  on  at  the  rate 
of  nine  or  ten  knots  per  hour.  The  firmament  above  us 
was  of  the  clearest  blue.  The  undulating  surface  of  the 
water  was  sparkling  with  the  reflected  sunlight,  while 
the  woods  along  the  shore  were  dripping  with  dew,  and 
shivering  in  the  mild  and  gladsome  breeze  of  morn ; 
flocks  of  birds  flew  with  a  chattering  sound  far  over  our 
heads,  and  occasionally  we  were  visited  by  large  moths 
and  glittering  butterflies  from  the  land.  Triumphantly 
our  vessel  dashed  on  "  like  a  thing  of  life,"  with  her 
wing-like  sail  fully  distended  and  the  spray  of  her 
wheels  glistening  with  rainbow  hues  in  the  translucent 
rays  of  the  sun. 

I  was  standing  near  the  forecastle,  leaning  against  the 
large  thirty-two  pounder  which  was  there  mounted  on  a 
swivel,  gazing  enraptured  upon  the  glorious  prospect^ 
and  lulled  into  a  kind  of  reverie  by  the  tinkling  of  the 
wavelets  as  they  broke  softly  upon  our  coppered  prow, 
when  I  was  suddenly  aroused  from  this  state  of  dreamy 
delight  by  the  steward,  who  summoned  me  to  the  break- 
fast-table in  the  Captain's  cabin. 

The  cabin  was  small,  but  particularly  neat  and  hand- 
somely furnished.  •  It  was  supplied  with  a  comfortable 
sofa,  a  swinging  library  of  select  books,  and  a  splendidly 
framed  portrait  of  the  Emperor,  Don  Pedro  Secundo. 

Opening  one   of  the  pantry  doors,  in  order  to  get  a 


269 


glass  of  water,  a  strange  scene  of  insect  confusion 
presented  itself,  accompanied  by  a  palpable  sound  of 
scampering,  crawling,  and  busy  running  to  and  fro,  such 
as  nothing  but  a  legion  of  frightened  cockroaches  could 
make.  They  had  been  just  feasting  themselves  upon  a 
dish  of  sweetmeats  which  was  exposed  on  one  of  the 
shelves,  but  as  soon  as  they  beheld  my  eyes  staring 
upon  them,  they  rushed  so  quickly  to  their  various  hid- 
ing places  that  in  a  few  moments  not  a  single  one  of  the 
whole  army  was  to  be  seen.  The  Captain,  who  was 
reclining  on  the  sofa,  beheld  the  scene  with  the  most 
perfect  apathy,  and  merely  remarked  that  the  whole 
vessel  was  perfectly  overrun  with  these  odious  vermin, 
and  that  they  were  the  most  prolific  creatures  in  the 
world  ! 

Those  who  have  never  visited  the  Tropics,  can  hardly 
reahze  the  size  which  these  insects  attain  !  I  have  seen 
them  nearly  four  inches  in  length,  with  grossly  corpulent 
bodies  and  savage-looking  physiognomies,  running  about 
like  hungry  lions,  seeking  something  to  devour.  Two 
or  three  "  roosters  "  were  permitted  to  cruise  at  large 
over  the  deck,  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  their  increase 
within  bounds !  I  was  often  much  amused  to  see 
these  feathered  bipeds  give  rapid  chase  to  a  large  roach 
which  they  perceived  at  some  distance,  and  then  halt 
suddenly  when  they  had  reached  him,  as  if  alarmed  at 
his  prodigious  size  and  ferocious  appearance  !  Muthinks 
no  object  in  nature  could  possibly  bo  more  frightful  than 


260  PARA. 

one  of  these  creatures  when  viewed  through  a  powerful 
magnifying  glass ! 

At  two  o'clock  we  entered  the  bay  in  fine  style,  our 
flag-s  waving  handsomely  in  the  gentle  breeze,  and  our 
"  long  thirty-two"  thundering  forth  her  deafening  salutes, 
at  short  and  measured  intervals  ! 

My  first  impressions  of  Vigia  were  highly  favorable. 
The  shores  of  the  bay  were  of  white  sand  and  of  ex- 
tremely gradual  ascent.  Along  the  beach,  down  to  the 
water's  edge,  was  a  dense  assemblage  of  people,  who  had 
gathered  together  from  all  parts  of  the  adjacent  country 
for  the  purpose  of  welcoming  the  Bishop — so  great  was 
the  enthusiasm  which  the  news  of  his  coming  bad 
created. 

When  the  "  Thetis  "  had  aj>proached  within  a  suitable 
distance  from  the  shore,  she  dropped  anchor  in  the 
stream.  Immediately  a  long  and  ornamental  pleasure 
boat  left  the  beach,  and  was  propelled  towards  us  with 
exceeding  rapidity.  Beneath  an  ornamental  canopy  the 
"  presidenti  "  of  the  village  and  several  other  worthy  dig- 
nitaries sat  luxuriantly  at  their  ease  on  cushioned  seats, 
while  a  dozen  swarthy  negroes  were  pulling  at  their  oars 
in  the  body  of  the  craft,  with  a  degree  of  enthusiasm 
which  was  quite  remarkable. 

As  soon  as  we  were  boarded  by  this  official  delegation, 
an  amusing  scene  ensmed,  of  outlandish  gesticulation, 
vehement  conversation,  and  ridiculous  grimace.  The 
Bishop  having  put  on  his  splendid  robes  of  office  and 


PARA.  261 

seated  himself  in  the  boat,  it  pushed  ofi'  directly  for  the 
shore.  Nothing  could  have  been  richer  than  the  Bishop's 
attire.  His  gown  was  composed  of  scarlet  silk,  while  over 
his  shoulders  and  breast  drooped  a  magnificent  cape 
From  his  neck  was  suspended  an  elegantly  carved  cross 
of  gold,  while  on  his  head  he  wore  a  three-cornered  hat, 
banded  by  an  embroidered  fillet  of  golden  tissue. 

No  sooner  had  the  pinnace  touched  the  shore,  than  the 
congregated  throng  of  devotees  prostrated  themselves 
simultaneously  upon  the  ground.  The  crowd  having 
opened  a  passage  through  their  midst,  the  Bishop  and 
his  attendants  passed  slowly  on  towards  the  cathedral, 
whose  bells  were  then  ringing  out  a  sonorous  welcome  ! 

Entering  the  church  in  company  with  Capt.  Ilayden, 
we  took  our  position  in  front,  near  one  of  the  principal 
altars.  Soon  the  chant  commenced,  the  most  solemn, 
deep,  and  wildest  strain  of  melody  to  which  my  ears  had 
ever  listened. 

During  the  progress  of  the  prayer  which  followed  the 
music,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  the  sound  of  ap- 
proaching footsteps,  and  turning  my  head  a  little  on  one 
side,  from  a  natural  curiosity  to  see  by  whom  they  were 
occasioned,  what  was  my  astonishment  at  beholding  a 
small  Cupid-like  boy,  in  a  state  of  absolute  nakedness, 
walking  up  artlessly  towards  the  altar,  his  face  beaming 
with  innocence,  and  unsuflfused  by  the  slightest  blush  of 
shame ! 


262  PARA. 

Emerging  from  the  cathedral  we  strolled  through  the 
town  and  finally  stopped  at  the  humble  cottage  of  the 
pilot  who  had  guided  our  vessel  safely  into  the  harbor. 
It  was  prettily  situated  near  the  margin  of  the  river, 
and  so  completely  enveloped  with  luxuriant  fruit-trees, 
that  at  the  distance  of  a  few  rods  it  could  hardly  be 
discerned. 

Never  did  any  one  possess  a  more  varied  and  interest- 
ing cabinet  of  children  than  this  good  natured  pilot. 
They  were  four  in  number,  but  yet  they  were  as  distinct 
from  each  other  as  if  they  had  been  born  of  as  many 
distinct  races.  The  youngest  was  a  genuine  Brazilian, 
with  a  light  brunette  complexion — the  next  was  of  a 
general  white,  with  dark  freckly  spots  of  a  monstrous 
size,  giving  the  youngster  quite  a  leopard-like  appear- 
ance— the  third  was  a  perfect  mulatto — while  the  eldest 
was  a  handsome  girl,  with  regular  features  and  the  rich 
olive  skin  of  the  mameluke. 

The  evening  was  delightful,  and  we  spent  it  pleasantly 
on  board  of  the  steamer.  The  waters  of  the  bay  were  as 
waveless  as  those  of  a  sleeping  lake  on  a  mild  and  tran- 
quil summer's  night.  Fantastic  craft  glided  in  the  star- 
hght,  each  one  leaving  behind  it  a  train  of  phosphores- 
cent light.  Along  the  shore,  the  bushes  were  drooping 
languidly,  as  if  overcome  with  weariness,  while  their  pro- 
fusion of  fragrant  flowers  gave  out  their  delicious  sweet- 
ness to  the  air.     But  above  everything  else,  towered  the 


263 


splendid  ruin  of  an  ancient  abbey,  which  at  tliat  time  and 
with  the  feehngs  which  then  overpowered  my  mind, 
seemed  like  a  great  tombstone  ! — a  chronicler  of  ages 
that  had  passed  away  ! 


264  PARA, 


CHAPTER   XXVI. 

Our  Quarters  on  Shore. — An  Intrusion. — A  Tableau  of  Female 
Beauty. — Description  of  Victurena,  the  Maid  of  Vigia. — Sudden 
Illness  of  the  Captain. — Departure  from  Vigia. — Embarkation 
for  the  United  States. — Farewell  to  Brazil. 

A  CONSULTATION  being  held  in  the  morning,  it  was  re- 
solved that  a  change  of  quarters  be  effected  immediately 
— from  the  vessel  to  the  shore  1  The  steward  was,  there- 
fore, dispatched  to  the  village  for  the  purpose  of  hiring  a 
suitable  house  for  our  accommodation.  Having  fjiith- 
fully  executed  this  important  mission,  he  returned  to  the 
vessel,  and  gave  us  so  flattering  an  account  of  the  place 
he  had  selected,  that  we  determined  to  go  and  take 
possession  of  it  without  delay. 

We  found  the  building  to  be  of  good  size,  well  ven- 
tilated, and  in  a  condition  for  immediate  habitation.  It 
was  located  on  the  front  street  of  the  village,  and  com- 
manded an  extensive  view  of  the  bay  and  its  surrounding 
scenery,  while  directly  before  it  lay  an  immense  grass- 
plot,  looking  like  a  carpet  of  vivid  green  ! 

Fortunately  our  present  establishment  was  provided 
with  a  cosy  little  veranda,  and  a  small  yard,  plentifully 
supplied  with  a  variety  of  shady  trees. 


PARA.  265 

One  day  I  ventured,  as  if  by  accident,  into  the  garden 
of  our  neighbors,  nor  did  I  repent  my  temerity,  although 
the  first  scene  which  I  beheld,  convicted  me  of  unwar- 
rantable intrusion,  and  chained  me  to  the  spot  with 
mingled  astonishment  and  admiration.  The  dream-like 
vision  which  I  saw,  was  that  of  four  love-inspiring 
maidens,  in  their  lightest  garbs,  artlessly  reclining  upon 
the  ground,  beneath  tlic  refreshing  shade  of  a  banana 
grove  ! 

Recovering  in  a  measure  from  my  amazement,  I 
walked  up  deliberately  to  the  spot  where  the  damsels 
were  resting,  and  having  saluted  them,  began  to  stam- 
mer out  an  apology  for  the  liberty  I  had  taken.  They, 
however,  laughed  merrily,  as  if  exceedingly  amused  at 
my  embarrassment,  and  then  reassured  me  by  a  cordial 
welcome. 

Grateful  for  this  kind  reception,  I  presented  each  of 
them  with  a  cigar,  and  while  they  are  thus  engaged  in 
smoking,  which  the  reader  is  to  understand  they  did  with 
the  utmost  [/oiit,  I  crave  the  privilege  of  describing  one 
of  them. 

In  a  word,  she  was  incomparably  the  most  beautiful 
girl  I  had  ever  seen  !  In  stature  she  was  rather  inferior 
to  the  average  of  womankind,  though  admirably  propor- 
tioned in  every  limb.  Half  an  inch  more  would  cer- 
tainly have  impaired  the  perfect  symmetry  of  her  angelic 
form. 

Iler  face  was  oval,  and  her  features  as  classic  and  ox- 
12 


266  PARA. 

quisitely  chiselled  as  those  of  a  Grecian  maid.  Her 
complexion  was  rich,  being  slightly  tinged  with  the  olive 
and  rose,  and  as  smooth,  as  moist,  and  as  soft,  as  that 
of  a  young  Circassian.  Her  eyes  were  as  black  as  the 
darkness  of  a  midnight  tempest  at  sea,  and  their  glances 
as  quick  and  bright  as  the  lurid  gleams  of  the  lightning ! 
But  to  what  can  I  liken  her  ripe,  pouting,  and  ruby  lips  ! 
even  cherries,  strawberries,  and  every  other  crimson  fruit 
which  I  can  call  to  my  recollection,  seem  hardly  ade- 
quate for  a  comparison !  They  were  as  red  and  glowing 
as  the  2>ure  blood  which  coursed  in  her  veins  ;  and  the 
innocent  smile  which  shed  its  light  over  her  lovely  coun- 
tenance, animating  every  feature  with  its  celestial  sun- 
light, must  have  filled  with  delight  those  guardian  spirits 
by  whom  she  is  ceaselessly  protected — who  watch  over 
her  fondly — the  one  over  her  right  shoulder,  the  other 
over  her  left. 

Her  head  was  profusely  decorated  with  heavy  clusters 
of  fine  dark  hair,  which  hung  in  dishevelled  wavy  tresses 
over  her  delicately  rounded  neck  and  shoulders.  They 
were  intertwined  with  a  few  flowerets,  which  were  the 
only  ornaments  she  wore  !  Lovely  girl !  she  needed  none 
save  those  with  which  nature  had  gifted  her ! 

Her  dress  was  becoming  and  remarkably  well  adapted 
to  her  form  and  figure.  It  was  sufficiently  short  to  dis- 
close two  of  the  prettiest  feet  imaginable,  and  drooped  so 
innocently  low  as  to  reveal  a  bosom  of  the  most  ravish- 


PARA.  267 

ing  beauty.     Such  was  the  charming  maid   of  Vigia. 
Iler  name  was  Victurona  ! 

The  relation  of  my  adventure,  on  my  return  to  the 
Captain's  quarters,  created  a  wonderful  deal  of  merri- 
ment among  the  officers,  who  said  that  I  was  now  in  a 
fair  way  of  making  a  conquest,  provided  I  only  had  the 
courage  to  persevere.  Ahxs  !  How  would  it  have  been 
possible  for  me  ever  to  have  become  a  conqueror,  when  I 

was  already  a  cajHlve  ! 

*  *  *  *  * 

Two  weeks  passed  by,  and  we  were  still  keeping 
bachelor's  hall  in  the  quiet  village  of  Vigia  !  During  the 
day,  we  were  wout  to  stroll  out  for  miles  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  town,  making  visits  at  the  different  plantations 
and  country  residences.  Our  barrack-room  was  supplied 
with  a  goodly  assortment  of  books  and  papers  from  the 
vessel,  and  also  with  a  variety  of  musical  instruments, 
upon  which  several  of  the  officers  played  with  considera- 
ble skill.  Our  evenings  were  generally  devoted  to  danc- 
ing, bathing,  visiting,  and  dramatic  performances.  The 
latter  were  composed  by  the  officers,  and  acted  by  them 
with  much  gusto.  They  were  invariably  of  a  ludicrous 
character,  and  I  never  witnessed  more  comic  representa- 
tions of  human  nature,  even  on  a  theatrical  stage,  than 
those  exhibited  by  these  jolly  fellows,  solely  for  their  own 
personal  gratification  and  amusement. 

But  numerous  as  were  the  other  attractions  of  Viijia. 
let  no  one  for  a  moment  suppose  that  the  best  of  them 


268  PARA. 

bore  the  slightest  comparison  to  the  indefinable  charms 
of  Victurena  ! — no  :  it  was  seldom  that  her  angelic  form 
was  absent  from  my  thoughts ;  and  even  now,  when  in 
the  small  and  solitary  apartment  which  I  call  ray  own,  I 
sometimes  think  in  silence  of  the  fairest  girl  who  ever 
crossed  my  wanderings  in  the  sunny  south — of  the  many 
walks  we  took  together  by  the  holy  moonlight  of  the 
tropics,  along  the  banks  of  the  loneliest  and  mightiest  of 
rivers — it  seems  almost  to  my  imagination,  as  if  I  had 
indeed  communed  with  one  from  the  spirit  land ! 
*  *  *  * 

But  a  dark  pall  was  at  length  flung  over  our  rural 
enjoyments,  by  the  sudden  illness  of  our  beloved  captain. 
He  had  been  taken  with  a  violent  fever,  and  so  rapid 
and  alarming  was  its  progress,  that  we  were  fearful  that 
his  speedy  dissolution  was  about  to  ensue ;  no  words  can 
convey  an  adequate  idea  of  our  unutterable  grief  and 
dismay,  when  we  first  realized  this  appalling  and  threat- 
ening prospect.  It  was  as  if  the  sun  of  our  happiness 
was  rapidly  sinking  beneath  a  dark  and  tempestuous 
horizon,  and  as  if  the  stream  of  life  was  being  changed 
into  a  vast  and  stormy  sea,  a  boundless  ocean  ;  without 
a  single  star  to  illumine  its  eternal  and  night-like  gloom  ! 
Thus  does  the  severance  of  a  single  tender  tie,  of  true 
love  or  disinterested  friendship,  darken  for  a  time  all 
the  bright  realities  of  life,  and  cast  its  lone  spectre 
like  a  shadow  far  away  into  the  dim  regions  of  the 
future ! 


PARA.  2G9 

It  was  decided  by  the  officer  in  command,  to  remove 
the  Captain  irninediatoly  back  to  the  city,  where  he  could 
have  the  most  skilful  medical  attendance.  The  hour  for 
sailing  was  appointed,  and  everything  put  in  readiness 
for  our  departure ;  a  few  hours  before  this  took  place,  as 
I  was  walking  in  the  court-yard  of  our  dwelling,  I  heard 
the  sound  of  a  gentle  voice,  pronouncing  my  name  with 
flute-like  melody  :  turning  my  eyes  thither,  whom  should 
I  see  but  Victurena  herself,  standing  in  a  graceful  attitude 
in  the  midst  of  a  bed  of  flowers,  and  holding  a  solitary 
rose  in  her  hand.  "  Senhor,"  said  she  sweetly,  "  take 
this  rose  and  remember  me."  Need  I  say  that  I  accepted 
ber  fragrant  tribute,  and  that  our  lips  met,  while  I  was 
■whispering  to  her  my  last  adieu ! 

It  Wixs  near  sunset  wlien  I  embarked ;  the  military 
guards  had  assembled  (as  was  their  daily  custom)  upon 
the  broad  "Largo"  before  the  village,  and  were  chanting 
in  melodious  unison,  their  evening  hymn  to  the  Virgin 
Mary.  At  eight  o'clock  the  "  Thetis  "  left  her  moorings 
in  the  bay  and  proceeded  onwards  towards  the  city. 
The  surface  of  the  water  was  as  tranquil  as  if  asleep,  and 
as  we  noiselessly  sailed  over  it,  a  host  of  wavelets, 
sparkling  with  phosphorescent  fireworks,  glittered  in  our 
wake,  and  the  great  river,  as  it  undulated  in  the 
moonlight,  seemed  like  a  sea  of  molten  gold !  The 
magnificence  of  the  starry  firmament,  the  grandeur  of  the 
forest,  the  solemn  hush  of  nature,  and  the  events  that 


2V0  PAEA. 

had  occurred,  were  all  calculated  to  fill  our  minds  with 

grand  and  solemn  emotions. 

%  *  *  % 

The  day  for  our  departure  from  Brazil  having  at  length 

arrived,  we  chartered  half  a  dozen  negroes  to  transport 

our  luggage  to  the  wharf.     It  consisted  of  a  miscellaneous 

assortment  of  trunks,  chests,  boxes,  cages,  baskets  of  fruit, 

and  a  number  of  Indian  curiosities,  besides  many  living 

birds  and  animals.     The  negroes  are  exceedingly  afraid 

of  snakes,  and  do  not  like  to  meddle  with  them,  whether 

large  or  small.     One  of  the  men  whom  we  had  hired, 

however,  unconsciously  seized   the  cask    in  which    our 

boa  constrictor  was  confined,  and  having  placed  it  on  bis 

head,  he  began   to  march  with   it  down   towards  the 

beach.    While  he  was  moving  on,  the  imprisoned  snake 

suddenly  commenced  hissing  in  so  vociferous  a  manner, 

that  the  frightened  black  dropped  his  burden  instantly, 

declaring  that  the  devil  was  in  the  cask. 

*  •*  *  * 

It  was  with  deep  and  sincere  emotion,  that  we  finally 
took  leave  of  all  the  kind  friends  upon  whose  generous 
hospitality  we  had  for  so  many  months  relied.  Our 
minds  were  overwhelmed  with  grief,  for  we  were  bidding 
an  everlasting  adieu  to  all  the  beautiful  haunts  where 
some  of  our  pleasantest  hours  of  life  had  been  spent  1 

A  fresh  and  strong  breeze  swelled  our  topsails  when 
we  weighed    anchor,  and  away  flew  our  vessel  like  a 


27] 


b:i\l  just  set  at  liberty  !  Long  before  the  sun  bad  declined, 
tha  gorgeous  scenery  of  Para,  with  its  forests  of  perennial 
verdure,  had  faded  for  ever  from  our  eyes,  while  the  vast 
and  glorious  Atlantic  rolled  in  awful  sublimity  before 
us! 


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